Apparently I need a low profile jack now..I was hoping the front wouldn't dip too much but...oh well

she's on the ground. Went around the block. Engine really struggled, think this dizzy is fkd gonna rebuild one tonight I think.

 

Still have to install catch can.. it's making some smoke but I think that's just my turbo..I'm hoping it's getting enough flow now with the restriction..I might move it..still have to wire in the turbo oil pressure sender to know for sure.

still have to wire vtec to ecu..plug in speed sensor..check gauge coolant sender..check over everything else..plug in chipped ecu hope it reads chip this time, one pin is a little sketchy as it was a rough desoder might have tp jump it, think its just a gnd pin.

made my "base" map last night..based off a b16 I guess since there wasn't any b17 basemaps in eCtune.

wheels roll. Brakes seem good. Clutch seems good. Gears shift good. Didn't hear any weird noises or anything. So just have to get the engine running good, put my headlights back in and plate on..!!

should have it back on the road this weekend hopefully, will see how base tuning goes and how fixing the dizzy goes.

I'm guessing it's dizzy..it like fights trying to Rev up sometimes..I had it floored earlier and it was only doing 800rpm, wouldn't raise, 10.5AFR...again still stock ecu so tons of fuel being added plus wrong map sensor.

starting to get exxcited

 

Tonight I think I'm gonna pull the dizzy aND grab a few spares and swap some parts tonight see if it helps

 

Swapped in non vtec dizzy (cut leg)..ran worse..same code...swapped in dizzy from my b18 (worked OK)
​​​​​​ and it ran a bit better..

I was thinking of buying a reman dizzy but the parts store had none..I cave in did buy new NGK blues, new made in japan rotor, made in japan cap and new plugs (same ones i was rinning in the b18 already 4554 or something.. non resistor racing coper ngk). $200 more down the drain! Really though, it was all stuff I probably should have already picked up..

now another injector has started leaking..stupid orings..gotta fix that..

the only thing holding me back from driving it is how the engine is running

gotta work dem bugs out..the few times it HAS wanted to rev up and go, it's sounded pretty good.

only once did I get to 8k rpm..otherwise it was struggling to hit 6k (floored).. when I took it around the block it was up and down by the end I was flooring it and it was at 500rpm.

I did get the first (factory chipped) ecu working. Also chipped the second p61, it needs a fix though..I need a better soldering iron for inside..my butane is great for wiring and most car stuff but sometimes a but hot for circuit boards..I screwed one pad on the first p61 and a trace...on the second so far according to my tests one connection is bad I think I screwed another pad..kind of annoying..I've chipped quite a few ecus..had lots of bad luck with a bunch too..like the chipped one I was running in the b18 smoked itself while testing the b17..dunno why..looked like some metal shavings maybe fell in..but it just kinda spontaneously sparked, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it..

I tested my coil..ohms pass. Tested my ICM and it's connections to the ecu and grounds, all pass.

I did get ******* ZAPPED by the first dizzy, which was the nicest looking one with a cap that basically looked new other than some normal terminal wear, so the cap or a wire must have been leaking some spark. I tried other plug wires that came with the motor, didn't seem to help too much.

it's frustrating enough I was thinking of tearing off my valve cover again to triple check my timing but I must keep reminding myself (unless it jumped mysteriously, unlikely) that when it did go it did run pretty good.

the fuel leak can't be helpful either. Kinda annoyed about that. Anothet lovation of the parts store has new orings but will have to get them tomorrow cuz it's too late now.. unless I have another spare. I did buy an oring kit before but none really fit..was looking at a bunch of orings kits at the parts store today too didn't seem to find one that would work.
​​​​​​
now that I have new cap rotor etc..out of the at least 5 or 6 distributors I have I'm sure there's one with goof sensors..I don't recall if I ever got a code before with the b18 but I wasn't convinced that the dizzy there was 100%..but..the sensors might be fine.. going to have to do more surgery. The only other vtec dizzy I have must be obd2 because it's all one one plug. I have another with only 1 plug but it's missing the 2 larger Guage wires completely which leaves me confused a bit? Maybe it's a d dizzy? I know I have one d dizzy somewhere I think it is at least it came on my b18 with 1 bolt holding it in and kinda rotated sideways like at d dizzy is.

