Dont forget about that one bolt you forgot about that I warned you about a few months ago................ABOUT

 

^^^^ This guy

 

This one, right?

 

 

 

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't your oil cooler supposed to be clocked 90* counter to what it is?

 

Normally, yes. But, not with the Jackson Racing Supercharger. It's mandatory to clock the oil cooler so that the outlets center around the 9 o'clock position in order to get the charger to fit. It doesn't affect the operation but it does require new hoses.

 

He forgot about that...

 

You dicks... one of these days... pow! right in the kisser.

Anyways... Updates!
Update 1
I've been battling a surging idle (fluctuating idle, hunting idle, etc...) I've gone through all the standard procedures but something tells me I need to keep doing them until they work. They're having an affect but not quiet solving the problem.
I've narrowed it down to the IACV and possibly having air in the coolant. I know this because A) the surge occurs at operating temperature (not cold start which is controlled by the FITV), B) plugging the upper hole in my Throttle Body eliminates the surge and reduces the idle, and C) I haven't had a chance to fully bleed the coolant. So, I've removed both the IACV and the FITV for the 100th time and hit them with carb. cleaner and compressed air. Hopefully they're clean now. The O-rings on them are old and looked terrible so I spread a little gasket maker around them while I wait to get the OEM parts. Thankfully there are procedures in the Helms Service Manual and a billion threads and videos on how to resolve the problem so I'll, eventually, get it resolved.

Here's a blurry pic of the IACV on the left and the FITV on the right.



Update 2
I think I may have gotten rid of any other vacuum problems I may have had. We attached a wand to a map gas tank and waived the tip around all the connections and didn't get a surge in idle.

Update 3
The wideband works! Ground planes seem pretty close because my SManager readings and the Gauge readings are similar. When changing the O2 input settings, I noticed I had a large offset (-0.69) in the O2 display. Changing the offset to Zero brought my AFR readings in SManager WAY down so I may not have actually had a lean condition.

Update 4
I STILL have a GOD DAMN oil leak near the crank pulley... ****. There's a chance it's not the oil pan. It could be the seal around the crank. The oil pump is new but there's a chance that I scratched the seal when installing it. I'll have to remove the crank pulley and see if it's leaking from there. That'll have to wait, though. Right now, I just want to get the car idling correctly.

Update 5
Heading back out now to re-bleed the coolant. Wish me luck.

 

There is a chance you have a gouge in your crank at the front main seal.

Iirc the FSM states to push the seal in farther to avoid the gouge.

There are also repair sleeves you can buy to slip over the gouge.

 

Ha ha. Looks like we were both responding at the same time...

How are you bleeding/purging your cooling system?

 

1. Put the front end up in the air.
2. Cracked bleed valve open and added coolant to the radiator until it came out the bleeder in a steady stream.
3. Closed bleed valve.
4. Fit a funnel to my radiator (wrapped it with duct tape to wedge it in and create a seal)
5. Added 50/50 coolant/water to funnel (1/3 filled).
6. Squeezed the upper hose several times to work in the initial fluid.
7. Added more coolant
8. Set heat to high (opened heater core)
9. Started the car and let the car run for two fan cycles while alternating between squeezing the upper and (after thermostat had opened) lower radiator hoses.
10. Turned the car off and let the coolant in the funnel run into the engine/overflow.

There's no air in the coolant. I let it run for about 30 minutes and for the last 5 to 10, nothing bubbled up into the funnel. The car is still surging badly once it reaches operating temps... Maybe I'll post a picture of my datalog.

The base idle (cold and at temperature) is high which might be causing the ECU to cut fuel when it's sensing a closed throttle plate after the car has reached operating temperature. It runs fine after giving it a little throttle but it's very sensitive. The lower throttle body port for the FITV has zero suction that I can feel once the car reaching operating temperature. Plugging the upper hole causes a noticeable decrease in RPM (down to 500? Can't remember. It's in my data logs. I just don't have them with me at the moment.) and the RPM stabilizes. So, the IACV is controlling the surge but I haven't yet determined what's causing the high idle.

Before I mess with the idle screw, I've the following to check out:

1. Look for vacuum leaks (smoke test),
2. Recheck TPS calibration and throttle stop position - We set open and closed values after adjusting the throttle stop position but, maybe they've change or we did something wrong,
3. Re-do ignition timing - I forgot to put the Hondata in standby. For you stock OBD1 guys, you need to jumper your service connector and... ? There should be a sticker under your hood to explain the processes,
4. Add a block breather line - I deleted the PCV system and only have the valve cover breathers. I've a -10 AN fitting in the freeze plug location but I'm not sure if I can use that. I know a lot of people use that as a return. I'm going to try it out but I may have to crack the 14mm hex plugs again... ****.

If all that doesn't solve my high idle and idle fluctuation at temperature problems, I'll test the ECT and try another IACV. Maybe they need replacing. I've got a whole list of diagnostics I'll need to do...

Once I get the car idling, I'll pull the crank pulley and see what's causing the oil leak. Like I said before, I don't think it's the oil pan gasket anymore.

Tonight:
First things first, I gotta make dinner for the wife. After, I was going to try the cigar smoke through brake booster hose method to look for vacuum leaks but, I was able to source a professional smoke tester. So, I'm borrowing that.

 

Hope the V-Day dinner went over well with your woman. Maybe it went so well you never made it out to the garage - that would be good! I was going to say, you should add a snifter of some scotch to the cigar, but then again, you might not make it out to the garage after that!

I'm no professional wrench, but that fact that you don't have a block breather sounds significant to me... I did not follow your links out to the catch can, and I don't really understand how you "breath" a forced induction engine, but I did not know you didn't have a block breather. Not sure if it is the problem, but it does not sound good. And, it may be causing your crank seal to leak oil, eh?

Sounds like the cooling system is bled, but wondering if the lack of a block breather is ******* with you here as well?

 

Yeah... I didn't make it out to the garage last night...

You're right. If my block isn't breathing, it could be causing the leak.

That post didn't contain any links that I added. The ones you're seeing are Ads inserted by the forum software to generate click-through revenue. I can't believe you read that whole post.

 

Sorry, I meant your links earlier in this thread when you describe your thought process for the catch-can setup. It was a good post!

Glad you didn't make it out to the garage if you have a woman to cook dinner for...

 

How did I not notice this when I was trimming the gasket?






OBDII Gasket

OBDI Gasket

 

Holy smokes that leak is a good one.
smoke test is a success.

 

Somehow your smoke test just conjures up images of this:

 

The new Throttle Body Gasket solved my major idle issues. It appears there is still some minor leakage I need to sort out, though. Apparently the H23 TB gasket is the same as the B18C gasket. Thank you Advance Auto Honda Head employee.

 

Good news! What kind of output are we looking at?

 

*yawn*

 

?

The dude is fixing his ****. Always a win in my book...

 

Tony just jealous I fucked his fridge

 

Fridge FTW

 

@Adam, do you need anything for your engine? I'm trying to unload my swap/parts for it...