STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Are you sure it isn't the exhaust moving/hitting further behind you? I was getting something like that with load/unload on shift and it was the entire exhaust hitting the heat shield where it turns before the gas tank. Can you get it to knock when you simple rev it sitting still?
Could it be a motor/tranny mount? Bolts not tight, etc..?
Could it be a motor/tranny mount? Bolts not tight, etc..?
Could this be coming from inside the transmission? Could the oem Torsen LSD have broken or worn teeth, maybe a bearing in the trans? I sure as hell hope not.
Last edited by TheShodan; Sep 26, 2016 at 01:42 PM.
I sure hope not too. I just did a complete tranny teardown.. swapped in LS gears/final drive in a b16 tranny. It wasn't that bad, but it's not something you want to do for just for fun. I imagine it's something else. Bearings normally make an ongoing noise. I can't speak for the LSD however. What about the suspension? I actually had a little bit of a creak/knock after I put the transmission back in the car and finally discovered it was coming from the driver's side suspension. I believe the lower balljoint where the annoying castle nut cotter pin goes.
edit: although I don't know how much you would feel that through the shifter.
edit: although I don't know how much you would feel that through the shifter.
I sure hope not too. I just did a complete tranny teardown.. swapped in LS gears/final drive in a b16 tranny. It wasn't that bad, but it's not something you want to do for just for fun. I imagine it's something else. Bearings normally make an ongoing noise. I can't speak for the LSD however. What about the suspension? I actually had a little bit of a creak/knock after I put the transmission back in the car and finally discovered it was coming from the driver's side suspension. I believe the lower balljoint where the annoying castle nut cotter pin goes.
edit: although I don't know how much you would feel that through the shifter.
edit: although I don't know how much you would feel that through the shifter.
Yep trans came from hmo with the motor. Only 50k miles and it shifts really smooth. I really hope it's not the trans, I don't wanna pull it this soon after getting it together
I take it your outside of the warranty period?
hope its not the trans, my HMO trans has held up perfectly so far...
hope its not the trans, my HMO trans has held up perfectly so far...
I'm doing the scirocco radiator upgrade as well. I cut the entire lower support out and welded a thick 90d angle iron in. Very solid.. anway, can you tell me the thread size and pitch for scirocco temperature switch/hole? It's the one you used with the 6an adapter for coolant supply to turbo. Btw, where do you return your coolant to? Did you just go back to the nipple on the top side of radiator? I'm currently running mine from throttle body but I like that the scirocco has that hole very close to where turbo is. Thanks
I'm doing the scirocco radiator upgrade as well. I cut the entire lower support out and welded a thick 90d angle iron in. Very solid.. anway, can you tell me the thread size and pitch for scirocco temperature switch/hole? It's the one you used with the 6an adapter for coolant supply to turbo. Btw, where do you return your coolant to? Did you just go back to the nipple on the top side of radiator? I'm currently running mine from throttle body but I like that the scirocco has that hole very close to where turbo is. Thanks
http://m.ebay.com/itm/AN6-AN-6-to-M22x1-5-Metric-Straight-Fittings-Oil-Cooler-Adapter-w-Washer-/222234293475?hash=item33be3234e3%3Ag%3AhBMAAMXQQQZR09WU&_trkparms=pageci%253A14d41b62-89cb-11e6-98bf-74dbd1808e78%257Cparentrq%253A8d2207cd1570a60cd5812caaffffe29d%257Ciid%253A2
Well I made it to the track, but it didn't go so well. First pass I broke the passenger side axle. I got bad wheel hop and basically instantly broke an axle. I ran home grabbed some tools, generator, and light and swapped in a spare axle to get me home without a tow. I could have ran again but I decided not to, I need to address this wheel hope issue before trying again. My upper ball joints are pretty worn looking and leaking. I'm going to install new moog upper control arms with es bushings, as well as replace the strut rubber mount in the lower control arm with an es bushing, and replace both lower ball joints with moog replacements. Hopefully this will remove any slop from the front suspension and fix this wheel hop issue. I wish I could run a traction bar too, but my ic piping is in the way. My eg hatch had literally zero wheel hop without traction bars, it just had every bushing replaced with es bushings so hopefully doing the same on the db8 will have similar results.
