Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC?
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Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC?
Welll........ here i go again. Im gonna resort to h-t for some much needed advice and help.
The other night i pulled off the highway onto the road my house was on and i noticed my rear drivers side brake squealer going nuts. Sad part is i JUST changed the brake pads no more than 1k miles ago. I automatically thought it was the caliper so i ordered a new one yesterday and installed it today. I rebled the one side ( i was an idiot and didnt know you have to do all four ). Pedal was spongy and brakes were sub par at best. I also noticed the e-brake wasnt working correctly at all on the same side as the caliper that went bad. Is there an adjustment on the e-brake cable that runs to the caliper?
I went to rebleed all four and broke a wheel stud on the front! By this time im already out of patients so i bled that side and slapped the wheel back on. Took it for a slow drive and pedal was a lil better but no where near where it should be. So now im thinking is it the mastercylinder? Slider bolts maybe? Im going to see if my old caliper will decompress and go from there.
To recap:
Is there and adjustment for the ebrake cable?
Maybe the slider bolts need to be replaced?
Sound like a MC problem?
-----------------------------------
Any help would be great!
The other night i pulled off the highway onto the road my house was on and i noticed my rear drivers side brake squealer going nuts. Sad part is i JUST changed the brake pads no more than 1k miles ago. I automatically thought it was the caliper so i ordered a new one yesterday and installed it today. I rebled the one side ( i was an idiot and didnt know you have to do all four ). Pedal was spongy and brakes were sub par at best. I also noticed the e-brake wasnt working correctly at all on the same side as the caliper that went bad. Is there an adjustment on the e-brake cable that runs to the caliper?
I went to rebleed all four and broke a wheel stud on the front! By this time im already out of patients so i bled that side and slapped the wheel back on. Took it for a slow drive and pedal was a lil better but no where near where it should be. So now im thinking is it the mastercylinder? Slider bolts maybe? Im going to see if my old caliper will decompress and go from there.
To recap:
Is there and adjustment for the ebrake cable?
Maybe the slider bolts need to be replaced?
Sound like a MC problem?
-----------------------------------
Any help would be great!
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (slooogsr)
This is a problem when bleeding GSRs with ABS....
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (NightRider-gsR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a problem when bleeding GSRs with ABS....
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea it was the front....... the sealed bearing has to be yanked? hmmm.....
The thing is when im sitting at idle the brake pedal feels normal........ i dunno i may just take it to a real mechanic........
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea it was the front....... the sealed bearing has to be yanked? hmmm.....
The thing is when im sitting at idle the brake pedal feels normal........ i dunno i may just take it to a real mechanic........
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (slooogsr)
Try looking in the service manual, 
. Its a x-bleed procedure, IIRC you start with rr, lf, lr and rf. The speed bleeders will make it a snap, open each caliper bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and pump a couple times yourself then close it up. Be sure to check that the master cylinder level doesn't get low or you have to start over.
The ebrake is adjusted via removing the center console and adjusting the tension nut. Be sure to check to see if the rear cable hasn't come loose at the caliper.... and don't forget to get that little nub on the back of the brake pad to recess into that x groove on the caliper piston too, or your pads will wear uneven real quick.
Rear calipers on tegs are know to freeze up, sucks.
I am not sure if the extra heat of cross-drilled rotors help the matter much 
Remember me?
. Its a x-bleed procedure, IIRC you start with rr, lf, lr and rf. The speed bleeders will make it a snap, open each caliper bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and pump a couple times yourself then close it up. Be sure to check that the master cylinder level doesn't get low or you have to start over. The ebrake is adjusted via removing the center console and adjusting the tension nut. Be sure to check to see if the rear cable hasn't come loose at the caliper.... and don't forget to get that little nub on the back of the brake pad to recess into that x groove on the caliper piston too, or your pads will wear uneven real quick.
Rear calipers on tegs are know to freeze up, sucks.
I am not sure if the extra heat of cross-drilled rotors help the matter much Remember me?
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (NightRider-gsR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a problem when bleeding GSRs with ABS....
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Older Integras had a separate ABS reservoir. The procedure for bleeding the calipers and lines themselves is the same for ABS or non-ABS for 94-97 years. When they changed the ABS system in 98, it used the regular brake MC for its fluid, so I don't know if the procedure is any different for those.
