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Just found another full assembled runninv b17 (axles, Trans, ecu, dizzy, etc) for less than the one I just grabbed that was split apart...
I was concerned going b17 with not having a spare block (race car) and now I don't think I'll have to worry as much.
I'm gonna go check it out tomorrow and probably drop a deposit. Then, since it's running, I'll drop it straight in the hatch for now and drive it for a bit, then I'll build the other one up i thinks.
either way for the price and how rare these are..just a b16 head goes for more around here usually.
Christ, bro. How many fuggin' blocks are you going to have? Are you going to store it in your car with the other three?
JK. I'm doing the same thing with suspension parts right now.
haha there was only two in the other car, third was the D under the hood..! And there's none in there now besides the one under the hood. Took the b18 out and the b17 is on my engine stand.
As for suspension, I might get there too haha..just got a set of Tokico Blues w/nuespeed springs..there's a set of buddy club race coil overs for sale locally too..I definitely don't want to drop though, got the tokicos cuz they're off a DA, so even though they are lowering springs, the shocks are longer..
Prelude brakes still not here..it's thanksgiving weekend in Canada, probably won't see them till Tuesday.
So.. I decided to pull the cover of the p61 I got with the b17.
It has the knock board, great, was hoping to see that if just for some extra logging fun (though I think I'll be using something like a j&s eventually)
It also is factory chipped. That's right, she's running off a stock external eeprom. So, I just have to swap that with a socket and I'm good. And remove j12. I will rip/archive the BIN off the stock eeprom and post it if anyone wants.
so not only rare by being a p61, but even more rare with factory chip.
again, my motor is #1700023 and the service manuals I've read only show 20xxx for USA and 27xxxx for Canada... so Def early.
I forgot to post pics and mention that I had the b17 head decked and tanked as well as getting my 11lb flywheel shined up.
0.007 off flywheel and they estimated only 0.006 off the head which is about 0.1 compressing bump acording to zealworks.
just need new valve seals and lma's for the head. Debating new valves too, I cleaned them up decent, only some stuff left on the faces..guess it's a free compression bump.
the guy with the second b17 is interested in the possibility of being my co-driver. I said, come throw your b17 in with me and we'll see if we can work together, if not I'll pay you for it..if so well, it's for the team..!
had a few people in mind but he's the first who already knows/understands rally..will have to see if I can trust him with my life!
may go look at it tonight or tomorrow/sunday for sure..hopefully can have that one swapped in by next weekend. Will have to find another freeze plug for the pcv breather cuz I just used the one that came with my endyn kit on this b17..
Okie couldn't drive past the performance shop twice this morning without stopping in.
ordered arp flywheel bolts.
bought some stainless brake lines for the last bit that's rubber
guy in the store didn't want to look up the fitting I needed for Honda couldn't remember it was 10mm inverted female flare
Googled it, went back in, he was gonna check me out and I was like no thx I'll deal with someone else..couldn't do a 2sec Google with me..ugh!
should be picking up the second b17 tonight.
brakes still aren't here. Tracking now says next week. 2 to 8 business days my ***.. funny my tablet just autocorrected 'days' to 'delays'
I run a custom car audio / electronics business..remote start season is coming, so I bought $5000 in stock.
If you want to buy one PM me! If you're local I can install
and .. oops! I did it again...
now it's in the front seat. Couldn't fit a long block in the back seat, only the front.
I now have b17 #1700023 and b17 #1700485 (I think that's the # of the second). #23 has a factory chipped ECU, #485's isn't chipped.
Tomorrow I'll finish pulling the b18, the bitch pin wouldn't come out so I'm cutting the shifter off I guess, couldn'tcut it out with the Dremel, didn't have the angle grinder at the time..gonna try and not **** the linkage up but might have to replace it.
b17 soon! Vtec yay..boost yay..gonna order a new ebay turbo soon ithink
Our systems are "a la carte". You buy the system and then you can optionally add 1way remotes (the system alone will work with OEM remote in many newer vehicles, but that's not something that will work on an EG/EK though, too old, you'd need remotes), 2way remotes, smartphone control.
From there you can add the security package which comes with the FT-DAS sensor and a siren. If you have a manual vehicle I generally recommend the security package as manuals require the DAS sensor anyway to ensure the vehicle doesn't move when it's trying to start.
I'm not sure about rules for posting any pricing or anything as I'm not a sponsor for HT (yet..?) I'm not sure it's smart for me to post here. Again, feel free to PM me if you want to discuss further.
now to go get this b17 out of my front seat before I permanently destroy the springs on the sedan..lol..
easiest way to Lower your civic:
buy a bunch of engines and leave them inside the car for a while. Take em out later,lowered.
pads look nice. Rotors look nice, huge seeming even though they're only about 1 inch bigger. Will post pics later.
what I'm really happy to see is, the calipers are actually Honda OEM remann'd with nice a red powder coating! I wasn't sure if they'd be some aftermarket hack or not.
I have everything I need to swap this second b17 in and get the car back running with new brakes and suspension, will have a busy weekend.
actually I still need a 34.3ish mm frost plug for the block so I can use my catch can.
thanks bud, welcome to HT! Comments like this just motivate me more. Glad people can recognize the effort even though the outside (bodywork etc) is still untouched and rusty.
