Using whatever OEM part combos available from any car manufacturer.
All needs to be replacable, and fit the purpouse, however sometimes wheels are to be reinvented!

I am looking for 55F/45R % weight distribution, and stock ride height.
Shocks from Lude / Accord 1990-91 3td gen. Should fit P&P but worried travel only 2"+, realy not enough.
4th gen civic, has 4.5" travel, but too long, will need to add extended top cap to keep travel,
Spring 4th gen Civic, have the needed length/rate. But yet again we will see.
Rear sway bar, will be mounted exactly 5 inches back and from the back side of the LCA to avoid the dif and shafts.
Adjusted the ride height in the back, will go for the front as there is plenty more options.
However there is always the option to improvise and stack a Toyota BALL joint in bolt on bracket to TA and... to many ideas for a minute to describe...

As run a B18c on K series ECU with OEM B mapping and gain ABS/VSA/TCS/ and whatever it has to offer from a 2008 CRV in a matter of safety.

was reading your post on the dif.

I´d rather stick to the wet as in OEM, following logically designed unit, simple improvve where it fails.
It is an assist unit, and as everything under pressure it heats up, thats what basic termodynamic law says.

It is a common missunderstanding of the rear Dif fail reasons. It fails because is designed as an assist unit, not as a robust 4WD Dif with central locking 40kg heavy unit...

So what we do?
Release the heat, and you are good to go for a longer period.
Under street acceleration you need the thing to work for how long, not more than 15-30 minutes? keep it cool and you have it.
now bear in mind all modern 4wds shut at 45-50mph and go 2wd.

Air will dry out something designed to be in Trans liquid. will burn out very quickly.

1. Build the pressure in the circuit, using a 10-20% stiffer spring on the release valve
2. Find a way to Bypass the heat actuated switch off valve.(only later models?)
Option A (I do not like it as will boil the pack anyway). Replace with Heat Safety Valve to actuating at a Higher temp unit but not more than +10 degrees C
Option B Add a Radiator from AT at return line. OEM front Autotrans units are designed to work under samilar pressure.
3. if you want a switch on-of-Auto, instead of air pack, add a MR2 EHPS unit, to add + pressure to the circuit. Shematics are quite simple to wire, basicaly uses available sensor signals in engine bay, And this thing is speed sensitive! will react upon speed!
4. what is done so far you can keep, only need to change the piping and pass few cables arround, and if you look under the car, you will find ventilated space to fit the pump oposite side of the exhaust pipes. and gain extra weight in the back for better balance.

 

Ya, I am wondering how long the rear diff is going to last under the conditions for which I am wanting to utilize it. I gutted the pumps in the diff, so there really isn't much to circulate the fluid at this point. The fluid no longer has to move through all the tiny circuits to perform any work. That right there should relieve the system of a bit of heat. The fluid's only function at this point is to lubricate the turning parts and to aid in the locking of the clutches while dispersing some heat. Once the clutches are locked, (within 3-4 seconds) there is no longer any friction. When the air locker is off, the clutches should spin freely from one another producing little to no friction in theory. It sounds good on paper, but that may all change with a few launches and some miles down the highway. Fortunately there are a lot of these units readily available and for relatively cheap. I'm sure I will just pick up another soon just to have a spare. Maybe then I will toy with the idea of installing a cooler on it.

 

As far from the Honda manual, Clutchpacks fail when there is no liquid in the dif, needs to be replaced.
A guess is the liqiud what cools also the clutches.
The "micro-clutches" have very thin pads that go off as soon as dry.
Check this thread for EHPS, Wiring and Build with all the parts needed.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-r...edone-2528249/
Rise pressure sill thou keep stock fluids in the Diff. Only need to add the Cooler device on a compact design. and good to go. On the long run is cheaper than changing clutch pack after every 100 launches.
In my plans time a go was to use the above setup for steering. Further I may need help to get one of these EHPS pumps, the MR2 is rather exotic car in Bulgaria.
Wish you luck, and hope my prediction is far from true.

