Edit..bad post..was pissed.
.super discouraged...need support..help..sad..

 

Keep the faith brother! You are dealing with things I would not even know what to do. I just read, but never have anything useful to add...

 

Bro, vtec does not engage when the car is neutral.

 

Lack of updates is due to the car being under 2 feet of snow and it being -25°C outside!

Just ordered a Moates Demon from Xenocron (they're one of our suppliers) for my Christmas present (asked everyone for gift cards so I could)

considering ordering skunk2 or ge headstuds..jhp has a good price on the s2..I like the dog point idea...but I asked xenocron and they don't carry them, they say arp/inline pro.. I can't imagine the s2 being bad, from what I've read (marketing material) they seem like they should be better than arp.

same with HG..everyone says oem..OK...comet cheapest..oem next..mugen and Toda rediculously expenaive..there's also the new GE pro seal ones which are apparently a new design and not just a machined oem one like the other GE ones..

I don't want to spend a ton on something I can't really reuse. As it is, I'm pissed the new one I have had the coating come off so quick ..

I'm torn between

1. Ghettoseal - I home resurfaced the head (sandpaper/glass trick with glass and other flat head) and cleaned up block .. could a. Scrape the rest of the coating off and spray with copper spray b. Don't scrape the rest off and spray with copper spray c. Take apart the old head gasket (didn't look blown) and use 1 or 2 layers (costing seems OK, actually looks OK overall for a used one but feels like it has dirt/grit in the layers so I'd want to clean it) with or without copper spray..likely with..

or 2..I order (at minimum) new valve seals and headgasket, put the valves from the second head into the first one which has been decked (but has valves that are so caked they're almost worthless), lap the valves in and put that on.

2 is probably better BUT either way the block isn't getting decked at this time..makes me want to save the clean/decked cyl head for the other block I'm building (or the sleeved one I'm trying to buy)

bam

bam
bam

I'm excited for the demon...didn't buy Neptune at this point, I'm going to try it out with eCtune first..may still buy Neptune...will probably also tune the sedan now because it won't take much..burning chips to change **** was BIG FKN PITA..now I can tune and burn a chip when done..demon won't live in sedan..might not even live in hatch..depends how much I make use of the extra features the hw provides but may just use it to tune and burn a chip when finalized..then ill have the demon ready for when I need to do other people's tunes and I don't have to worry about it getting stolen..shrug..again depends on features..I plan on using lots of features though..like the extra data logging inputs..

the one thing I think (don't quote I'll have to double check) Hondata does but not demon was serial input on board for data logging my plx wideband (and other sensors) digitally..that would allows me to get the digital feed into tunerview .. I can data log it digitally with eCtune but requires me to use a second serial port on the laptop for it..

I could use my raspi to mux the serial logs together and output them in a better format, like, something obd2 compatible...this goes along the lines of my obd2 port plans..

BTW I started wiring the obd2 port into the hatch..

has 12v, gnd, signal gnd. I'll be using vendor specific pins for: tx/rx from ecu, tx/rx from plx box maybe, tx/rx from arduino/pi maybe..etc..

Lots is undecided. I need a ****** garage dammit.

I want my demon here..now...oh wait I don't have an engine built to tune..crap..lol..

I think I might ghetto seal it with what I have, more out of curiosity and experimentation..I'm still gonna get studs either way, they're needed..just can't decide arp vs s2 style​​

​​​​

 

I is now a proud DEMON2 owner..I didn't buy Neptune..yet..will try with ectune first..!

also stopped at my suppliers warehouse the other day and they had a set of old school, mint, brand-new tail lights set aside for me.they're for an eg..from a quick look, I think they're coupe/sedan ones..I was hoping they were hatch ones but they're better shape (brand new!) than the junkyard ones on the sedan..hatch still has stocks..

also got a set of old school JDM PIAA h4 bulbs..they seem decent.. $75 for them..old wholesale price was 90..so who knows what retail was, probably 130-180.

