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My transmission is leaking out the intermediate shafts hole. I got a cheap parts store seal for it and think I'll slap it in with the old clutch from the b18 and the best bearings I can find around here.
new pilot and throw out bearing from Honda is like 200 alone without the seals. Definitely want to do that and the clutch but winter is fast approaching and if I wait 2 weeks I'll be working in snow, so I figure:
as this is being built into a race car which should have an easily swappable engine and I'm working on making that happen, I'll throw it in now so it works and I can drive (not tow!) The car to the garage I'll be renting soon.
Then I can make finishing touches (vtec wiring, etc), fix the front end on the sedan so it stops eating tires, then throw in a new clutch.
I know I'm creating more work by not just getting a clutch and bearings first, and I haven't 100% decided. I want to drive it at least a bit before snow, and I don't want to work on it in snow..I also don't want to really tear out the engine in 2 weeks for a clutch, though I will if I must.
I will see how the next few days goes work-wise (financially and on the car) .. if I have enough cash for bearings and clutch before I get the rest of the smaller details worked out, I'll grab it, but I'm not sure that'll happen..not much small left..some plumbing, wiring new fuel pump, removing old clutch line, few other things,,ŕ/
11lb flywheel test mounted ARP's instructions for the flywheel bolts. Arp vs oem flywhel bolts Arp flywheel bplts Collection of clutches Broke seal, leaking my $$$ Honda MTF Poo Leaky leaky. Got a new (non oem) seal. May not use it. Cleaning valve cover Valve cover inside comparison Outside comparison New blingy bolts New blingy bolt on new chassis ground Main negative ground Main negative ground strap with quickrelease terminal Body ground Finished cable, 1 AWG Making 1 AWG ground I need a garage And some minions, come help me!
Fml. I'm f'n sore. Went to pnp today and couldn't get the botch pin out of any of em. Broke a $60 drill bit and a snap on punch trying. Like wtf me and my friend couldn't believe I broke either.
started taking off the driver knuckle for the sedan off one, noticed they have half off sale next week so gonna grab it then just have to hammer off the BJ's, hopefully no one steals it in the meantime.
may go back and attempt drilling a pin out again or buying the right size punch. May also smuggle in a torch. The last 2 cars I found were in decent shape and the pin looked like it could come out unlike mine which was completely seized (and I still have to grind it off the transmission)
picked up a pilot bearing for like 40bux. Not Honda they had to order it didn't want to wait will be putting in a new clutch soon but want to get this engine in so it can be driven to a garage so I don't have to work in the fkn cold. Ps Im from Canada and we live in igloos.
Got the flywheel torqued. Followed arps instructions to a tee. Blue threadlocker on threads, arp lube under head. I also ordered arp PP bolts but they haven't arrived, again, will be getting a new clutch very soon and don't want to wait. Hopefully the flywheel still looks nice by then, I don't want to machine it more than necessary. I can't wait to try it out, I had kind of hoped to try it on the b18 so I'd know the exact difference. I've never driven a b17 so..should be good though!
still need plugs for vtec and knock sensor :/ anyone wanna send me some??
so I also got a "proper" oil restrictor fitting. Came with two slightly different sized restrictor fittings that screw inside the main fitting. I've tee'd this off into an oil pressure sender so I can datalog turbo oil pressure and see what each fitting gives me. I will likely use a regulator or separate turbo oil system if I continue to use jb turbos. Maybe I'll get a little life left out of this turbo until I get a new one.
So I was looking for a clutch alignment tool, couldn't find them, forgot how many splines and kinda went by look. There was one labeled for Honda that had huge splines (d series maybe?) I didn't think it'd work but I grabbed it anyway. There was another one for $1.70 on clearance that was about the same diameter and more splines (the Honda one was 6bux!) So I grabbed it because why not. Clerk reminds me on the way out, no returns on the clearance one, whatever it was 2bux..but I still thought for a sec, "that sucks", in case it was wrong.
turns out the mystery one was perfect fit. The Honda one will probably go back. 6 bux for a 30c tool is highway robbery! I didn't even open it, as soon as I looked at my transmission again I knew it wouldn't fit. Yay mystery tool. It was actually a little long and a little too fat in the area that should fit perfectly into the bearing but I was able to center it based on the taper of the tool and the inside center spot thing. Yeah that was an awesome explanation, live with it.