 

Finally got the brackets from Fastbrakes and picked up a set of Brembos for the front. Took them some time to make and they ended up scrapping the first design and redoing them. Came out pretty nice though I might say, and they seem to be very secure and safe which was my main concern. I will end up having to use spacers for my wheels as they just barely make contact with the outside of the calipers. I'm thinking a 5mm spacer should do the trick, and won't move the wheels out too dramatically. Had to have some new SS lines made for the Brembos, which Parker Hose put together in about 10 minutes for me. Also picked up some rear calipers from an ITR/RSX. Just to give me a little more pad surface area on the rear. Looks like I will end up powder coating the calipers. I looked into that Neo Chrome, and DAUMN.... It's a bit pricey.




















Looks like the rear trailing arms will be changing hands once again. The girlfriend's bro and I had a little falling out. Meeting up with an old colleague of mine next week to see if he can replicate what has been done with the finished trailing arm and fab up some brackets for the calipers. He has a bit of experience with fabrication and welding and he is very reliable, so this will hopefully get done now. Till then...

 

NICE look! that Porshe is a bit off the topic but still COOL!

changing a bit topic,
Fuel tank,
I have to sand blast my RTSI tank on Saturday but cannot take the one in the car out yet. So don´t know if the RTSI (or Wagon) tank fits without disturbing the diff, at first glance is about 1,5-2" taller on the hump than the one in the car.
was wondering either make Aluminim one with 6th gen dimensions but with a chunk underneath. Or maybe 2 pieces connected thru 2" pipe at top and run 2 fuel pumps.
I want to keep the OEM structural rigidity and so on, avoid cut welding floor panel under the back seats.

Any toughts?

 

been planning on using those front calipers myself. just need to find a suitable 5lug rotor

 

was wondering either make Aluminim one with 6th gen dimensions but with a chunk underneath. Or maybe 2 pieces connected thru 2" pipe at top and run 2 fuel pumps.
I want to keep the OEM structural rigidity and so on, avoid cut welding floor panel under the back seats.

Any toughts?[/QUOTE]

I am struggling with this myself. The plan is to try to utilize the CR-V fuel tank in some capacity. We don't have a lot of AWD Honda options over here, so the CR-V is the only thing close to what would work. I also do not want to cut the flooring out of the Civic. I was thinking if needed, maybe I could cut where the rear seats are and maybe raise it up a couple of inches to fit the tank. Not that anyone ever sits in the back of the Civic, but I would still like to keep the interior looking normal. Don't really want it looking like there are booster seats in the rear. My problem is that I like my car low to the ground, so clearance will be a major factor in decided where I mount the rear differential. The higher up I have to go with it, the less room I have for a fuel tank under the car. I am running E85 fuel, so if anything I want a bigger fuel tank and not a smaller one. Worst case scenario, I will incorporate a fuel cell in the spare tire area of the trunk where my full size spare and battery currently reside.

Check out Wilwood. They have all kinds of options.

 

I am struggling with this myself. The plan is to try to utilize the CR-V fuel tank in some capacity. We don't have a lot of AWD Honda options over here, so the CR-V is the only thing close to what would work. I also do not want to cut the flooring out of the Civic. I was thinking if needed, maybe I could cut where the rear seats are and maybe raise it up a couple of inches to fit the tank. Not that anyone ever sits in the back of the Civic, but I would still like to keep the interior looking normal. Don't really want it looking like there are booster seats in the rear. My problem is that I like my car low to the ground, so clearance will be a major factor in decided where I mount the rear differential. The higher up I have to go with it, the less room I have for a fuel tank under the car. I am running E85 fuel, so if anything I want a bigger fuel tank and not a smaller one. Worst case scenario, I will incorporate a fuel cell in the spare tire area of the trunk where my full size spare and battery currently reside.

[/QUOTE:]
1995+ awd
​civic wagon, shuttle rt, beagle.
All above are the same car different regions/yeras
All the tanks have easy fit under the car, look narrower.
However you can always lift a bit rear seats.
If I have to make new fuel cell, would fit where the tank goes. Need the spare tire space for the extra storage.

