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Can't for the life of me get more than 2 bolts on the downpipe to the turbo, dunno what's up yet exactly, might need an adjustment or something, I'll figure it out later, but it's basically done.
Did the compliance washer on passenger side, which means that side is 100%.
Adjusted my alignment visually a bit better (still not as close as I can get visually I'm sure)
And....BOOOOOOOSSSTTT!!
Of course, it starts snowing like a **** the night I actually can take it for a test drive..! Main highway in our city was shut down apparently even (according to my Mom).. didn't stop me from taking it for a rip, actually one of the front brakes on the sedan took a **** on my way to the garage today, so I didn't wanna drive it, especially in the snow not wanting to hit the foot brake and totally grenade whatever broke.
Boost boost boost boost boost .. did I say boost?
I must have hit boost cut (3psi) 20x in a 20 minute drive, and I was trying not to!
BOV working perfect, not too loud or too quiet either. Dunno about waste gate so much yet (boost cut) and I haven't plugged the solenoid into the ecu for boost control yet.
I did data log the whole ride, of course. Seems to spool pretty quickly, feels quicker than my buddy's b18b1 turbo 95 eg hatch spool-wise..
*checks datalog* holy duckfucker.
2733 RPM - 3.16psi...I couldn't get even 1psi under 3500 on my buddy's car...
Why it have to snow? I don't has winter tires or 4x114.3 steelies yet lol..
So, looking at a past data log, seems like my average IATs (Naturally Aspirated) before bypassing the coolant lines to the throttle body were 75°C on average, now my IATs (Intercooled Turbo) were around 24°C. I'd guess the data logs ambient temps were within 10°C of each other.
I'll take 40-50°C drop off my IATs any day, and I still plan on using thermal throttle body and intake manifold gaskets.
Tomorrow I'll put the missing washer on the driverside compliance, do the driverside hat bushing, drop the shift linkage and install the sway bar, put the linkage back on then weld the connecting flanges on both halves of the exhaust, bolt them together and adjust my alignment a bit more.
Then I'll plug the boost control solenoid in and do some testing and tuning. Hopefully the snow melts tonight.
I couldn't get the sway bar on..? Didn't seem to want to clear the control arms? Maybe I have wrong sway bar, I mean the Teg I got it off had some EK style **** which was weird enough, it's super close though?
Might try again later, might leave it for now.
Got my alignment way straighter. Got the compliance washer on. Sorta (tenporarily) welded my exhaust together tho I'm gonna cut it and use flanges soon.
So, as I said previously I was pretty sure my waste gate was a fake/replica. After driving around for a bit and hitting boost cut lots (first 3 then 5 then 8psi!) I thought I'd test the WG. Fail. Couldn't even get my compressor to budge it, it leaks past the diaphragm like crazy!
Took it apart, spring is all black (real TS springs are color coded) and the diaphragm looked mishapen. I put it back together with some rtv hoping it'd seal better (don't try this at home! ), didn't seem to work much.
The seller refunded me for it tho, I didn't ask assuming he'd want it back before refunding and I don't want a hole in my exhaust (if I keep the throttle light and recs low I don't overboost) but he offered and is letting me keep it. I have to say, for someone selling replicas (while I don't completely agree with it) he was pretty honest and straight up.
Now I need a real wastegate tho. Car is still really fast at like 30% throttle (any more and I hit boost cut) and I haven't tuned it much yet either, hitting high 11s to 10s in boost, way rich.
My turbo flange weld for the exhaust broke and I rewelded the **** out of it, but tucked up the angle. Probably gonna grab a 90° bend and a new flange and weld it together at my local self service garage, my stick welder sucks, lots.
Last edited by forbiddenera; 12-04-2016 at 10:27 PM.
Haven't posted in a bit.. just fucked up my front end.
Worn summer tires and 40cm (over a foot) of snow isn't good. Yes, I should have had winter tires.
Bent the **** out of a control arm, toasted my passenger fender, hoping it's not much worse than that.
Was going around a corner, understeered off throttle, was able to just get it sideways enough to bounce off the curb. While both passenger side tires hit the curb it looks like the front end took all the damage.
Pretty pissed, my next purchase was going to be winter tires and some steelies so I didn't have to run my SSR'a in winter. Had steelies on the rear (haven't done the 4x114.3 on the rear yet) but the pass SSR is badly rashed in 2 spots, dunno how bent it is, doesn't look too bad, if this wasn't a forged wheel I'm sure it would've broke.
Was (barely) able to drive it to my destination 3 blocks away.
Anyway, I got a linear actuator that I'm going to try and hook up to control my wastegate, I have a separate thread for that on the FI forum.
