I've been at this non stop everyday after work. I think the wife is jealous . Anyway yesterday I finished wiring the relay to the fuel pump. As well as added a kill switch. Tried to do the wiring for the new battery from the trunk, but my wire was too short. And don't really have a torch to solder 4 guage wire. So gonna have to buy another one. In the mean time today, I decided to try to drop the motor/tranny in on my own. What a PITA lol. I eventually got it. Then installed energy bushings, a new megan short shifter and new no name heavy shift ****. Threw the linkage on. Then I began connecting the harness and noticed the alternator plug wires are bridle and breaking out of the plug. The same happened with the starter signal wire. So I ordered a whole new plug. Lastly I started drawing up a very rough wiring diagram for all the new wires.

 

Upon further inspection this morning, I don't think attach a filter to the turbo inlet. It's very close to the chassis. If the inlet were 3" I'd be able to fab up an elbow. But as it seems it's too close and tall for that. How bad is it to run a screen?

 

Do not put a screen on the turbo.


wheres the pics so we can see what you mean. Theres always a way for makin a intake.

what i see from the pic is a 4in to 3in elbow reducer

 

I'll take close up pics with a tape measure when I get home. But it's mighty tight. I thought the same thing you did. Maybe a 4" to 3" coupler to a 3" curved pipe, then 3" filter. But even then I feel like it'll fit but the coupler will hit the chassis.

 

Point it downward. You want as much inlet turbulence to come in for as long as possible. Filters on top of compressor housings actually hurtresponsiveness. But screens will hurt the turbocharger itself. It doesn't take much to destroy something rotating at over 90,000rpms, even dust or sand.

 

this is what I have. I was thinking to add a reducer coupling 4" to 3" with a 45deg angle. Add short 3" piping, then attach filter there. Doing it downwards will be an issue because of the piping going from the turbo to the intercooler.

 

This is a dope thread. Planning on going LsVtec and turbo this is great keep it up man.

 

thanks! This is my second time building a b series motor, and first time doing a boosted one. This has been a great learning experience. I'm also glad I can contribute to HT. This site has been a great reference for all kinds of things related to Honda's for years. Want to do my part in keeping it going.

 

You can trim back that lip/sheetmetal behind the headlight and it won't adversely effect anything to gain more clearance. I would suggest using a 45 degree 4" coupler (trim the end connecting to the compressor outlet) and the compact 4" filter. The compact 4" filter is physically shorter than the 3" filter and only maybe 3/4" wider at the base. This is the filter we use in tighter spots (IE, ramhorn, 4" inlet turbos that will fit between the compressor outlet and frame rail w/ ease). I try to avoid necking down the compressor inlet on a MAP car when possible.

FWIW... below shows 3", 4", then compact 4".

 

 

Sunday morning update:

So yesterday I finished all the AN fuel lines in the bay. The location for the E85 sensor under the intake manifold worked out great. As well as finished attaching all sensors and fittings to the back of the block (Oil light sensor/Oil pressure guage w/ 1/8 NPT Tee). Moved on to start doing the wiring from the engine bay to the cabin. While doing this, I found alot of choppy wiring from whoever did the swap and corrected it (they used wires from an HID kit ). Drawing out a wiring diagram was the best thing Ive done so far. Made it very easy to route the wires.
Also took a few mins to roughly mock up the intercooler and piping. Looks like everything will fit nicely, except the piping from the turbo to the intercooler, Ill sort that out after the car is wired.

 

So I kept going at it. Im waiting for new M6x1.00 bolts I ordered from MacMaster Carr to replace alot of the corroded bolts in the bay.

Threw the axles on quickly. Then mocked up the downpipe, and the radiator. Downpipe, fits nicely. The radiator fan doesn't fit (stock fan). I know there are slim fans out there, but not sure how slim. Any recommendations are welcome.

Finished all connections at the ECU. still have to wire in a new battery cable from the trunk, as well as add a relay to the cigarrette lighter 12v to trigger power from the battery for all the new accessories.

I'm going to attempt to start the motor once I get the battery cable and get oil. Any recommendations for oil weight? considering this will be a street car with occasional track days. This is the one thing that a search couldmy help me with. Everyone tends to have a different answer. I'm using MTF for the tranny.

 

spal, zirgo, or derale fan. I high powered one. Along with a shroud.

id also recommend you definitely fire sleeve your wastegate lines. I thought the wastegate placement was gona be cocked more towards the core support. Those lines will melt so fast lol.

on my car i run dt40 oil, and klotz 75w 90 gear lube. However, i just purchased torco/synchrotech mtf to try out this year. Cant be any worst than that redline crap. Theyre offering a HT diacount if interested. Check the drag section. Second page maybe.


and... mite wana think about changing that scissor clamp on the radiator hose. Kinda looks like it ready to dig in and rip.

 

So I went out and measured this morning and there's actually 1 1/16" of clearance between the downpipe and radiator. I had an idea that id run into this. But didn't know how bad. The downpipe has plastic burned of the radiator fan from the previous owner.





