I put my coworkers 99 Accord on ramps this moring and crawled around under it. This giant plug on my car is dangling on her car it is bolted to the intake manifold. I wonder if this is my bad ground that is keeping the injectors from firing?

Will correct it when I get home tonight with fingers crossed.

 

I'm having the same issue with mine except that when i ran the code after head gasket change, it gave me a p1359 crank shaft position sensor disconnected.
I've checked the following compression,fuel,and spark is all good.
where is the crank position sensor on the f23a4 or does it even have one?
i google but only showed the sensor itself and not the location.

 

um not the same at all, you have a code I don't have any pending or firm codes and my car will start and run if primed with starting fluid but then stalls because the injectors are not firing. I would love to have a code then I could just swap a part and be done with it!

Here is the crank position sensor. follow it up and make sure this is connected and the bolt is torqued down to the bolt that the connection clips onto.

 

Check the main relay an lil grey box under the dash behind the steering wheel or the ECM in the dizzy

 

Good advise, I replaced the main relay

 

Today I tried running additional ground wires from the battery to all the ground points on the chassis. no luck

I hooked that wire that was dangling back up to its mount.

I again confirmed spark and electricity to injectors with my volt meter.

I have no codes I have no pending codes?

I have checked all fuses

I do have two wires dangling under the dash if anyone can check where these wires plug into this might solve my problem.








Empty spots leftside under drives side dash



Any guesses?

 

First, that looks like three connectors not two. I look thru the manual and see if I can figure out what they are.

For giggles (don't see this much on the 6th gens) - what are the colors of the three wires going to the MAP sensor?

 

I will check in the MAP sensor wires in the morning, picture 2 and 3 are the same connector just different view. On my co workers 99 this connector is used. She is gone now so I don't have access to her car any longer

 

Here is the Map sensor wires Yellow / Green / Red



Here is the 4 wire plug on my co workers 99 it appears to be connected to the other non connected wire under my dash.

 

So after a week of scouring junk yards I found a 99 Accord that is a 2.3 ULEV and has the same options as mine with the wiring harness intact. The two loose wires under my dash appear to be part of the Key Less Control Main Unit. I bought the entire thing plugged it in and now the car doesn't do anything no crank nothing. I plugged back in the original wiring and the car does crank and almost starts.

I don't think this is the problem after all what are your thoughts?
I am leaning toward distributor, what do you think?

 

I drove the Accord today! It has an oil leak in the valve cover bolt, the PS pump sounds terrible and I still need to flush the coolant but it runs!

I replaced the distributor!!!

 

Glad you got it running.

 

Thanks, Did a little trouble shooting and noise is not PS pump it is the timing belt so it is going to need to come back apart. The Gates kit I bought did not fit well, I ended up reusing the pulleys and the wrench shaped part bows out slightly off the lower pulley I am guessing that is the issue.

 

That is strange....I've used gates products for years (including several timing kits) and never had an issue?

 

Yep I don't know what the deal was one of the pulleys from the Gates kit was taller (thicker) than the factory pulley but the same diameter, maybe I should have used it.

I fixed the belt noise issue in my carefulness to NOT over tighten the belt I didn't have enough tension on it so at idel it could slap the belt cover. Fixed and it sounds great.

Today I decided to run a flush kit through the cooling system before I fill it with coolant (water in it now).

I took it on a trip around the block everything seemed okay but then I got a code 1705 A/T concerns. I tried to accelerate at full throttle and the car would not upshift even if I let up to give it a chance. By the time I limped home it was almost at hot on the temp gauge maybe 2 cm below the orange and I had two new codes. 1259 VTEC system malfunction and 1399 random cylinder misfire. I have no smoke coming from the tail pipe but water. The oil in the crank case seems like it has absorbed a bit of water but it is not over the mark that I filled it too (cool) and the radiator still is full and doesn't have dis colored water in it.

Any guesses, I think I have 3 seperate problems here I didn't do any trouble shooting on it at all. Compression check is #1 and inspect plugs for fouling due to water/oil.

I used a Evergreen head gasket that I bought from Amazon, my gut tells me it didn't seal. I checked the head with straight edge and feeler gauge it did not have any warpage.

 

video of it starting and running in my garage. Prior to this I have been driving it in and out of the garage and up and down my street with no issues. It always starts on the second turn of the key. Reving the motor throws a water/oily mess from the tail pipe

 

Also need to add, during my drive after the additional error codes tach was jumpy holding at 3,000 rpm even though motor turning less then dropping back down to 1,500 or so.

When I turned the car off inside the garage it would not start. I let it cool for about 3 hours (that is when I checked coolant and oil condition and levels). After it was cool it would crank and almost start then not. It took me about 5 min to get it to start, cranking and playing with the gas pedal. Once it started it ideled normal.

 

Just finished researching the Vtec code on our website here and now know how to trouble shoot it.