Transmission Problmes, hitting clutch numerous times to get into gears!
Well today I got my SRI and installed it. Afterwards when I was driving home I found it impossible to get into 2nd, I had to hit the clutch about 3 times and even when I did get it in it felt like something was obstructing it. Same goes for when I'm going from 3rd to 4th, half way shifiting it just stays a little at the end of 3rd and refuses to budge till I hit the clutch a couple more times. Anyone have any ideas what this could be?
Check your clutch fluid resevoir before anything else. If the fluid is very low, that's what is most likely causing you problems. Make sure the level is between the min/max on the side of the resevoir. If the fluid is fine you may have a much more serious problem.
PS The installation of the SRI should have nothing to do with this problem unless you accidentally damaged/unplugged something while installing it.
PS The installation of the SRI should have nothing to do with this problem unless you accidentally damaged/unplugged something while installing it.
The clutch fluid is good I check that out immediately yesterday. Is there any practical way for me to check the clutch disk?
not that i know of..mine was hard getting into gears but thats what my problem was. u still have stock clutch? how many miles are on it?
Try bleeding the clutch? Just looking in the reservoir doesn't tell if you have air bubbles in the lines.
Here's something to check...
Open the rubber boot that covers the clutch throw-out lever (fork). You'll see the slave cylinder piston rod pushing against the lever. Have someone pump the clutch pedal for you, measure how far it moves. Mine moves about 12mm.
Then have someone pump the clutch pedal & hold it down. Watch that lever. See whether it slowly moves back towards the slave cylinder, while your friend holds the pedal down. If it moves like that, your clutch master cylinder is shot. That's a lot easier than taking off the tranny...
If the lever moves properly, & there's no fluid leaks anywhere, & the lever doesn't sink back towards the slave... THEN take off the tranny & look for something messed up in there.
Here's something to check...
Open the rubber boot that covers the clutch throw-out lever (fork). You'll see the slave cylinder piston rod pushing against the lever. Have someone pump the clutch pedal for you, measure how far it moves. Mine moves about 12mm.
Then have someone pump the clutch pedal & hold it down. Watch that lever. See whether it slowly moves back towards the slave cylinder, while your friend holds the pedal down. If it moves like that, your clutch master cylinder is shot. That's a lot easier than taking off the tranny...
If the lever moves properly, & there's no fluid leaks anywhere, & the lever doesn't sink back towards the slave... THEN take off the tranny & look for something messed up in there.
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Check your clutch master cylinder. My roomate just had his go out.
Just look down by the clutch pedal for fluid, easy tell tale sign...
-Junior-
Just look down by the clutch pedal for fluid, easy tell tale sign...
-Junior-
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I agree, one time just randomly I took 2nd all the way to redline. Immediately after it was very hard to shift into any gear. I was still on stock clutch w/ about 135K on it at the time, and after pulling the tranny off I found pieces of the clutch disc around the springs had broken off.
Oh and the other day I noticed that I had NO fluid in my clutch reservoir (after driving 1 hour to work), but the car still shifted the same. Apparently I still had fluid in the system, although I did notice more freeplay at the top of the pedal travel. If the master or slave is completely shot, I think he wouldn't be able to shift period (clutch would not disengage at all).
The problem most likely is the clutch itself and nothing hydraulic related.
Oh and the other day I noticed that I had NO fluid in my clutch reservoir (after driving 1 hour to work), but the car still shifted the same. Apparently I still had fluid in the system, although I did notice more freeplay at the top of the pedal travel. If the master or slave is completely shot, I think he wouldn't be able to shift period (clutch would not disengage at all).
The problem most likely is the clutch itself and nothing hydraulic related.
If your disc is old, its more likely the disk. My disc had 120K on it, when I pulled it off. I found that one of my springs had actually come out, and was hitting the bolts on the flywheel making it hard to engage.
Yea I have a new exedy stage 1 kit ready to be put in soon. Hopefully things would get better after this. I was going through the service recrods of this car and he only changed the pressure plate and never changed the clutch. I'm at 140K right now.
How did the clutch look when you took it out? I know mine was completely gone, the previous owner had beaten the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2ndgentegracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did the clutch look when you took it out? I know mine was completely gone, the previous owner had beaten the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dunno yet didn't take it out, I'll be sure to (try) snap some pics of when I do though.
Dunno yet didn't take it out, I'll be sure to (try) snap some pics of when I do though.
Most clutch disc's don't last as much as 140k, unless you shift perfect and you drive from boston to la for work everyday...
My clutch feels fine in my 2000 LS and ive got 74,000 on the odo. I dont know who had the car before me but they must have driven very good becuase the clutch feels very strong, it engages and bites well. I drove my friends EP3 and his clutch feels more worn than mine and he only has like 15,000 miles
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