Got a tiny donut so it wouldn't rub and drove it home. From looking, only the control arm seems damaged.
I'll post pics tmr. Happy new year
So I actually fix this about three months ago. About a month after it happened. I had ordered new control arms for the sedan, they were not the greatest but they would have done well for the sit down. After this accident I used one of them on the hatchback and everything seemed to go into pretty good alignment. It drive straight and my alignment is pretty straight as well, the passenger wheel still has a bit of extra positive camber I haven't figured out the exact cause for that yet but I was able to fix it better than I thought I would be able to with less work than I thought it would need. The fender is still f*****.
I also haven't been able to data log for a while, and was tearing my hair out. When I first started tuning my car I never even had to connect the ground cable between the laptop and the ftdi. Then after a while I was unable to data log and I figured out if I use the ground cable it would work. Then it stopped data logging again and I finally just figured out that it is because I forgot to set the latency settings in the control panel LOL I tried three laptops, but because each laptop was also seen my new ftdi cable for the first time it didn't have the appropriate settings I would guess. My other thought was that I had a bad ground or some loose wires, I do have something loose though I would think.
I went on a road trip and wanted to adjust my Boost cut on the way back but didn't have the adapter for my laptop, so I didn't end up burning any chips but just moving the ECU caused a code 4 and 6. After jiggling it a bit and wiping the codes the car has been fine since except for one day where I got a 6. This time wiggling the connector on the ECU did nothing but wiggling the connector on the actual sensor did, last time I did not even touch either of the sensors. Wiring can be a b**** sometimes, go figure I do it for a living. I want to slap whoever did the initial swap on my car.
Still have and will post pics of the damage. Still a work in progress, for sure!
Oh and I heard some like, sizzling/wheezing near the injectors (sounds like fried bacon, engine and mey off), thought it was electrical, disconnected battery still going, wiggled injectors, found #3 is making the noise. All look seated good.. maybe a bad oring? Don't see any fuel oozing out.. sounds like air escaping thru a fluid sorta?
Also, been having some chop up near boost cut.. raised my boost cut (from 7 to 9.5), new copper ngk 6 heat plugs, regapped from 0.44 to 0.30, cleaned inside of dizzy housing (was a tiny Lil bit of oil but not much at all).. seemed to help, feels like boost cut is turning on/off in between each cycle, usually (and always before this started happening) Boost cut would be like just on or off, not cycle that fast..?
Doesn't help I still haven't finished my prototype ewg/ordered a replacement for the meantime yet., it does open though? I think it also has a 14lb spring, and leaks, lol..
Now that I can data log again I think I'll solve this quick.
So I acquired another OBD2 B18B1 today, will be trading my friend a street tune for it once he gets his stuff together. Funny, the motor was at his friends house and it turned out I had already met his friend, who has a nice clean JDM ITR at 7-11 one day before I boosted or swapped any ITR parts on..
Didn't have anyone with (or without) a truck available (easter weekend) so my plan was to throw it into the trunk of my sedan and hope me and him would be enough to lift it.. Realized it wouldn't fit when I opened the trunk.. so threw it in the back seat..haha.
Some random guy in a vdub pulled up behind me as I was parking to grab the sedan (which tripped me out because I was facing backwards on the street in case I had to boost the sedan) I was like wtf but he was just checking out my hatch, apparently I raced him at a light one day and blew his doors off he said. I don't remember, I don't really "race" from lights so much as accelerate quickly to the speed limit anyway so thought it was funny he said I smoked him..anyway I conned him into coming help lift the motor into my car!
The motor itself is "blown", it started "knocking" or something in my buddy's teg and was swapped out. I haven't turned it yet but it sounds like it still rotates. I mainly got it for the head which is in good shape.
My head, when I got the car, had ZERO lash on the valves. No feeler gauge would fit at all. Redid it to spec and it got loud and ticky. The car always burned oil but getting worse and worse lately, symptoms say it's mostly valve seals. I checked the compression when I got the car and it was decent, although the intake cam was off a tooth which I found out when I did the lash adjustment which could potentially affect the reading. I never got a chance to do another compression test after I corrected the cam timing, but I'm going to do one this week and my #s will give me an idea.
The 'new' head has no visible wear on the cam lobes which is nice, I don't think I can say that about my current cams..! Who knows what else wore and how long the lash was that tight. This gives me a chance to clean up the new head, put in new seals quickly if I want (might as well, it wasn't burning anything to begin with but its always easier out of the car)
Also considering doing some mild port work on the head, nothing extensive, maybe just hit where I can with my dremel and hands. Engine didn't come with alternator or dizzy but does have power steering pump which is useless for me.