I'm still astonished the random tool I grabbed for s&g / hail Mary actually worked.
I replaced some hardware on the engine with sexy black hex bolts. I will be doing more of this as time goes on but I was tired.
derp. Oya pics oritdidnthappenrite?
Catchcan fittings, stock pcv block (newfangled ruvber expansion plug test v0.1?) and sandwich. There is a turbo oil restrictor tee'd in here before the oil pressure sender which ill have to figure out how to datalog. Installed some of the hardware i have. Maybe I'll make a kit if people likey. Distributor bolts and cap bolts. And water inlet bolts. PP installed Miraculous Clutch Alignment Tool My clutch..pretty decent for organic fullface. Flywheel torqued and cleaned Even hand installed bolts in order. Put arp lube where the under cap would rest on flywheel as well as bolt. Arp instrictions and lube, threadlocker Perfecf sized socket for installing pilot bearing Double checking size New and old Only three things should ever go in a Honda Manual, this. Or this. Or this! So dirty eww. Little better. New seal installed.
So I just looked it up and apparently the clutch (just disc) I have is like $25 online..pretty impressive considering.. I drove it for 2 years, wasn't always the nicest, 1 year was boosted, engaged nice.. and compared to the "stock" clutch in my buddy's car I drove it was 100x better (though the PP had a bit to do with it too)
it's a bit frustrating though when in probably <2weeks I'll have a new clutch.. I think I'll get that, a LSD, maybe some other stuff (carbon syncros)? And decide if I wanna mix/match any gears from either cable tranny I have. I know one is from the b17, the other is notI think it's from a b18a1 in a da.
now which LSD should I get
So apparently I actually did have a VTEC engine side harness! Pulled the non-vtec one out of the car.
the VTEC harness has a couple plugs cut off.. I was going thru it thinking man some of the wires are thin thinking about repinning the whole harness..then I looked at my non-vtec harness and noticed the wires are thicker..by quite a bit. At least the insulation is, it's a big enough difference that I definitely think they are a different gauge.
I wanted to replace as many connectors as I can with nicer ones, maybe milspec or something, considering the rywire milspec harness, it honestly seems fairly priced being someone who does wiring for a living..! Though I think I'd rather do my own custom one cuz I can do neat things.
so I have a few alts, the one off the b18b1 was dying, there's a nice looking champion reman (I should really have them all tested) that's clean I wanted to use but it ft urns out its obd0 I think. So I was thinking damn I'll need a plug or just forget it and use the one on the b17 (that looks meh) or the b18b1 one that was suckling.
Then I found a plug! And then I found a vtec engine side harness. A few plugs were cut nothing that I can't repair easy though. Now I don't have to wait for one. I repinned the vtec solenoid wire with 14ga red wire and seal ed it up.
I looked at my non vtec harness to check at plug pin and I noticed the wires in that one atndre a heavier gauge! I think it may be a bit newer of a harness but it's still weird. I'll probably try and reuse some plugs off the heavier non vtec harness at least for ones I don't repinn. Need some pins now.
New longer turbo line. Oldmwas bit short new is now a bit long with the datalog tee and restrictor Cooler sandwhich Which alt shoild I use? Oh snap! Vtec engine harness All obd0! Das vted plug rewired. Das vtec plug 14g wire
Weather was beautiful yesterday but was a slow day I guess just didn't have a ton of motivation for some reason. I did get some small stuff done.
transmission is on. IM is on. Swapped throttle body from b18 because its bigger and has map on it.
painted valve cover, turbo manifold and turbo hot side with high temp paint for a refreshed look. Valve cover will have more costs of other paint tho and maybe detailing on the letters. Will have to get pics of that the vc in the pics is the other one.
I'm really ******* sore. Ow. I need a team mate or a friend who's into cads or something. Way too much to do all alone. Even setting up the hoist alone is rough let alone moving motors, on grass..not so bad on concrete or even asphalt.
sell. .******* *******
****
todo
replace crank pully
do wiring
do hose and vacation routing
maybe install adjustable cam gears
check/set valve lash
fuel pump install and wiring
newith brales install.
