When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
thanks! I was on a roll until recently. I installed the new toda oil pump gear in the oil pump, installed oil pump, rear main seal with cap, windage tray, pickup. Then i realized that the old oil pan needs to plugged for the turbo oil return line. I didnt wanna mess with taking it to anyone. So I ordered a Moroso pan. While I'm waiting I thought let me install water pump.....Then boom.... The block has an old broken bolt inside one of the bolt holes for the water pump. I failed to notice this before when I bought the block, because it didn't have an water pump so I didn't bother to look. Sucks *****.
worst part about it, is that I tried to use a few different bolt extractors to pull it out and none of them worked. And the dumbest thing I did is hammer a small flathead in the hole I had drilled. I turned it, and boom the flathead tip snaps and stays in the hole lol.
now I'm looking at drilling out the entire bolt and tapping for a 1/4" screw, or just throwing one of the old pans on the block and taking it to a machine shop to professionally tap the hole.
if youre able to, take it to a machine shop. something similar happen to me when i snapped a bolt that holds the cam shafts on my p72 head.
Originally Posted by Chance EG
+1 for machine shop, just to end your headache there and avoid possibly damaging it more.
Yea after long thought in my commute home, I decided to just prep it to take to a machine shop. So today, I screwed in the old oil pan. I'll just carefully place it on the taco bed, and tie down/strap it. Machine shop is less than 1/2 Mile away. Won't be For a few days until I can take time off work to take it during their business hours. In the meantime. I'll work on the other odds and ends on the chassis, as well as paint the valve cover. Kteller exhaust arrives Thursday too.
So the machine shop fixed the threads to that water pump bolt last weekend. They did a great job.
While they had the block, I was buttoning up a few things. Cleaned and painted the tranny. Started stripping the 3 colors on the valve cover. Also decided to clean up the exhaust valves surface on the head. They had caked on carbon deposits. I used painters tape to cover the surface on the head and used a dremel with a small brass wire wheel. Not the best way, but it worked.
When I got the block back I continued to assemble it. As well as added a fresh coat of primer and high heat aluminum paint. Then realized I ordered the wrong cometic headgasket, I ordered a B20/LS....Not the lsvtec one. Should be receiving it shortly.
I'm don't want to paint the Head, too complicated. May just mock it up to see how it looks not painted. Next step is to slap the Head on, and assemble it and set timing. Then work on the intake/fuel/wiring.
looking good! glad you took it to the machine shop.
Thanks!
Yesterday, I started painting the alternator brackets, head and other misc, attachments. Then I installed the correct headgasket and seated the head. Torqued down the ARP studs. Began to install the cams (with new seals) and caps. Then the last of the 10mm bolts snapped on the first turn of the torque wrench at 8 ft lbs.
I think it was probably over tightened by the last person who torqued them down. and made the bolt weak. Good thing the I never tightened it down, so I was able to chase the threaded half out of the head with a small flat head.
So now im left waiting for a new oem bolt I ordered.
In the mean time, I decided to install the intake manifold, aem fuel rail and id1000s. Ran into a couple of snags here. The skunk2 intake manifold has a broken bolt inside the middle threads thats supposed to hold in the fuel rail. The previous owner ran the fuel rail like this. Im not sure how I feel about doing this. Also I purchased the id1000s second hand and after attempting to test fit them, I realized theyre too short, and that the previous owner didnt give me the top hats. So I ordered these as well. If im not mistaken....research told me I need the blue top hats to convert 48mm to 60mm with the 11mm top. Also im not 100% sure about all this, but I have the thick injector o rings that sit in the manifold. Am i supposed to use the fat orings on the bottom of the injector? or not use them and theyll slide in on the part of the injector thats marked with the brand and model# once I have the top hats installed?
Its been about nine years since order my id1000s. But im pretty sure b series used blue tops. And oem obd1 orings for mounting in the manifold were recommended from injector dynamics.
Its been about nine years since order my id1000s. But im pretty sure b series used blue tops. And oem obd1 orings for mounting in the manifold were recommended from injector dynamics.
Good blue top hats are what I ordered, and I already have the obd1 orings. Hopefully Im not doomed with any more broken bolts
So I was able to get another oem bolt for the cam cap. All torqued to spec. Finished my crappy valve cover paint job lol. Finished assembling most of the engine. the distributor block off I bought wasn't the right size one, I have an aftermarket distributor, just gonna use the stock cap for now. The injector top hats I ordered weren't the right ones. So I sourced a set from someone on a FB group. Waiting on that. Also missing some AN fittings to properly attach the turbo oil lines, also missing the long bolts for the top timing cover.