If the 'new' block is salvageable, I'll probably rebuild it, the exact process is still undecided.
When I put the new head on my current block, I'll doing at least the timing belt & water pump since I haven't yet. Planning to use a metal headgasket. Also will use ARP head studs. Will probably throw in ARP rod bolts too, seems like a very common recommendation, though if I'm going that far I'll probably put new rings in too..and if I'm going that far, maybe new bearings..But that depends what things look like too.
I'll also be putting my UR cam gears in. I may also throw my light weight flywheel on, I was gonna wait for a new clutch but mine feels like it's in great shape and is way better than stock, no idea what it is but I'm happy with it for now.
Just ordered a diytuning 3bar map sensor. The auction said "0.77v @ 50kpa - 4.75v @ 300kpa"
Well, ectune wants 0v and 5v values! So I linearly extropolate them to 17-3150mbar and it's close.. Originally selected the xenocron 3bar and that was close too (11 to 3150 or something?)
I tried matching the koeo value with what is read but didn't work too well.. using my mech boost/vac gauge as a general reference (it was pretty close to stock map readings before actually) I tuned the low end, I ended up using -80mbar to 3150 right now but boost is still reading low, so I'm going to have to raise the 5v value I think.
It's odd the values I extropolated didnt match up, now that it's at -80mbar it's pretty accurate upto boost in comparison to the gauge and it's running pretty close to how it was..a little lean in boost but it's also reading low boost so that makes sense.
I emailed diytuning, no response yet. I figured most sensors would use the same Freescale sensor so not much difference but haven't found ectune friendly values anywhere. I think crome uses the same type of input? I know hondata is different.
I've been able to hit 16 psi so far (and I've been running 10.5 psi cut until new map) and it seems OK, haven't really heard any knock but it's way leaner than I'd like so I haven't really ripped yet though I did smoke a 90s mustang GT omw home..haha..
I'm running it reasonably retarded right now and will probably keep it that way. I still am not sure how well my waste gate is opening, I can't hold 16psi long because I'm not on a dyno or a track and when you finally hit 16psi (bit of lag to get that far) and you look down and are doing 160kmh in a 110, it's time to slow down.
I do have to say I really do like the eBay bov I got off here.. it's not too quiet or too loud, seems to always blow off nicely..
I'm considering getting another knock off wg for $50 with a 7psi spring so I can actually use boost control better and be able to dial it down for daily. I am still working on my egate but that takes time.
Installed the 3bar, never finished tuning it completely in the high boost range..and blew it..on a road trip to Vancouver, racing a Thunderbird..I slowed down and he kept going and almost got pulled over trying to pass an undercover cop on the right..lol..
Not too bad..still runs and boosts, still smoked a frs the other day..smoked literally! That's all it does now. Right out the catch can. I've been being relatively gentle though. Must have det'd on #3 a bit, blew the plug electrode off and I assume the ring isn't sealing worth **** now as I'm getting exhaust from the catch can (yay blowby)
I also blew up one of my jdm brake pads? I guess the slides on one of my calipers wasn't moving r2as the 3 other pads still had lots of life. Will have to fix that soon, for now I just threw on new Ceramic pads. I plan on doing the prelude vtec brake upgrade soon anyway.
I put a set of newer used tires on the front, was hoping they'd last but were done by the end of the road trip..my fault for kind of ******* up my alignment in a hurry. I've since corrected it and it's way better now that I was able to spend time doing it and not rush.
Now that it's "blown", I have to tear apart the other b18b1 I got and see why that one is "blown". If it's in good shape I'll build it.
Will probably have to drive the Sedan for a bit, unfortunately it eats tires because the bushings are shot. I do have one control arm for the driver side tho, and uppers..I may just adjust the ties to get it as good possible for now tho.
Can't wait to tear into this other motor. Have a feeling it's going to be decent.
So, I might go a bit of a different direction, engine-wise with this, at least for now....!
I found a running b17a for sale locally for a very fair price!
I've always been interested in the possibility of building a de-stroked B18B.. According to the compression calculators, a B17 crank with custom rods and whatever pistons in a b18b block results in a way better r/s ratio (1.73).. It's identical displacement as the b17 motor but 1.73 r/s instead of 1.63.
b17 (p61) pistons would be 9.77:1 comp ratio and 0.013 piston to deck clearence, P73-a0 would be 10.75:1 (0.004 ptdc, smashy smash? no room for milling!?), p72-00 would be 10.31:1 (0.011 ptdc) ..
