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I meant more along the lines of paint reducing the efficiency due to the thickness of the paint coating the fins. Not to derail the thread, but you're saying there's no efficiency loss from painting?
Painting with general rattle can, possibly, yes. The right coatings,, no... All depends upon what is applied and how one applies it onto the intercooler.
A quick update, I started cutting my bumper support to use it to mount the intercooler....but I had to cut so much it started warping and twisting until it just snapped at the sides that bolt it to the chassis. So i scrapped it and bought an 20g steel plate. made cut outs and bend it to shape some brackets. Then took my time to wrap the downpipe. after wrapping it and flaring up my carpal tunnel.....I realized I shouldve never wrapped it to get the dumptube routed into the DP. Now I dont feel like wrapping it again so open dumptube it is..
Yesterday I spent most of the day troubleshooting my clutch master cylinder. I tried to bleed the whole system. I recently replaced the hard line with a steel braided AN line. No matter what I did, I couldnt get fluid to flow through the line. I unpinned the master from the pedal, and the rod was super loose and wobbly, almost as if it werent attached to anything inside the master. I was finally able to get a drops of fluid to squirt from the top when I pressed the pedal down very hard. So to my suspicion the rod is messed up. gonna replace it today.
Afterwards I made a cut on a scrap pipe to finish routing the intercooler/turbo piping. Fit perfect. Today Ill cut the actual peice and add a bead on the pipe with my ghetto bead roller (crimping tool with the tip cut off) Idea came from youtube lol.
So everything is starting to come together. Almost done. I did the vacuum lines with fire sleeved sections, installed the catch can, added oil to the tranny, cut and fitted the dumptube. Im missing a pin that's on the way for the BOV clamp then All that's really left is finishing the feed lines to the catch can, adding coolant and firing it up. I'll finish the exhaust once it's running.
So today I think the car is ready to start and possibly even drive. Hopefully I don’t have issues with the tune my tuner sent me.
can anyone suggest a photo sharing site to post pics, I’ve hit the max on my hondatech gallery. Also I’ve tried a few different sites and none seem to have a proper link to each pic.
So today I think the car is ready to start and possibly even drive. Hopefully I don’t have issues with the tune my tuner sent me.
can anyone suggest a photo sharing site to post pics, I’ve hit the max on my hondatech gallery. Also I’ve tried a few different sites and none seem to have a proper link to each pic.
I really wish photobucket had never been so popular on the forums; I found it silly that no one on car forums used imgur, even though all the internet-nerds I know (including myself) use it exclusively. The photobucket purge was pretty disappointing for a lot of really cool build threads out there as well (among others).
So the car starts up, but doesn't stay on. I've held throttle everywhere from closed to 100% throttle and the car won't rev past 1k rpms. Until it eventually dies out. Fuel pressure from the pump is fine (I recorded my FP guage) and it reads at 50psi. I emailed my tuner about it, waiting on his response.
Aw man she's clean lookin though! I just read through this whole thread and you've done an incredible looking and thorough job! Kudos man. Keep it up! She's gonna be a beast!
Aw man she's clean lookin though! I just read through this whole thread and you've done an incredible looking and thorough job! Kudos man. Keep it up! She's gonna be a beast!
thanks! Im no expert but the effort to learn and practice is a recipe for success. Well sort of lol. Not there yet as per video posted above lol.
just to be sure the cause is not on my part, im going to check my spark plugs today, im running NGK BKR8EIX. Left them at 0.030. Also im going verify map and Tps plugs are good. Also not sure if my TPS could be the culprit of this, since the highest voltage reading I was able to get was 3.5V with full open throttle. Im going to try to keep the engine running for a bit to calibrate it to the ECU. Good thing is that for the few times I was able to keep the motor on, there were no leaks so far.
WAY too cold of a plug. That's a lot of the reason of slower start up right there. Go down to a heat range 7 plug, my friend. I haven't even used range 8 plugs on my 550whp setup. I only use 8s on Time Attack days. Way too cold for a street application.
WAY too cold of a plug. That's a lot of the reason of slower start up right there. Go down to a heat range 7 plug, my friend. I haven't even used range 8 plugs on my 550whp setup. I only use 8s on Time Attack days. Way too cold for a street application.
Noted. I'll pick up 7s on my way home, and ditch the 8s. Is the Gap ok at .030? or should I go higher?
