When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh ya also gotta figure out of the shitty map I got is indeed fried or not. Also got a "new" (jy) tb I wanted to install for some reason. Oh yeah my tps plug is kinda cracked on the sensor and it doesn't read perfect. Well it's fine after an adjustment but ya.. currently using the external map from the gsr..i may have fried the other two switching plugs out of desperation
Lost da alternator belts (lower nut came off, too cold to fix without getting on the hoist) but made it home lol. Well, made it 20' from where I park before the battery died. Had to steal some power from the outlet on a neighbors garage.
Seems like all the issues I had were things I may have forgot to tighten completely..lower alternator bolt, intercooler pipe connection at turbo outlet..nothing else fortunately.
The exhaust is quiter than the Sedan @ idle (which is stock but leaking) but quickly gets loud. It is hitting my shifter at some resonant frequencies and resonating the **** out of the car in other places. I urged my neighbors to use the flex pipe I had but they didn't think it was needed, may have helped volume. Still need to order the silencer for my pipe and maybe adjust the exhaust a bit, where the bend is to go to the passenger side (and then over the wheel) is a tiny bit far back and not quite sitting in it's "slot", nothing was touching as hung though.
Seems like I got most of the moisture out of my oil..she isn't smoking at all!
I took it into boost a few times gently, my VTEC base is waaay too rich..vtec kicked in before I hooked up the turbo and was kind of ok, power missing due to rich..then with turbo she just bogged out do to under 10 AFR.
My gf accidentally broke my tuning laptop the other night. Damn good I don't need a parallel port to burn chips anymore. Was an old laptop, specifically for that reason. Spent the whole night trying to get my copy of eCtune working again on my MacBook Pro..at least I get more screen space now..have to set up eCtune from scratch which was really annoying (window positions, gauges, LEDs, graphs, datalog and emu settings, wb02 settings, etc..) but it's going (still have to set up the gauges in the program good)
Also noticed that ectune has no capability that i can see to read the additional analog inputs on the demon, so I'll probably switch to Neptune sometime this year..unless we see some updates to ectune (I can't say why or totally share the information I have, but I can say it is ACTUALLY a possibility..)..but I don't see that being a priority even if it was updated..shrug..i don't currently absolutely need them but will eventually.
should know tomorrow whether it being wired this way is the cause of my 12.6v issue.
Seems likely, found out my alt plug has 3 pins.. (4pin obd2 plug in this situ) and those 3 aren't the right 3 to have 3..eg..the ALT-FR Wire is connected to the ALTC pin..
should know tomorrow whether it being wired this way is the cause of my 12.6v issue.
Seems likely, found out my alt plug has 3 pins.. (4pin obd2 plug in this situ) and those 3 aren't the right 3 to have 3..eg..the ALT-FR Wire is connected to the ALTC pin..
so my alt was toast, well at least it's VR, I did get 14v for a few mins but went back to 12v right away and couldn't get 14v back.. see linked thread .. it's replaced tho.
dropped the pan to fix my oil leak (turbo drain fitting came loose)
yar
New MAHLE oil pan gasket (apparently Victor reinz is now mahle gaskets) and epoxied the inner nut of my bulk head fitting for my turbo drain so it doesn't move again and if it does I can tighten it without dropping pan
new alternaror belt, smallest one to date (305, asked for 95mcivic 1.5l cuz I got one from rock auto before it was 310 good size) meh 305 fit
getting 14v at idle
fresh oil purring away
will do some tuning tomorrow!
got a small exhaust leak at muffler (friend used gasket for 3" Cuz he had one, but it wasn't perfect) and need turbo gaskets. Also gonna order silencer for muffler.
love how deep it sounds at idle.
cold a/F out my feet are cold it's 3am time to put tools away
So I had a bit of a fuel leak. Initially I thought it was where I put the aftermarket fitting on the stock hardline, wrong. My gauge was starting to fog/residue up and I realized after looking closer, wiping, tightening, that it was the GAUGE!
Again, bit by being cheap. I mean, I originally got it as a diagnosis aid and to ensure my fuel pressure is where it should be, currently using the stock FPR and currently my injectors are big enough for my needs, I'm an advocate of not using too much pressure. Makes pump work harder.
