Ekinchheng

Looking good. On the hondata are you using the pwm boost option? I'm debating if its useful than buying a manual boost controller.

2kdrift

He said hes using BBG on first post. Yes of course its useful

ls joker

Youtube- haltech closed loop vs open loop boost control

2kdrift

cool thanks for the info, I had my BBG in closed loop yesterday for the first time and it was spooling like crazy

boosted94gsr

I'm not running hondata I'm using Neptune rtp, but yes I'll be running bbg with a basic 3 port mac valve.

ls joker

All the recent talk of closed loop boost, got me itchin

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Damn! Wish I had that motivation haha. Tuning it yourself?

boosted94gsr

You should give bbg a shot man. Imo it's so nice to just mash the gas and hook. No thinking about it or feathering the throttle just hooks and goes.

Yessir I'll be doing the tuning.

ls joker

Im ordering parts. Getting a push lock setup aswell

jasperdeea90

Great progress so far man!
Thanks for sharing :up:
What kind/brand of paint are you using for your engine bay?

boosted94gsr

Hell yeah man!

Good Ol rustoleum out of a rattle can. I sprayed my last bay with it and it held up great. I painted the body of my last hatch with rustoleum thinned with acetone sprayed out of a hvlp gun and it held up really well too.

boosted94gsr

All the door jams are done. They turned out really good, but I'm glad that is over with. Took forever lol.




Fuel pump is in.



10g wire and inline fuse to hard wire the fuel pump. I think 10g might be a little over kill lol. I might actually step it down to 12g wiring...



Fresh OEM headgasket for when I install the arp head studs. I was considering just installing the headstuds one at a time without removing the head. I've heard of a lot of people having success doing it that way, but I picked this up to do it "the right way" lol. I might still try the one stud at a time thing, but leaning towards just replacing the gasket.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Replace the gasket.... Done right the 1st time, if you're gonna do it...

(I admit, I have never changed to ARPs on stock turbo engine until I had a second engine block sleeved and built, while driving the 1st)..

boosted94gsr

Yeah you're probably right...

I just get nervous pushing north of 300whp with stock headstuds

Aradin

Meh. I do it on 100% stock H/F series all the time but they do have more surface area. As long as the timing isn't way out of wack they should be good. Too much retard will pop one quick.

It's really a good idea on any boosted engine though. Cheap insurance/peace of mind at least.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It won't help much without the rest of the internals done anyway. But remember, I was too young to think of doing this in 1999. 320whp was just fine even with archaic management that made CROME look like it came from NASA.

boosted94gsr

Car is now satin black. I made a makeshift paint booth in my garage by hanging tarps all the way around it lol. The last coat could have turned out better, I ended up with a few spots with orange peal. I had my paint gun or air pressure set wrong on my paint gun, because when I painted the hood and trunk on my wrx the paint was as smooth as glass. I am definitely not a professional painter I just like to do diy as much stuff as possible. I will probably wet sand and maybe even spray a satin clear coat over the top. Not sure yet and I'm not too worried about because I'd rather get this thing on the road asap. Besides I build 30 foot cars anyway. From 30 feet you'd be like damn that's clean, at 5 feet it's like Ahhh I see what you did there lol.

jasperdeea90

Came out pretty sweet,
DIY, FTW

boosted94gsr

Thanks man!

scottcraft

That black looks pretty good!

boosted94gsr

I went with the TR10 intercooler instead of the TR8 like I originally planned on. At least it's better then the cheap *** Chinese eBay intercooler I ran on my hatch lol.






I decided to go with a tucked scirocco radiator. Will work on mounting it as soon as I get some spare time.




-6an drain adapter for the water lines on the turbo



Went with a speedfactory filler neck instead of running an inline filler. Should make it easier to get all the air out of the cooling system plus it looks really clean. Also got a BWR solid shift bushing to compliment the solid ipg shift bushing I got with my k tuned shifter.



12" SPAL puller fan rated at 1328cfm.



Got a question for you guys about the fan wiring. SPAL says this fan pulls 14.2 amps, will the factory wiring be sufficient or should I hard wire it with a relay and inline fuse?

Aradin

Wish I could get moving on a build this fast. Looking good so far.

2kdrift

I used a relay on mine i figured I might get more performance out of it and the relay was cheap........i think the stock fuse is 30 or 40 amp? so you should be fine

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Use the 40 amp fuse, please

boosted94gsr

40 amp fuse with the stock wiring or hard wired to battery with a relay and 40 amp inline fuse?