The above listed order is correct: RR, LF, LR, RF
It's not the same for cars without ABS. I forget, but there's an extra step you have to do.
What you can also do is bleed the MC itself. It will help.
As for the broken stud, which one broke, rear or front? Rears are easy to replace... for the front, you're gonna need some presses to press the hubbearings out to access the studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Older Integras had a separate ABS reservoir. The procedure for bleeding the calipers and lines themselves is the same for ABS or non-ABS for 94-97 years. When they changed the ABS system in 98, it used the regular brake MC for its fluid, so I don't know if the procedure is any different for those.
The above listed order is correct: RR, LF, LR, RF
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Older Integras had a separate ABS reservoir. The procedure for bleeding the calipers and lines themselves is the same for ABS or non-ABS for 94-97 years. When they changed the ABS system in 98, it used the regular brake MC for its fluid, so I don't know if the procedure is any different for those.
The above listed order is correct: RR, LF, LR, RF</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should bleed mine again then. Before I bled mine, the pedal sank to the floor on hot days... but the brake still worked. If you keep your foot on it, it will just sink. So I bled mine. Results were a little better but at times it would still sink in.
Ill bleed it much more thoroughly next time then.
Older Integras had a separate ABS reservoir. The procedure for bleeding the calipers and lines themselves is the same for ABS or non-ABS for 94-97 years. When they changed the ABS system in 98, it used the regular brake MC for its fluid, so I don't know if the procedure is any different for those.
The above listed order is correct: RR, LF, LR, RF</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should bleed mine again then. Before I bled mine, the pedal sank to the floor on hot days... but the brake still worked. If you keep your foot on it, it will just sink. So I bled mine. Results were a little better but at times it would still sink in.
Ill bleed it much more thoroughly next time then.
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (NightRider-gsR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... the pedal sank to the floor on hot days... but the brake still worked. If you keep your foot on it, it will just sink. So I bled mine. Results were a little better but at times it would still sink in.</TD></TR></TABLE>That sounds like a bad master cylinder. When mine went, bleeding wasn't a permanent fix.
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (stegs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stegs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try looking in the service manual, . Its a x-bleed procedure, IIRC you start with rr, lf, lr and rf. The speed bleeders will make it a snap, open each caliper bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and pump a couple times yourself then close it up. Be sure to check that the master cylinder level doesn't get low or you have to start over.
The ebrake is adjusted via removing the center console and adjusting the tension nut. Be sure to check to see if the rear cable hasn't come loose at the caliper.... and don't forget to get that little nub on the back of the brake pad to recess into that x groove on the caliper piston too, or your pads will wear uneven real quick.
Rear calipers on tegs are know to freeze up, sucks. I am not sure if the extra heat of cross-drilled rotors help the matter much
Remember me?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good seein you on man! Hows the kraut car doin?
I rebled the brakes and they are much better. I popped out that shop manual and read up on the bleeding procedure ( that thing is priceless! ). The new caliper is working fine except for the e-brake. Now adjusting the nut under the center console will adjust both sides correct? Or will it draw slack from the loose side? I have talked to a few mechanics who said they have recieved defective calipers where the ebrake portion did not work properly but the normal braking did. I am going to re-order another one and follow procedure more closely in the shop manual.
Stegs- What specs did you normally adjust the valves to? I think im due for an adjustment......... Thanx for the help guys........
. Its a x-bleed procedure, IIRC you start with rr, lf, lr and rf. The speed bleeders will make it a snap, open each caliper bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and pump a couple times yourself then close it up. Be sure to check that the master cylinder level doesn't get low or you have to start over. The ebrake is adjusted via removing the center console and adjusting the tension nut. Be sure to check to see if the rear cable hasn't come loose at the caliper.... and don't forget to get that little nub on the back of the brake pad to recess into that x groove on the caliper piston too, or your pads will wear uneven real quick.
Rear calipers on tegs are know to freeze up, sucks.
I am not sure if the extra heat of cross-drilled rotors help the matter much Remember me?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good seein you on man! Hows the kraut car doin?
I rebled the brakes and they are much better. I popped out that shop manual and read up on the bleeding procedure ( that thing is priceless! ). The new caliper is working fine except for the e-brake. Now adjusting the nut under the center console will adjust both sides correct? Or will it draw slack from the loose side? I have talked to a few mechanics who said they have recieved defective calipers where the ebrake portion did not work properly but the normal braking did. I am going to re-order another one and follow procedure more closely in the shop manual.
