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So I have some features I want to implement to my alarm/remote start/turbo timer system.. these things can't be programmed in normally.
one thing, I don't want my internal siren to go off when lock unlock etc. They say the siren2 output is identical to siren1. But why have two? I can assign siren1 to multiple output wires so I don't see the purpose of siren2, thought it was for this feature specifically, I haven't tested but support says newp
also I want my fans to stay on during turbo timer. There is no output that goes off only on turbo timer, and I don't want my fans running any other time the module has the vehicle started.
These systems use rs232 between the antennas and accessory devices. I am hoping my relationship with the manufacturer will enable them to supply me with some documentation.
In the mean time..my scope reads rs232! So I just need to hook it up, scope the output, find out what baud it is at, datalog the outputs I need, program an arduino to fire an output on those inputs hooked to a relay.
I am also considering developing some other things for these things but not sure yet. I'd like to make good, inexpensive and universal remote starter remotes maybe.
either way, it'd be to have those two things to start with. There already exists a Bluetooth controller for DEI products, depending on it's output it may be compatible with others but Bluetooth could be nice, phone control w/out having to pay a SIM card fee (albeit limited range) and proximity unlocking without carrying the silly ezgo card. I wonder how well I could make that work tho, I mean the main event would be pair/unpair.
Ys1 has landed with its new owner and is off to his race shop for prep.
my eBay shifter broke again. The epoxy job I did before wasn't great. Tried again with no prep, lasted a few hours lol. So I prepped it, let it sit and it's tight now, should be good for a bit..
There is a few things about eBay short shifters.
first, they are sold for both Integras and civics but are the same part (from what I've seen). The one I got was definitely for a d-series shifter and didn't come with spacers to make it wide enough for a b series. I inserted some washers and crap to make it work but it was still a bit loose. Last time I did that and I think I bent it down a bit, super tight now, not perfect but close.
second thing is they are two piece and screwed together. I didn't even realize this at first, I thought it was welded together or something. Im talking between the ball and rod. Its actually tapped and screwed in. Found this out after a while when it came loose. The threads started galling and failing.
They re also aluminum so I wasn't able to weld it with my stick, the tig my neighbors has doesn't do a/c so I used epoxy again.
I would recommend anyone with an eBay shifter to put it in a vice, unscrew the ball and put some epoxy or red threadlocker on the threads. As long as the threads are tight, you should be fine. If not, it'll break. Trust me. I shift pretty gentle 99.9% of the time and the 0.1% I'm not, it's nowhere near as hard as what I see other people doing. It's not like I have a dog box.
fucked my foot left too yesterday
I did fix my oil leak. I did a compression test (though I was a little anxious about doing it) and the numbers were perfect. I think I'm losing a tiny bit of coolant, not sure where, I don't see any leaks..could be getting into the chambers but my compression test numbers seem to dispute that (plus I don't even get a faint smell of burning coolant like I do in the sedan which eats about the same amount or even less coolant but definitely has it getting in the chambers)
it is smoking sometimes. Pretty much only if I leave it idling too long. I have a slight dip in my turbo drain, so that could be a cause, I will fix that soon (although it never seemed to be an issue before, it can be and should be fixed anyway)
otherwise maybe valve seals, I did forget to out in my spring lands/retainers (brain farting on the proper word, the metal washer-type thing that the spring sits on top of) before putting the seals in and had to reinstall the seals and removing them was a pita and maybe slightly damaged a few..but..
I dunno, that is the only time it smokes - if I let it sit running for like 10min. Maybe sometimes in vac at high rpm (above 7k) but otherwise she's clean, doesn't really smoke on boost or anything either.
but if I do let it idle and drive away, it's a lot. Like embarrassing. Like I just seafoamed my ****. But that could easily be oil backing up in the turbo into the exhaust (which I can believe cuz I've seen oil build up around the exhaust flange)
my idle oil pressure has been a bit low since switching filters (was always 20ish. Now like 14ish), I think this could be because I have a synthetic filter and dino oil, prob not the best combo - my first filter was past due and it's what I had, didn't habe synthetic because the car was leaking bad and it would just be a waste of money. Will switch to a slightly thicker (maybe, 15w40 or something) synthetic soon.