Yeah the cheap gauge blew up. Got a liquid filled autometer and then read about how bad liquid filled can be. This has an equalization port tho, so it should be ok, it seemed dead on where it should be, old one was reading weird too and then fogged up so bad I couldn't even see it.
the autometer was only like $15 more anyway
also got a flexlite rad fan and installed it. Picked up some turbo gaskets. One is wrong. Boo-urns.
After putting my oil pan back on with a new gasket, it leaking oil in the bad. The ***** **** *****. Neighbors were busy so did it outside. Got sore, dirty..swore lots..painted oil pan, brought it inside to dry, downstairs neighbor flipped out, moved it, ruined the paint, wrote a note assuming I sprayed inside informing me "How dangerous it is to spray paint beside a furnace" ...
anyway gonna throw it on the lift tomorrow and fix leak. Then will fix the gasket at the back of car and adjust my exhaust a bit. If there's time, maybe the s2 camber will go in but I doubt it.
I already half azz tried to solder it, didn't change my situ. I don't actually know it's the main relay. Even so, I'm using my own fuel pump relay so half the main relay is useless to me. I may just wire in a regular relay for the other HALF!
but first I'm gonna swap the main relay in from the sedan to confirm that's my issue .. might also be a loose ecu wire I've had a few issues with that. I should probably replace my harnesses but I don't wanna pull the dash, not sure if that's required but would probably be a PITA without doing it.
It's weird the problem like.. I do key on.. no fuel pump or ecu .. obv no fuel pump cuz ecu controls it
if I flick my quick disconnect on and off
it goes every time
And colder today, it no ignition. I don't know if there's a relay latching or what I gotta check a few things but it's annoying..probably a bad relay or something.
I am using a dei relay satellite from one of their remote starts for additional functions without having a big stack of relays..its an odd board but I'm sure I got it mostly figured out and i don't even think I'm using it for ign cut, just starter cut, signal light hack and defroster
I may swap it out with mini relays instead or a relay board, shrug.
also got this cool 12v switch bus thing I wanna use.. been looking forever for a terminal block that is connected (negative bus bar) but had not much luck. This thing isn't exactly that but I can use it for cool stuff and has toggle switches so.. I can run everything thru there like my gauges and actually turn em off if I want.
wiring, wee
oh I did the boost control mod to my ecu and put it together with the covers.
May still be leaking a wee bit of oil.. Dunno from where yet..not 100% sure either
also been getting some weird noises at weird times - I think it's related to my exhaust but I haven't been able to isolate.
dropped the 7200 brain for a 7000 brain .. adds a few extra alarm specific features like backup battery, second sensor, few other minor things..
gonna do lock solenoids, hatch release and gas door release. Might do a tailgate release too..would be neat..would want the hatch to actually open if I did that and not just pop..maybe overkill but any features like this I implement will be transferred to a street chassis once this one is full race, and on a nice street car, there's no limit on what I'd do with one of these. Also found out I have electric window kits in the warehouse, gonna have to check it out.
I plan on adding a proximity sensor and glass break. I've added a second internal siren. Backup battery is installed. Thinking about adding the RPS Touch (turns part of my windshield into a touch screen keypad), more for demo purposes. Installed the security light, will have two. Defrost comes on based on temperature. Can configure it to start based on temperature.
It's also my turbo timer, but my ignition kill cuts it out right now, gotta work on that. My other ignition issue hasn't happened again for me to trace.
There is a few things I'm not loving with the manual transmission setup - I can't take over (it turns off when you open door) and it's easy to cancel the reservation. I don't mind the process for setting reservation, it's basically foot brake, hand brake, lift foot done..which is basically normal parking process..but if I accidentally unlock my door, or if I have to grab something from the car, I have to reset reservation mode which involves starting the car..