I may sell the tail lights I got for the sedan..I haven't decided..they're brand new..a little scuffed from sitting in the warehouse for 20 years but I don't think it's anything irreparable...3/4 of have brand new gaskets and most of the new hardware is there but again they been in there he warehouse for a a ages

pics of all soon

 

*sings, to cha cha cha* demon demon dem-on! Demon demon de-mon! Im a fkn demon! Cha cha cha

 

still negotiating with the guy for the sleeved b17 block..waiting for a shipping quote..dart says their blocks are about 65lbs bare I'm assuming the Honda ones are close..I've Googled and I can't find the bare block weight.

last two pics are my head after my glass ghetto resurfacing..after I found my glass wasn't too flat I used my flat head...why didn't I just put the good valves in my decked head? Would have to at least lap them (which I can do) and get valve seals..but if I order valve seals suddenly there's skunk2 LMA's, skunk2 head studs and a new head gasket in my cart..!?

Haha..wanna try and ghettoseal what I got first ..

 

nice build so far. just went through the whole thread and you put in alot of work. props.

 

Picked up a Tanabe Sustec strut tower bar b/c it's actually a tensioning one (like my current one is, but seems a lot arent), the price was right and it was BNIB never installed. Installed that tonight and put the old bar on the sedan. Was also trying to grab a pwjdm tow hook but haven't had a chance to meet the guy yet. also got tejima anodized aluminum extended lugnuts a bit ago. Not sure how much I like aluminum for a lug nut but Damm there light.

had some nice weather last couple days but been feeling crap..hopefully will install the head tomorrow and fire 'er up again, this time I have the Demon working with my eCtune so I should have an MUCH easier time tuning. hopefully I won't have anymore ecu issues but I am considering ordering a spare from one of the places that sells refurbished chipped ecus. Never got around to replacing caps in this one and I kinda messed my soldering job a bit originally bc my iron was on its way out (butane powered, too much heat, adjustment valve not working well and tip worn, my bad)

got a proper battery charger too been trying to save both my batteries.

at this point the sedan battery will start the car daily..but I think if I hooked up the remote starter again that alone might be enough drain to kill it overnight..it was before..my charger is also kind of a tester so after a few cycles I should get a reasonable %age of usable life..

the one in the hatch was only replaced 9mo ago..unfortunately I left it not fully charged, outside for a bit..not sure how bad it is yet..it's boiling its acid now.

also, I originally had a 4-wire alt in my car.. (Canadian market, no ELD though) and the alt wasn't the greatest output-wise, I got a bunch of others with the engines and selected one that looked better..was a 3-wire though..checked the diagrams and thought I wired it right but..while it works...it doesn't put out more than 12.8ish volts..?! So either it's toast or wired wrong? Will have to double check the wiring I guess, I have 3 different alternator plugs wired into my harness LOL! At least I have options for spares.

I think I have obd0, obd1 and obd2 alternators kicking around.

Not sure if I mentioned but I also got an ASR subframe brace that'll go on when I finally do the 4x114.3 rear..which I plan to do pretty soon because I also want to put my new rear suspension on and don't want to pull things apart twice.

The suspension definitely will likely be temporary, I'm hoping the extra length in the rear evens things out but I think it'll def be too low for gravel. I could simply swap the springs..which I may do if I need clearance for some gravel practice but..I really think the car will have something like Hotbitz before it really stages.

new stickers too..Tanabe..exedy..moates..demon inside..PICKLE RICK...Domo-kun..two star wars stickers..should add like 50hp.

do stickers still add 5hp if you double them up? I still have a 2nd Tanabe and exedy.
​​​​

​​​​

 

New hg kit.. switched valves to decked head w/new seals. Installed seals before seats, doh. Had to remove seals. Installed cams before rear timing cover, had to remove cams.

then the big dummy thing I did, which I still can't believe

bolt it all up and start it up..well try..finally get it to run for like 30sec notice oil pressure is LOW? ****? I just filled the bitch with synthetic

look under hood
gushing from under VTEC

**** me
is my **** that warped??
no..i measured no warp on the block and head is decked new. Brand new headgasket which I..
oh..yknow...n00bed it in upside down! And I'm not a n00b! Lol

now have head removal down to 45min

 

Dude, take your time. If you were tired get some rest.

