Think a D16a6 with rods and low compression pistons would handle 10 psi?

 

Probably, but I would get it sleeved. I think in time it will blow. Unless you're not planning on riding at 10 psi all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del Sizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably, but I would get it sleeved. I think in time it will blow. Unless you're not planning on riding at 10 psi all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it should be fine at that level but I would install a blockguard (cylinder girdle) if I were you to add piece of mind, plus it's a lot less expensive than sleeving.

 

Block guard isn't good for longevity.

 

I plan to daily drive it at around 6 psi maybe 7 or 8. But when I go out looking for someone or if I hit the track crank it to 10.

 

How many miles on your block?

 

225,000

 

Are you serious?

 

if I were you I would get rid of that pig and use teh money you were going to use to turdbo and buy a LS swap or for a couple hundred more get a B16 swap

it is not worth the return in my opinion to turbo a D-series

 

I agree, but I'm looking for a little more fun/driveability with minimal investment right now. I plan to build a Silvia or hot rod in the future.

 

well like I said before....the best bang for your buck is a LS swap

you can put together a LS swap for under 1k

 

I considered it a while back, but I didn't want to put more weight into the front as I also run it as a Solo II car.

 

I was under the impression that the weakness of the D block was the rods not the sleeves. Apparently a common swap is LS (B18B) rods for D rods though I haven't actually researched it. I'm going CTR swap myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I considered it a while back, but I didn't want to put more weight into the front as I also run it as a Solo II car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what afraid of another 100lbs (at most) that will heavily be outweighed by the torque and HP over a D-series

 

I'm striving for better weight distribution, meaning moving as much as I can to the back/elminating it in the front. To put a bigger motor in would be counter productive, all I'm looking for is maybe 200 hp and as much torque as I can muster. So I figure a small turbo would be a good bet while keeping my fuel economy where it is. Just trying to figure out how much boost i'm gonna have to run to make that number.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del Sizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Block guard isn't good for longevity. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A block guard is perfectly fine for longevity as long as the boost levels are kept within a reasonable range and the tuning is decent. I don't care what setup you're running... if you're cracking the stock cylinder sleeves, there is something seriously wrong with the way the engine was put together and/or tuned (street motor with some strip).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was under the impression that the weakness of the D block was the rods not the sleeves. Apparently a common swap is LS (B18B) rods for D rods though I haven't actually researched it. I'm going CTR swap myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct that rods are the weak link in a D series block. Sleeving a block IS ideal, but it is also a lot more costly and is often overkill in your average street/strip setup. Unless a person is running a lot of boost and/or is involved in a lot of racing, sleeving is not required to build a reliable engine.

 

what he said ^^^

 

I don't have, or want to spend the cash to sleeve the block since I don't plan to push it all that far. I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions, but I just need to know if rods/pistons will be enough for it to handle 10psi/200hp whichever comes first or am I going to need to block post/put in a block guard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm striving for better weight distribution, meaning moving as much as I can to the back/elminating it in the front. To put a bigger motor in would be counter productive, all I'm looking for is maybe 200 hp and as much torque as I can muster. So I figure a small turbo would be a good bet while keeping my fuel economy where it is. Just trying to figure out how much boost i'm gonna have to run to make that number.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'd probably be able to hit that number running somewhere around 8 psi i would think. Your biggest problem is that high mileage motor you have...I doubt the rings would deal very well with boost pressure. You'll have to consider rebuilding the motor with a slight overbore or swap out to another D series with less mileage.

 

Actually when I put the low compression pistons in I'll have to replace the rings. My rings in it now are totally shot, and I go through about a quart of oil a week (depending on how low I keep my revs or how spirited my driving is). So rings are a definite must and I have planned on those.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually when I put the low compression pistons in I'll have to replace the rings. My rings in it now are totally shot, and I go through about a quart of oil a week (depending on how low I keep my revs or how spirited my driving is). So rings are a definite must and I have planned on those.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't worry about dropping your compression to much, especially if you're only going to run 10 or less psi. I'd probably try to run a piston that is very close to the stock comp ratio for best performance. So just remember to buy oversize pistons and rings and have your block bored out and it'll be just like a new motor again. Certainly with aftermarket rods and pistons and block done with 8-10 psi of boost, you'll reach your goal no problem. Just make sure you have the car tuned on a dyno to prevent all that good money you spent from going out the window. Reliability is important and tuning in a boosted car is everything.