Anyone run a H.O. slim fan in front of the radiator? Blowing air into the engine bay. I know on a regular setup this works ok.

after seeing how close it is, I figured I'd have to fire sleeve the lines, also that one fitting at the top of the wastegate is gonna have to be a brass fitting to avoid it from melting. I also plan on wrapping the downpipe to lower engine bay temps and keep everything else from melting lol.

those clamps have seen better days, I plan on replacing them all. Just didn't remove the hoses when I disassembled the car to keep myself from misplacing them.

 

You could run a fan as a pusher. Seems like typically route would have slightly higher ECTs due to actually blocking airflow. Someone could chime in better on that. Ive never ran a radiator that way. Or run a 13 or 14" fan no shroud. Wrapping the downpipe is a great ideal.

And i thought you were gona run push to connect fittings and hose. What brass fitting are talking about lol.

 

I am using push to connect fittings, but the part that the hose pushes into is plastic (I'm using a style similar to the one posted on page 3 of this thread). Therefore the fitting at the top of the wastegate should be all metal to prevent melting of any type.

 

A few options for you:

Use a 12" high flow/CFM pusher fan. Anything larger usually overlaps the radiator.

Use a shorter wastegate (Tial MVR) which gives the option of relocating that top air port to the side. You gain clearance 2 different ways there. (costs the most, but it is the simplest of solutions).

In one photo it looks like the downpipe would clear the top air fitting as is. Wrapping the downpipe is going to take a little more of that available space, but will be needed.

Wrap the downpipe either way. The radiant heat needs to be kept down.

 

that's exactly what I opted to do, get a HO pusher fan and mount in front. I was checking clearances of the wastegate top fitting and even if I heat wrap the DP it should clear the wastegate with no issues.

 

So ive been quite busy. Ive been wiring like crazy. And while i waited for the fan and the ethanol content guage, I decided to start the engine before i clean up all my wiring. I made my first attempt yesterday.

I recorded it and it makes me wanna cry lol. Basically i ran into 2 fuel leaks. 1 where my AN lines meet the stock return line. Then I forgot to plug in the return hose at the tank. I remember i left it off because the clamp looked like *** and planned on replacing it. But totally forgot to. So once i fixed the AN line, the fuel reached the back and spulled fuel alllll over my garage. FML . Once i cleaned it all up. Fuel was good, no more leaks. But now i didnt have any spark. I suspected the Hondata CPR kit. I double checked all my work last night. And couldnt figure out why. Went to bed, couldnt sleep over it. OMW to work today. It hit me. I wired the ylw and GRN wires to the distributor, not the harnes going to the distributor. So im gonna swap them out tonight. Should start.

 

Story of my life lol.

Glad you figured it out.

 

Its always like this when you try to take too much at once and then you keep at it. Sometimes its best to walk away and come back to it. It was something so stupid, and i let wire colors fool me.



I basically have the green and red going to the distributor, not to the plug that goes to the harness. So just have to move them

 

Update:

So i was able to figure out what i did wrong with the hondata cpr kit. I was correct about the wires being connected to the wring place at the distributor. I also added the transistor @q37 on my cpu in the incorrect orientation. I sorted those out. And since haven't been able to get it started. It sputters and puffs as if it wants to. I double checked my hondata settings (used a calibration similar to my setup). Just changed the injectors to 1000cc as well as the ID1000 dead times. I do have a 4bar map sensor, but currently have the stock one on the car to start it. I also double checked that my engine harness connectors are connected properly. I also added 1 gal of gas to the car since i spilled a bunch of gas before. I know the fuel pump is working. And i havent been able to verify my fuel pressure at the FP regulator or see that i have a good strong spark at the spark plugs since ive been doing this on my own.

Also i dont have coolant in the car since im still waiting on my slim fan. Im not trying to start it and keep it running. Just want to see that it starts so i can finish tucking my wiring neatly. Heres a video of what its doing.


my next thought is to re-check my timing. Although I remember triple checking it before I put everything together.
any thoughts?

BTW the tapping noise is the Mac solenoid, i havent done any of the lines yet obviously.

 

Have you pulled the spark plugs to see if your getting fuel. Do you have all three lights on, on the cpr box. You went thru hondatas cpr setup guide rite. Kinda sounds like your timing could be off. But if the timing was off, it would pop and misfire. Which thats not the case. Whatever map sensor you have on the car, make aure its selected which im sure you know that.

 

 

Alrite, did the engine run and start before. Im not questioning your craftmanship, just throwing ideals out since im not at the vehicle. I would try rechecking the pins and the oreintation for correctness. Also im pretty sure vatozone sells spark plug light indicators. I was thinkin since your by yourself. Maybe you could plug the indicator in the coil facing upwards. That way you should be able to see it thru the windshield.

tps scaling dialed in aswell. Depending on what your cranking fuel trims are, they most likely can be reduced to 50-55%. I had a starting issue years ago. That lead to cranking fuel trims. I personally would start with that, since your just setting up the id1000s