 

Yeah I wasn't even tired, I have this sort of dyslexic problem where sometimes I get messed up with flipping things upside down or backwards or missing words in a sentence or interpreting it completely different than whats written. I should have realized, I mean, I remember seeing the up facing down even but I also thought it would only fit one way for some reason too, haha. I wasn't rushing either that time, I was being really meticulous and clean which annoys me more because flipping it back was messy (oil had leaked out between the block and head, had to spend like an hour cleaning the head and block again)

And now..I feel like an idiot, again!

Last 3 weeks, haven't done much. Put the headgasket on up side down. Fixed that. But before that even, since my Demon2 arrived, I've been trying to get it to work. Didn't have much luck, put it down to soldering issues with my ecu as I was getting a solid GEL (one of the ECUs does have some potential soldering issues but I had repaired it and tested out all the pins so it should be good). I tried 3 separate ECUs which all have previously worked with chips. Ended up pulling out an old beat up p06 that may have actually been the one that stranded me on the road right before my windows were smashed out in the summer (because I left the car, because it died..swapped spare ecu and it was good, drove home missing 3 windows) and even THAT one reads my chips and runs the car..swap the demon..solid CEL...wtf

Today, a little warmer (still -8°C high , low -18°C) and I decided to fiddle after work today..mostly I wanted to start it and run it for 5-10 min and see if the oil level on the dipstick moves at all - it was a bit higher than it should have been (last time I was sure I filled to topdot), maybe 0.5cm up..definitely SOME coolant in the oil but I'm pretty sure this is from having to take the head of again to flip the gasket as when I did, apparently I didn't completely get all the coolant out of the head and a bunch went into the drain holes, plus, totally possible some went in when the gasket was flipped (though it only ran for about 20sec in this state before I saw the oil pressure crash and killed it).

I should have drained it first - but I'm frustrated and already almost out of the 15 litres of synthetic I got for this project and I wanted to know it's sealed!

After running for 5-10 minutes today, the oil level on the stick did not move. It sounds like ****, way too rich and didn't seem like all 4 were firing at idle..once it was a bit warmer I revved it up to launch cut where it sounded better.

smoked lots but it's rich a/f like it was black at some points haha but my downpipe was off and was running on the chip at that point.

anyway, after that I decided to try the demon again..solid CEL...hooked up my laptop..was looking around..found a hit in ectune's about->licensing page saying that I need to put the demon serial # in the second tab of Emulator->Emulator Info..even tho it was already in the first tab (read from demon)..anyway I guess this process is different for me because I have the Tuner version not the Pro Demon version..

I almost never would have figured that out. The demon connected, programmed and verified fine. I assume whatever got programmed must have been jumbled as it probably uses the serial # as a hash to generate the proper code. I may have been able to figure this out if I saved a bin and uploaded it with the separate app but..

anyway..no solid CEL with demon, oil level didn't come up, might be sealed..! Which means..i just have to tune it and do some finishing touches.

 

So I scored a BRAND NEW IN BOX set of old school Eurolite clear corners for $40 Canadian. I can't even get OEM corners from the junkyard for that cheap (I think it's like $45)..I'm hoping they fit the HATCH..they said they weren't for the sedan. Although I thought I swapped my corners once..could be wrong..not sure..totally actually confused on what the deal is with civic corners because I swear I got a set off a hatch that didn't fit my hatch and a set off a sedan that didn't fit my sedan..was almost wondering if there was a year difference.

I'm pretty sure the rears are same for coupe and sedan and diff for hatch, fronts I think maybe coupe and hatch same and sedan diff (thinking this cuz I thought coupe/hatch have same bumper and sedan has diff)

but this is confusing because the diff corner lights I saw were either shorter or longer (in relation to how far they wrap around the car) which I think would require different fenders BUT I think I've only ever seen one set of fenders for EGs like they are all the same.

anyone know da truth?

Still a score. And the shop that had them is interested in sub contracting me.

