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My car one day just decided not to start. The lights on the dashboard would turn on but the starter would not crank over. I decided to replace the starter. After doing so, my 1995 honda civic refused to crank over. Taking a spare wire, I decided to take a spare wire and connect the starter directly to the positive terminal while the car was in the on position. The car started up right away. What could be my problem? I heard it might be my neutral clutch sensor. Any thoughts? I really don't want to carry around a wire every time I want to start my car.
You can verify this by checking the appropriate pin near the ecu with a multimeter.
Look up honda obd1 ecu pin out. I don't remember which type of switch it is, but you should see a change when taking it from park to reverse, KOEO.
IIRC, the auto also requires the brake to be pressed to start, which means you'll also want to check the brake switch connection at the ECU.
Check that there's continuity from the battery to the starter. Check all fuses, check relays.
It is a manual. Are you telling me to take the ecu out and try the pins to check for an electrical current? That would be hard to do since the car does not start on its own unless I take that spare wire and touch it between the positive terminal and the starter. That is the only way it will start. Also, how do you check for continuity? I am very new to electrical automotive
The ECU is not "in the loop" as far as deciding whether or not the starter will turn. The circuit goes directly from the key switch to a clutch pedal switch and relay then to the starter.
The clutch pedal has a switch at the very top of the pedal arm. When you push the pedal all the way down, the switch is pressed and the starter is enabled. The problem usually is the rubber pad attached to the arm which presses the switch. It's the same as the one on the brake pedal that presses the brake light switch. When the pad falls apart, the switch does not get pressed and the starter won't work.
You can unplug the switch and put a jumper wire in the plug then try to start.
Note if the car is an EX etc. with cruise control there is also another switch lower down on the clutch pedal. That switch drops out the cruise control when you start to press the clutch. It doesn't have anything to do with starting.
And this is why you put car details (manual or automatic? DX or EX? Modified or stock?) in the FIRST post.
The ECU is not "in the loop" as far as deciding whether or not the starter will turn. The circuit goes directly from the key switch to a clutch pedal switch and relay then to the starter.
The clutch pedal..
Perhaps I am mistaken, I haven't reviewed the whole schmatics relating to this recently, but I don't see many other reasons for the ecu to have the PNSS pin. Clutch I can understand maybe for A/C cut or something, brake to idle up if you're on the brakes maybe.. maybe it idles up when you're in park due to TC friction but PNSS doesn't discriminate between P and N, so not sure about that either.
As far as I'm aware, both clutch safety and PNSS both come from the ecu, thru the switch to ground. If you mean the ecu is not "in the loop" as it doesn't use any other variables, sure...but I'm pretty darn sure that you can't make the starter turn without an ecu in the car if the switch itself was grounded, assuming no other factors you'd still have to do some crazy wiring..
And the OP mentioned a PNSS, so I assume auto. But yes, you should post vehicle details!
The ECU is not "in the loop" as far as deciding whether or not the starter will turn. The circuit goes directly from the key switch to a clutch pedal switch and relay then to the starter.
The clutch pedal has a switch at the very top of the pedal arm. When you push the pedal all the way down, the switch is pressed and the starter is enabled. The problem usually is the rubber pad attached to the arm which presses the switch. It's the same as the one on the brake pedal that presses the brake light switch. When the pad falls apart, the switch does not get pressed and the starter won't work.
You can unplug the switch and put a jumper wire in the plug then try to start.
Note if the car is an EX etc. with cruise control there is also another switch lower down on the clutch pedal. That switch drops out the cruise control when you start to press the clutch. It doesn't have anything to do with starting.
And this is why you put car details (manual or automatic? DX or EX? Modified or stock?) in the FIRST post.
Ah ic ic. Thank you for the input. Yeah, I did not think about putting in more details on the car. It is an LX 1.5 non-vtec manual, full stock. So, the problem has to do with the circuit between the key switch and clutch pedal or pedal to relay? I will check the clutch pedal switch right now
Look on the floor board under the steering wheel for a circular piece of black plastic. The clutch switch needs to be depressed by a small piece of rubber that is connected to the pedal arm. The clutch switch is on a bracket and the rubber piece is on the pedal arm
I believe the top switch is for the clutch depression for the starter. I had to jump mine because it's impossible to replace the bushing without taking out the pedal assembly
To jump the switch disconnect the plug to it, and place a piece of wire in each pin. Basically you are connecting the two pins to connect the wires to tell the car that the switch is good and complete the electrical connection to start the car
It would also be a good time to replace the ones on the brake pedal and the other on the clutch because they tend to fail in the summer
Look on the floor board under the steering wheel for a circular piece of black plastic. The clutch switch needs to be depressed by a small piece of rubber that is connected to the pedal arm. The clutch switch is on a bracket and the rubber piece is on the pedal arm
I believe the top switch is for the clutch depression for the starter. I had to jump mine because it's impossible to replace the bushing without taking out the pedal assembly
To jump the switch disconnect the plug to it, and place a piece of wire in each pin. Basically you are connecting the two pins to connect the wires to tell the car that the switch is good and complete the electrical connection to start the car
It would also be a good time to replace the ones on the brake pedal and the other on the clutch because they tend to fail in the summer
Awesome. In the meantime, is it safe to jump it the way I do and keep driving it? I take a spare wire and just connect the starter to the positive cable to get the car running. I do not leave it on. Asking because I am worried about my car.
