The rubber plastic stopper is intact. It does have a hole in it though.

Here is what I had done.

Disconnecting clutch switch A, I took a paperclip and mulitmeter to test if there was any activity. When putting the car in neutral, pressing the clutch to release the switch on clutch B, and holding the multimeter connectors to the pins, the reader went from 1 ohms to 10-12 ohms. After turning the key back to non starting possible, the ohms went back down to 1. I tested this four times so I assume that means that there is continuity in clutch switch A.

I did the exact same thing to clutch switch B. Using a paperclip, I tested the ohms with probes and holding the button down clutch switch A (After reconnecting the switch back on). The reader went from 1 ohms to 0. After turning the key off, the reader flashed a series of random numbers for a seconds then went back to 0. I assume that Clutch Switch B has NO continuity.

There is no clicking from the starter solenoid at all.

While typing this, I think that my next test would involve using two paper clips on each of the switches to see if that would start the car. Thoughts?

 

Don't short any switches. Short the two pins of the unplugged connector for switch A. Then try to start the car.
No need to press the clutch.



Haha...the stopper is not intact and likely is not functioning.

 

Errr sorry. I ment to say that I shorted the connectors, not the switches. The switches were not connected to anything, thus would not provide a current at all. Sorry about that.

As far as the connectors go, there is a 12 ohm current that appears when connector A is shorted with a safety pin and turning of the key in the ignition.

Connector B has no ohm at all when I short it and turn the key.

Ah, I meant to say that the stopper was present (thought intact meant the same thing).

So, connector A has activity while connector B does not. Is connector B required to start the car or just connector A?

BTW shorting either of the connector still does not result in the starting of the car or powering of the solenoid. Still will only start when jumping the starter directly to the positive terminal

 

If the stopper has a hole in it, then it's not intact.

Focus completely on switch A and its connector.

Why would you Ohm test the connector pins? Instead measure voltage to body ground at each individual pin in connector A with the key held in ON(III). Post the readings matched to the wire color attached to each pin.

 

I tested it because that is what I read online. I am completely new to electrical so I am learning as I go lol. So I should not use the voltage meter to test the connector pins. Instead, I should measure voltage to body ground at each of the individual pins? What does that mean exactly? The connector has two wires, one green and one black. Do I just use my mulitmeter and touch the wire directly or am I using the black probe to touch an unpainted part of the car while I use the red to test an individual pin? Sorry if I sound stupid but this is like performing surgery over the phone lol

 

Set the multimeter to read DC voltage. Touch the red lead to one pin and the black lead to the metal frame under the dash. Repeat for second pin.

 

Is this set right? To test using DCV

 

Dial one notch down to the 20 DCV position.

 

Awesome. I will test the voltage once I get some light and another hand (it is almost midnight). I will post the results here ASAP. Thanks a ton.

 

Well then I stand corrected, I'll take your word on it.

 

If you still have some lingering doubts, unplug all ECU connectors and turn the key to ON(III). What's the outcome?

 

Alright so I tested the voltage using DC on the connector pins on switch A. Here are the results:

Black Wire: 0 to 1 DCV
Green Wire: 0 to 12 DCV

Each tested four times and when the key was held in ON(III)

 

You have power at the switch connector.

Plug it back into the switch.

Turn key to ON(III) with clutch pedal depressed.

Do you hear the starter solenoid click?

If not, check whether the battery is dead.

By the way, the hot wire you tested should be Blu/Blk, not Grn.

 

Plugged connector back in. No crank. Starter solenoid is not clicking. Only sound is fuel pump turning on. Battery is good.

You are right. I went back under and saw that it is blue, not green.

 

The wire should be blue with a black stripe.

Convince that your battery is not dead. Start by measuring voltage between the two battery connectors.

Also put the transmission in neutral and then do this test:

 

The DCV between the battery is 12.74.

That is exactly what I do to start the car. Whenever i use jumper wire from the positive terminal to the solenoid terminal, the car starts. That test turns the car on. I am trying to figure out why my car does not turn on without using that method

The car runs when I jump the starter. I am trying to figure out why I can't start the car normally

 

It's rare for the relay to go bad, so either the red or green shaded section of wire is probably broken.

 

How would I go about fixing that? From the diagram, it looks like the green wires are within the engine compartment and the red are in the dash?

 

The wires are on the far left under the dash and in the engine bay. You can run new wires, if you can't find the break and fix it. While you're under the dash, also remove the relay and test it.

 

Oh, the green and red wires are the same wire but going from dash to engine bay? Which relay is it?

 

Update: Checked starter relay. Was not clicking. Replaced with a newer one. Car starts up right away. Problem solved! Thanks all for the help