I may switch to automatic mode (DON'T DO THIS!!) - I would loose the accelerometer (ft-das) sensing (at least its implied this is the case, ive never tested..) however the DC3 may be dropping this for the stick sensor.. but they may use both..compustar wants both but iDatalink who makes the hardware now says the stick sensor is good enough. I say both should be usable, perhaps not required. In fact, I think the motion function of the ft-das should apply to autos too..quite unlikely one would ever start in gear but still..would also prevent it remote starting if it was in tow..but hey I don't engineer these..I'm sure I could engineer a pretty sick analog system, but once you need to support 10,000 different vehicles data lines, can busses and immobilizers that becomes something you need a team for..
Now, I have some ideas along with a magnetic switch on the shifter to detect neutral in order to make this completely safe. It will be fully tested and I'm quite confident my idea will work better than the DAS alone - but this is a vehicle specific application. I won't share the details of my plans publically, at least not until it's fully tested but probably not ever - 99.999% of people should never consider using a remote starter in automatic mode on a manual car. But if you are an engineer and can better the safety and get more convenience, then by all means go ahead but you won't need my instructions..
my idea would disallow even an attempt at starting if the shifter isn't in neutral. Assuming that safety failed, i believe it would have the ability to detect motion and respond quicker than the accelerometer in the das, although it has settings for 3 or 4 inches which I still think is a bit much..but I would not mind keeping that as a 3rd fail safe. Mag switch, secret motion sensor, accelerometer and tach sensing.
The new DC3 will have a gear shifter sensor, I'm hoping to beta test this soon..will be very nice option for most vehicles especially just the fact that manual vehicles can now benefit from everything else the dc3 does awesomely.
Did some driving and minor tuning, got lots more to do.. VTEC has been nice and consistent..well consistent in triggering..still gotta tune.. went from like 12.5 to solid 10 when I hit VTEC haha bog city.
I hate these injectors..i swear they're wierd as ****..gotta get better ones..
if I set the adjustment to 440cc (their size) over 240cc p, it should come close but it's like 20% off still or something.
I also don't know 100% if my battery offsets are 100%, I found them on a Chevy is forum from someone who apparently had the same part# injectors..which also doesn't seem to make too much sense hnless it was only a minor part # diff (plug/mount or something but same basic design)
racetronix injectors. I asked the manufacturer who basically told me to go f myself because I didn't buy them brand new. Lol. I'm sure this is documented somewhere earlier in this thread tho.
Now I'm wondering .. I can probably measure it! I has a scope!
I need to carve out a chunk of time and catch up on this build. Looks like all kinds of stuff going on. Keep at it, dude.
lol.. feel free to skim unless you want to know ALL the details..this thread is also partly a personal archive for myself, I can go back and see what I did, when, how I did it, in case I forget or misremember something. I admit, I have been pretty fail on pictures lately, an explanation of why and a rant about Samsung tablets follows. I will be trying to get more pictures as I go, it really helps a build thread IMO.
the next steps are tuning, verifying if i still have any leaks and fixing them and installing my skunk2 camber kit and taking it to Jackie @ Balance Auto for a laser alignment - these guys work on beautiful Japanese cars all day, their builds are nice and I would recommend them - but I wouldn't bring your grandmas car or anything, I felt bad enough asking them to do a safety on the Sedan when I first got it after seeing the cars they were working on! But they did it, were nice about it and the price was very fair.
After seeing him use his alignment machine on another car, damn, I wish I had one!!! I'm still going off my tape measure alignment, which is still the straightest this car has been since I've owned it, not getting any toe wear anymore but my caster has been a bit out on the right since I hit the curb (only replaced lower arm too after).. I think replacing the upper arm will help alone. Camber will help. I'm sure it's diff too with these springs since they are lower. I think I'll run with the lower springs for now until I start doing some rally testing (prob this summer) at which time I will need to figure out longer springs, perhaps strut spacers, maybe extended / adjustable top hats if needed !
would love to have height adjustable coilovers that could do like 1-2 inch lower than stock to 2-3 higher?
