Lookin good man. I've had that same clutch in the past, it wasn't that bad. I personally like an aggressive clutch on my fun cars, but that's just me lol. Good move on the my Honda habit oil pan gasket. I have the same one on my gsr and not a drip of oil gets past it. I'll be keeping an eye on this build. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.

 

see what happens when ppl try to use the search function like everyone raves about (instead of asking things that have been asked 1000 times) a guy goes out and buy too much clutch!😁 Hopefully thatll be my worst choice in this build.

inforgot to mention.... one of the reasons for up to a 6 week wait time to complete the kit... is because I'm getting both the manifold and turbine housing 2000' black ceramic coated. Reason being for quality and keeping engine bay heat down (so shodan that'll help with the AC heat issue). I'll probably add a turbo blanket as well and wrap the downpipe. Dump tube is also being recirculated this time because I'm tired of open dump wastegates. WG recirculated into a 3" downpipe. I wanna hear nothing but sweet turbo whistle.

I could have put a turbo system together a lot cheaper, but I'm going for a quality build here so.... I appreciate all the comments and advice! Thank you

 

Well I ordered a Competition Flywheel to go along with my Clutch. Went with the 12lb Flywheel to keep a more street-like feel. Will go nicely with the clutch and this way I won't have any questions as to how everything with work together.

i also decided to order a set of new OEM replacement axel assemblies. My CV boots have some hairline cracks in them on both sides. Not cracked through yet, but while I have the Trans out for a clutch job, I might as well put some new axels in before my CV boots fully crack open.

Shodan, while I was ordering the Flywheel I was still kinda baffled as to why you thought the Stage4 was so overkill and it finally hit me what I had done. The whole time I was thinking that the 250% holding capacity of the clutch was just 250%, BUT it's 250% ADDITIONAL capacity on top of the original clutches capacity! NOW I get it ya, I got way too much clutch. But again hopefully that is my worst mistake.

Made a touch of progress today with a little gauge wiring.


Wish I could have found the Speedhut bezel which doesn't cover up the temp and fuel gauge as much. Almost went with the Autometer bezel which is similar to the Speedhut, but wasn't about to pay $80 for it. At $30 this Glowshift bezel was priced right, and if I dont like it maybe I'll find a better fix after I get the turbo kit installed and running. For now this is good

 

Yeah, that was my concern. You hit the nail on the head, but again, you may still like it, so only time (and proper break-in) will tell.

The OEM axles were always a funky bunch. Run it with the OEM Torsen Type3 LSD and you're fine. Put in a Helical like a Quaife, Wavetrac or MFactory, they survive, but depending upon driving style, not very long. Add a clutch type LSD, and those axles are done in minutes. So, just be aware that LSD type and driving behaviour will be factors in how well those OEMs will last. you may have to go aftermarket in the future. But you can't cross that bridge until you get to it. So, rock on!!

 

My OEM integra axles are still alive to this day. Yet I've been through about 3 sets of autozone remans on my other cars over the years.

 

I need to clarify myself. I was referring to the OEM Remanufactured Axles (Autozone, CarQuest, Advanced, etc) that are the funky bunch, not true OEM.

 

Eeeewwwww well I got funky-bunch replacement axels. They came in today actually. I'll try the funky's out, and keep my OEM axles as backups. If the new funky's crap out on me then I'll just replace the boots on my OEM's and reinstall those.

So I continue to receive supporting mods for the Turbo . Yesterday I received my ECU with Hondata. The Hondata system seems pretty standard and I don't see any issues with finding my way around it. Yesterday I also mounted the catch can. I'll be using the back of the block for crankcase venting.

Today I started the Skunk2 IM install. Its the last time this car will have the GSR manifold on it. I kinda liked it really. Love it when the secondary's open, but not great for a turbo, so I say goodbye to it.


Ever wonder how much that GSR beast manifold weights? 23lbs! That's the IM, TB & manifold bracket.


I also weighed the new Manifold w/ ITR Throttle body; it's less than half the weight at 11lbs.


That'll help take away from all the extra weight I'll be installing with thwnturbo system.

