TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Good call..

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Fan is set to 185f and the fan is a off brand supposed to pull 1700cfm

boosted94gsr

Get a spal fan. That "off brand" fan probably doesn't pull anywhere near 1700cfm.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't find the one Shodan recommended but I found a 12 in 1300cfm for $65-80 and another 12 in that pulls 1700 but it's $200 ******* dollars haha. Do I need a $200 dollar fan for 320 horsepower? What's everyone running? I also have a fluidyne radiator and that's why I don't wanna buy the koyo at moment and then it will still have to be clocked and I'll be st square one haha hence the SF unit. Thanks for input

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. You do need a $200 fan for 300whp, or your going to have a new engine for 4-figures or whatever money you've invested into this project. The last thing you or anyone wants is for you to come back later with overheating issues, or other problems asking, "what went wrong? How do I solve this?".

Please remember. REGARDLESS OF HORSEPOWER, the car will only function as well as it's weakest link. And believe me, that engine, and tune will find that weak link and exploit it. This is an investment not just about "budget"

Instead of "YOLO", think "BOCO" (Buy Once, Cry Once)

And my apologies. The part number you're looking for to match with that Radiator 1570 is SPAL 30102044
Easily found here:
https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30102044.../dp/B009OBOSMC




See? All the work is done.. Now, quick "monkeying around" and get this thing done, so you can have some FUN already!

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Shodan just trying to save for that Silver Surfer! Haha. Ordered the fan and it'll be here Friday. Maybe if a track is open around here I'll hit up and see what this pain in my *** will do.

LightningTeg

SPAL fan was one of the best purchases I've made. Blows every other slim fan out of the water.

2kdrift

definitely SPAL is the only way to go.........you ordered a puller fan, I just dont see how that will fit your engine bay in its current configuration. I was gonna recommend a pusher you will definitely be moving things around, I dont see that intake pipe fitting with a puller fan

also you never replied about your fan settings in your EMS, they are more important than you may think. Your post said it wont overheat with the bumper off so thats what is making me think this is an AIR FLOW issue and not anything else

*needed to know max vehicle speed under your fan settings...this could be an issue

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'd always keep the fan settings low. (In fact, I typically don't touch them at all, and let the thermostat do the work. To hell with the computer.) Anything over 40mph-50mph, and you're bringing in more air than the fan can produce anyway/

2kdrift

not for me....if I turn my fan off based on speed my car overheats, theirs just not enough air flow with my intercooler in the way. My intercooler is 8" tall and 3.5 inch thick, Civic bumpers have less air flow then integras do

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

We may need to agree to disagree on that one. Have had several EH3s and ED8,9swith even less room and the overheating typically came from the Radiator as the problem. Never went outside of a stock thermostat in many, many years. The intercooler only caused issues if it was a denser core like a Bell or a Garrett core. Not from Treadstone, Mishimoto, or the other companies.

An example, my old ED9:



Stock thermostat, 300whp of pure fun out of a JDM B16B, Spearco Intercooler, never reached over 198F*

I'd also look at the what else you're doing in the way of ignition timing, which can cause cylinder temperatures within the block to increase, causing coolant to reach boiling points sooner, and the link continues.
Again, I could be wrong, but something tells me about your setup, something else is up. I've never experienced that problem not only in my own, but many others I've encountered as well.

Come to think of it, I don't know of anyone on Hondata systems that ever had to touch the fan controls.... But I'm rather old, and don't know much about these things as I haven't touched Hondata since 2003...

2kdrift

MY car is an EK the bumper openning is 6" tall, which is completely taken up by my intercooler. I am not directly debating this but this has been my experience with my setup it does overheat when the fan is turned off. I dont do ignition settings as I am not a tuner, but had the same results from 2 different tuners.

The OP has stated no overheating issues with bumper off so it definetly sounds to be an airflow issue


Lightingteg uses these settings sighting the same lack of airflow with intercooler issue

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Oh , it's no debate to me . I would just question what's going on if I have to do that. I just don't consider what you're experiencing as normal at all. (Kinda like the whole "boost creep" phenomenon, yet many still deal with that on a regular basis, when I find it very odd)

Lightningteg has a USDM Integra front end with a MUCH larger and denser core, with no provisions by the license plate for better airflow. He's a completely different animal. In my 500whp USDM Integra, I didn't use "fan controls" there either, but I did have overheating issues on the JDM front end of the same car. Found it was the radiator itself, and not the intercooler. .

2kdrift

Good to know, I also deal with very high humidity in this area currently 85* and 50% humidity

anyways OEM does not turn off based on speed, and if my car cools down past 190 whether it by from the fan or natural airflow fan turns off so it works either way

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What IC core are you using? That makes a BIG difference in high humidity and lower barometric pressures.

2kdrift

its go autoworks branded "type R" core dimensions 22" x 8" x 3.5", took a look inside and the core looks to be the chinese type.

Was thinking about going with a smaller but more efficient garrett 400HP core which is 6" tall and would match my bumper openning, Pretty sure my intercooler gets heatsoaked on the bottom due to the inlet being at the bottom an and not much airflow in that area due to the bumper.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, you could, (And should..) depending upon the power level you're going for. I had one experience with an Interceptor R owner who had the 18 x 6 x 3 Garrett core making over 548whp on a B16 by the time it was heat soaking. (I think he was out of efficiency at about 500whp, but people like to push to the edge, ya know? .) He wound up grenading the engine due to too high of a cylinder temp from using the old intercooler.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

If I post ignitions tables would that help? Also I've had 3 different fans all set up push pull with same results so I think the fan will fit fine either way.

Onto coolant, 100 percent water with wetter?

Joe

2kdrift

50/50 premix honda blue with water wetter

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks 2k.

So, my cooling system will consist of-
Fluidyne radiator
Spal 1700 cfm fan
Samco hoses
50/50 mix with wetter

If this doesn't work I'm gonna look into the headgasket.

Could someone take a look at my ignition tables? From what I've read they should be smooth correct?

boosted94gsr

Post em up. If English tuned it you are probably good to go.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I'll up load them later. I'm in no way badmouthing them either just running out of cooling angles to solve this. They are still the most professional shop I've been to save for maybe do it dyno in cali.



Joe

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's no reason to load them up if you went to English. Our opinions would not carry any validity. This looks like a hardware issue, plain and simple.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Pulled the plugs today. Look to be a little on the lean side to me but I've never checked plugs on a turbo car.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

They don 't look that bad, actually.