did you port match it, pretty important

 

Yes I know its pricey. But they have smaller kits that are less than 1k. So I'm trying to find things that I need to rechrome to justify. If not than I won't.

edit: OR chrome-like vinyl.

 

I blew one of my lma's today! 😭😭😭 does that count?

 

Pulled motor and trans out today with my 11yr old son.




A lot of cleaning to do. Its like he mined for coal in there. Lol

 

Today I just drove. But over the weekend I installed my Spyder smoked LED tail lights and some cheap K6 style black mirrors on my 95 Hatch.

The corner tail lights were direct plug and play, the tailgate had the BA15D bulb plug but the light it's replacing is a 168 bulb and the reverse bulb (woulda not worked right anyway) is a BA15S bulb plug. A 5 dollar purchase for the two bulb and harness plug and a little soldering and heat shrinking and they plugged right into the harness.

The K6 mirrors are cheap but they do look nice. Had to get the rubber mirror mats from the 95 SI power mirrors as the OEM manual rubbers would not fit. Also had to cut the bolt post foundations down to be only 10mm taller than the triangle base of the posts. Then rob the metal bolts from the OEM mirrors using the double nut (locknut) trick to unscrew them from the plastic.

Pics of blinker, running lights, reverse lights, brake lights and no lights. Only the brake portion and tailgate running lights are LED. The outer corner running utilizes the stock 168 bulb and the rear blinkers utilize the filament 1157 bulb (normally a 2057 but I did 1157 for the orange bulb) and the stock white bulb for the reverse lights.

I've been pricing out LED replacements for the various bulbs and looking at the 50W 6ohm resistors for the blinker hyper flash as well as LED 168 bulb replacements to be LED all the way around.

Now to get my Projector head light lenses.

The tailights are Sonar and the lenses are DOT certified while the housing is not.

Enjoy me pics:






Fitment of the mirror is better on drivers side. Passenger side I think was smacked by previous owner as it was not an OEM mirror and the base always sat funny as if the mirror base plate has been bent.

This mirror is still sitting better than the OEM replica one that was on there.

 

Spun #1 rod bearing and #1 main other ones are probly gone too, engine blew oil out of somewhere, shitty part is it doesn't even have 180,000km on it yet lol.

 

Have my car rolling now with my new bbk setup which are nsx calipers with 11 inch rotors!!

 

For the long weekend I decided to replace my heater core as when I kicked on the heat, I would smell coolant and the heater core box also has a busted flapper in it.

Since I have my dash pulled back and sitting on my seats, I decided to run the OEM vtec wires through the firewall. I wanted an OEM look and feel so I slowly peeled all the tape away and loaded the wire into the looms and retaped.

The following pics show how I used a bic pen tube shoved through the rubber grommet the wire harness passes through to get the wires through the firewall OEM style, and the finished taped up engine bay side of the harness.



Once I got the pen tube shoved through the grommet without damaging the harness or the grommet, I fed the two wires through my temporary conduit and then pulled the pen tube back inside the cabin.

The next two pictures show the finished product and the wire colors in location on the plug.



Tomorrow I will finish up the harness inside the cabin, replace the blower motor sealing foam with some 1/4" closed cell weather stripping foam from Home Depot (5 bucks) and put that bad boy back in place. Then continue on with the heater core swap and re-assemble.

Cheers.

 

broke the god damned case on a 95 civic ex a/t. i have done so so so many engines and transmission jobs on these cars and had never personally had it happen. opened the case (looked thru the massive crack) and saw gobs of jb weld. off to find a now fairly rare transmission or case.

 

i think I've still got an auto tranny from a 95 ex, I'm only a few hours away from you. PM me if you want

 

Got my wheels stripped and primer-ed. Tomorrow is tape, sanding and real paint.

 

put a new dust boot on the rear left coilover lol.
oh and took the rear dx emblem off and got it fairly polished out.

 

Today I spent about 7 hours finishing my heater core/flapper box swap and finishing the vtec wire job.

You can see the new heater core with new closed cell insulating foam and I decided to use the foam on the frame side for the blower motor. That old stuff just crumbled off.



Before putting the blower box back in I cheated a little on the inside for the vtec wires. I taped them on the outside up top on down until you hit the OEM large black patch tape they use. I cut the electrical tape off the ends of it and unwrapped it to the point of were they sealed it upon itself and let the two wires run inside of the larger wrapping and then through the black plastic square ECU harness box portion. Taped it all back up and unless you start unraveling tape, you would never know it's not complete OEM harness. Circled the two spots I undid the stock tape just above and below the big OEM patch in yellow. The rest is just my tape over their tape with the wires between.

I really did not feel like unwrapping all of the harness so I only attacked key parts and the rest is on the outside of the original tape but still fully taped to have the exact same look as the OEM harness.



Quite happy with how it turned out.

And until today. I didn't realize just how much control the temp slider was supposed to have. Prior to today my temp control was strictly by the coolant flow valve only. The flapper in the box that controlled how much air got pushed through the heater core is what was broke.

Nice to have a properly working heater and flapper box. No more smell of coolant when you kick the heater on and no leaks. Yay!!! :D

 

Hello guys! Well, this was my progress for yesterday, started to strip down everything, so excited! Bodywork and paintjob soon

 

Finally replaced that old broken trunk board with some 1/4" particle board from home depot

 

I ordered an MFactory LSD diff, an MFactory shift linkage solid bushing kit, and a Synchrotech 1-5 Pro Series carbon synchro set for the GSR transmission I just traded for. Might also have a trade in the works to exchange my 24.5" slicks for 23" slicks...I can't wait to get this transmission together and get back on the road!

 

I hate it when other people have more room than I do to work on their cars.....

edit: today my oem parts came in, I went str8 to work on replacements. throttlebody gasket, fpr, map o-ring all replaced. I ended up ordering the wrong egr so I'm trying to figure out how to make it work. The 3 stage vtec came with a 3 pin egr vacuum type and the 1 I order comes as a 5 pin egr non-vacuum type. I just need to find the 6 pin harness from a j swap and I'll test them out.

 

Spent some more time on the big swap today....a/c, both intake and exhaust manifolds done and power steering. JDM spec B18C

 

Haha, it's in a friends shop though!

 

Started pulling it apart for:

Complete hard rubber bushing replacement
inner/outer tie rods
upper/lower ball joints
Wheel bearings
Spherical bearing endlinks

- Whatever else I find under it that needs to be replaced. going to be a long few days

 

What method are you using to replace the bushings?

 

finally installed my 99-00 climate control conversion, pioneer DDIN and my 98-01 integra seats. only did the fronts for now, ill get to the rears this weekend.

 

Will most likely burn/cut them out and use my dads press to put the new ones in.

However I am thinking about just saying F it, and dropped everything at the shop and let them deal with it.

 

Anywhere online to get replacement bulbs for the cluster, climate control, etc? Gotta replace a few and don't really wanna pay dealer prices.

Any leads?

 

Not really the appropriate thread for this question but I'll bite anyway.

Superbrightleds.com

The have a variety of LED bulb versions.

And for the micro bulbs in things like the hazards button etc I saw a write up on modifying the led bulb they have to fit properly.

Yesterday I took my dizzy cap off and scraped the 1/8 inch of white corrosion off the posts in the cap.

Prior to this I was getting a funky burny smell coming in the fresh air intake of the cabin anytime I loaded the motor decently like hill climbing or anytime I hit 4K rpm or better.

After cleaning off the corrosion, no more smell. Does the heavy corrosion cause overheating of the coil or something? Is that funky burny smell an indicator you are stessing the hell out of the dizzy components?