 

Losing my mind here..something is causing an issue and I don't know what it is..

pulled the sensors out of the dizzy from the b18b1 which was working pretty darn good..had a bit of breakup in high boost occasionally but I also had old wires rotor cap but no sensor issues..

put the vtec dizzy back together with a good coil and a hopefully good icm (I have 3 pulled out and they're all significantly different looking) .. the icm did ohm test fine..

put it on with new cap rotor and wires..and the ecu I had working last night was being picky so I went back to stock p61 and it fired right up..sounded smooth as glass at first...gave it a few kicks and it seemed to Rev good..so I'm like, yay!! I run into the house to grab my camera while letting it warm up, come back out and it starts dying and stalled shortly after. Ran for maybe 1min..wouldn't really start after that.

put more gas in to be safe..tried it again..now it won't even start..tried resetting ecu and still won't start.

it's almost like I may be have a loose wire or something but..I know g101 is good..I even ripped out the protection diode I put on it just in case..ecu has good continuity to TDC, CYP, CKP..0.00ohms to ground from g101 to neg post..fuel pump primes..ecu boots..

I'm almost starting to wonder if my injectors are failing..they weren't the greatest to begin with but they worked fine on the b18. The wires on the plugs could be a bit better but the connection seems fine..

double checked various plugs..wiggled wires whIle trying to start..no luck.

 

Not for lack of trying! I know you will figure it out. Can't wait to learn what you find...

 

Okay guys..

I need help. Bad.

​​​​​I've put just about all of my effort for the last month and most of my money (like $3000 easy) on this..neglecting work..partly because I need a working vehicle and the HG on the Sedan is going and it keeps overheating and I can't really keep driving it and I need it to get around to work (run my own automotive installation business, official dealer for iDatalink, compustar, midcity, etc) ..

So..I was getting to my wits end trying to figure out the issue why it isn't running right...

I check the oil..

it's like 3x higher on the stick than it should be..

I didn't put 8L in I'm pretty sure..

drain it..chocolate milk!

when I got the motor, the oil that was in it didn't have any coolant in it really..a tiny bit of water I attributed to moisture condensation ****..

so did the guy who sold it to me really make sure he left dirty oil without coolant in it to fool the buyer?

I've already asked for some money back. I think 250 is fair. He hasnt answered me since i got it though. I would have still bought it, for the same price, even if he said the HG was blown. Anyone wanna know where he parks his teg?

I do have a head gasket here..I would have put it on way before I put the motor in though had I known..I hope nothing else is fucked..

my ONLY other guess is the oil cooler is totally fucked on the inside but I don't think that's too likely..

I really need help..I'm getting to the point where I'm not enjoying working on cars anymore. I was actually in tears last night. I've seriously been thinking of selling it.

I don't really have any friends let alone mechanical or Honda ones .. I'm starting to feel like I'm building a rally car for no reason because I don't even know anyone to navigate or be part of the team..

I don't even know what to ******* do.

I do have a head gasket..and tools..and..****..I can't even afford more oil or coolant after spending 200 on my ignition **** last night.

****! ******* ******* piece of ****..he was all talking like he wanted to be part of my rally crew went I went to get the motor and now he won't talk to me. I should have known to pull the head when he didn't answer. Everything else looked great even compression.












seriously though..I need help..in any way...emotional support...parts...come help..join my team..sponsor my team..lol..

So I really get to pull the head now? Like..this makes me want to use the nice head I just clea​​​​​ned up but it needs new style LMAs and new valves and springs and retainers couldn't hurt either.

 

******* guy is like oh I had no problems you got a good deal the dizzy Trans and ecu are worth more than you paid blah blah blah why would I have kept it for 2 years tripping on it..

then he says he should charge me more for the headache he got because my girlfriend was having a panic attack while we were loading up (anxiety issues) .. make fun of someone's mental health issues..real mature..

 

I guess there was about 5.5-6l drained from the oil pan and 1L coolant from rad, 1L is from head and block maybe 3l total coolant .. so some prob went over..

 

 

New hg installed. Head torqued down. Thought about using the head I cleaned up but I'm gonna finish buildng it first.

gotta put cams back in, timing belt, valve cover, etc.,like 1-2 more hours then I can start er again

 

Good luck, hopefully that fixes your problem!

 

It fuvking better! Will know tonight .

 

You could pressure test without running the engine. Leave the oil plug out, fill the cooling system and put under pressure, see if any comes out through the oil pan. If that's OK, fill up with oil and run.

 

Yeah I don't have a pressure tester..