 

Apologies for this being such a slow project, I guess I warned everyone though that it would be. Been a bit busy lately and am at kind of a "stuck" point right now. I did meet with an old colleague of mine, discussed what my goals are with the rear trailing arms, and he has agreed to take over with building them. No BS this time. I told him that I want to pay for his services and get these damn things done. No more friend/family discounts. Before I bring him all of the parts though, thought I'd do a little test fit in the garage with the one semi finished trailing arm. I thought maybe I could get an idea of where the rear diff is going to line up, but I can't get the Civic up high enough in the garage. The fuel tank needs to go to really see where the diff will end up. I'll have to wait till I can get the Civic over to my buddy's place and onto his lift. So, not much of an update, and not many pics. The project is continuing on, so don't get discouraged. (Me really talking to myself there)

Yes I know, I need to clean the garage.

Those posts are from the battery box in the spare tire area.

Hopefully I will have some good news in a week or so. That's all for now. Thanks for checking in!

 

My car hasn't run since Thanksgiving, so I think youre doing fine.

 

No worries, I roll on the company's car since Xmas...
Engine and gearbox in the basement.
All suspension bolts are left loose to not worn the bushings. You should consider doing so if you gonna have the babe suspended for a while.
It is a build, you should worry only when it start going too fast. Then something will be really wrong.

 

HAPPY, HAPPY, JOY, JOY... Pretty excited about these trailing arms. My buddy came through and got them done. He even took a few pictures of the progress knowing that I couldn't be around to help. I just had to let him do his thing. It's tough letting other people work on your car when you are the one that has pretty much built, or rebuilt, it from the ground up. He lives kind of far from me though and I have had to put my efforts into my education. I may have to tweak a couple of things here and there, and add some brackets for the brake lines, but that is about it. He made some nice brackets for the calipers, got the emergency brake cables fitted, and worked in the inner carrier brackets for the wheel bearing assemblies. In hindsight, I wish we had "clocked" the carrier brackets a little more. It's going to be a tight fit with the bottom bolt and the bolt for the lower control arm being so close together. We ended up cutting off the threaded part for the LCA bolt and moving it to the other side of the arm to give the bolts some room. My buddy even made a sweet jig for these arms that he ended up giving me. The way he set it up, both left and right arms can be made on the same jig. Just remove a bolt and turn upper mounting bar around. Nifty, but I hope I never have to use it again. God forbid someone T-bones me. Most likely a total loss at that point anyways.















Can finally move ahead with Project Game Changer! The plan now is to put these trailing arms back on the Civic and give it a few test drives. I want to make sure there isn't any rubbing, funny noises, odd driving characteristics, and anything falling apart. I will also finally get to see what the SBXM trans has to offer and how much different the gearing will be from the LS that I have grown to love. Once everything is running smoothly, I can start setting up the rear end, figure out the fuel tank situation, and driveline. Getting EXCITED

 

They look fantastic! Great job!

 

Very nice! I can't wait to see this thing in action!

 

I wish someone around could use the tig like that.
Good job.

The LS 5th fits the XBSM tranny, but you will need to grind it.
Countershaft on the main bearing side has specific dimensions, no other tranny has this size bearing, so it makes it tricky to swap final drive.
Comparing OEM references this gearbox is a summer mix, example 2nd gear has sinchros for D series.
Someone wrote about swapping in H/F internals, and that was the easiest way.
In the prelude forum look for a post for the gear ratios by tranny codes.
Wish you luck,
By the way DarryCar,
Are you planing to move back the rear shock towers?

 

Thank you, I'll pass the complement along. I think they turned out awesome. Kind of digging the "Frankenstein" look.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, neither can I...

Nope, do not want to mess with the structural integrity nor go through all of the hassle of doing that. The plan for now is to mount the rear diff forward of the rear subframe. This obviously will totally change the angle for which the axles exit the diff and enter the wheel bearing assemblies, maybe even too much. But by doing this I can avoid hacking into the rear subframe and the body in order to make room for the diff. This should also give me enough clearance to where the axles do not make contact with the struts. A downside is that this takes up more space in the fuel tank area leaving little room for anything other than a custom fuel cell. This of course is just the plan, V 1.0 of the rear diff set up. It has been done this way before and proven to work, though I will be running a bit more torque and horsepower on my set-up. The plan is to get it to work, and then see what doesn't work.