Engine is out of car. Kinda wrecked the passenger seat. Oops.
some of the bolts are rusty I had to grind off one of the IM support bolts. Oh well, I don't like that bracket anyway, I don't think it's super necessary and it takes up lots of space and makes it harder to get the IM off
gotta cut the shifter off my car too my bitch pin is fucked. Saw a nice new system someone made on ebay and emailed to order one bit pricy but looks nice haven't seen a response yet if I don't get one soon I'm gonna just make my own bracket somehow, it's pretty simple design anyway I could duplicate it with the right machining tools.
couldn't for the ******* life of me find a 555-104 (Dorman part # for a 34.3mm freeze plug) locally and none of the part shops would order it nor could they find one that's work. I went back to a different location of the same chain (already knowing that none of the shops had one) hoping that the older store would maybe have a bin of them..
btw if you're not up to date this plug goes in the back of older b series (obd1 iirc) blocks that have the stock breather box when you remove it. I had one plug that came with my endyn catch can kit but used it on the first b17 i got already..
just before giving up the clerk suggested this "expansion plug"..it's a rubber plug, perfect size and deep enough, has a bolt going through it to squish and expand the rubber. Even without expansion, I had to tap it in with rubber mallet. Tightened it up a bit, I think this will work pretty well. It says to install dry and not use sealant, I have no idea if it will seal properly / not leak oil. I suspect it will work perfectly but I will monitor it.
will post pics of the plug, it's cool. Also could potentially remove it unlike the freeze plug. As its not being used as a frost plug, and any pressure in the block will be relieved thru my can, should work fine. I'm a touch worried about the rubber on it and how long it will last but this engine will be monitored and only used until the other one is built (which already has the frost plug permatex'd in)
While my motor is out I plan on taking the opportunity to shave and tuck my bay a bit. Not much, more cleaning up in the interest of easy maintenance and engine swaps
I picked up Ss Braided brake line to replace the rubber spot as well as Ss braided clutch line. Arp flywheel bolts.
I hate when you try to do a budget build and just lines and hardware costs more than anything else. I spent like 250$ on bolts, hardware, stainless lines in the last 3 days!
Should hopefully have the second b17 running in the car in the next week.
things needed:
- new shift linkage or something
- 28pin dip socket for p61 (or could use one of my current ecus I do have one vtec modded, none have knock board tho)
- new plug for knock sensor..need vtec plugs too I think.
things wanted:
- new snail
- oil temp sender for dlog
things have/doing:
- powerstop z26 extreme full brake kit
- 11lb act flywheel
- tokico blues and nueuspeed springs
- b17, obvs
should be almost a different car next week, brand new bigger brakes, new suspension, new engine.
Engine in front seat Free lowering! Powerstop rotor Powerstop vs old teg rotor Install guide Lube, not quite enough well just barelt Da pads, supposed to be good to 1500f Back of pads Powerstop powdercoated remanned calliper (honda yo) Powerstop prelude drilled slotted rotor vs perfectstop blank integra rotor Side specific! With caliper Prelude/97-0ITR caliper vs Teg(ls or 96 jdm itr) caliper Got 18" lines, stock is 24, will have to exchange. Box for the perfect stop rotor Prelude/97-01itr caliper vs standard teg caliprr (or 96 jdm itr)
So I pulled the plugs on the second b17 I picked up for dirt bag cheap.. #1700485 I think or 484 will have to double check and take more pics.
Took me a good hour of fighting to get the dam cable trans off .. but it's off! Pressure plate looks good. Will use my 11lb flywheel, not sure which clutch yet, the one from the ls was great but Def not née might order one depending on what's avail local and depending on what the rest looks like. I really liked the clutch in the ls and the pp wasn't too stiff..p.o. of motor said this plate was stiff but he was in the gsr with cablecable linkage.
I figured I should compression test it before just dropping it in so I grabbed some jumper cables and (don't try this at home, lol) with the motor hanging off hoist/resting on tirea, turned it over.. at first I was pretty frustrated expecting good resultstuff especially with no manifold or tb to have to hold open...got exactly 150 psi on all 4.. was kinda mad actually. I even grabbed my jump starter to supplement the battery I was using, seemed to be cranking fine..but wouldn't go above 150 +/- 2-3psi on any no matter how long I cranked..
so I tried wet, dumped some oil.. again 150s across the board..well at least that's a good delta...so i go to do it one more time for pics..both batteries dead so I boosted off sedan..cranked way faster and numbers shot up.
1 204
2 197
3 198
4 212
max delta <15psi
n2b in she goes 4nowa,
Spark plugs from b17 #2 #1 204ish psi #2 197ish psi #3 198ish psi #4 wins @ 212ish pdi I didn't even mean tontake this hence how blurry it is but you can kindq see the motor hanging off da stand AEM dryfilter and supposed (havent verified) AEM pipe.
Out! B18b1 in front b17 in back Other b18b First b17..have 4 b's and 1 d. Werking outside in the dark, in the cold and alone. Werking outside in the dark, in the cold and alone. Uh i hope i didn't **** my tranny stuff started pouring iut Werking outside in the dark, in the cold and alone. Werking outside in the dark, in the cold and alone. **** you engine (removal was a bitch) B18b1 coming out of hatch