More but I'm too tired 2 think
Getting rdy Fkd alt mount..will tell story later Chipped pully have2 replace Long pp flywheel bolts? They r oem so.. Open wide..and eat it.. Nomnom All in #484 installed into the hatch
I was thinking and my intermediate shaft only leaked when I tipped the transmission that way, heh, never leaked in the car, at least one side got a new seal lol. Old one looked meh anyway.
driverside mount on the b17 was wrong engine wasn't sitting right at all .. pulled the one off my b18 in order for it to fit right. Fits better..
had to grab a hacura crankshaft tool. First one I got wouldn't go deep enough into the b18's crank pully because it was flat..was also cheaper than the second..second fit..the b17 would've worked with either. I don't have a pic of the first one I got. Fortunately there's a part store only 5min ish from me.
looks better now that it's lined up better. I snapped the welded nut on the rear engine/Trans mount ..can't find it either..do have a spare one I could put on..my torque mounts are fkd too.
since I had to take everything apart to swap mounts I took the timing belt off..I was going to throw my brand new one on but the one on there was Honda and looks great. The aftermarket new belt had more square ridges. I have another Honda belt I was able to compare to and the contrast helped seal the deal.
I also took my UR cam gears off the other b17's cams and threw em on.
Hatch blows waterpump seal, engine already fkd, OK I get b17..
now..Sedan blows waterpump seal..! What the **** is with my luck? Just did all new fluids on the Sedan including genuine ATF and I get this..
Fortunately I did buy a new TB/waterpump kit for this car a bit ago. Not excited tearing into it with AC. Honestly don't want to tear into it until the hatch is running but I don't know how long it'll last - I don't have a choice but to drive it like this for now. Fortunately it's not GUSHING like the hatch was..definitely leaking though, didn't 100% scope it out but I don't see it coming from anywhere else.
Also forgot the sedan didn't have a maintenance free battery, forgot to water it..filled it now but think it's hooped. I've had to boost everyday.
I want to get a better battery setup for the hatch anyway, might just put the hatch battery in the sedan, not sure.
hatch is close to running. My VTEC harness was cut in a few places and the tape was cracking and falling off so..I tore the whole thing apart...haha..yeah I know, I do things most wouldnt even consider touching. But remember automotive wiring is my business!
So, I'll be going through the harness, relooming it, fixing any cuts, adding my new VTEC plug..etc..
I may go so far as to add some milspec goodness but I don't think the car (or my wallet) is ready for that and might even just order a rywire or something - from someone who does wiring, their harness is good value. I would honestly probably charge more for building a full custom milspec harness!
B18 injector hole bigger Pr3/b17/b16 injector hole smaller..had to bore out my injector holes for my injectors to fit!
Steel lines
Starting to look like an engine..
I made teh ferrofluidz
Drain plug from Auto Trans..ew..used non-Honda at two years ago and like 25,000km..will see how the Honda fairs.
One is Canadian, one is Japanese, never noticed this before.
Guess which is which?
cha ching! Actually the ATF came free with the AEM pipe..Can't complain. I did buy the mtf tho. $10 CAD per liter/quart.
So..was looking @rockauto for clutch kits..saw an exedy stage 3 for $50..I have a feeling it's a mistake..well I know it is..but it clearly says "Includes Clutch Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc Assembly, Flywheel, Cover Bolt, Flywheel Bolt; High Performance Stage 3: Hyper Single"
Probably just threw $50 away (I think I'll get the tool, pilot and throw out bearings which are still for that high performance clutch and cheaper than anything local) but I'm going to try and hold them to it, technically false advertising right?
Let's see how this plays out..haha..! I'm already regretting it, I know it won't work out but it's worth a shot.
Wasn't able to really get her to fire yet..it snowed like a foot..so..so much for getting it running before my working outside window is done. Need to rent a garage.
it dumped a bunch of snow and got super cold.. finally warmed up a bit..got her to fire a few times.. got it fully warmed up once even.. but it keeps dying then won't fire again. I think it may have to do with a ground at g101 but not sure. Would have to be a signal ground if so.
so frustrated I can't get her to fire right .. so close..
just need to get her to fire
run vtec wires (already pinned at ecu)
install front shocks and axles
Fill tranny
install new brakes
bleed brakes
install shifter
Install charge piping
that's about it!