Photobucket isn't working at the moment for some reason so I'll post pics of the fail later.
Photobucket isn't working at the moment for some reason so I'll post pics of the fail later.
Last edited by boosted94gsr; Oct 4, 2016 at 01:47 PM.
Thanks for the info about the plug, btw.. I picked up a vw fan switch to simply plug the hole since I've already got my turbo coolant lines plumed.
Sorry to hear about the axle.. Could you go with the innovative mounts crossmember instead of traction bar? Btw, I got a steal on amazon prime for $190.. ordered it Friday and it was at my door Sunday. I checked back and the price was back up to $260 so I guess I got a good deal
That's what I'm using in the CRX (for space reasons) and it feels better that the oem crossmember and drops down low (maybe a little too low), but it helped me a lot for my intercooler piping. I had enough room to go directly from turbo to intercooler (under the stock radiator support). Although now, I'm changing this entirely because the bend was too sharp so I yanked the windshield washer bottle, cut a hole in the side wall, and running a U bend around back to intercooler.
Did you ever figure out the knock sound? Do you think you had some play in the axle/suspension that was causing that?
Sorry to hear about the axle.. Could you go with the innovative mounts crossmember instead of traction bar? Btw, I got a steal on amazon prime for $190.. ordered it Friday and it was at my door Sunday. I checked back and the price was back up to $260 so I guess I got a good deal
That's what I'm using in the CRX (for space reasons) and it feels better that the oem crossmember and drops down low (maybe a little too low), but it helped me a lot for my intercooler piping. I had enough room to go directly from turbo to intercooler (under the stock radiator support). Although now, I'm changing this entirely because the bend was too sharp so I yanked the windshield washer bottle, cut a hole in the side wall, and running a U bend around back to intercooler.Did you ever figure out the knock sound? Do you think you had some play in the axle/suspension that was causing that?
Thanks for the info about the plug, btw.. I picked up a vw fan switch to simply plug the hole since I've already got my turbo coolant lines plumed.
Sorry to hear about the axle.. Could you go with the innovative mounts crossmember instead of traction bar? Btw, I got a steal on amazon prime for $190.. ordered it Friday and it was at my door Sunday. I checked back and the price was back up to $260 so I guess I got a good deal
That's what I'm using in the CRX (for space reasons) and it feels better that the oem crossmember and drops down low (maybe a little too low), but it helped me a lot for my intercooler piping. I had enough room to go directly from turbo to intercooler (under the stock radiator support). Although now, I'm changing this entirely because the bend was too sharp so I yanked the windshield washer bottle, cut a hole in the side wall, and running a U bend around back to intercooler.
Did you ever figure out the knock sound? Do you think you had some play in the axle/suspension that was causing that?
Sorry to hear about the axle.. Could you go with the innovative mounts crossmember instead of traction bar? Btw, I got a steal on amazon prime for $190.. ordered it Friday and it was at my door Sunday. I checked back and the price was back up to $260 so I guess I got a good deal
That's what I'm using in the CRX (for space reasons) and it feels better that the oem crossmember and drops down low (maybe a little too low), but it helped me a lot for my intercooler piping. I had enough room to go directly from turbo to intercooler (under the stock radiator support). Although now, I'm changing this entirely because the bend was too sharp so I yanked the windshield washer bottle, cut a hole in the side wall, and running a U bend around back to intercooler.Did you ever figure out the knock sound? Do you think you had some play in the axle/suspension that was causing that?
No kidding lol. Maybe some day I'll switch to a backdoor ic setup with a garrett core. Can't wait to get a tig welder someday. It will make a lot more things possible.
Nice looks good man. Didn't you build your own manifold? You tig weld? I'm hoping to pickup a tig setup in the future.