Stegs- What specs did you normally adjust the valves to? I think im due for an adjustment......... Thanx for the help guys........
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Re: Need some brake assistance, seized caliper? slider bolts? MC? (slooogsr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slooogsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good seein you on man! Hows the kraut car doin?
-----good and fast, aka keeping me in trouble
Do miss the teg sometimes 
I rebled the brakes and they are much better. I popped out that shop manual and read up on the bleeding procedure ( that thing is priceless! ). The new caliper is working fine except for the e-brake.
------I hope you bought a honda remanned one, the aftermarket remans usually don't cut it, or don't last long. I am amazed, I replaced 2 calipers on the rear of that car already with oem honda rem, heck you should know, you have the receipts, and yes they were pricey I remember.
I had one stick before an event, and well I had to disconnect the emergency brake cable on that side since everytime you engage it stuck, (something in the caliper mechanism.)
Now adjusting the nut under the center console will adjust both sides correct?
-----Yes I believe it will, I think its easy to see once you remove the rear center console.
Or will it draw slack from the loose side?
-----not sure, but makes sense
I have talked to a few mechanics who said they have recieved defective calipers where the ebrake portion did not work properly but the normal braking did. I am going to re-order another one and follow procedure more closely in the shop manual.
------like I said, consider honda remanned...
Stegs- What specs did you normally adjust the valves to?,
-------stock in the manual, maybe a little on the tighter side of the range, but not any tighter than that.
It takes a special feel to it, you shouldn't need to replace the valve cover gasket its rubber, just put some RTV at the corners where the cover meets the cam seal as outlined in the manual. You might want to get a valve tapet tool, it makes it easier, but after awhile you can get the feel of it. You'll see if you don't and tighten the retainer without holding the adjuster, it will bump outta spec again as you torque it. Moral of the story, don't forget to check spec after you torque the retainer too....
I think im due for an adjustment......... Thanx for the help guys........
I checked them every 15K, and they required minimal adjustment if any.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good seein you on man! Hows the kraut car doin?
-----good and fast, aka keeping me in trouble
Do miss the teg sometimes I rebled the brakes and they are much better. I popped out that shop manual and read up on the bleeding procedure ( that thing is priceless! ). The new caliper is working fine except for the e-brake.
------I hope you bought a honda remanned one, the aftermarket remans usually don't cut it, or don't last long. I am amazed, I replaced 2 calipers on the rear of that car already with oem honda rem, heck you should know, you have the receipts, and yes they were pricey I remember.
I had one stick before an event, and well I had to disconnect the emergency brake cable on that side since everytime you engage it stuck, (something in the caliper mechanism.)
Now adjusting the nut under the center console will adjust both sides correct?
-----Yes I believe it will, I think its easy to see once you remove the rear center console.
Or will it draw slack from the loose side?
-----not sure, but makes sense
I have talked to a few mechanics who said they have recieved defective calipers where the ebrake portion did not work properly but the normal braking did. I am going to re-order another one and follow procedure more closely in the shop manual.
------like I said, consider honda remanned...
Stegs- What specs did you normally adjust the valves to?,
-------stock in the manual, maybe a little on the tighter side of the range, but not any tighter than that.
It takes a special feel to it, you shouldn't need to replace the valve cover gasket its rubber, just put some RTV at the corners where the cover meets the cam seal as outlined in the manual. You might want to get a valve tapet tool, it makes it easier, but after awhile you can get the feel of it. You'll see if you don't and tighten the retainer without holding the adjuster, it will bump outta spec again as you torque it. Moral of the story, don't forget to check spec after you torque the retainer too....
I think im due for an adjustment......... Thanx for the help guys........
I checked them every 15K, and they required minimal adjustment if any.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Cool thanx for the help. We got it fixed and installed another reman, rebled the brakes and all i had to do was adjust the cable a bit. Brakes are a wonderful thing.....
I really should have looked into an oem caliper but i could not resist the 30% employee appreciation day my work was having. I got a lifetime A1 cardone reman for about 60 bucks with a lifetime warranty. Ill keep an eye on how long it lasts though. Would you recommend swapping back to oem rotors?
BTW: Are you participating in any events with your M3? I hear atco is having one later this month i may go and give it a shot.......
