LST / LS-T Turbo B18A B18B setups
Yes i would like to see your map/tune, that is called a bin file. bin is short for binary
You can email it to me maximase96@aol.com
Or you can put up a pic on here, id like to see timing and fuel
What management are you running? How far down does the dump tube go? is it past the oil pan or at least to the bottom of it?
You can email it to me maximase96@aol.com
Or you can put up a pic on here, id like to see timing and fuel
What management are you running? How far down does the dump tube go? is it past the oil pan or at least to the bottom of it?
I went and bought a length of cheap flex pipe. I'm going to attach that to my dump and get the exhaust gases further away from my intake. I'm also going to try a pull or two without the filter. That will eliminate the possible restriction of the elbow. Just let me know if anyone wants to see the log and I can see about posting it later when I'm home.
Fuel and ignition dont look bad, its not aggressive by anyt means but it shuold still make more power than that. Time for new turbo and 3" and reroute that dump tube
Thanks for looking at it. I told him to keep it safe, so that's good that it is. My a/f ratio is about 12 throughout boost.
On another note about my IAT, I noticed this morning that they would continue to climb while idling. This with it being 80F outside. I was getting around 115F IAT at first and then after one boost pass it went up to about 130 and wanted to rise fast when I was idling. This tells me that the "under hood" temperature is just super hot and everything is heat soaked. I'm hoping that after I redo the dump and wrap everything, that will help. I also read that the turbo efficiency can play a big part in this, but I'm not too sure that's my problem since it was going up the fastest at idle.
A new turbo is definitely in order before I go back to the dyno. I plan on getting one slightly smaller than I have now. It feels like a catch a little turbo lag after a high rpm shift, and it might be a little big for what I'm wanting. I'll probably go with a turbo that will support about 350hp, so that will give me a good spool time.
I would really like to do 3" downpipe, but I have a 2.5" exhaust and I want to tie into that (I daily it). I'm sure in the future I can make this change though.
Thanks for all of the help so far!
On another note about my IAT, I noticed this morning that they would continue to climb while idling. This with it being 80F outside. I was getting around 115F IAT at first and then after one boost pass it went up to about 130 and wanted to rise fast when I was idling. This tells me that the "under hood" temperature is just super hot and everything is heat soaked. I'm hoping that after I redo the dump and wrap everything, that will help. I also read that the turbo efficiency can play a big part in this, but I'm not too sure that's my problem since it was going up the fastest at idle.
A new turbo is definitely in order before I go back to the dyno. I plan on getting one slightly smaller than I have now. It feels like a catch a little turbo lag after a high rpm shift, and it might be a little big for what I'm wanting. I'll probably go with a turbo that will support about 350hp, so that will give me a good spool time.
I would really like to do 3" downpipe, but I have a 2.5" exhaust and I want to tie into that (I daily it). I'm sure in the future I can make this change though.

Thanks for all of the help so far!
Hello all. I've had this thread bookmarked for a couple years now and figured it was finally time to join/post up.
-BONE STOCK B18b1
-Evo 8 TD05H 16g
-custom twin scroll B Series to Evo header
-Forge Motorsport internal wastegate
-ProSport MBC
-Precision 440cc injectors
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Hondata 4 bar map
-3" Downpipe to 3" straight pipe
-TPR catch can kit
-Moroso street/strip oil pan
-Blox oil adapter/sandwich plate
-Greddy rs BOV
-Godspeed FMIC
-Treadstone vacuum block
-Neukin radiator w/ slimfan.com
-Hasport mounts w/ U70A bushings
-GSR tranny w/ 98' Spec Type R LSD and 4.785 final drive
tuned by Blundar on eCtune currently making 236 whp and 238 wtq on 11 psi


one of my favorite vids.. http://youtu.be/yxgXEOdj5mo there are a bunch on my youtube page
-BONE STOCK B18b1
-Evo 8 TD05H 16g
-custom twin scroll B Series to Evo header
-Forge Motorsport internal wastegate
-ProSport MBC
-Precision 440cc injectors
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Hondata 4 bar map
-3" Downpipe to 3" straight pipe
-TPR catch can kit
-Moroso street/strip oil pan
-Blox oil adapter/sandwich plate
-Greddy rs BOV
-Godspeed FMIC
-Treadstone vacuum block
-Neukin radiator w/ slimfan.com
-Hasport mounts w/ U70A bushings
-GSR tranny w/ 98' Spec Type R LSD and 4.785 final drive
tuned by Blundar on eCtune currently making 236 whp and 238 wtq on 11 psi