I need help
I need some dedicated Honda friends
I kept thinking it was a wiring issue causing it not to fire...especially since the connector at g101 broke off but I fixed it up and it ran and died and was pissing me off..also thought maybe my tbelt was off somewherè or something. Double checked that and it was fine..set my cams to +2/-2 for now, hoping less overlap will be good for turbo but I've also read the opposite..only a dyno will know for sure.
Was having a hard time doing the simple thing, by that I mean checking for spark and fuel injector pulse, because I didn't have anyone to crank it over while I checked. I was damn near tempted to throw one of my remote starters in for the purpose! Because of this I was tearing into my dizzy to check it..then..
I had a client come by for to get his iDatalink/iDataStart BM1 BMW remote starter programmed (we're an official iDatalink dealer) and he offered to help..said he didn't know much about cars but the first thing he did was ask for a spare plug...handed him one and he knew to ground it and look for spark..cool!
so spark on 1..2..3...4...good..hook up multimeter to fuel injectors...get pulse..OK ****. Took a minute and reprogrammed his remote start and sent hIm on his way.
at this point the only reasons it won't fire are pretty much:
- no compression
- camshafts vs crankshaft timing off
- sparkplug wires in wrong order
- no fuel tank, clogged lines or filter
- bad injectors
Already checked the first 3 obviously and tank he injectors are kinda crappy but worked in the b18b1 fine (440cc racetronix), and I had already put 7L in it when I put the motor in (I was almost out but the b18b1 was still starting fine when it was removed) .. I said **** it, it's the only thing that makes sense so I walked over to the gas station (which is really close) and got another 10L of 94 octane (ugh gas jumped 20c per L recently..! That's like $1/quart extra..was 90-95.9c per L for regular, now it's 1.20-1.259 for regular and like 1.469ish for 94 octane) I like it when it's $1/liter or less..10 bux for 10 liters is and good for aboit 100km..when it jumps suddenly 10 bux is 8 liters and youreally only good for 80 but you're thinking you put in enough for 100km and run out
ugh so yeah it runs now.. doesn't sound perfect yet but needs some work..
sealed up the valve cover last night, torqued down two opposing corner bolts, but it still filled the spark plug bores, ew.
got the codes down to just 22 for the vtec and was able to Rev it up to almost 6000rpm..not super easily but it was dumping in fuel, like 12-11 afr at idle. This is using the stock ECU for the motor. Then she threw 3 and 41 as well..might need different distributor or something.
tried my chipped ecu with the chip from the b18 again, it had started it before fine and is set for these injectors.. was trying to crank it and was looking at it as it started sparking and smoking. ****! another one bites the dust. I have bad luck with these ECUs.
I already ordered two zif sockets from digikey (arrived overnight! In Canada no less!) And desoldered the eeprom from the chipped p61. One pin was a b*tch and broke but I'm still gonna throw this in my chip burner and read/dump the ROM off it.
I soldered in the ZIF, desoldered J12 and soldered in the pin header for data logging.
Upon trying the ECU, it gives solid CEL so I need to go back and check my soldering.
I went to install my axles..before putting the motor in I compared the two half shafts I had choosing the one with the better bearing and dust cover which was the one from the B17. I didn't notice the ends were different..! Apparently the DA half shaft is female and DC is male. I didn't reallywant to go pull it off (snow on ground, cold, under car) even though it's only 3 bolts (also because the other ones bearing didn't feel as smooth and the dust cover got fkd) and one of the B17s came with some axles..NAPA apparently..we'll see how it goes - if it's no good (seems fine from my inspection) I'll pull the half and swap in my b18 driverside. Used the old passenger side - no reason not to, bought them new only a year ago.
So one da and one DC axle yay. Went to drain tranny (even though most had come out already) and it came out white and frothy..water must've got in while the Trans was out..drained it all out, "flushed" it through a bit with some HONDA ATF then filled it with Honda MTF until it was das fullen.