This is twice in the last like 2 weeks that I got BRAND NEW lights for my car..and good ones that came out in the car's era not just cheap eBay ones.

really, I want a set of 1piece for the fronts but haven't been able to find them cheap enough or had the cash ..plus most of the ones I've seen I don't exactly love..some have an ugly looking reflector where the corner light is and don t even look like they have a corner light? Shrug

Aside from that..i tuned the idle it purred.. have to make my downpipe not hit my rad anymore..

I bought some suspension springs for an RC car, I was going to stick one or both in my wastegate maybe seeing how they compare to the one in there. For those that don't know, my wastegate is a fake turbosmart 38mm That seemed to have a leaky diaphragm and a 14lb spring (did seem to hold around 15psi) but that's too high for my purposes - considering buying a real one but I'm designing an all electronic wastegate already so I'm torn as I would rather invest in that. I'm hoping the springs I got will work a bit. I only need lime 5-7psi spring maybe..never fully setup my boost controller because my spring was too high for it to do ANYTHING..


still annoyed as to the reason my ECUs weren't working. Hopefully I didn't mess up my p61 in the process. I also gotta figure out which of my ECUs is boost pwm capable

local guy selling autometer oil pressure gauge and pyrometer cheapish so I plan to add those to dataloging

also will NEED a backpressure sensor..its turning out to be really difficult to calculate or simulate the ACTUAL force at wastegate..data I need to design one! From my research it seems like generally the highest pressure in the manifold is 2:1 And if you were running 30psi that's 60psi in the exhaust fortunately the wastegate doesn't have to hold that all back..

 

Finally some good-ish news?

Corner lights fit perfect. Still gotta swap out the rear corners but that involves taking stuff out of my trunk.

It seems to be running really good. Changed the oil and ran it for 10-15 mins, revved it up some and everything..checked the oil after and it was clean and didn't come up
.
so I just need to put a tire back on the rear that I stole for the sedan, swap my headlight switch and license plate?
.
wee

 

So my crappy wastegate had a spring that was too heavy

I bought a suspension spring for an RC car..was a little small width wise and long height wise..

tried putting it in, wanted to slide around. Ok! Where's the JB WELD? (Lol my initials of course)

put some on.. didn't move..screwed the cap down..tried to actuate the valve. ****. Doesn't open enough, spring binding. *snip snip* fixed. Cut a few coils off. Now my wastegate opens about 2x easier than before, which is exactly what I was going for.

I borrowed a timing light to set base timing, turns out I didn't need it..i was BANG ON by ear..i guess it also helps that generally the dizzy set in the middle-ish is good-ness..at least on the B's I've had.

didn't have my downpipe on when tuning my idle either but now that I put it on my idle AFRs are right where I thought.

Having a weird issue, not sure if it's related to my ignition cut relay or my main relay yet..technically my ign cut relay only kills when it's ON, so turning it off by passes..so shouldn't be that..

the issue is basically, I'll get in and turn key, no ecu/fuel pump..this is with alarm unplugged so what should essentially be stock equivalent wiring.. then I d/c the battery quick and reconnect (have a quick disconnect ****) and fuel pump pops on and ecu is good to go..

thinking maybe main relay but I did change a bunch of stuff, add ignition and starter kill etc..but again, the relays for both kills are wired so that they re normally closed.. grounding the coil (which the alarm does when armed) opens the circuit. So it really SHOULDN'T be that but..Im also using a directed m500 relay back (ugh directed sucks sometimes) because I didn't want a bunch of relays around for all my different functions .. I could use mininrelays I guess but they re more pricy.. The relay box has like 5 and I have a bunch of extras.

weird that it pops on then..this combined with my ecu giving solid CEL due to bad chips or demon serial # not being in ectune proper also made me think my ECUs were fucked..think this is much less likely now..

in fact my factory chipped p61 seems fine..! Still have to add boost control to it but otherwise yay. I did kinda mess up some soldering in all this mess, just the ground pin on the chip which I fixed and pin #18 which goes to latch #13 had to run a wire. Bleh.

now to swap the main relay to see what happens

 

**** it's cold.
-22°C (-10ish°f)?

took it around the block. Actually wasn't too bad in the snow.. other than breaking my exhaust off the car..but if it wasn't fkd in the first place, it prob would have been fine.

lost my alternator belt for some reason? Sucked. Resoldered the main terminals on the main relay but it's still acting weird. Too cold to troubleshoot more.

got a headlight from the jy (the piaa's are on the sedan for now) it was bright but died ? I need to check over some wiring, unfortunately right after I did a bunch it got really cold before I was able to do full testing. Relays don't like the cold either. Gonna have to go over a few things still.