Ngk box number 4644s. Unless you have something against run copperz.
my tuner keeps telling me to switch to iridiums, but idk...... coppers are pose to be a better heat conductor.
I have my cars tuned on coppers, and run on iridiums. Much cleaner burn on those. To me, from over the years, they last much longer and see worth the switch, but only after you're tuned completely. Don't worry, they don't change the tune itself.
I have my cars tuned on coppers, and run on iridiums. Much cleaner burn on those. To me, from over the years, they last much longer and see worth the switch, but only after you're tuned completely. Don't worry, they don't change the tune itself.
do they with stand fouling out better or worst. Typically i gota change my plugs every year this time. Seems like they like foul out cause of the cold weather on startup. So i do them yearly also.
do they with stand fouling out better or worst. Typically i gota change my plugs every year this time. Seems like they like foul out cause of the cold weather on startup. So i do them yearly also.
If they're doing that every year. check the tuning. Might need tip-in enrichment/idle changes. But I don't change my iridiums but every 2 years or so with hard use. Perhaps even more depending upon the season of use
So I swapped out to BKR7EIX plugs. And it started up way easier this time. Same issue occurred except this time I was able to keep the car on for a little over 1 minute and able to keep rpms at 2k for a very short time. During this time the car was smoking really bad, burning my eyes. I should've datalogged but forgot.
after this first attempt with the new plugs, I want able to start the car again. I checked the s300 and it was throwing 2 codes for IACV and fuel injectors. So I went and fixed the IACV plug and double checked that I connected the injector plugs to the correct injector. After this I gave it another try, and boom! A huge fireball comes out of the downpipe. After this, the car wouldn't didn't sound like it wanted to start at all, so I stopped attempting. I checked the spark plugs and the tips were covered in black wet fuel residue. Im Just gonna wait for my tuner to get back to me hopefully tomorrow
Pull 20% out of your overall fuel trim and try starting it again. It’s way way too rich, running it like that will wash the cylinders. It’s likely you’ll need to pull more fuel, but 20% would be a good place to start based on what you said.
Pull 20% out of your overall fuel trim and try starting it again. It’s way way too rich, running it like that will wash the cylinders. It’s likely you’ll need to pull more fuel, but 20% would be a good place to start based on what you said.
I tried this today. And didn't want to start at all. I then went down from 20 to 15 to 10 to 5. The less I pulled the more it wanted to start. The basemap my tuner sent me already had 10% cranking fuel timed and 5% tps. I left those that way. But yea nothing.
Originally Posted by MyAcc0rd
Nice quick work here! Sub'd
thanks! I need the motivation right now lol.
Originally Posted by 0c00l
Loving this thread man, Can't wait to see it completed on the street. Where'd you get the intercooler piping?
thanks! Hopefully its ready to go in the next couple of days. The intercooler piping I picked up 2nd hand from the person who sold me most of the turbo parts i have. He had it made for an EK. I didn't buy his turbo so I had to modify the hotside piping.
Still waiting on my tuner to respond to me about fixing the calibration. Meanwhile, today I received the KN air filter and turbo blanket from Go-Autoworks . So I bent and cut the lip behind the drivers side headlight. I can now fit a 45 deg coupling to the turbo inlet. Gonna pick up short piece of 4" PVC pipe to mate the air filter to the coupling. I also mounted up my KTeller 3" exhaust. Now I just need to have the 2nd resonator welded to a 3 bolt flange for the exhaust and a Vband flange for the downpipe, to join it all. I weld but don't have a welder. On the wall about buying one. The tip looks really nice, except that some idiot cut the cars bumper, any suggestions to patch it is appreciated.
03-18-2018, 08:49 AM
Re: Jay2415's Turbo LSVTEC EG Coupe
. So I bent and cut the lip behind the drivers side headlight. I can now fit a 45 deg coupling to the turbo inlet. Gonna pick up short piece of 4" PVC pipe to mate the air filter to the coupling. I also mounted up my KTeller 3" exhaust. Now I just need to have the 2nd resonator welded to a 3 bolt flange for the exhaust and a Vband flange for the downpipe, to join it all. I weld but don't have a welder. On the wall about buying one. The tip looks really nice, except that some idiot cut the cars bumper, any suggestions to patch it is appreciated. 