I may grab a leak down test adapter and a pressure tester tomorrow though to be sure before I run it maybe

pretty sure it was the hg tho, there was oil and coolant between the head/block and on the gasket itself..no obvious breaks in the gasket or anything but Imy pretty sure it was leaking. There's 3 spots on the block that are like little holes, about 2cm deep and wide circle, they don't lead anywhere or take bolts just little dips and 2/3 had oil in them and the gasket should have sealed it right

p.o. swears it was running/ fine. I really doubt I blew it without it ever seeing boost, let alone even 1 kilometer of "mileage" (always thoughtit was funny that we still call it mileage even if itshe in kms, kilometerage?) Or red line or even fully warmed up. It got mostly warmed up and a few no loan revs to 6k but it struggled most of the time..maybe 10-10-15min running time total over 2 weeks no more than 5min at a time.

the hg that was on there was identical to my replacement so not oem (unless it happens to look 100% identical)

cams had definitely been out before judging by sealant

one good thing is that the inside of the motor looks amazing! This engine is almost as clean inside as the one I cleaned! In fact, the valves have less build up than the ones from the other head and that's after I cleaned the first ones with a bench grinder. Was considering using the head I cleaned up but I want to put new valves retainers springs etc in it beforehand and this one looked great..while the first b17 had lots of gunk on the Pistons and like 1-2mm of caked on carbon on each valve..yes 1-2 MM! Basically turned my dished valves into flat or convex! But the second b17 just had a light layer, just darkened pretty much..almost worries me how clean...coolant does clean stuff lol..

 

I'm terrified


​​​​​​new hg in
all together
just have to start it

and I don't want to

because I'm scared
and I have bad luck
and ****

 

Well it didn't wanna run then did then didn't...played around with some ecu swapping and it actually fired best on a stock p06..then I burnt a p06 map and it didn't go..made me wonder about some things..like whether the ectune fuel multiplier was off or something even though that one was stock..?
weirdness. . I Think My 3bar Might Be Done It Was rea ding 3v at atmospheric which should be a out like 1.7v. Swapped the stock back on for now tbh that map sensor wasnt lining up to its supposed specs even with the b18 although I was able to hack my b18 map to make it sorta work..but it still didn't seem right .. might try it again once I get it running better on the stock one or I may just order a better one.

​​​​​once I can data log proper Im sure IL be able to get er running decent..my data log cable isn't working right and the second one I ordered never worked now that I pulled em both apart I think know why (different ftdi chips) think the second might be rs232 instead of ttl

 

I wish I understood how the engine management stuff worked...

 

Maybe it's partly because I spent many years writing software and working with computers but learning automotive mechanics in general didn't seem too huge to me, I didn't really get into working on cars until I was in my 20s (in my early 3s now), I definitely didn't know what an ECU was or how an engine worked but I drove my 4runner into a puddle and hydrolocked it..didn't know to pull the plugs (yes, I was THAT stupid) and tried to clutch start it..broke 2 rods..only know that because I towed it home, took the motor apart and figured it out.

Service manuals help a lot (factory service manual / helms) and the Honda ones actually have a full flowchart and diagram on how the whole PGM-FI system works.

Engine management just boils down to a computer that knows mostly how to run your engine and reads your sensors for the rest of the info.

playing around with some of the tuning apps out there even if you're not actually tuning something can help you understand how it all works too I'm sure. Plus you can always ask questions on ht.

 

F*cking wiring issues..suddenly my tps was locked at 5v thought I blew that up too..grabbed a new tb, was still 5v, wiggled wires, fixed.

Wonder if maybe that was part of my map problem, will have to recheck.

I've had an odd, ongoing issue where I get a code 8 if I stay KOEO for like 15sec or more, it happened with the b18b1 and this is a new ecu. I'm pretty sure I got it when I had the unmodified b17 dizzy on too but can't say for certain. I swapped the guts from the b18b dizzy so it could be that..or wiring..

I reloomed my engine harness and hoped I wouldn't have issues, it was crusty and dirty. Better now. I had my ECT sensor showing weird giving code and also preventing it from revving above 2000rpm. I put a new connector on because it was cut at the plug and still no good..traced it..there was a second break in the loom..annoying!

all that's good now through only issue I'm having is my wideband is showing 5v constant too..gotta check some more wiring...wee.

I want a real milspec harness or something.. I may build one...or buy..shrug...rywire is pricy but it's worth it..milspec connectors and stuff ain't cheap.

saw a minty black teg dash at jy today I might jump on it..might also do ek..can't decide..or something else original
​​​​​​

 

Man I'm sore..spent the whole day cleaning and shampooing the whole car. Huge difference. Finally got most of the rest of the glass out.

car smells like gain lol..used it for cleaner in the shampooing machine..glad I had access to one..it would have cost like $80 at the car wash to do what I did.

had a hole in my rad from where my dp rubs it..jb weld yo. Really need to rebuild my do tho..that'll be one of the first things I do after tune.