This is Skunk2 1st version which I like the looks of it not having the block-Logo on top. Gives it a OEM look and I like that. Before I put this thing on I'll finish up the Catchcan vent lines, install those. Also I'm gonna put in a new rear motor mount, with poly inserts on the sides. The original mount is totally shot. Ive already replaced all other mounts with poly inserts and so far these inserts are giving me the feel I want; stock like vibration-absorbing at the stoplights, and stiff when banging through gears 👍🏼

 

Ahhhhh AN fittings... it's a real love hate relationship. Always takes longer than it should being a real bitch to get'em together without scratching them up.




Anyways I got the GSR mani out; the block vent fittings are installed and the Catchcan hoses are assembled and ready to install. Didn't have time to get to the rear motor mount. And OMG what the hell is all that hose mess! Geezus the OCD in me says I'm gonna have to clean that up; just because

 

What are ppl taping into to get coolant to their turbos?

Looks like this thing could be an option.....

it was part of the stock crack pressure vent system. The water hoses connected to the little metal heating-pipe, which was used to heat up any engine goo that came from valve cover vent (which was being sucked out by vacuum from the air intake). Ive got no need for it anymore... think it will work as coolant feed and drain lines for the turbo?

 

One of two areas.

1) Throttle body coolant line for one fitting, and the water neck (or thermostat housing area) for the other side.

2) B&R Fittings coolant kit that uses the front freeze plug for one side, and the radiator (either an adapter to -6AN to the drain plug) or an aluminum weld bung (comes in the kit) for aluminum radiators.
(I recommend if using a GT or GT(X) CHRA, use the banjo bolt version for easier integration.)
GT Turbo Coolant Kit

 

Nice work!

The Street X GO-AUTOWORKS kit comes w/ a -6 steel weld bung that is to be welded to the rear water pipe across the back of the block. It also comes with a -6 male to 1/8 male that can be tapped to the water neck outlet. (sidenote, I see you have some SS/Red &Blue) AN assemblies in place already. You can shoot an email to goautoworks@hotmail.com to have the oil lines in the kit made to match as they typically get black fittings)

 

Shodan that B&R kit is nice but at this point I need cheaper options (not "cheap" or rigged, but less expensive till funds replenish). I keep adding little nice-to-haves here and there and it's adding up quick. Who knew that a catch can kit would cost as much as they do! But really if I'm gonna spend ANY money on something I want it done right the 1st time. Doing it right is NEVER cheap.

Couple days ago I was adding the cost of everything; thinking "I need to wait and see whats all included in the Go-Autoworks Turbo kit before I buy anything else". Thinking as complete a kit as it is... maybe since I upgrade to ball bearing turbo the water lines would be included.

Thank you GoAutoworks for chiming in and letting me know the water lines are included! It's a pleasure to have purchased a kit that is as complete as what you offer. Can't wait to get it!

 

Build progress hasnt stopped. I got the rear motor mount changed out. The fronts had been done awhile ago, but I was waiting to do the rear when I had the Intake Manifold out and now was that time. It was completely shot.

Anyone else thinking of Turbo'ing a high milage car... this is part of it. All my motor torque mounts (front and rear) where gone like this. It had to be done, but ESPECIALLY needed it for the increased power the turbo will provide. Was REAL fun getting the rear mount and bracket holes to align up too.


Other major point if pleasure was getting the old intake manifold gasket off.....


Thats what it looked like after about a hours worth of work. Never before have I had such a nightmare of a gasket removal as this one. I kept taking brakes and coming back to it but I bet I had 3hrs in getting that gasket off peice by peice

A completely unessearly thing... I decided to round and smooth the inner lip if the TB before I installed it.

This really won't amount to anything performance wise (not with a turbo system), but it's a nice touch. And it kept me from going crazy working on removing that damn gasket!

The one oopsie I ran into was that when I was removing the GSR intake manifold I broke the Knock Sensor. I didn't even relies it till a day later. So I'm now waiting on a replacement knock sensor to install before I tighten the Intake Manifold down and hook up hoses. Soon as that's done I'll have 4 more things checked off the build list. Intake Manifold, ITR TB, Catch Can vent system, and Rear Motor Mount nearly complete

 

If you go the hondata engine management route you can just disable it. Ive had mine disabled since day one. Also if your get solid engine mounts, you wont have to worry about the lower torque mounts.