Tablet stuff and reason for less pics:
My new tablet (had Samsung Tab S, how have tab S2) is a bit trickier to take pics with as the case covers the camera. The camera, which seems no better than the Tab S also doesn't have a flash, the S1 did. Also lowered the DPI significantly in the change from 16:10 to 4:3 from 2560x1880 to 2048x1546, Weird how 4:3 doesn't feel as square on a tablet as it did on an old crt. Relocated the speakers that were perfectly placed for video viewing in landscape mode to portrait (both speakers are on the "bottom" when holding it vertically), imho there should be 4 speakers. They also removed infrared blaster. It does seem snappier although the cpu/gpu/ram itself isn't much of an upgrade. The fingerprint sensor is HUGELY improved and is one of its saving graces. It feels more durable, almost bulkier but in a good way (I went thru 2 s1's in 3 years, $$$$). All in all, I can't complain as it was a gift and replaced my s1 which broke (screen no longer turns on, same as my first s1, scrrens are cracked, both lasted a while cracked and eventually wont turn on. SoC still works tho!) a week after I got the 2s.
I do wanna get a go pro or similar problem is $$$$
someone send me a go pro so I can make tutorial videos for car electronics stuff! Cmon im gonna digitize the eg hvac! No one wants to watch?
Right. Eh, it was annoying but I was able to pull my tunes off it with a monitor (only broke the screen) so..that plus a night of fist fighting with ectune to get it running on my mbp..
plus she never got a ride the next day cuz the demon was blank at the time, haha.. and she felt bad enough for breaking it i didnt even have to say anything..
I've had some wierd clanking in my exhaust lately at times, j haven't been pushing it hard because I'm still in the early stages of tuning, it's been off and on cold still and yeah..
I figured the clanking was just related to exhaust fitment, but it wouldn't go into boost at all on the way home and clankies a lot.
Turns out I was right about the sound I was hearing. EBay turbo is dead. Lasted about a year, half at about 7-10psi cut and half at 15psi cut..about 20,000km and lots of boost..Likely my fault - when I got it, it never came with a restrictor and I ran it, I was hoping the "restriction" on the oil inlet would have been enough (was a pretty small hole but compared to a real restrictor it's huge, as I now know).. was fine for quite a while but started smoking as the seals blew from too much pressure.. since my new engine swap, I put in a restrictor, seemed fine at first but was barely boosting because I am still early in tuning. I'm assuming since the seals blew, it wasn't holding the oil in very well (although it didn't seem to be burning any this time) either that or my feed line is leaking or something.
I WILL BE ORDERING ANOTHER EBAY TURBO ASAP! I am going to try and get something very similar if not the exact same (specs wise). I believe this was a Godspeed ("gsp" on housing. Just a guess. Also has m12 on housing like so many others.) I forget the a/rs but I thought it was a "60trim", I didn't care much it was cheap and it boosted perfect for my application-could get over 5psi at 3200rpm if spooled right a and it never ran out of juice for my uses but the new 1.7 (b17a1) will outflow the old 1.8 (b18b1) I'm sure because of the VTEC head and higher rev limit / different cam (though that kind of falls in with VTEC)
I feel like an idiot, so, I ordered this HonData gasket from a member and I checked the tracking late last night and it said delivered on the 4th .. panicked a bit at first.. well that was actually Jan 4th and the last thing I ordered, went to the url in my history by accident then I track the right number..ok not here yet!
then today..i make my room mate go over to the mailbox (a block away) to check..for something that wouldn't even be here yet..i find he finds nothing and get worried again.. all the while forgetting that.. IT'S STILL IN TRANSIT I MIXED UP THE TRACKING NUMBERS. so basically I forgot I mixed em up lol
not gonna tell him I sent him out there chasing goose.
anyway I sent a message to speed daddy asking what parts an auction came with.. here was their shitty response:
Me:
Very interested in ordering this.
- Does this come with the gasket for the OUTLET?
- is it available with a nipple on the compressor housing?
- Does it come with any STUDS?
I only see the INLET gasket pictured and it is very hard to find this outlet gasket style locally and I don't want to order separate and would prefer to order from a more established seller of "EBay turbos" (ie you) but other auctions for similar turbos do show the gasket, nipple as well as stud hardware thanks
Them:
Please contact a professional turbo mechanic for suggestions and recommendations. Sorry but we'll only have information regarding the parts we sell only.
God damn it, I just want to order one already and not wait a week for sellers to ******* answer me and not even read my question.
02-17-2018, 05:13 PM
Re: Rally Hatch build thread
