Major starting problems
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Needs to be About 20% Cooler
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
i have a problem with my starting.
i turn the key to crank and the starter just clicks. i tun the key off and back to crank sevral times each trying to crank but just clicking and after 7 or 8 times the starter cranks fine and starts the engine normaly.
if i hook up my control wire of the starter to the + on the battery with the ignition on, it will start right up.
i repalced the starter today at school (lower bolt was a major pain in the ***
) and buypassed the ignition swich (that's right i hot-wired my own car
) and i still have this problem
i turn the key to crank and the starter just clicks. i tun the key off and back to crank sevral times each trying to crank but just clicking and after 7 or 8 times the starter cranks fine and starts the engine normaly.
if i hook up my control wire of the starter to the + on the battery with the ignition on, it will start right up.
i repalced the starter today at school (lower bolt was a major pain in the ***
) and buypassed the ignition swich (that's right i hot-wired my own car
) and i still have this problem
Thread Starter
Needs to be About 20% Cooler
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 1
From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
it's still the stock wires
should i replace the wires with some custom ones?
also should i replace the + only or the ground ones too?
should i replace the wires with some custom ones?
also should i replace the + only or the ground ones too?
maybe the contacts on the starter. my friend in hawaii called me had the same problem different car ended up changing ht ebaterry and it was all good. pull the battery go to kragen tell them to check it out. and clean the terminal as redline said.
i had this problem. it was the electric part of my ignition.(the part behind the key) the way i found out(you can use it to check yours) is when you turn the key to the on position, and hear the click, but nothing happens, back off from turning the key all the way,move it a little foward, if it starts, its that part. the polls inside the ignition go bad, and that was my problem.
good luck!
Dwight
good luck!
Dwight
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I'm thinking it has to do with the wiring or the battery. My old d15 did this as well as my b18c.
Maybe i'm just telling myself its the battery so I have an excuse to buy one and relocate it.
Maybe i'm just telling myself its the battery so I have an excuse to buy one and relocate it.
i used 1 0/T from the battery to a distribution block, then from there 4 gauge to the starter and the fuse box. just make sure to put yourself a inline fuse no further than 18 inches (if i remember right) from the battery. negative was the same size as my positive cable from the battery.
Thread Starter
Needs to be About 20% Cooler
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,878
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From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
ok I redid my battery wires. here's the info:
4 gauge from - battery to chassy and from chassy to tranny
6 gauge from + batterty to starter
10 gauge from + battery to fusebox
i did all this and checked my ignition swich (cleaned it but was ok) and checked my shift position swich (also cleaned but was ok too)
so all are good componits
what do i do now?
4 gauge from - battery to chassy and from chassy to tranny
6 gauge from + batterty to starter
10 gauge from + battery to fusebox
i did all this and checked my ignition swich (cleaned it but was ok) and checked my shift position swich (also cleaned but was ok too)
so all are good componits
what do i do now?
So if you take 12volts from the battery and hook it directly to the starter solenoid it starts? It that what you call the control wire?
If that's what you are doing then trace that wire back to the igntion switch and do an OHM test on it. Make sure the wire is in good shape. Maybe some spare wire to the solenoid to the pin on the igntion switch to test and make sure the stock wire itself isn't the culprit.
If all else fails, sell me the car for $5 and never have to worry about this ever again!
If that's what you are doing then trace that wire back to the igntion switch and do an OHM test on it. Make sure the wire is in good shape. Maybe some spare wire to the solenoid to the pin on the igntion switch to test and make sure the stock wire itself isn't the culprit.
If all else fails, sell me the car for $5 and never have to worry about this ever again!
Thread Starter
Needs to be About 20% Cooler
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,878
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From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
Yes the little BLK/WHT wire on the starter solonoid is the "control wire" i looked and has battery voltage when cranking and .5 volts not. when the ignition is on and i hook a wire from that termanal and touch it to + on batterty it starts right up. no clicking whatsoever
The wire from the ignition swich to the starter read just under 1 ohm. is that normal?
why would i sell ya my little baby
my pride and need a wash joy
i will sell wa the car for 10 grand but it;s not worth that so never mind.
The wire from the ignition swich to the starter read just under 1 ohm. is that normal?
why would i sell ya my little baby
my pride and need a wash joy
i will sell wa the car for 10 grand but it;s not worth that so never mind.
when you turn the key to the crank position, the black white wire under the dash should read 12 volts
if it doesnt, then your ignitions swtich is bad.
if it does then the power just isnt getting to the starter, or you have a bad ground to the starter.
if it doesnt, then your ignitions swtich is bad.
if it does then the power just isnt getting to the starter, or you have a bad ground to the starter.
Thread Starter
Needs to be About 20% Cooler
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 1
From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
i know i have power going to the starter b/c it clicks and i re-did the grounds with costom wiring read above posts
if your car is an 89+ check the clutch switch.
try disonnecting it and jumping the termins inside the plug ( the wire end of the plug). if it stops clicking all the time then thats the problem.
try disonnecting it and jumping the termins inside the plug ( the wire end of the plug). if it stops clicking all the time then thats the problem.
Thread Starter
Needs to be About 20% Cooler
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,878
Likes: 1
From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
well i have tried evreything i can think of.
replaced battery NO
cleened ing. swich NO
cleened shift swich NO
cleened and tightened all coneters NO
replaced starter NO
replaced battery wires and engine / tranny grounds NO
checked evrey foot of wire accesssable NO
did other testing crap like volt drop test and amp test NO
i am at a total loss i dont know what to do
this is my daliy driver and i need it to go to work and school.
PLZ HELP ME
replaced battery NO
cleened ing. swich NO
cleened shift swich NO
cleened and tightened all coneters NO
replaced starter NO
replaced battery wires and engine / tranny grounds NO
checked evrey foot of wire accesssable NO
did other testing crap like volt drop test and amp test NO
i am at a total loss i dont know what to do
this is my daliy driver and i need it to go to work and school.
PLZ HELP ME
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