 

Yea it's running Hondata. I know I can disable the knock sensor but I specifically have a P72 ECU so that I have the option to use it I understand ppl say it's too sensitive, and I may end up disabling it, but I atleast want to try to use it.

My goal with this car is to have a fun streetable ride. Full interior, PS, AC (yet no radio, because it's a driver). It's gonna be smooth and relatively quite (full 3" exhuast with extra mid-pipe resonator. I've had hard mounts in other cars and theyre too hard core for what I'm building here. At one point I had all solid billet shifter bushings; even that allowed too much vibration in. I kept the front solid bushing but the one under the shifter is back to stock. If anyone wants their shifter to be super notchy like a race car, then install this along with the round solid bushing up front. Awesome shift but horrible vibrations

 

Well I'm back on the road as of today. Feels good to drive it.

For the Knock Sensor replacement I ended up going with a unit from K-Tuned. It's the newer style all metal knock sensor that Hondas use in their K-Series motors. I had to change out the Sensor plug but it fits right in place of my old b-series knock sensor. My hopes is that with this newer style Sensor it won't be as sensitive as I hear the old ones are. I hear ppl say the b-series knock Sensor is so sensitive you can't use it for high-RPM tuning. Hoping this newer style Sensor isn't calibrated so sensitive and gives a more accurate reading.

so far everything is working nicely, I just need to make a couple minor tweeks and fine tune the top of the RPM range. At this point I'm pretty much done until the Go-Autoworks turbo kit is delivered.



I'm going to the drag strip this weekend to make some NA passes. Also I'll see about scheduling some baseline dyno pulls too. Will be fun to have a before turbo and after turbo comparisons 👍🏼

 

Thought I'd check in. Not much has happened lately, but i did get an update from Go-Autoworks today saying my turbo kit is about 2 weeks out. Can't wait! I was even told that when they saw my post here on HT they decided to order blue and red AN fittings for my kit to match my other stuff. Can't ask for better than that!

i was finally able to get my car to the drag strip for somw NA baseline runs. Nothing spectacular but I made a couple 12.9 @ 84mph w/ 2.4 60ft passes. This was a 1000ft strip. Weather was near 90' and super humid. The old worn out and hardened tires that came on the car wouldn't allow me any better 60ft so that's where my time is at to start.
***EDIT: the following week we had better weather. I ran a 12.7 @ 86mph w/ 2.3 60ft.

I NEED TIRES! .....So what should I buy?
My needs are... something that'll hook up hard (cause this little turbo is gonna come on early and strong), last a minimum 5000 miles on the street, and able to "talorate" some mountain twisty roads when I feel like it. Also I don't care about wet traction; car won't see water. Its a fair weather weekend fun car that won't see 5000 miles a year at most. So I'm willing to sacrifice durability for "hook-up".

 

Also how about ARP head studs? I read some ppl say they are a good idea for peace of mind. I've also read some ppl say stock head bolts are not the weakest link, and that rods and pistons will break before bolts do. Any thoughts?

I found a set of CTR cams locally for $120 and HAD to get them at that price. I know I don't need them now at my power level but figured I'd save them later for a future block build. BUT if ppl think I should install head studs, i might as well install these cams too since i have to remove cams to install studs.

 

I realize my threads kinda boring right now with not much progress (still waiting on turbo kit to ship), but can I get some advice here? How bought head studs and ctr cams?

With a goal of 300-350whp... im leaning towards purchasing and installing ARP head studs. Also I recently found a set of CTR cams locally and purchased them (even though I don't "need" them) because they were just $120. I'm wondering since I have to remove cams to do head studs... Should I go ahead and install the CTR cams? Or at least the CTR intake cam? I do not want to mess with valve springs or adjustable cam gears at this point (so that's why I wonder if just a CTR intake cam would be a bump up in performance?).

ive decided that Im gonna set boost at 10psi, and whatever power I make is what I make. Keeping the stock MAP sensor and running 10psi is gonna put a small mental barrier between me and trying to turn up the boost on stock internals. But at the same time if I can gain a little power with a CTR intake cam at 10psi that's all good too.

thoughts anyone?
Thx!