Shortened my turbo line. Redid my oil pan so my drain fitting is higher. Thought my drain fitting came out and I lost oil pressure but actually it was the line for my gauge. Stupid autometer brass line. Steel braided going in now.
got new ES bushings (cheap) for the rear shock mount and new oem bolts. will finally get my rear suspension on.
installed hertz components up front. Was a bit worried cuz they're 5.25 and my old kickers were 6.5 but it's still a big improvement and they were free (came out of a bmw that we upgraded to audison) still gotta drill holes for the tweeters. I'm considering gabbing rear side speaker mounts. I seen a few in the jy but they've always been trashed, I should have checked for brackets at least but meh..someone on here was selling em but I think like 200us which is waay too much for me.
I have deck 6x9s so it's not really necessary but I have some 4" blaupunkt that came from sams BMW I could use.
thought about putting a third sub in the back seat as I already have a spare amp sub channel and spare sub...dunno tho my bass hits pretty hard as-is.
gonna start cleaning up the interior and exterior. I found a brand new red civic HB carpet locally for a good price and some angel eye lights (not 1piece unfortunately so they won't be my last) so I'll pick those up this week.
I also found a hatch chassis. Advertised with no price ("we don't know what it's worth"), apparently it smokes, it's listed as an auto. Rust in pics isn't too bad, better than mine! They say it's prob only good for parts, I'll have to see it. If I can grab it for like $250 I'll take it. Might use it for parts but if it's not too far gone, it might be my street mobile..I don't know the trim but it has airbags, AC and rear wiper. No sunroof unfortunately (really wanted to eventually get a nice clean SI chassis for the road) but if it's clean-ish, I might salvage her and fix 'er up, will see.
I mean seriously. Omfg. Like, I must have a horse shoe up my ***! Which confuses me because like, half the time I have no luck.
so, like 2 months ago I was working for a client.. I saw a 2nd gen Integra up the street and was still swapping in my b17, I walked up and took a peak and it was a GSR. Looked like it had been sitting for a bit. I left a card saying, if you ever wanna sell, give me a call.
I wake up today to a text.. "hey I'm thinking of selling my gsr.." I'm like, uh sure, I dunno when I'll have enough but I'm definitely interested!!
The next text..."...185kKM (like 140k miles) and I'm willing to let it go for $200" ..
What am I thinking at this point? YOUR MISSING A ZERO BUD. My answer? "DONE. NO QUESTIONS ASKED. YOU HAVE A DEAL."
So, he's out of town for 10 days, left the hood open for me so I'm gonna go peek but..I think I just bought a 93 GSR.
Got oem style fogs today. Supposed to be for sedan. Might use em on hatch. Haven't decided. Came with stock switch. Also going to get angle eye lights.
still drooling over my gsr too. Chekc teg forum i made a threadsies
installed it, re-scaled, fired first try. I guess the eBay 3bar I bought really was a piece of ****. Not only is it dead now (although that's admittedly my fault, I mixed it with tps) but it took days to get it to work right and never did scale good and didn't really read under 200mbar, which sucked..but this 2.5 bar is working flawless.
literally installed it re-scaled and went on a short road trip.
so I'm getting ignition blow out again. I'm already at 24 thou on the plugs. Getting new VTEC NGK wires today. My non vtec accel wires fit perfect but the ngk non vtec didn't.
Started a base map for a clients built d16a6/z6 the other day. Will be getting some goodies in exchange for the final tune.
1000cc injectors Bosch, aem rail and reg
ktuned style adjustable shifter pretty sure it's a knockoff
Rear speaker pods and mount
another demon that should be regd for neptune
although I went thru Neptune again tonight and really there's not much it has ectune doesn't. Ectune has things Neptune doesn't. HonData has more than both but still lacks closed loop pid boost control which ive found nice.
Car behind mine is the d eg im tuning
More pics You mean?
tuning a e.g. with a a6/z6 fully built vitaras cam 75.5 grower stage 2 turbo valcetrain ibeam rods etc
fun. 18 year old kid buys the car. Gets some sketchy help to throw a big *** holset on it from a Cummins. Hood exit. Lol. Single port gate st 7psi.
ecu had a Neptune tune and a Demon2. I'm taking the demon as partial payment,as well as the 1000cc injectors (supposedly 1000cc) and a fake ktuned adjustable shifter with mugen ****.
so..
first day..he comes at me saying he's not sure if high afr (like higher number) is rich or lean. People telling him he is rich at 17 to 1 in boost and lean at 12 to 1 in idle. I say wow, I didn't know there were people that stupid out there. Good thing it hasnt blown yet and explain afr a bit and where he should be. I tell him not too boost and come over, do a quick basemap to get him into somewhat normal AFRs. Didn't tech the car at this point.. (basemap basically) also flushed and bled bled his clutch for him with dot5.1+(600°) racing fluid because it was to the floor. Prob overkill fluid for a clutch but it's all I carry. Actually my supplier was out of the redline 600 and we got some wilwood 570..used that for flush and the 600 to fill. Should do his brakes too.