Got the new shifter installed..was finally able to tap the pin out with a torch..this is after cutting the linkage off and grinding the linkage knuckle off..was gonna use a bolt instead of the bitch pin but it had too much play. Had a good pin that came with the shifter so I tapped it in..
The ebay shortshift I got was supposedly for both Civic and Integra when I ordered it I didn't know they were different sizes (d vs b shifter) so it never really fit right and I out a bunch of washers in but still was sloppy..even with es bushings. Gsr came with red es I had black no sense in swapping them..shifter is super tight now though so I'm happy..only,slop is inside transmission.
just have to do shocks brakes some plumbing a few wires wee
- replace orings on #1 and #2 injectors
- install front ToKiCo blues and neuspeed springs
- install new brakes
- finish plumbing stainless brake lines
- bleed brakes with 600° fluid
- wire vtec solenoid and sensor, well, the ecu harness was prepinned ages ago for vtec so just have to run wires thru firewall and solder onto wires from ecu
- install new 140a breaker for sound system/inverter (stole the one I had for the sedan so got a new one)
- put wheels on
- cinch exhaust pipe down
- put intake pipe on (after n/a test drive)
- plug in new socketed p61 hope it works this time (didn't first time, solid cel, resoldered joints)
- build b17 basemap
- see how it revs ignition wise..tried swapping wires..might have an iffy dizzy..the only other vtec dizzy I have is almost gutted.. have a bunch of non vtec I can steal guts from..
- install aeromotive fuel pump with new 10GA wiring and cool clear light up relay
- install some new interior led lighting I got
- considering installing a remote start/security system..I want to use the new ft-dc3 but they haven't officially released manual support nor the new gear stick sensor so I don't know if it'll work..don't really want to use a 7200 but I could. Still highly debating this (eventual Race car) .. I will probably design a harness/method where I can easily plug/unplug the system as needed. Bonus is dc3 and 7200 both have turbo timers and do programmable pulsed output. Could also use the system as part of a push start thing. Was also considering building my own..might get a speeduino and try that.
I can't think of much else. Really just need to do dampers brakes wheels then I can take er around block at least.
so close I can't wait..really can't wait to enjoy the new tightness of my shifter..like wow its tight.
Shifter tightness fix..spring wot!
harness reloomed
bigass protection diode on g101
got the "clutch kit" I ordered..no clutch..big surprise..rock auto said no so far..still gonna try and fight but who knows, still paid less for the bearings than locally for generic anyway so no biggie. Plus I got exedy Stickers!
desoldered the stock eeprom and added socket
picked up a dso quad portable scope for my car haxxing
for anyone who doesn't believe that there is factory chipped ecus...look at that factory solder job.
I has wrong throttle thingy..gotta switch
redid g101
I really could use some Honda/car friends. Man it gets discouraging doing this by myself, in the dark, in the cold, in the snow, outside, alone.
got the left shock on..my tie rod and lower ball joint won't thread on think they got bashed too much which sucks cuz they're only a year old..hope I don't have to use the ones I got for the sedan but..if I have to I will.
still love shifter feel..**** I just wanna drive it..
I found a fully pinned obd2 splitter not even hooked up under the dash of a clients vehicle (where I was instructed to remove all extra wiring for a RS)
My brakes came with the 23t not 25t bracket so I need to shim them.
Have like 1.3mm washers that fit good but I'm not 100% satisfied. Will pick up some 1mm exactly.
otherwise brakes are on and fit with new lines. Had to grind the centering posts for the banjo bolt on the calipers for the aftermarket lines to fit.
all I need to do for a test drive up and down the alley:
install those 1.3mmish spacers on driverside for now they're on pass already
bleed brakes
torque axle nuts
torque shock mounts
Put front wheels on, torque
put car on ground
Install catchcan lines
go for quick test spin (na)
otherwise I still need to:
test new chipped ecu
make baseman
wire vtec to ecu
vacuum waste gate and bov
install intake pipe
Plug in speed sensor
fix reverse switch (plug ripped out when I pulled b18)
10-19-2017, 10:56 PM
Re: Rally Hatch build thread