 

Be carefull moving too much the diff to the front
1. this will limit the exles movement angles. therefore will bent excesivelly when suspension is compressed, Torque applied is no longer rotational twist, but a vector twist more prone to snap as designed to rotate not to bent. this is the main untold reason where all previous swaps reported breaking an Axle, curiously the right one as is 2 incehes shorter.
2. You will have to shorten the drive shaft, remember your car has same wheel base as the CRV. moving diff forward leave no other option.
3. anyway you will need to make space for the diff and cut trough the rear beam otherwise Diff stays or to low or too up front, refering 1 & 2.
4. If you have kept the stock 6 gen trailing arm geometry, you don't have to worry. If you have used the wagon Point to attach the LCA, you have already messed up geometry of LCA therefore Shock absorber is tilted backward, instead of leaned forward as chassis repair shematics. you will need to replace bushings more than often, eventually shocks beacause of unapropiate operational position.
5. point 4 leads to reposition rear beam and shock tower points to keep close to the stock geometry angles for best handling.
Here some screen shots of shematics for your chassis, you will need this.

SIDE

TOP

I am making some house repairs at the moment, and as finish will be back on Project CAR, this will be by the end of the summer. will gladly help more.
hope you don't mind my diferent point of view.
cheers.
A.

 

Ya I'm not trying to get too technical with this build. I'm more of a doer rather than a thinker. A nieanderthal if you will. If I sat around thinking about how perfect everything needs to be, I would never make any progress on it. Basically I am somewhat "throwing" this together to see what works and what doesn't. As things brake, I will improve up the design. I don't mind changing things up as I go. It's not like this is my daily driver and has to be perfect the first time around. If I wanted that I would just go purchase an Evo or STI. Where's the fun in that? Trial and error is how this thing will ultimately come together. I chose to use the trailing arms from my Civic and graph in the section of the CR-V trailing arms that the wheel bearing assemblies bolt to. A jig was made so that none of the attaching points of the Civic trailing arms moved and the geometry remained unchanged. Actually just installed them on the Civic and it's all lining up very well. Only question now is how well the rear alignment comes in.

 

Visited the local Pick-N-Pull and got myself a CR-V fuel tank. Damn thing is a monster, so having my doubts about it actually fitting under the Civic. Got the fuel sender and wire harness with the factory plugs. Also picked up the blank rear cv axle hubs to hold the wheel bearing assemblies together while I am still FWD. Gotta love those pick and pulls....











I really have no idea how much room is under the Civic. I know the CR-V fuel tank is slightly larger than the Civic, so if I have to trim some fat off of it to get it to fit, it may be worth it in the sense that I will be able to run the fuel pump in the factory set-up, be able to use the factory fuel fill site, have the tank under the car, and be able to keep the trunk space, and have the battery remain in the rear. If it's going to take a ton of chopping and fabricating of the CR-V tank that ends up netting me a capacity of 6 gallons of fuel, I may give up all of the factoriness of the Civic that I REALLY want to keep and go with a fuel cell. I really won't know for sure until I get the Civic over to my buddy's place and on a lift. Doing a fuel cell means a complete overhaul and upgrade of the fuel system. Things should begin to move quite a bit faster with this project now that the rear trailing arms are ready to go as long as there are no major set backs (crossing my fingers while I type this). I'll get these RTAs on and take this baby for a ride soon. I ended up revamping the brake system too while I was added. Installed a 1" MC from a GSR and a prop valve from a '99 SI. That with new front and rear calipers, pads, and rotors should make things interesting. MORE TO COME!!