Few days later he comes back for full tune. The shifter was supposed to be part of payment so I swapped it out with a grinded down b series stock one and new ES bushings (the ones I ordered for a dby accident like 2 years ago and had since) which made it tighter than new, he likes.
I also swap out the injectors and remind myself d and b rails aren't compatible even when aftermarket (wanted to also steal his aem rail but meh). My racetronix 440s go in his and the supposed 1000cc go in mine. On his, I had configured them about 700cc and on mine now they're tuned for like 550cc..makes me wonder..will have to pull them out and check the code. Asked the guy to ask the guy he got the car from for deets, havent got em yet
Found a hole in his throttle body beside the TPS, not sure it was leaking. He had the same shitty 3bar I couldn't tune worth **** before on my car, he only has a 7psi single port gate and no boost controller yet..well we are installing one but the turbo is huge so big boost isn't really needed. We put on a stock sensor and threw the 3bar out.
the tps on the broken tb was a crappy replacement too putting out odd voltages. We tuned for them but it it was super jerky at part throttle on/off and sucky. We ripped the t/b off and replaced it with a b series throttle body. It's bigger. His coupling barey fit. Part throttle much better.
Next day
VTEC wouldn't engage. It was hooked to the VTEC line and all the other ECUs outputs are all fucked. It is a p06. Modded for boost but not modded for vtec. Looks like they tried every extra output and fried them all. I tested p02h, evap, fanc, a.c. clutch, none work. Swapped in my ecu just to verify it wasn't a wiring issue - bam all outputs work dine.
will have to fix his ecu or replace it. Likely I'll replace it. Will see. Have a chipped p06 coming on Sunday I believe.
Tried to do VTEC with my ecu. Would not engage. After trying to do VTEC it is acting like there is a vacuum leak. Haven't had any luck finding or diagnosing that now. Tried a fresh tune no change.
Then today..
pulled the valve cover and rocker assembly. D series is so wierd. Pulled out the rocker shafts VTEC pins seem find but oo lookey here : no VTEC oil orifice oring at all. Well that won't help. Find a ring that fits (it's smaller than b series surprise surprise) and gotta put it back together still.
hopefully VTEC will engage now. I thought maybe it wa revving high because VTEC wouldn't disengage or something but I guess that's not it. Def seems like a vac leak tho reading 500mbar sometimes .. I will have to triple check everywhere tomorrow.
the engine itself seems built proper. I will check his valve clearance while I'm in there. Hm i wonder how this cam would affect clearance spec.
we are getting there tho. Did a compression test today too. Wierd #s. 158 150 150 145 ish not the best not terrible it is built for boost so I wasn't expecting super high numbers
my Mac Book Pro got stolen out or my car. Had it in for some datalogging. Woke up this morning to my keys beeping saying my door was open for a while and I ran out it was wide open, car gone thru and laptop stolen
Got some proxes ra1. 225/50zr15 for front 205/50zr15 for rear. Might habe to swap them. Would have preferred 225/45 and 205/50 but I got a good deal. They're barely worn at all like 7/32.
people say they don't grip well when cold. Well it was about 16 degrees C out, tried to do a burn out at 5k 2psi and they dead hooked so not bad. Any street tires would have spun.
Had a guy come buy a b series starter yesterday. Said if I needed any seals or anything to give him part #s .. just thought of fuel o rings off top of head and gave him #, he shows up with 4 OEM honda ones and hands em to me.
Now I think he's gonna hook me up with some trailing arm bushings. I was (and will still eventually) get ASR ones but..for the price, i might as well use em, which means i can finish my 4x114.3 swap and put all 4 of my ra-1s on.
broke my downpipe. Was doing a lot of dirt driving this week as I went out of town. Car is too low. Suspension in the front feels good tho. Need to get the rear on, itll help. Maybe raise the front a bit for dirt
So it wasn't so much the weld in the piecutbend as the pipe itself that snapped. I half *** welded it together. The weld where the resonator chamber goes over the pipe too snapped. Ugh. It's a little quieter, for now.
guy who sold me tires offered to make me new dp. Might take advantage!
was trying to get this single cam I'm tuning home and the cam holder snaps on me. Fml.
Off to pnp i go.
04-21-2018, 06:07 PM
Re: Rally Hatch build thread
