I have a B16A 1st gen motor with a set of GSR cams in it, Sc61, 750cc, standalone, JG intake, EM fuel rail, SX 1to 1 reg, Tial wastegate, cltch master stage3 clutch, Walbro 255, etc etc. I put my slicks on my teg last night to test her on the street to make sure all is good before I went to the track today. Sure enough the oil pump gear snapped in a million pieces. The motor was not knocking when i was giving it because I saw the oil light come on when I got in the garage. What are you guys using for oil pump gears? I don't want this **** to happen again. What are my options? I pulled the oil pan and saw some shavings in there and decided to pull one rod cap to see my bearings. It was fine so I pulled out the chiltons manual and torque it back up to 30ft. I have another stock pump that I am going to be putting back in it tonight when I get home, but I am not going to keep it in there provided I didn't hurt the bottomend when it was idling for about 2 sec with the oil light flicking on and off.
Please give me your opinions and testimonies.

 

ttt

 

I looked into this when I built up my bottom end. I found that most people use stock Honda oil pumps. The reason behind your oil pump gear shattering is mostly likely harmonics due to an imbalanced rotational assembly, not slicks.

Your axles, tranny, and clutch have to front the abuse from slicks before it gets to your oil pump.

 

I hear you. But this setup has been in the car all summer long. I must have raced well over 25 people since then (on radials) plus the abuse I give her on a daily bases and no issues. But as soon as I put on the slicks and launch it I have problems. Tonight I will put her back together and see what happens.

 

What crank pulley are you running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What crank pulley are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

$10 bucks says its a UR crank pulley.

 

ILL BET 10 YOUR RITE

 

I was running a light weight aluminum crank pulley, probably REACTIVE. At anyrate I put Humpty Dumpty back together again last night and fired her up with a near new stock crank pulley and all is good. No noises or loss of oil pressure. Gave her 2 oil changes last night to remove any debree that might still be in there. Should I leave the stock oil pump gear in there? or change to a Prodrive or something else? I was very lucky this time, just want to make the proper adjustments while I have time to do so. Any thoughts?????

 

you can't run a solid hub pulley with good power. I shattered two pumps. I installed toda racing billet pump gears and also an ATI super damper pulley. never had a problem since.

the pump gears will run you about $275 and the pulley about $450 or so. it's a quick 700 bucks but it will prevent problems in the future.

 

i seen 3 motors shatter oil pumps(including mine) and they all had the solid aluminum race pullys on them. i went with a prodrive oil pump gear and a stock pully but a ton of people have alot of luck with the type R oil pump gears.

 

I shattered my Prodrive gear with a CTR crank pulley. Since I have gone to a stock ITR pump and a Fluidampr crank pulley everything is great. I got the pulley from Arturbo.

Jason

 

Sounds like i gotta put the bug in wifeys ear for XMas. As of now I am done with beating this car until I get my other built LS/Vtec motor back in it. Just can't afford the headaches right now, its just not in the budget to do another re and re.