8's still aren't necessary. I've driven in even hotter temperatures consistently for years, and those 7s are fine. they don't look all that dangerously lean or anything to me. I'd keep it rocking.
Idle issues usually occur on 8s like that. the slightest nod causes the car to not start.

Let's just say, I save 8s for circuit racing only, and those are 40 minute sessions.

I think you're overdoing it a bit. everything else just checks out fine.

 

Well... I should have checked them a long time ago. The ground strap looks too hot to me, but I don't think it's too telling trying to read the rest of the plugs at this stage. I've had them installed from 1st start up till now. Been through a lot of lean and rich moments from then till now. I got nothing to judge it with.

For now I went ahead and wire brushed the BKR7E's. Cleaned them up real good and made sure they where all gapped correctly. They're back in the car now.

I already "special ordered" the BKR8EIX's through O'reillys. At $9 a damn plug I wonder how it'd go if tomorrow I told them i change my mind lol.

 

They'll cancel fine. Just do it. IT really isn't necessary (and can be detrimental) going that cold of a plug.

 

Was a good day at the Dyno


Everything went well. Was rolling and making pulls by 8:20am in 76' weather, only thing it was very lightly raining on and off which I'm sure killed some power but hey... I like to do it real world, no HP number tricks. I dyno'd the car exactly how I drive it on the street.

1st two pulls were baseline pulls. This is how I've been driving it with a very conservative 14' timing...
#1. 326hp / 245tq
#2. 327hp / 243tq

next up I added 2' timing, for 16'
#3. 334hp / 247tq

Next again I added 2' timing, for 18'
#4. 346hp / 252tq -BEST pull of the day.

and again i added 2' timing, for 20'
#5. 339hp / 253tq -Over-advance hits

at this point I considered 20' to be the wall and for 18' to be my Max. So I went back to recheck 16' timing again
#6. 333hp / 247tq

and lastly I went full circle and reran the baseline with 14' timing as a check
#7. 327hp / 241tq

Peak Power was at 7500RPM & Peak Torque was at 6300-6400RPM with a super flat 225tq from approx 4500RPM carrying all the way across to redline. (Dyno graph to be posted soon)

That concluded my session. all these runs were made with a steady 12.5psi at 11.6-11.7 AFR, and because I knew I was going to be seeking the limits of timing.... I had mixed a couple gallons of VP114 into the tank giving me approx 98oct.

when I left the dyno I'm happy to say I didn't have to make a single change to my map. My street tune was spot on and I left the dyno keeping the same 14' timing that I had when I got there. I won't be using 98oct gas, I'll be on 93oct pump gas and I want it safe. This summer has been ruff with mid 90' degree days. The difference between the lowest pull and the highest was about 20hp and 10tq with 4' timing difference. Now I know exactly where my car likes it's timing, and I'm willing to sacrifice the extra power knowing that I'm running safely.


Funny thing.... this was a big Hot Rod shop and I was the 1st Honda on their dyno, and the 1st FWD car lol. I hold all the records haha The guys at the shop all stood around and were very impressed with the little rocket. Oh! and they all got a kick out of it having 230,000 miles too lol "it's just being broke in" 👍🏼

 

That's awesome dude! Thanks for posting your ignition timing and results too. I love stuff like this!

I wish there was a dyno even remotely close to me.

 

That's badass good numbers

 

awesome work, bet it feels great to know things are running safe and giving good numbers

 

Very nice man, great results and very clean car. Shows what attention to detail and proper maintenance can accomplish. Also LOVE the airbox.

What size downpipe do you have from Greg? Is it the 2.5" -> 3" flared pipe, or is it full 3" all the way through? Curious because I'm looking at what's clearing the AC compressor.

Also, do you know what RPM you're getting full boost at?

 

Nice! Great enjoyable power and great work on the informative & detailed posts.

That particular one is a recirculated full 3" (though most are transitioned when going 3", this one isn't)

 

Awesome read! I got to say, this is one of the best sounding B series that I have ever heard. Kudos on the dual resonators.

 

Heh. I got a few vids of mine and a few others with no resonators. You must not have heard any good honda turbo exhausts, (although I do like the sound of this one, very much)

 

Thanks

All a matter of opinion. Some like it quieter.