my knock sensor broke, boo.. $240 at auto value $100 at partsource..haven't checked rock auto yet but I will. . Might get a knocksense or safeguard...had to disable knock in the ecu..not a huge deal but I did want to be able to log any events even if it doesn't retard past 5k or at wot afaik

still having a random intermittent issue..will get solid cel..I'd think ecu but a second ecu behaves the same. Need to recheck some grounds

new fuel pump is installed with 8ga leads from the battery and it's own dedicated new fuel relay under hood. Got a cool clear I(see-thru) relay with a built-in fuse, and led. Also ran a cat5 cable for status LEDs..need to get some multi-colors or something - monitor ignition, whether the relay switch side fuse is good, whether the ecu is commanding Fp ground, whether the relay is on or off and whether there's 12v on the draw did eof the relay...instant diagnosis..lol..if a certain led doesn't light up or is wrong color I'll know what where is wrong

need to rewire my wide band too I think ..not reading 100% accurate at ecu although I may also do digital logging now too although I still want the analog accurate for my bt gauges

but it sounds reaalllyreally nice now..still have to tune tune, but she sounds good and no coolant mixing although I think the side of the hg might be leaking a bit should have used some Honda bond of something around the edges

Should be able to take it for the first real test drive tmr. I did briefly hit vtec the other day but was still too rich to stay in vtec..but I hit it. Vtec yo. And yes, I have a Vtecyo light! !

 

Started installing an alarm..cm7200..just about every feature and output will be used..
wanted to use dc3 but the stick shift sensor isn't available yet even to dealers although I do want to be a tester and likely will...shouldn't be too hard to switch brains after anyway.

adding door lock solenoids
will eventually add a hatch pop solenoid for keyless hatch opening
defrost turns on if under certain temp
hatch, hood, doors monitored for entry
will probably add a proximity sensor eventually
ft-Das detects motion (prevents Mt vehicle from walking off on RS) and tilt and shock
starter kill
ignition kill
fuel pump kill
remote starter
ventilation fans will eventually turn on above a certain temp (eventually want to redo the HVAC with touchscreen but need to decide on a final dash)
Keyless entry with driver priority unlock
will probably add rps so I can knock on my window to control
maybe Bluetooth
probably computational drone
dome light control

also wired it so my headlight turns off on whichever side I'm signalling

https://youtube.com/?m=Jkg65kCPAug

 

I've been using the new ft7000-as. The DAS sensor is pretty damn good, 3 sensors in 1. dual shock, tilt, and forward motion. All that is need is a battery backup and glass sensor.

 

​​​​​the 7000as is equivalent to a 7200 w/security package, I just only stock 7200s. If you want those items, you can order them from us (official dealer) if you wish, not sure if I can save you anything but if I can I'm happy to try.

I only have 703 remotes and a 1wam antenna right now so I can't test it but it's installed. Not worried about testing - installing remote starts and alarms is my business but it'd be nice to use it sooner than later, lol. Still need to grab a DAS from the warehouse too.

Got it mostly working..my p61 was having issues reading chip (was thinking it could have been something else but I'm more confident in that now) .. only have 2 chips left, need to order more..

tried adding vtec to my p06 at 6am but I must have fucked up as now it throws the BARO code (wtf!) And an automatic transmission code...then I tried the p61 again, it worked..I've checked the solder joints..only joints I did were at the eeprom as it was factory chipped...though I've chipped quite a few with no real issues..might be my chip is going or a bad joint or..thought it was a bad ground..

some of my grounds weren't testing continuity to ground, because I had installed a protective diode in g101 (was thinking extra protection in case of reverse polarity..) not sure it actually caused issues but I think my diode went bad or something, still have to test it...removed it..the main fuse would blow pretty quick on a revpol boost anyway..

I will have to install some diodes elsewhere though, my headlight switch-off signal thing isn't completely killing my headlights so they're probably ground leaking to the high beams (or lows when highs are on).. I gotta draw out the whole diagram of the system here and also will be adding a feature where my LED window washers alternate with each respective (l/r) signal.

I pulled the plate off the sedan last night and put it on the hatch. Took it around the block a few times, feels OK. Don't notice any less torque than the b18b yet but I haven't really got on it.

VTEC is not engaging properly..it will kick on and immediately turn off..not sure if it's still too rich and bogging down the rpms everytime it engages or if it's something else. Data log suggests that /may/ be a possibility but it seems to be activating the solenoid and reading the vtp fine as well as switching maps.

​Will test the solenoid now.​​​ No CEL, good oil pressure @ block port, VSS is good, tach is good, ecu is engaging it as I said, but immediately (the next frame or second next frame in most instances of the log, although there was one where it activated for like 4 frames, each frame being approx 15-30ms of time) disengaged. Poo.

​​​​​

 

So..the solenoid clicks..screen was clean when I took it off before..

gonna test some ecu stuff next - disable vtp check, set vtec to disengage 1000rpm lower instead of 500 and work on my fuelling so it's not so rich.

I also forgot you have to modify the ecu for the ELD wb02 thing..was wondering why it wouldn't read under 1v. Will do that now too.