 

CTR Camshafts, sure. Headstuds for this power goal isn't necessary on a stock engine. If you were already taking it apart, it makes sense. Otherwise, no. "Peace of Mind" or whatever reason, for those goals, it's not necessary, and if done improperly, you'll turn a good situation easily into a bad one.


Why would you think you need to do headstuds since you're changing camshafts. You're not saving yourself any step here. I think you want more validation for your approach, and you may get it, but most of us here have done this in different ways, and tend to watch the fireworks as they unfold. IF you want CTR camshafts, no problem, but for your power goal, GS-Rs will do just fine. It's not the same as NA world. But if you got 'em, try 'em out....

Don't start that mix/match bullshit. If you have a set then use them, otherwise don't. This isn't a supercharger, and although both deal with boost pressure, they go about it very differently. So, keep it simple. I believe you're starting to get ansy and beginning to overthink a simple and relatively standard formula. Don't start thinking you can "change the game" by just switching out parts arbitrarily.


You don't know what your boost pressure is going to be. That's based upon the turbocharger that you're using and the software management. You gotta think above your boost pressure range because you don't really know if it will be 10psi or 10.4 psi or 11.2psi, and then you're stuck because you got lazy and didn't think of the end-game with your sensors. Get a 3BAR MAP sensor, since your management will be able to see it anyway, keep calm and move forward.

I think you're doing to much overthinking and not enough equipment /management / purpose planning. Once you start doing that, can we then only comment on whether or not you're on the right path.

 

I would install the arp headstuds and ctr cams. You have the parts already so why not make your setup more efficient with better parts. I'm not 100% about stock gsr valve springs with ctr cams though. I went with 70lb supertech dual valve springs and used oem retainers, the springs themselves where pretty affordable ~$165 iirc. As for tires for your intended uses the R888s are pretty hard to beat.

 

I've never had a head lift on 300-320whp B-series engines to involve changing to ARPs. Separate the head/block is one thing, but then you're putting in forged internals anyway. In 20 years I've had one of the same B18C engines (17 of those 20 were turbocharged) I've only changed ARP studs twice, and both times were because I was reinforcing the engine. From 1999-2001 I was at 330whp BONE STOCK with OEM head bolts. If he engine is otherwise healthy, you're fine.

 

THANK YOU guys!

im absolutely getting antsy. Rethinking and overthinking everything! Even wondeing should I have gone with the 30r for more upper range hp instead of less around-town part Throttle fun. No going back now. Hhuuuuuu I'm just so ready to have it installed

shodan I may have wrote that backwards.... What I meant to say was... that I would have to take out my gsr cams, in order to install headstuds underneath the cams... so in that case, if I already had cams out... should I go ahead and install the CTR cams back in.

I very much appreciate the advice guys. Seems the ARP head studs things is about 50/50 yes/no everywhere I look and I wish it was more yes or more no. I'd feel more comfortable.

IF Haedstuds are NOT necessary at this power level, then I'm much less interested in messing with cams right now. I really only bought the cams because they were priced so well, and later down the road when I decide it's time to build a bottom end... I think they'd be a great addition for a built turbo motor setup. Only reason I would install them now is if I had to remove stock cams anyways, in order to mess with head bolts.

So IF no heads studs... what about just rechecking, or slightly over torquing the stock bolts? Or just leave everything untouched?

shodan I was saying 10psi because I plan to run wastegate pressure with a 10psi spring. Should be pretty accurate way to control boost levels. I can get a 3bar MAP sensor but damn I'm spending $100 hear, there, everywhere on every little thing I want cause I'm kinda OCD about my builds and it's getting freaking outta control for a 320whp build lol

 

My Answers are in BLUE


If the camshafts are already out, why not? why waste time doing it twice?

LIke I said, this, like any other build is dependent upon the maintenance and care of the engine prior to all of this. There WILL BE NO DEFINITE ANSWER to give fuzzy feelings, unfortunately.

Gotcha. For now, leave it alone. keep the camshafts for the upgrade time.

Remember the term "if it ain't broke, don't fix it?". That logic applies now.

I understood what you meant, my friend.. And it does nothing to change my original answer to this question / thought process.

 

Gotcha. Thx man 👍🏼