 

Thx everyone I really appreciate it!
When I 1st started working on the car (knowing how may hundreds of hours I had into my last build) I wondered how I could possibly get it all done. Working piece by piece for months. Now though I'm enjoying my progress. Testing the timing on the dyno felt like I finished a big stage in the build.

I'm gonna keep going at it. I'll continue to update the thread as I go. Still a very long road ahead for this build. Lots of things to learn and do... but for now I'm ready to enjoy what I've got before any more major work😋

Soecial thx to Marshall *** for the video footage👍🏼

 

great video, awesome numbers. love the clean setup.

 

By all means, post them up.

 

It's somewhat a subjective opinion, but not really.. It's rather a bold statement, no matter how you try to spin it.

I do understand what you're getting at; A clean, reasonable, aggressive, yet professional sounding exhaust.

 

Good to see someone still using a quality cast manifold. Back in the day people made great power on them and there was nothing at all wrong with them especially if your not looking to make 600+whp.

 

Someone more knowledgeable can probably give more details on this or refute it, but one of the only concerns I've ever had about log style manifolds especially on these high flowing cylinder heads is the exhaust gases can have interference with one another as they merge on the collector. The pulses can fight each other a bit reducing efficiency on the scavenging factor of the manifold, increasing heat and backpressure slightly.

Not at all saying a log design is all together bad or doesn't have it's place. Plenty of OEM designs use cast log as well. I'd imagine it becomes more of an issue for higher power output setups.

If anyone wants to comment on those points and/or refute them feel free, it's an interesting subject IMO.

 

None of that is an issue in a lower horsepower car which is what I stated. Due to space plenty of K series Si guys run logs and make 500-600 whp with no issues. A 350whp car isn't going to benefit that much if any from a $1000 manifold.

 

Great numbers and it sounds good!

 

im just older now and want a smoother quieter sound. Plus I love to hear the turbo spool and whine. So that's the reason behind my double resonator and recirculated wastegate dump. Just my preference with THIS particular build. Had it been a build for a different situation I may do it different, but smooth sound was the goal for this one

 

yup! I think these manifolds are WAY overlooked in the Honda performance sector. I wanted to retain AC & PS and knew this was the most likely to work with good clearance. Plus coming from the Mitsubishi turbo side where cast manifold are stock and we know they can make power... I knew it would work. 327-346whp and over 250wTrq at 12.5psi... I'd say it's flowing very well 👍🏼

3 project-cars ago I had a Eagle Talon with a ported stock cast manifold. That manifold flowed well too; made over 500awhp on 93oct pump gas at 27psi. Trapped 130mph in the 1/4mile. And that ported stock manifold is no better than the one I'm using now

 

I have a "cast" manifold, but it's not a "log" manifold.

this is a tubular "log" manifold.


This is a Cast "log" manifold.

As you can see, yes they could certainly have the issues you talk about. They're very inefficient

-------------------------------------------
THIS is the manifold design I use. It's a cast manifold but not a "log" it has individual runners (not equal length but individual) and each runner exits into the collector. It's not perfect but much better than a "log" design






Again... flowing enough to make nearly 350whp @12.5psi is pretty damn good.

Also realize that I am HP limited with my stock motor setup. This manifold has more in it for sure. My setup is ready for 400whp once my motor can take it... and with me able to make 350hp at under 13psi.... I'm sure I'll easily hit my 400whp goal with this setup.

 

Ah, thanks for pointing that out. I see the difference, definitely seems significant too.

 

We've had customers make 450+ on the V2 cast log (same ceramic coated options being used here) with a slightly larger T04B turbo option. The manifold itself works great in the right combinations (such as the build here). The runner design, central gate, and turbo placement all work well for the application and IMO come to be far superior to the SS logs. The ONLY "benefit" we had in making the SS log was that the flange could be moved to accommodate a larger variety of turbos; but even then it would mostly get used in a "not so ideal" parts combination.

I have some rapid proto cutout pics somewhere where you can look straight down into the manifold, unfortunately all I can find right now is the side shot when we were checking different housing clearances.