I always had faith in the little guy no matter what anyone said! It's a badass turbo! Kinda want new injectors just to max the thing out! Haha

 

Im going to try and run at the next IFO on the 29th of this month. Car definitely needs an alignment and then slicks. I don't know how it'll do with the B16 gearing though.

 

You'll be fine with B16 gearing. I ran the B16 trans on my 600whp LS/VTEC and 24.5" slicks. You should be able to pull around 138 mph at ~8500 with that gearing.

 

I kind of want to avoid shifting into 5th though. I'm assuming thats what you had to do?

 

Honda Transmission Calculator by ZealAutowerks

 

Nope, I ran it out in 4th. At you power level you should be able remain in 4th. I trapped ~140 hitting the 9100 rev limiter just at the 400m mark. What you need to factor in with the gear calculator is that slicks grow at speed, so they artificially "lower" your gear ratio, giving you a couple extra mph versus a radial tyre.

With the LS' 4.266 final drive it dropped the rpm about 500 - 600 rpm on my setup but the gear calculator will give you the actual amount.

 

Picked up another set of TE37S for pretty cheap. I think they fit the car well.

Also the shop that tuned the civic had a dyno day and I thought the results were interesting. I MADE 486HP.

 

Damn making power Crazy it's the exact same hp you made on tune day. How much boost was that run at? Did you only make one pull?

 

I didn't run I just stopped by. I just thought it was cool to see what the others made.I should have been more specific haha. This weekend I'm gonna run at the ifo and have to the real numbers.

 

Oh **** lol sometimes I can't read haha!

Looking forward to your results from the track. What tires are you gonna run on?

 

I'm gonna be running on 205 neogens also.

 

Took the car out to test the new alignment I had done, and the Car drives so much better! Also testing my buddies go pro so I can set it up for the track. Sorry the videos short also. 3rd gear does hold very well on the street haha.

 

Nice! 👍🏼

Is your tach way off? I remember mine was in my eg so I went with an omni tach and it read perfect.

OMNI POWER TACHOMETER HONDA CIVIC EG 92-95 INSTRUMENT GAUGE CLUSTER (8000 RPM) eBay

 

It probably is. I don't really use it but would be nice to have a accurate tach. I don't really wanna spend 100+ on a tach haha

 

I'm in the left lane.


Only good pass I had. I hit 5th gear too so I'm assuming the rev limit could be raised. This was the only pass I made under full power. I don't know why but close to the top of 4th gear it would cut and lose all power. I didn't have a laptop so I couldn't get any datalogs either. Kinda sucked. What happens when you get a boost? Maybe it was hitting boost?

 

Fixed that there for you. It's possible you're hitting boost cut, but it could also mean that you're starting to blow out spark at higher rpm levels. Might be time for some stock ignition enhancements, to start out slow, then see if more robust ignition is needed like an ignition box and external coil. Check the spark plug gap first (no sense in using good plugs under .25" gap) and try it again, monitoring your boost cut and limits from the management.

 

Like Shodan said it's probably boost cut or spark blowout. My guess is boost cut because it only happened at the top of 4th gear. Your car is probably loading up better at the track in 4th then it did on the dyno so you are probably seeing a little more boost. Next time bring the laptop and log some runs so you will have a better idea of what is causing issues when they come up like this.

 

Ok I'll gap the plugs to .25. Of course it's raining today so I'll have to test it out hopefully tomorrow.

 

The ex just moved out and the laptop was hers : (. Hahaha I'll have to buy my own now I guess. What's the theory behind building more boost under load? I know I've read it somewhere but it's been awhile. It was the first thing I thought of. What's weird is the first pass the car felt amazing! After that pass it would cut out on the top end of 4th gear only. Boost cut is set at 17psi and I was seeing 20psi on my boost gauge. I'll get some logs and report back.


Edit- The slip I posted I also hit the limiter every gear. The car definitely was not slowing down when I hit it so I'm gonna set the limiter to 8500.

 

more load = more boost. I cant quite explain the science although i believe i somewhat understand if that makes any sense haha

higher gears make more boost sooner, ie 4th gear spools faster then 1st and neutral builds basically nothing.

You will have much higher loads on the street then you do on the dyno so this is a very common issue, best to make boost adjustments on the street and even then there are variables hills etc

8500 sounds fine, thats what I have my GSR motor set to, actually surprised your tuner didn't set it higher most b16's I come across are revving 9k+

 

I'm surprised the first time it did this was on the track. It never had that problem on the street. So should I up the boost cut 1 psi? Or take it back to the tuner?

 

that depends on the tuner if he tuned it for that boost range or not best to contact tuner first.

Better idea is usually to do your boost adjustments so don't hit boost cut. You usually want a few psi between target boost and boost cut, there will always be slight variants so you want some headroom.

 

I'm surprised more people don't know this but downloading your tune of s300 should not be trusted. I downloaded my tune a couple weeks ago so I could save it. Friday I went to change my rev limits at my buddies house so I uploaded the map with the adjustments and fml if it didn't start. I tried everything to get it running because a few tuners assured me it would be fine but just my luck it wasn't. Car would idle for about 5 seconds and then die. I tried to get my tune from the tuner and for some reason they didn't want to release it at first but I'm bugged the **** out of them till they did. As soon as I uploaded the tune the car started right up! I've read a couple threads with people saying not to trust the downloaded tunes and I just wanted to back that up.

Does anyone use locktite on the bolts that hold the drain flange to the turbo? Mine seems to work its way loose. Also what color?

 

I actually have on many of my turbo applications. most of the time I use either Green (Loctite 294) because it can withstand temperatures up to about 450F* which is about the temperature of that location in relation to the rest of the CHRA, which can easily get up to about 700F*.

Once in a while, if I know that the turbo is seeing steady temperatures of over 600F* or more for extended periods of time, I'll use Blue (Loctite 2422) since it can take up to 650F* and still be removable when needed.

I don't recommend Red at all unless you're really planning on using heat to get them off, and certainly not on oil return flange bolts.

 

I have not had that problem, sounds like the file got corrupted somehow though just like any computer file can. I always save multiple copies of my tune (each time a change is made) on my laptop then back it up again on another computer, flash drive etc.

I had that problem until I used studs + locking copper nuts. I used this setup on all my hot parts..manifold to head, turbo to manifold, and the downpipe to turbo. I dont really trust locktite due to the high heat environment.
You can pick up the studs/nuts relatively cheap I got both on ebay. just make sure you order the correct length/thread pitch