Ohhh, thanx for notching out the spindle for me
. Gave me just enough room to grind off part of the stud like was done previously. Tore up the threads a lil bit but nothing a tap didnt take care of.
I really should have looked into an oem caliper but i could not resist the 30% employee appreciation day my work was having. I got a lifetime A1 cardone reman for about 60 bucks with a lifetime warranty. Ill keep an eye on how long it lasts though. Would you recommend swapping back to oem rotors?
BTW: Are you participating in any events with your M3? I hear atco is having one later this month i may go and give it a shot.......
Ohhh, thanx for notching out the spindle for me
. Gave me just enough room to grind off part of the stud like was done previously. Tore up the threads a lil bit but nothing a tap didnt take care of.
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Re: (slooogsr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slooogsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I got a lifetime A1 cardone reman for about 60 bucks with a lifetime warranty.
-------cardone's are good, actually those are the axles I used to replace the front ones in your teg. I am about to put a cardone loaded caliper in my fiance's ride too....
Ill keep an eye on how long it lasts though. Would you recommend swapping back to oem rotors?
-------possibly, that't the only thing I can figure why that car seems to be eating rear calipers. I put 2, you've added the 3rd. Cross-drilled may apparently run hotter, and heck I don't know maybe that causes more corrosion or something, or is harder on the seals.
BTW: Are you participating in any events with your M3?
-------not yet, but I am itching, probably in a couple weeks,
I hear atco is having one later this month i may go and give it a shot.......
-------autox, or straight line? Are you going?
Ohhh, thanx for notching out the spindle for me . Gave me just enough room to grind off part of the stud like was done previously. Tore up the threads a lil bit but nothing a tap didnt take care of. </TD></TR></TABLE>
-----You noticed that, I broke a stud before too, actually one of the volks came loose and snapped it You're lucky to get one squeezed in there, I had to pull the hub and replace the bearing in the process a major PITA.
-------cardone's are good, actually those are the axles I used to replace the front ones in your teg. I am about to put a cardone loaded caliper in my fiance's ride too....
Ill keep an eye on how long it lasts though. Would you recommend swapping back to oem rotors?
-------possibly, that't the only thing I can figure why that car seems to be eating rear calipers. I put 2, you've added the 3rd. Cross-drilled may apparently run hotter, and heck I don't know maybe that causes more corrosion or something, or is harder on the seals.
BTW: Are you participating in any events with your M3?
-------not yet, but I am itching, probably in a couple weeks,
I hear atco is having one later this month i may go and give it a shot.......
-------autox, or straight line? Are you going?
Ohhh, thanx for notching out the spindle for me
. Gave me just enough room to grind off part of the stud like was done previously. Tore up the threads a lil bit but nothing a tap didnt take care of. </TD></TR></TABLE>-----You noticed that, I broke a stud before too, actually one of the volks came loose and snapped it
You're lucky to get one squeezed in there, I had to pull the hub and replace the bearing in the process a major PITA.
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Re: (stegs)
<thread jack > for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there
> for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there
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Re: (JoizeeAutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoizeeAutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><thread jack > for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I might know that one....
> for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there </TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah I might know that one....
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Re: (stegs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stegs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah I might know that one....</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stegs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-----You noticed that, I broke a stud before too, actually one of the volks came loose and snapped it You're lucky to get one squeezed in there, I had to pull the hub and replace the bearing in the process a major PITA.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well we squeezed one in there, with a ball pein and a punch. tore up some of the threads but i was amazed how the tap straightened them right up.......... it would be impossible to do it that way with extended lugs!
Yeah I might know that one....</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stegs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-----You noticed that, I broke a stud before too, actually one of the volks came loose and snapped it You're lucky to get one squeezed in there, I had to pull the hub and replace the bearing in the process a major PITA.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well we squeezed one in there, with a ball pein and a punch. tore up some of the threads but i was amazed how the tap straightened them right up.......... it would be impossible to do it that way with extended lugs!
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Re: (JoizeeAutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoizeeAutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><thread jack > for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes i saw that, i may participate in the acto event later on this month. We will see......
> for your autox inquiries, (in case you didn't already know) check on http://www.autox4u.com click on south NJ for atco and north NJ for englishtown (which is supposed to have more events than atco before year's end). hope to see you guys there </TD></TR></TABLE>Yes i saw that, i may participate in the acto event later on this month. We will see......
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