O-mar

So hello all , I am new here and am about to start my new thread, I was planning to buy a Corolla and do a budget build but it turns out that it's not that cheap and I couldn't find a better solution, so I have found two cars a 2004 civic and a 98 civic, I am gonna get the 04 one as it needs less restoration work and parts are widespread.

Now what I need your help with is the fact that I wanted to run a forced induction setup, it'll be a first for me on a Honda, and I wanted to be sure of what to do and what to get, knock offs are common so☺️, anyways I am a little different than most people I want a daily .... But I also want to be able to keep up with a stock 10 gen turbo civic, I am looking for a decent setup that give me around 190odd at the front wheels, and for the most part I almost have no experience with Honda , it's a d16y8 and is bone stock,
What I have in mind is:
1)Beefier brake pads, some thing off of an old Accord maybe?
2)better flowing intake from a z6
3)a Garret (not sure which one as I'll probably run really low boost)
4)a different ECU?
5) stock exhaust(can't stand the fake that's on it and even an aftermarket one is not my cup of tea)
6) probably injectors for the turbo?
7) not sure between forged pistons or sleeves
8) a super stealthy intercooler (haven't found one)
9) and do I need a forged custom crank?
10)a new fuel pump?
11)maybe I'll port , if I get postive feedback for it.
Hopefully I'll be able to hit 100km/h's in ~7 seconds? I also want advice/suggestions on lines with a question mark, and a rundown of things that I might need for the setup on top of what I mentioned, 3000 USD is round about what I'm looking to spend

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

The 2004 does not have a D16Y8. Depending on what model of Civic it is, it could have one of a couple D17 drivetrains or possibly a CNG setup.

1. You can't swap pads from a different chassis, without changing out at least the calipers.
2. On a turbo platform, not a huge issue compared to running a properly sized throttle body for the boost application.
3. You'll want to look at the pre-existing Turbo thread in the FAQ's.
4. K-Pro will be your only realistic option. And they're about $800 - $1000. You'll also want a cam and adjustable cam gear to go with it.
5. Terrible idea for a boosted application.
6. Yup, you'll need injectors.
7. If you want 190whp, you'll need pistons, head studs, and probably would want an improved valvetrain and connecting rods for reliability. Sleeves could be desired at that point as well.
8. Function > Form on this one. Getting one that does the job properly, would yield better performance.
9. For 190whp, no you won't.
10. Yup, you'll need an upgraded fuel setup.
11. Porting can provide minor improvements for a boosted application due to the volume of air you can get into the combustion chamber.

For $3000 usd... you're not going to touch 190whp reliably, nor will you have any cash leftover for any other supporting modifications (brakes, suspension, etc...)
A K-series swap would be a FAR better use of the money. Especially if you have a way to get a salvaged RSX or EP3 (Civic hatchback) and the technical ability to do the swap work yourself and sell off any remaining parts you don't use.

O-mar

finnaly, so my bad (the motor) it's a w something 2 stage vtec, the thing is i cant get a k series engine for anything under a 1000 usd, my car is in the subcontinent , and we have plenty of relatively newer engines there for very cheap, like a friend recently got a d17a2 for around 470usd and that includes installation, so realistically even if i go for a swap its gonna be a d16b,d16z6,a d15b 3 stage or non 3 stage depends, and the cheapest i can get is the r18 since it is super common but i wouldnt want that for a daily driver, because of poor reliability in our humid and hot climate, i can get an r18 with uncut wiring and harness plus tranny (probably auto though) for around 370-440 usd, my min concern is : my friend says you cant boost any vtec motor without messing up vtec, i will gleefully take 165hp odd out of a reliable setup then 210 from an unreliable one, and are the brakes super necessary? and most d series won't need new mounting locations right? i primarily want a faster then 10 gen turbo civic daily, i had 3850usd's but spent around 850 on exterior, new fender, respray interior needed lots of work so..

O-mar

1)also will bigger callipers and pads be any help? and will they work without a hack?
and i'll leave out porting then.
2)all i can get is a toyota motor 2zzge for 750usd but that would be like putting jam on a pizza so no good, otherwise it has decent stock specs but will need lots of labor so...
3)will i still need suspension upgrades for 160-165whp , because i hate suspension work and i suck at it, and labor isnt too cheap when you are already on a tight budget,.ill install struts and braces but as the oem or aftermarket can be expensive(not sure never looked it up) will custom fabrication work for struts and braces?
4)also will not dropping the height be a bad idea? (because bad roads and tonnes of bumps)
5)and isn't there any alternative like a silent aftermarket exhaust ? i was even looking to avoid a b.o.v, it gets annoying on a daily, and i am all out for stealth
6)by the way i saw this really old oil cooled turbo it's too stupid right?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

No documentation is out there for doing any of these swaps, because D16's and D15's are not legal swaps in the USA (too old) and have entirely different electrical systems.

This is your car. I can't decide what is "necessary" for you.

Again, I cannot speak to all that is necessary for an older D-series swap, as no one has really documented ever doing it.

To be honest, this platform is not the best starting point for a low-cost performer. And this is coming from someone who is exceptionally fond of his own 2001 EM2.


Help how? In stopping power? Yes. Can you get away with running a good performance pad, stainless flex lines, and good brake fluid? Absolutely. I do not know how to answer your vague question accurately.

The chassis shares a lot with the EP3 and DC5... so aftermarket parts costs are relatively reasonable. That being said, your budget will not allow for any suspension modifications if you're looking for that specific power goal. So the point is completely moot.

I do not know what the road conditions are where you live, but I can easily drive wherever I want on public streets with my slight drop. But, to be fair, my car is setup for primarily track use... so I wouldn't consider my car too low by comparison to others.

Sure, its called using a proper resonator and muffler setup.

I don't see what the question is here.

All in all, it looks like you have a ton of research to do. I'd suggest starting with the FAQ's thread here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...sting-2101211/

O-mar

Thank you so much for the help, as far as legality is considered I have no issues here, any swap is possible,meanwhile the roads are ****, and I've decided that I'll just throw in a 3 stage VTEC d16 or d15, in it and just make do with the stock performance, again thank you so much

O-mar

Your encouraging words have made me think twice on forced induction on a d series vtec motor, so I've decided to ditch it, I'll sell it probably and go for an ae101 and drop a stock 2zz get in, and thank you again for all the time consideration and kindness you have shown, I would have wasted 3000 and gotten nowhere without you help,
Cheers
May you see happiness in your life,
Regards,