While I wait for all these things. I pulled the chassis back in the garage, started cleaning up surface rust on the subframe with a light sand, and used a black rustoluem rust paint, then added regular semi gloss. Not necessarily improving the look in the engine bay, but It'll prevent problems later on. Also started converting the fuel lines in the engine bay to AN lines. As well as start mocking the bosch044 and GM ethanol sensor.
While doing this I remembered that the vacuum fitting on the back of the intake manifold popped off too easy when I was pulling the motor. I was thinking of stuffing it back in with teflon tape. Any other suggestion is appreciated.
Depending on size of the oem fitting, the tap and fitting size could 1/8th, 1/4, or a 3/8th. Kinda hard to guesstimate from the pic. Likely a 1/8th or 1/4.
Depending on size of the oem fitting, the tap and fitting size could 1/8th, 1/4, or a 3/8th. Kinda hard to guesstimate from the pic. Likely a 1/8th or 1/4.
I didn't get a chance to get a tap. But I'll make sure to measure it when I get home. Started working on the oil return line yesterday. After alot of cuts I got it right.
Originally Posted by DumpdEJ6
Setup is looking good! I like the color matched driver's side mount, nice attention to detail.
thank you! Honestly I feel like I'm rushing it everything more than I should. Just wanna have the car working and running well for the upcoming race season.
Originally Posted by Autoworks
Which fittings do you need?
I'm mainly waiting on the fittings for the oil feed line. The ones I have look like crap. I ordered them already.
I finally received the blue top hats. They fit perfectly. I'm not crazy about how the injector sit in the o rings in the manifold. I'm using the thicker obd1 orings. They fit kinda snug. When I tightened down the fuel rail they looked better kind of. I guess I'll find out when it's running.
this is the fitting that goes to the stock breather box. I'm obviously not using it, I'm using a vented catch can. Cap it off? Or route it somewhere?
nice setup! if you have an oem dizzy laying around you going to want to switch that cam tooth from the aftermarket dizzy to the oem dizzy. if you need a pic of what im talking about ill post it up. i had an aftermarket dizzy on my motor and during a routine maintenance job i was doing i took it off and noticed that the tooth that goes in the intake cam from the dizzy was cracking. lucky i found it before it actually broke off causing carnage. the OEM dizzy tooth is just made with better material.
you can cap off that port in the back of the block. just find a fitting at autozone or whatever parts store.
thanks! It's pretty much done. Will soon have to start posting vids. Was trying to slap on flywheel/clutch/ pressure plate and tranny today, but had to have some fam time.
Originally Posted by justYncredible
nice setup! if you have an oem dizzy laying around you going to want to switch that cam tooth from the aftermarket dizzy to the oem dizzy. if you need a pic of what im talking about ill post it up. i had an aftermarket dizzy on my motor and during a routine maintenance job i was doing i took it off and noticed that the tooth that goes in the intake cam from the dizzy was cracking. lucky i found it before it actually broke off causing carnage. the OEM dizzy tooth is just made with better material.
you can cap off that port in the back of the block. just find a fitting at autozone or whatever parts store.
I've been wanting to swap out the dizzy in general. The aftermarket ones suck all around. But my funds are running tight now. Yet I'm so close to finishing. So it's one of those things I'm gonna hope for the best now, and swap out later once the car is running. I'll probably try to get an oem dizzy before I tune.
The Moroso bung finally lined up for somebody! God I wish i could get a drop like that....Topmount ftw.
Looking good bruh, It's sad what that salt does to stuff up there.
The Moroso bung finally lined up for somebody! God I wish i could get a drop like that....Topmount ftw.
Looking good bruh, It's sad what that salt does to stuff up there.
lmfao funny you say that, It took me a good 2 hrs to get it like that, had to go back and cut the hose 3 times.
and yea northeast and the salt sucks big time. Personally I'd be ok, if they didn't spread any on the roads lol, because taco ftw
Today I spent time tapping the vacuum line on the intake mani. Didn't wanna wait around for shipping so went to Lowe's got a tap and a few fittings to make it work. Also shaved the letters on my valve cover still looks like crap with my awful rattle can job. Just gonna use a spare valve cover I have, get bungs welded on and powdercoat it later on.
01-30-2018, 03:56 AM
Re: Jay2415's Turbo LSVTEC EG Coupe
Re: Jay2415's Turbo LSVTEC EG Coupe