VTEC yo'd, yo. My cool VTEC light lit up and it sounded vteccy, So either it was the oring or the head. Hard to say since I swapped heads. For the most part everything sounded good and super smooth. At the end as I was parking it there was some misfiring maybe, kinda sounded like it, hopefully, pretty sure it was since I was running off a dying battery and my alt belt went proof.

After running it for a while and taking around the block, the oil was like 1/8-1/6 down the stick, no coolant..im sure the missing oil probably hadn't drained yet, so, perfect.

Hopefully over the next week I'll get it into my neighbors garage (they have a lift..and like 10 supras..lucky bastards) and fix up the exhaust.

Final to do before it starts serving daily duty again:
- fix exhaust
- check and test some wiring, replace or resolder main relay and reprogram remote start/alarm
- tidy/tuck wires under dash
- cut a notch in my ECU case for usb cable and mount ECU (when I was chipping, it sat on the floor, my gf hated it and I hated her kicking it..) also have to see if I can get any of my hc-06's to work and if not, wire in my Pi again to serve as a Bluetooth serial bridge.
- install new magnetic tablet mounts
- install new rear corner lights (requires at least removing rear deck and sitting in car)
- reconnect boost pipe, test wastegate mod, if works, hook up boost controller (which also involves installing my boost ****, hi-low switch is already installed)
- BED NEW BRAKES (hasn't run good enough/taken it for real drive to do so..did one drive long enough but didn't really bed them fully)
- tune.. will be doing street tune at first prob..might hit a dyno for an hour if funds allow but who knows.

forecast looks a bit better this week too. Obviously I can't really street tune in snow.

 

Tomorrow I'll be picking up an autometer pyrometer, electric oil pressure and water temp. Probably won't actually mount any of the actual gauges just use the sender's for datalogging. All BNIB.

same guy also selling me skunk2 pro camber kit which I needs.. s2 camber kit Is like 240usd online plus shipping (300 cad probably another 70-100 for shipping tax and duty) and I'm paying like 260 cad..BNIB.

can finally correct for the positive camber hitting that curb did..plus replacing the upper alone might help, only did the lower when that happened. Good excuse to install poly bushings there too, that's I'm think the one spot I didn't do.

should be warming up here soon too!

 

"bro" thanks for the "tip" but I am a tuner and not stock .. it is possible to disable all VTEC checks in most EMS which will set the ECU to throw VTEC signal at X RPM regardless. Non-

Also, your statement is potentially misleading to someone who is stock. Neutral has nothing to do with it, the ECU has no gear sensor - the only way it remotely knows what gear you are in is by calculating your RPM vs VSS vs your trans gear ratios, and TBH I'm not sure the stock ecu calculates that..either way it doesn't use it for VTEC.

To engage VTEC with how my ECU was setup at the time, all that had to be done was rev past the x-over, moving or not. I wouldn't recommend anyone set theirs up like that (maybe race only) but it was just for testing. Also tried triggering the 'noid directly whole revving.

STOCK VTEC will not engage unless the vehicle is moving, based off vss. Also uses RPM and VTEC pressure. I believe (would have to double check) it may also be temp based too but that may only be a chipped/standalone thing.

