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Hey there! I recently bought a 93 Honda Del Sol Si 1.6L VTEC. Car sat with previous owner for 2 years. He says it only needed new battery and brakes were rusted. He jump started it and I picked up my dream car! I knew that gas had to be bad that I ran through it during my drive home. List of things I immediately replaced:
New Battery
Drained fuel
New fuel filter
Then! Car had trouble starting after putting some new gas in it. I drove it around the neighborhood and it wasn't accelerating properly. Parked the car and hasn't started since! Then I decided to replace:
Fuel Pump
and Main Relay
Still NO START but Cranking! checked fuel line to filter and no gas coming through lines.
I then started trouble shooting everything! Checked ALL fuses. They're good. Voltage at pump is normal. New main relay clicks once when turning key to on position, grounds good throughout the car and checked G101 on thermostat housing as well. There is spark! Checked ignition cylinder and switch. It's good.
Next I used a paperclip in the 2P at ECU to get trouble codes off solid check engine light. I got a reading of ZERO. No flashes at all. Is my ECU bad? Can I take ECU to mechanic to run diagnostics? ANY ideas of something I'm missing or need to check???
I have a P28 A51 computer. Please help me out! Want to drive my car!
To verify that the check engine light works, put the key in the ignition turn it to on (ll). Does the check engine light turn on then off?
So before you even jump the pin, the check engine light is solidly on? That does point to a bad ecu, swap it out with a friends or another p28.
Seems you did do a good amount of trouble shooting, I would give the car a compression test, to verify that you even have the compression to start the car. When you first drove the car was it low on power, jumpy, or hard to start?
Also what I’d do is find somebody or a friend that’s car is running and has a d16z6. Test their distributor in your car. And check to see if the timing belt snapped.
When I put the key to the on position (II) check engine light comes on and stays on as well as the battery and oil indicators. No codes
The car ran great the whole way home. Unfortunately, I wasn't present when the previous car owner started the car. He had the car running when I first arrived because he says he had to jump start it/ bad battery. It was jumpy the next morning I started the car at home.
How can I do a compression test? and how can I check my distributor? Any pics would be great too
You can go rent a compression tester from your local auto parts store. There’s a wet and a dry test, it should come with instructions. If not YouTube it, and if youre iffy on how to do it, pm me I’ll give you step by step directions.
Just find another matching distributor, they are expensive. This is why I say it’s best to borrow one, then if you put that one in and it runs you know what the problem was.
How did you verify that the car was receiving spark?
When you turn the key on and don't crank and the check engine light comes on and stays on (and the test jumper is not in place, i.e. normal operation) means the ECU did not boot up. This can be the main relay or the ECU itself or the ECU ground wires on the thermostat.
Sometimes if you leave the key on for several minutes the CEL will eventually go out and the car can be started. This is likely the capacitors in the ECU. Everyone with one of the 1992-1995 models should resolder their main relay and recapacitor the ECU.
By the way the P28-A5x is for auto transmission so hopefully it matches what you have.
If you do test compression it is very important to unplug the low voltage harness wires from the distributor first. The coil is prone to blow if you crank or run with the distributor powered up but the spark wire(s) disconnected. Remove all the spark plugs and hold the gas pedal on the floor while testing for an accurate result.
It could have been converted to manual. The OBD1s can do that by moving jumpers inside. But I thought there were no automatic SI's, so it's definitely not the one that came with the car.
It could have been converted to manual. The OBD1s can do that by moving jumpers inside. But I thought there were no automatic SI's, so it's definitely not the one that came with the car.
With del sols their are automatic Si’s. Because they’re d16z6, and not highest trim. That is the VTEC model with the B16 which is only offered manual. So, there’s S, Si, VTEC. He mentioned that it was a 1.6l VTEC so maybe that’s what got you lol but it’s a single.
I had my friend test the spark plugs with screwdriver method. He actually got shocked lol So there is spark. Does this rule out the distributor being bad? Do you think I should do a light test on the injectors? I definitely do not think I'm getting compression for whatever reason, hence no fuel to the line. I will look into doing a compression test. Do you think the wire harness at the fuel pump could be faulty if it has an abnormal appearance? It is crammed full of goop. Is that normal? and the other wiring at fuel pump connector is kinked? would that cause any problems with starting?
mk378: Check engine illuminates as soon as you turn key to on position without starting. How do you recapacitor the ECU?
Just tried this to check ECU. It was good reading.
Unplug the MAP sensor connector, turn the key to ON(II), and measure voltage to body ground at terminals for the Yel/Red wire and Wht wire individually in the connector (see diagram). Do you measure 5V?
one will be a 5v reference voltage which means it will be there constant, one is a ground ant the 3rd is the signal wire. See a schematic to see which is which. You already know which wire has the 5v reference, the signal wire goes to the ecu. I want to say that the middle grn/wht is signal and the wht ground and yel/red the 5v reference but see a schematic to be sure.
Looks to be my Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad, but nobody can find the part! I even called the dealer. Any suggestions here? Is it called something else?
Crank position sensor is one of the three sensors found INSIDE the distributor. You would have a code if the sensor was problematic. Did you happen to do any engine cleaning before you cranked it and had trouble starting ???
04-22-2018, 10:05 AM
Cranks, no start. Help!?
Re: Cranks, no start. Help!?
