91accord22

Hey everyone. I searched for a bit and didn't come up with a lot.

I have a 91 Accord, 2.2, auto. Timing belt was done last year with no faults, along with plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, iac.

This time around, the car was brought back to me after someone else replaced the valve cover seal, and spark plug seals. The valve cover gasket didn't seat and leaked oil.

I got the car, and noticed oil still in the spark plug holes and decided to replace the lower plug sealing O-rings.

Removed the rocker assembly and cleaned up everything. Replaced the O-rings and put the assembly back on and tightened down. Started from inside to out, criss cross pattern and torqued the fasteners down.

Put everything back together and no start. I did it super late last night and haven't done much checking.

After putting everything back together I got in and started it, it started for about 4 seconds, then shut off and hasn't been able to start the last 3 times I tried. Made no noises when it started briefly. When it turns over, it sounds normal. Doesn't spin fast like a broken belt

Only other thing done at the same time was topping off p/s fluid and coolant. Also cleaned both battery terminals.

My next step is to remove the valve cover, and check compression. Check for normal operation while turning the crank. Ill check for proper location of the crank in relation to the cam timing. Hoping it didn't jump timing for some insanely odd reason.

Only thing I can think happened is I bent a valve, or valves.

Any comments or suggestions?

GhostAccord

Could find out if it's missing fuel or spark before you go tearing back into it!

Could be something as easy as a loose or dirty ground connection to the block. G101 on the thermostat housing is a place to start.

91accord22

Alright thanks. Ill throw a spark tester on all 4 wires. Check for fuel, and compression. I removed the ground to the valve cover, but that's back on. Didn't touch anything fuel or spark related, but never know right.

GhostAccord

Always best to start with the basics.

When you tried to start it, did it catch and try to start. Or is there no catch/nothing at all?

91accord22

Well like I said, after installation i turned the key and it started for about 4 seconds and then stalled out. So I tried to key it again and it just turns over. Not fast like a broken belt, but like a normal ignition start. Doesn't want to even try to catch.

91accord22

Well I went back out this afternoon. Removed the valve cover and timing cover and engine mount. Jacked it up a bit and spun it over by hand with no plugs. Weird thing is some of the valves stick when I rotate it by hand. Like cylinder one top dead center and cam mark up. Cylinder two exhaust valve was down a little and the rocker wasn't touching. I pushed it with my finger and it popped back up.?? Strange.

Anyways, could be another issue. Who knows. But I used my spark tester and looked for spark and I wasn't getting a light. So I put a screw driver in the wire and grounded it. No success. Removed the plug and grounded it with the wire on it. No spark.

I removed the cap, and rotor and shield. No leak into the cover so I don't think I need a new distributor. But I took my test light and looked to see if the ignitor is powering up my coil. With the key on, it switches the negative to positive. I didn't have another hand to see if it was on and off. But I know it changes with key on.

Next I took my test light and put it to negative and used some bungee wires to rig it about 1/2 inch from the coil spring. I was able to see it from inside the car and I tried to start it again. The spark isn't created and doesn't jump the gap to the test light.

So right now, my best technical guess is the coil is bad. Im going to get a coil tomorrow and pray for myself. Haha

holmesnmanny

It's only $20 for a compression tester. Start with that.

tamboo

always carry an extra coil, it's the weakest link imho.
the honda/tec brand is best but a cheapo rockauto ultrapower
will work in a pinch.

GhostAccord

Ignitors can be a bit finicky on these engines as well. If the coils test good and the wiring is good, even if the ignitor test shows voltage, it may not be triggering as it should.

Time to pull out the multimeter........................and compression tester

RedTRex

Valves sticking open usually means they are bent. Why did you take the rocker assembly off to fix an oil leak?
Could just be coincidence and coil or fuel pump failed...

GhostAccord

I agree that sticking valves could probably be bent stems or could be heavy carbon buildup where it is the exhaust side.

and to answer the oil leak question. On these engines there are two sets of seals for the spark plug tubes. You have to remove the rocker assembly to replace the lower set of tube seals.

RedTRex

Ahh, did not know that. Been working cars for 35 years, but just picked up my first CB7 so learning this engine. I have the head off mine due to low compression on cyl 2 and 4. Didn't even notice the additional seals when I pulled the rocker assy off.

GhostAccord

Yeah they are stuck up inside the assembly side of the mating surfaces. the head side is machined smooth and you wouldn't think anything of it. Looks just like any other internal mating surface, except that it is actually external. These are great little engines to work on!

frank4

I had an erratic igniter (distributor part) on my 1992 Accord. It would completely cut off the ignition when I was driving, and a few minutes later it could be restarted. All panel lights would go dead, if I recall right. I got another one from a scrapyard early 90's Accord.

I currently have an erratic starting problem in my Accord, strongly suspect my Main Relay is going bad and not powering up the fuel pump, but that is probably not the culprit in this thread.