 

Rear trailing arms are back on the Civic and I finally got to pull her out of the garage. All this time and work and she is back to being FWD. Everything sounds and feels fine with the trailing arms, so pretty happy with them. E-brakes rear calipers are working properly and it looks like it will all come into alignment without any issues. My first impression of the CR-V was a good one. I haven't driven the Civic for quite a while, so it's not like I can tell a night and day difference from the gearing of the LS. I feel that I am running out of gear quicker in 1st though, but I was expecting that. I don't have tags or insurance on the Civic at the moment, so I was not able to get her out on the highway to see how 5th feels. The cable shifting will take a little getting used to. It doesn't feel quite as tight at the linkage set-up. I can see running into issues with hard shifts especially in 2-3 and even 4-5 shifts. Even though I installed a short shift kit on this, it feels like it needs a short shifter kit installed on it. I can't imaging how it would have felt if I had not put one in. Probably something like driving a big rig. As far as the height of the shifter is concerned, I can deal with it. It sits just a little higher than the factory set-up that was in there. Not going to concern myself too much with that for now. I am having an issue with my brakes of course. Think I changed too many components at one time. Feels like I have to stand on the brake pedal to get the Civic to stop. I went cheap and got an aftermarket booster. I'm wondering if I should have not messed with the adjustment for the pushrod. I'll have to mess around with that. The Civic also stalls out when I go from WOT to slamming on the brakes to a complete stop. I'll need to check wiring, sensors, and for air leaks. It's all the little things. I don't feel much of a difference with the new bigger billet compressor wheel in the turbo. If anything it feels like it is lacking a little bit of pep, but that just may be me. That may be something that is only noticed after a retune. So some issues, but in all it was good to knock some of the dust off of the Civic and I am happy with how the rear trailing arms turned out. I will work on solving these issues and then it will be time to tackle the rear end set-up.

Minor tweaking of the rear calipers.



A little shimming to get the brackets right



Some minor grinding of the caliper bracket. Mounting bolts where scraping the rotor.



A bracket for a bracket

Extended studs back in...







Looks centered.

Good fit!



Have to fab up some brackets for the brake lines

Not sure what it going on here. Pad is not fully engaging the rotor for some reason.







Rear wheels ended up back in the same location.

 

I figured out my stalling issue when braking, which was also the reason the throttle was hesitating and jerky. When looking at all of the sensor signals through Smanager, I would see the TPS signal drop out when these issues began to happen. I ended up throwing in a new TPS sensor, but that didn't fix it. Found out it was the signal wire at the ECU that has a shady connection. Easy fix. Also played around with the brakes and the pushrod in the booster. I adjusted it too far in and after a little test drive, the brakes locked up on me and I couldn't move the Civic. Had a nice little mile hike home in the Arizona heat to grab my tools. Drove my truck back to the Civic, loosened up the pushrod, drove the Civic home, and then took my beach cruiser back to get my truck. Could have been worse. Next time I will take my tools with me. That damn pushrod has very little room for adjustment. Too far in and your brakes are locking up on you. Too far out and it doesn't feel like you have any brakes at all. Wish I had just sprung for an OEM booster. The stupid booster I got came in a primer gray too. Who has a gray brake booster under their hood?? I had to paint the damn thing black! Anyways, just working out the little bugs and then I will be bringing the Civic over to my buddy's place to use his lift and start setting up the rear end. That's my update for now.

 

I believe the fuel tank you need looks similar to this

 

^^^Is that tank from an RTSI? I don't even know how to get a hold of one of those unless I have it shipped from another country. I wouldn't want to pay the $$ and go through all of the hassle without even knowing for sure if it will work. I think it will still be too much tank. The RTSI is somewhat lifted giving the car more ground clearance. I like the Civic low, which means I will have to stuff the rear diff up higher into the fuel tank area. I will soon find out how much space I have to work with. The CR-V tank I just picked up only cost me $50, so if it doesn't work out I'm not that deep in the hole.

 

Honda Domani, I guess its the RTI model. Yeah thats why I pointed the difference between the crv and the domani rti tank. It uses a dual pump because of that upside down canyon, I guess I'll call it that, is much deeper than the crv which allows you to run the shaft all the way back. I actually saw an image of someone actually lowering the rear diff and I did not like it at all. It was a 2dr coupe with the awd system from a b-series I think.

 

@OP

Sir,

I just registered to say:

Hats off to you!

Great job!

Faruk
P.S. Looking for some inspiration and ideas for an eventual 2006 FD1 (JDM civic) to AWD, full CFRP body kit (mugen advanced RR kinda thing) shenanigans.