Don't get me wrong, I always appreciate help and suggestions especially when I'm struggling and I'm always open to learning, I don't know everything, but I was pretty sure I stated the VTEC checks are off..also..my problem never had to do with the ecu engaging it, it did so fine, it just would immediately disengage, which was likely due to bad oil pressure as the cam cap oring was done..although this is also a DIFFERENT head now so I can't say 100% thats the problem however the old one was tore down and nothing seems fucked - it was put together proper and not missing anything. Still using the same solenoid and VTP..id bet the oring

 

Ugh I blew too much money today

skunk2 pro camber kit BNIB
autometer 60mm pyrometer gauge and sensor kit
Autometer 60mm oil pressure gauge and sender kit
autometer 60mm water temp gauge and sender kit
Spec-D tuning 2.5"? full integra exhaust w/stock header and downpipe (not that I needed the header..lol)

My old exhaust was OE size for a Civic w/D series (previous owner said there was a different exhaust before but it was too loud for him, he took the car to CrappyTire (Canadian Tire..for US people I guess it's sort of a cross between a crappy hardware store, Wal-Mart and a crappy parts store..) and had them put an OE exhaust..course they assumed the car had a D so put tiny pipes on..actually a week after I got the car it snapped in the middle. They wouldn't even look at it even though I had the receipt (they also didn't know I wasn't the original customer)..ugh..not that I really wanted them touching my car but if it could've been fixed free, it would have been good.

little bit later I go to some random car forum dude's place on the premise that I need to use his welder to fix it. I get there and he instantly crawls under the car..and decides were gonna fix it by wrapping a piece of sheet metal around it and using hose clamps to secure it..like dude I came use your welder.. you wanna weld it because you don't trust people with your welder, fine! you're prob better than me if your welder is nice enough to feel that way..except his wasn't..I never asked him to work on my car or fix it..in the end the fix did sort of hold it together and made it quieter. He demanded $20 from me too, which, I don't mind paying people for their time but..I came to use a welder..I didn't come to have you fix my car..lol..

admittedly, as my welder (have one now) sucks (might as well not have) and I didn't have the clearance to weld my dp to the rest so I reused the sheet metal and clamps for a while..lol...but it's MY car..IM allowed to do shitty things to my own car..someone else isn't! Especially when they ask for $ for doing it..

anyway...got a semi used spec-d tuning exhaust local for $160 CAD. it was listed for "$300 firm", full system with stock teg .. didn't say what it was so I asked.. he said spec-d so I looked it up.. $150 US online sans any header and downpipe (obviously)..so I said I would maybe do 175 depending on how long it was used for..he came back with 160.. (wtf 99% of people I've talked to that say "firm" flip on you if you offer less, especially much less, whether or not the original price is less or close)..so I said ok..didnt look too bad and I needed something cheap as mine ripped off a few days ago..

it's another teg part (civtegra ftw) .. apparently just hangers are diff.. no biggie. I hope it's not TOO loud, I may use the current muffler if it the spec-d is. I didnt get a silencer ..

planning on making a better DP soon..looking back, with how **** my welder is and considering I'd never made one before, I did a pretty good job, some welds def suck but I was looking at one today and was surprised. I think I'd be ok to knock one out with a better welder. Gotta get SS pipe this time too maybe.

probably won't mount the gauges, will just wire the sender's to the ecu for dataloging .. hoping I can use the water temp sender for oil temp.

wee

 

Damn, so much going on.

 

Ya a lil bit, wish I had more cash.

Neighbors gonna let me use their lift tmr to put exhaust upp

 

Was thinking of adding up a rough estimate on what I has spents on this. *wince*

$600 chassis
-$270 sold vw rims that came w/chassis
$250? Bought ssr 4x114.3 15x7 w/rubber
$350 4x114.3 swap
$600 for turbo intercooler pipes adjustable cam gears aluminum radiator oil drain line used
$100 endyn catch can bnib
$350 PLX Wideband
$20 gauge pod
$100 tanabe sustec strut bar bnib
$370 11" prelude front brakes bnib
$100 eBay short shift and **** and boot bnib
$180 aeromotive fuel pump bnib
$200 fuel filter gauge and lines bnib
$400 tokico blues and nuspeed springs used
$330 moates demon
$100 in random ecu's
$80 in chips and boost control parts and bluetooth modules
$400 in glass used and new
$160 spec d exhaust
$260 skunk2 pro camber kit BNIB
$70 autometer gauges (pyro, oil pres, water temp)
$100 3000w inverter
$500 b1700024
$700 b1700484
$120 head gasket kit
$500 at least in oil and filters, in oil and coolant and filters