Not sure if all these combinations have enough room between the head, I bet the P73-A0 wouldn't be a good choice but 10.75:1 is pushing what I'd want to do for a boosted motor.
Either way, I think I'm going to pick up this b17a.. I will probably swap it in and run it for now since my current motor is well on it's way out and my other b18b1 was given to me as "blown", dunno what's wrong with it, apparently it was making knocking noises but knowing some people, it could've been valve tick! haha....we'll know when I pull that one apart.
I'll probably run the b17a1 for a bit while I rebuild one of the b18b1's stock. When that's done, I'll swap it for the b17a, run the b18b for a bit while putting together the crankenstein (assuming I decide to do it), once the crankenstein is finished, I'll swap that in and put the stock rebuilt b18b1 in my girls sedan, probably with a b auto trans. Chances are by then I'll have collected some better boost parts, and if I have, then the sedan will be boosted as well.
Now, let's hope I can get my hands on this b17. If I had the cash, I'd be on my way to his house right now! Unfortunately, I have to wait to get paid.
So I put 10% deposit down on the B17 today. I didn't know but it is actually apart so I won't instantly be able to throw it in.. He also has a bunch of other Honda stuff he's throwing in. I walked away today with a trans (y1 I believe? Cable B series Trans...?) and two alternators for free on top of the engine. I probably won't use the Trans as its cable and my car is hydro...but who knows, the sedan is auto..but I have to convince my gf to drive stick first! Lol
He pulled the head because it was missing here and there..turned out to be the dizzy he says (and I believe after looking at it) and admitted it was a n00b move to pull the head before checking that completely, though he doesn't actually seem like a n00b.
There was also a ZEX controller and nozzle in the box..no bottle but..maybe I can rig it to spray water/meth or even NOS though I'd only be using it for cooling really as I'm boosted.
Comes with a new head gasket and timing belt, think he said it's just a standard hg.
Should have the motor paid for within the next week or two..then I'll probably slap it together for now and swap it in and keep my original plan.
Okay...So I was on my way to work the other day and I heard some hissing on the way, knew it was water.
Got to work, did the install, started feeling sick after (heat, dehydration) so totally forgot to check it when I left, got half way home, thought I was running out of gas because I was decelerating while on the throttle, pulled off the freeway, realized it was 2500rpm fuel cut due to overheating, was too sick to pull over and deal with it so I pushed it til I got home. Engine was already beat.
Poured water in the next day, gushed out timing cover. Yay. Pulled it to the back. Swapped some tires around and got the sedan on the road. Drove that for a few days. Forgot one of the lugstuds was already broken on the passenger front, then snapped a second..funny how that happened on both cars... which also prevented me from reusing the knuckle I kept that I thought I threw out, but didn't..pulled it out and remembered that was why I did the 4x114.3 on the front when I did..!
The driver side was too rusty to bother hammering the wheel hub assembly out. Went to the junkyard and grabbed a knuckle off a Teg. Was gonna use one of the new ball joints I ordered for that car but the one in the knuckle was good so left it for now. Totally didn't realize the wheel hub flange diameter was bigger on the Tegs (or Si/EX) so my rotor wouldn't go back on.
Well, **** it. I just put brand new pads and rotors on this car 2 years ago and the rotor looked like **** already and the car was barely driven. So I got 2 new Teg rotors and yanked the "JDM" calipers off my car, along with the brand new Ceramic pads I just put on. Obviously I cant use the JDM rotors because they're 4x114.3.
So I do need to go back and get the driverside Teg knuckle and do the other side, but now the Sedan has upgraded brakes. Huge difference with just the one side done even. I thought I went with premium parts last time, maybe they weren't coated well, but the rotors were rusted worse than the ones that came from Japan with the 4x114.3 swap.
Wait! Why in God's name would I cannibalize my GOOD car for my beater?! Am I really too cheap to buy a second set of pads and new calipers?
No way! For the price I would have paid locally for those, I will (probably, debating) be ordering a Powerstop Z26 1-click kit for a 96 Prelude VTEC. Comes with "drilled and slotted" rotors (meh), carbon ceramic pads (which I may replace in the future, I disn't find the carbon ceramic pads I just had on my civic that good, in fact, they kind of sucked, well, for performance, great for daily driving) as well as new red powder coated clappers, brackets and all hardware.
I've read some OK reviews on the kit, I don't expect it to be amazing but I do expect it to be at least on part with The OEM Prelude parts.
For it's price, I really can't complain.. $300 Canadian for a whole kit with Red Powder Coated Calipers, Drilled and Slotted Coated Rotors, Carbon Ceramic Brake Pads ..sounds like a bunch of marketing stuff..but they're probably better than most new non-reman calipers..I hope..they look OK.