Awesome. In the meantime, is it safe to jump it the way I do and keep driving it? I take a spare wire and just connect the starter to the positive cable to get the car running. I do not leave it on. Asking because I am worried about my car.
You should be fine to do it that way for now, just make sure the connections are good or they could spark and weld stuff and make damn sure you don't ground your jumper wire to chassis.
Well, I tried messing with the clutch switch and it does not solve the problem. How am I suppose to test it? For those new to the conversation, I will describe the details:
1995 honda civic LX 1.5 non-vtec manual
One day, my car decided not to start. The lights on the dashboard work and the headlights as well. When I turn the key, NOTHING happens. No sounds (aside from the fuel pump turning on).
Taking a spare jumper wire, I touch it between the positive terminal on the battery to the solenoid on the starter. I do this for about 2 seconds. The car instantly fires up and I can drive it normally.
This tells me that there is no power going from the battery to the starter. The battery was tested and found to be fully charged and the starter is brand new.
I basically have to determine what is preventing power from going from the battery to the starter via the positive cable attacking to the solenoid.
Thank you all for your assistance. I hate electrical
I'm pretty darn sure that you can't make the starter turn without an ecu in the car if the switch itself was grounded, assuming no other factors you'd still have to do some crazy wiring.
Listen to mk, because the starter don't need no stinking ECU.
Originally Posted by Tasp72
Well, I tried messing with the clutch switch and it does not solve the problem.
What exactly did you do? The first thing to look for is whether the rubber/plastic stopper that presses on the switch button broke and fell out, leaving an empty hole.
Listen to mk, because the starter don't need no stinking ECU.
What exactly did you do? The first thing to look for is whether the rubber/plastic stopper that presses on the switch button broke and fell out, leaving an empty hole.
Well, what I did was go under the steering column to see if anything was broken or out of place. The rubber stick on the clutch switch was intact and the plastic stopper on the clutch was in good condition and making contact. Other than that, I did not know what else to look for or how to test if it was functional
Yeah its the very very top one on the clutch, there are two. Like I said earlier the easiest way to test it is to jump the pins with a piece of wire. The bottom one on the clutch pedal is for the cruise control, the top one is the clutch safety switch to start the car
I've helped about a dozen people this month with the same problem, or the brake lights just staying on. In the 90's all Japanese manufacturers loved to use those rubber buttons for some reason
Yeah its the very very top one on the clutch, there are two. Like I said earlier the easiest way to test it is to jump the pins with a piece of wire. The bottom one on the clutch pedal is for the cruise control, the top one is the clutch safety switch to start the car
I've helped about a dozen people this month with the same problem, or the brake lights just staying on. In the 90's all Japanese manufacturers loved to use those rubber buttons for some reason
What do you mean by pins? Do you mean that i need to disconnect the clutch safety switch and connect the pins on the other side?
Does your car have cruise control? If so, there are two separate rubber stoppers for two separate switches. Post some clear pics of the switch you do see.
In an electrical connector the is a male to female connection.
The wires with the plug to the clutch switch can be removed, or unplugged from the clutch switch. When it is unplugged you can see inside the wires connector that there are two small metal holes. We call those holes "pins"
Does your car have cruise control? If so, there are two separate rubber stoppers for two separate switches. Post some clear pics of the switch you do see.
Yes, the car has cruise control and looks exactly like this layout. What I did was release the clutch from B and manually press the plastic button (with my finger) of clutch A. I hear some clicking but still no starting.
In an electrical connector the is a male to female connection.
The wires with the plug to the clutch switch can be removed, or unplugged from the clutch switch. When it is unplugged you can see inside the wires connector that there are two small metal holes. We call those holes "pins"
Oh I see. So, if I just disconnect the connector from the switch, I can reconnect using a jumper wire between the two pins on the connector?
UPDATE: I was able to disconnect both clutch switches from their plugs. Using a paperclip, I connected the pins to each other and tried to start the car. Nothing happened. I plan to test both of the plugs with a multimeter
Yes, the car has cruise control and looks exactly like this layout. What I did was release the clutch from B and manually press the plastic button (with my finger) of clutch A. I hear some clicking but still no starting.
Is the rubber/plastic stopper missing for switch A?
You need to hold the key in ON(III) while simultaneously pushing the switch A button. Be sure the transmission is in neutral for this test. Is that what you did?
Also check whether the starter solenoid is clicking.
07-26-2016, 08:29 PM
95 Civic 5-speed - No power to starter
