i was on my way to my cousins house when i turned a corner. there was a puddle of water right after the corner and didnt see it until i notice there were smoke behind me. as soon as i realize that, my car died. right there and then, i knew it was because of my tenzo CAI.

i quickly popped my hood and disconnected it. i then used my sweater to stuff it inside the pipe that was left connecting to the throttle body. i was hoping this will dry the rest of the water that was in there. there were about 10 quarter size water drops in the pipe.

i then went to start my engine. the engine will not start. after about 5 minutes. i was able to start it but it felt like it was about to die any second. put a little gas on it, and it started up.

i then finished my trip to my cousins house. let the car cool down for a while. after 5 hours, i decided to drive it around the block. idle at 1100-1500 when i drove it without warming it up. then i drove it again and it idle at 900-1000. i then got on the highway and decided to test it out. it ran solid like before.

are there anything i need to worry about? there was no clicking noise whatsoever.

 

You may have a bent rod and not know it. You should compression test your car.

 

okay i would try to do that. what is a good compression?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tig3rxiong &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay i would try to do that. what is a good compression?</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on the engine. but mostly if the numbers are consistant within each cylinders its ok.

 

you should had remove your plugs and crank the engine until you dont see any condensation and water coming out from the plug holes.. also change your oil.. just to make sure you drain all the water w/ the oil... do this ASAP or you will risk rusting your internals...

 

okay i will change it tomorrow. thanks everybody!

 

I'm not positive that you need to do all that for it, if it is still running.
Remember that taking out the plugs and turning the engine over will spit a bunch of fuel, at least. I think that letting it run at idle, when its hot should get all that extra water that is in the pipes and cylinder walls out, just let it run for like 10+ minutes at idle, then i would let it sit.
An oil change would be a great idea if you got that much water in the engine. If you find water in the old oil, that might be a sign of a water leak thru the head gasket or cylinder wall and not from the intake, which would really suck. Check the color of the water you get in the oil, if any, and do a compression test (very helpful). Also, keep watching the exhaust for smoke/vapor that is a good sign something is wrong, and do not run it hard, fast, or to red line until you at least change that oil! --durrrr

Or you will soon be rebuilding your motor

 

Let me guess? It happened in the downpour a few days ago.
I've got an idea...how 'bout you take that POS CAI off so you don't have to worry about it happening again? It's ******* beyond me why people risk their motors for no more than 3 hp. If you really want the CAI at least go with the Comptech Icebox so you don't run the risk of hydrolocking your motor. Dumbass!

 

so wait i gonna know, can you only hydrolock wen putting your foot on the throttle or can it happen even wen crusiing through it? its raining a lot in my area lately

 

i think if the puddle is kind of deep, it can happen also. i hydrolock when i was pressing on the throttle. correct me if im wrong.

 

if you hydrolocked your engine it will not be running at all......
so just to be safe change oil
add the aem bypass valve..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hutchenc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me guess? It happened in the downpour a few days ago.
I've got an idea...how 'bout you take that POS CAI off so you don't have to worry about it happening again? It's ******* beyond me why people risk their motors for no more than 3 hp. If you really want the CAI at least go with the Comptech Icebox so you don't run the risk of hydrolocking your motor. Dumbass! </TD></TR></TABLE>

first of all, i hate dumbass people like you who think you know everything, you can still hydrolock with the comptech icebox, people like you think that you can't hydrolock your car with the comptech icbox go around driving all crazy in the rain end up hydrolocking your motor and end up rebuilding your motor. SO SHUT THE **** UP AND STOP BEING SUCH A (QUOTE) "DUNBASS"!!!

 

amen.

 

Okay...I'll stop being a "DUNBASS"!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hutchenc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay...I'll stop being a "DUNBASS"!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i vote for BAN! dont need "dumbass" noobs like this one

hydrolocked motors are no fun and a real hassel, give the thread starter a break man

 

agree

 

I hydrolocked this summer, thought everything was ok, replaced main and rod bearings and thought i was good to go....ran great for a little while, although it never seemed as fast as it was. [i couldnt tell, i was driving my moms v8 thunderbird during the repair ...

anyhow, **** slowly got worse, car ran worse, and I just up and sold it, got me a new car


anyhow, make sure everythings fine, do a compression test to make sure your rods are ok, and dont get bent out of shape when people tell you to ditch the CAI. I wish I had, or at least spend the 40 bucks on the bypass valve.

sounds like you got out ok though [when i did it, it was during ridiculous flash flooding, i was just trying to get home safely before i ended up stranded], and stranded I ended up, my brothers mountaineer almost died coming to get me as well...oh well

but yea, ditch the CAI, or get a the bypass valve at the least...you're hearing this from someone who's been through it..not a jackass newb..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you hydrolocked your engine it will not be running at all......
so just to be safe change oil
add the aem bypass valve..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the point of getting an AEM bypass valve? You lose 2-3 hp by putting it on, and that puts you right where you'd be with a short ram intake. Besides that, the AEM bypass valves have been said to have caused a lot of problems when they detiorate; not to mention you'd have to pretty much submerge your cai for it to do anything.

 

i hydrolocked pretty bad about a year ago. someway or another the plastic fender liner flew busted out when i hit a puddle and my filter for my aem cold air was right there. I pulled the plugs and turned it over and shot alot of water out but it was to much. It happened in the winter time and i ended up trying to restart it after i pulled the plugs and i ended up busting a whole about the size of my fist in the back of my block where my rod shot through. Luckinly my cousin owns a tow company and we towed it to the shop and i put all my stock intake stuff back on and warranty replaced the engine with a completly rebuilt one, but like evryone else says, i dont see the need for a Cold air when a warm air is just as efficient and you dont have to worry all the time

 

you have to pretty much submerge the CAI to hydrolock your engine as well...my car ran in about 8 inches of water for over 30 miles before the road dipped a bit and turned my intake into a straw...water is much heavier than air...takes total submerging to truly hydrolock it. If you have a bunch of water and a little pocket for air..your still only gonna pull in air, but you'll have the most restrictive intake ever, which is where most people feel the 'choking' when they have one in madd rain. once you get water in the cylinder your fucked.