The reviews I read were mostly good but all from muscle cars..that are much heavier..and I didn't see any reviews on a kit with clappers.
Okay aside from that..tomorrow should be B17 day assuming everything works out..I plan on picking up the block tomorrow.
Hopefully will have it swapped in within the next week or two. Will need to get the brake kit or swap parts back off the sedan to drive it though. The B17 is also not assembled, so will have to do that..but that gives me a chance to do ARP rod bolts and head studs and a nice headgasket? Seems like a good idea. Debating getting the head/block cleaned up but it's not like it's a different head/block, they were just pulled apart.
Apparently it was missing, he pulled it apart, turned out it was the dizzy or something, admitted it was hasty to pull the head but eh? I spun the bottom end and it sounded good. Head look good.
Will also allow me to mount my adjustable cam gears and throw in my 11lb flywheel. I may order a new clutch and pressure plate. Will probably have the flywheel resurfaced. Have to find a good local machine shop.
Also planning on ordering a new turbo. Didn't expect this one to last. Was cheap. Is oiling. Will try a better restricter this time. Also thought about independent oiling but meh.
I just hope it's not down for 2 months like it was last year at this time..especially since at the moment, it's outside and not in the garage..which is across the city..
Rare ECU too..PO suggested I sell it on eBay and keep my current ECU, shrug. AFAIK it has knock board which would be nice for logging but I don't plan to rely on the stock ecus knock abilities to save my motor. Good tuning will, though I've been considering something like a j&s. I could also use a KS with 5v out to an aux line and use that for retard thinking that may be better than the built in stuff..dunno yet..I like that J&S can retard on each cyl as needed..a good tune is a good tune but even with some built in safety, a mountain on a hot day with a bad tank is something I'd never have to worry about..or det at all..almost feels like a cheat and I've never really liked piggyback devices but..I bet it'd probably work better than anything I can work out with a stock chipped ECU.
Will take pics tomorrow when I get it on the stand.
BTW. You can fit 2 B series bottom ends in the back seat of an EG Sedan. I have a full b18b1 in the passenger rear, the B17 block in a storage container in the driverside rear and it's head and the rest in a container in the passenger seat.
So yes, my sedan is currently carrying 3 motors. I could probably fit another in the trunk if I really wanted and if it wasn't together, haha. My poor rear springs. Should take a pic of the sag too haha.
I think I am just going to put it together as is for the winter, then I'll start collecting some new parts such as:
New ebay turbo..or maybe a better turbo this time.
PR3 pistons, rings
Arp rod bolts, studs
Peen rods?
Maybe new bearings
New Clutch/pp
Cometic hg
Prelude brake kit
Started cleaning pistons Looking pretty good for 25 years old, who knows how many KMs and only a tooth brush for cleaning. Installed my Unorthodox Racing adjustable cam gears. Cleaning up the head. Some valves are really caked. Will take them out for cleaning.
Plugs pulled fro, b17 head Turbo is dirty. Oily! Not too much more shft play. Oily but i think the majority of my smoking was from rings/valve seals. Might replace turbo. More dirty turbo B18 almost ready to come out Oil pooling in IM from going past rings out carch can and condensing there. Oil build up Got an engine hoist..Yay for working in thr back yard. B series cable tranny that came free with b17, y1 maybe? The other 'blown' b18 i was given Im off the b18 in the car B18 in hatch almost ready for removal.
I would've waited until the engine was out of the car before removing the intake manifold, its a pain to do in the car.
tell me about it. I got some practice at it so only took 20mins. Oh, and I also intentionally left the IM support bracket off last time I removed the IM for that exact reason.
truth be told I wanted to do it in that order but the engine leveler I have may have been a b*tch to fit with it on.
I'll probably put it on before the b17 goes in though. May also leave the bracket on it.
Ordered the brakes. Lots of threads say use the 23t bracket with shim. Another thread said instead use 25t and no shims well prelude comes with 25t hoping this kit bolts up. 370 cad shipped. Powers top z26. Pads are supposed to be good to 1500 degrees.
Took the b17 head apart. Gonna send it out to get resurfaced. Gotta clean up the valves. Head had the old style LMA's so I'm going to order new ones.
looking at picking up a set of Tokico blues with nuespeed springs maybe. Also looking at an exhaust for sale local.
11-30-2016, 11:43 PM
Re: Rally Hatch build thread
but does have power steering pump which is useless for me.
I have a full b18b1 in the passenger rear, the B17 block in a storage container in the driverside rear and it's head and the rest in a container in the passenger seat.
@ three blocks in your car. Don't get in an accident.