I just realized that most of my stereo was acquired thru trades or my work which is nice..

probably about 8k total if you included everything (I'm sure I missed a lot) obviously not including gas.. heh

 

I have awesome neighbors. Not only are they constantly doing nice-as builds (3 mk3 Supra's since I known them, was a t/a in the garage today..) they always are helpful with lending tools and stuff..and I share tuning knowledge in return..

but today I was able to bring my car over and put it on their lift. Nice to not be outside. Nice to not have to crawl. Nice to have some help for once.

the teg exhaust fit perfect except the muffler had 4" too much pipe..even the hangers lined up which every one says is different..? Shrug ..

will be re-doing my shitty downpipe tomorrow and will have a fully sealed non leaking exhaust for once..yay..2.5" whole way too should be nice..hoping the new muff isn't too loud tho.

 

New exhaust done. My neighbors helped build a wbole new dp and weld it all up. Need to get some turbo gaskets. Still have some weirdness wiring going on. Need to clean it up and make it permanent now. Also have a drip from my old stock fuel pipe into the new fitting for my aftermarket filter. My turbo drain fitting is loose too, so gotta drop the oil pan..gonna fking use some sort of epoxy or something on the nut this time!

started smoking out the can when I drove it home last night (around the block lol) after I hit VTEC (with no real load).. was worried at first..but I guess it's just condensated as **** inside my motor from cold + barely running + occasional starting with no real driving + coolant getting in the oil from before..

it wasn't smoking today when I started it..frothy under the cap but oil level still exactly where it should be..a bit when it warmed up but..better. I actually drove to the train station today to pick my girl up. She had to sit in the back, didn't want her feet near my ecu! Haha.

it is running a little "warm"..I think..either the ECT is reading high or the fan switch is reading low?

the stock gauge is pretty useless but, previously I could tell if I was around 100°C as it would start going up and really go up passed like 103°C..103°C is my overheat protection setting, I did barely hit it a bit.. but..my fan (when not commanded by the ECU) wasnt turning on until about 100°C according to the ECU, previously it would turn them on around 89-92°C..but that was a different motor.

so I need to swap the sensor and recheck.. it doesn't SEEM like it's running hot..dont think it's really overflowed, don't have my tank on..it didn't fit before because my fan had to be moved over because of my old downpipe..had a pop bottle but that disappeared.. guess I can put that back on now..didnt feel or seem hot..

was running pretty good..for some reason my demon got corrupt, reloaded my map, didn't wanna start, fuel was all over, there must have been an adjustment that wasn't in my saved file. I did set a fuel injector offset of 10 after some experimenting which made it idle way better. I'm hoping the injector battery specs I found are right, should be but the manufacturer doesn't publish them, and since I'm not the first owner I can't get the info..found it on a LS (Chevy not teg) forum from someone who had the same ones (same part#?)..took me hours to find it..maybe days..

I haven't ever a/b tested these settings with, say something for "similsr" injectors or stock but they ran fine in the b18 like this..odd though, I never did have an offset on the b18..not sure if it was needed but maybe it would have made things smoother. Hard to say since I can't test that.






been slacking on pics will have to take more later

*drool* mm suprah
My old wastegate spring and a new one..from an rc car..lol

 

Swapped ECT. Temps are normal now. Didn't loose any coolant on a 20km test drive.

I think..maybe..just maybe..that I'm done ripping the engine apart for a bit..

next up..
tune.
fix fuel drip.
swap back to a 4 wire alt or figure out why this one is only giving 12.7v
setup boost control (seems like the new wg spring is better haven't really hit boost yet due to tune)
clean up wiring, cut hole in ecu for usb, run header for datalogging and analog inputs
put strut bar back on, steel tire back from sedan
plug alarm back in and reprogram it
reinstall center console, steering shroud and dash panel
install s2 camber kit, get laser alignment.