one of my favorite vids.. http://youtu.be/yxgXEOdj5mo there are a bunch on my youtube page
allmotor thanks man............I have a 3 inch down pipe no cat and moroso pan too..but im not digging my pan it hangs pretty low,and it seems to always leak were the fitting goes into it...I havent had the fly wheel that long but so far its been ok, sometimes when i come to a stop the idle will drop low but i dont know if its that...
http://www.oomphlabs.com/product/hose-candy/
Not only can you customize them to match your underhood decor...makes for easy assembly/removal/servicing as well
try this...
http://www.oomphlabs.com/product/hose-candy/
Not only can you customize them to match your underhood decor...makes for easy assembly/removal/servicing as well
http://www.oomphlabs.com/product/hose-candy/
Not only can you customize them to match your underhood decor...makes for easy assembly/removal/servicing as well
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2870502
Agreed, I rode in a 320whp integra with a 6262 and boost kicks in kinda late and when we were in first spinning shifting to second it took like 2 seconds for boost to kick it and by then I was yawning for those 2 seconds....more for 400 + hell its rated at what 650hp and you won't be making half that so get something a little smaller like a 57 trim
Its always to better to be higer up into the effeceiency range of the turbo for better overall performance, the 6262 on an ls for 300ish whp wont even be into the effeciency range yet and laggy. A 50 trim or 57 trim would work well. The 50 trim will spool a little better and only make a couple less hp
Agreed, I rode in a 320whp integra with a 6262 and boost kicks in kinda late and when we were in first spinning shifting to second it took like 2 seconds for boost to kick it and by then I was yawning for those 2 seconds....more for 400 + hell its rated at what 650hp and you won't be making half that so get something a little smaller like a 57 trim
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OK. A little update on my situation.....
I did some testing last night and today, and I was suprised in what I saw, but it shows that I am needing to look in other areas.
I took off my filter and replaced it with some screen last night. I also extended my dump tube back and closer to the ground. I expected that this should free up some flow without the elbow on the intake and basically eliminating the possibilty of sucking dumped gases back into the turbo. However, I haven't seen much of a change. I expected that if my hypothesis was right, my AFR's should lean out up top, but I didn't see this. I basically showed no change, as far as I can see. I am running at a lower boost level right now, and that could be affecting the rich AFR's but I'm going to change the boost back up on the way home today just to make sure it's an "apples to apples" comparison.
So, this leads me to think that my exhaust (2.5" DP and full 2.5") and the turbo (ebay special) are some culprits to look into next for the restriction that I'm seeing. So, my plan is to fabricate a new 3" downpipe with a cutout for track use. I will still run this to my 2.5" exhaust for street use (for now), but it will help me attain that 300 whp number that I'm shooting for with the cutout open. I'm also looking to change the turbo in the future, so if anyone has any suggestions for a good, entry level turbo with a max HP rating of about 300-400 just post them. I figured this will give me good spool time and get me where I need to be.
I ordered some more 1.5" tubing, but I'm not sure if I'm going to change the dump tube now. I know that the location that it's in now isn't ideal, but it's showing to not be an issue. I guess I'll just have to see how the downpipe goes and how much room there is on the other side (hot side). One good thing about moving the dump would be that I could get the filter higher off the ground though too.
Anyways, as you can see from my babbling, I've got some decisions I need to make.
I did some testing last night and today, and I was suprised in what I saw, but it shows that I am needing to look in other areas.
I took off my filter and replaced it with some screen last night. I also extended my dump tube back and closer to the ground. I expected that this should free up some flow without the elbow on the intake and basically eliminating the possibilty of sucking dumped gases back into the turbo. However, I haven't seen much of a change. I expected that if my hypothesis was right, my AFR's should lean out up top, but I didn't see this. I basically showed no change, as far as I can see. I am running at a lower boost level right now, and that could be affecting the rich AFR's but I'm going to change the boost back up on the way home today just to make sure it's an "apples to apples" comparison.
So, this leads me to think that my exhaust (2.5" DP and full 2.5") and the turbo (ebay special) are some culprits to look into next for the restriction that I'm seeing. So, my plan is to fabricate a new 3" downpipe with a cutout for track use. I will still run this to my 2.5" exhaust for street use (for now), but it will help me attain that 300 whp number that I'm shooting for with the cutout open. I'm also looking to change the turbo in the future, so if anyone has any suggestions for a good, entry level turbo with a max HP rating of about 300-400 just post them. I figured this will give me good spool time and get me where I need to be.
I ordered some more 1.5" tubing, but I'm not sure if I'm going to change the dump tube now. I know that the location that it's in now isn't ideal, but it's showing to not be an issue. I guess I'll just have to see how the downpipe goes and how much room there is on the other side (hot side). One good thing about moving the dump would be that I could get the filter higher off the ground though too.
Anyways, as you can see from my babbling, I've got some decisions I need to make.
Eagle rods, SRP, CP, JE, Arias pistons are all good. I personally am running SRP due to the higher slicon content they dont expand as much so you can run a little tighter PTW for a quieter motor but really any listed are great products. Try to go with 81.25 if anyone makes a shelf piston that size. the least amout off the bore the better but if nto then 81.5 is just fine just dont go larger
Its always to better to be higer up into the effeceiency range of the turbo for better overall performance, the 6262 on an ls for 300ish whp wont even be into the effeciency range yet and laggy. A 50 trim or 57 trim would work well. The 50 trim will spool a little better and only make a couple less hp
Its always to better to be higer up into the effeceiency range of the turbo for better overall performance, the 6262 on an ls for 300ish whp wont even be into the effeciency range yet and laggy. A 50 trim or 57 trim would work well. The 50 trim will spool a little better and only make a couple less hp
I want to run SRP pistons but the compression is kind of low. They offer 9.0:1. I've got a b18c1 that im building on the side and not 100% sure if want want to boost it or keep it N/A. i was looking for something in high 9's or 10 flat. also i've been reading forms were people run P2W clearances according to manufacturer specs and have issue with the pistons expanding too much and scratching the walls. what do you guys set your P2W clearance at???
I want to run SRP pistons but the compression is kind of low. They offer 9.0:1. I've got a b18c1 that im building on the side and not 100% sure if want want to boost it or keep it N/A. i was looking for something in high 9's or 10 flat. also i've been reading forms were people run P2W clearances according to manufacturer specs and have issue with the pistons expanding too much and scratching the walls. what do you guys set your P2W clearance at???
There is nothing wrong with 9:1 compression the difference is minimal out of boost and it gives more leway for error. I dont run my PTW according to the sheet cause thats def to tight, thats more for all motor, if im not mistaken im around .028 or .030 ptw with the other pistons they like to be be more around .035
The SRP b18a/b pistons are 9.5:1 according to the website, GSR are 9.0:1
My engine has Great throttle responce with the srp's in it and has great low end power. I love them personally but to each his own
The SRP b18a/b pistons are 9.5:1 according to the website, GSR are 9.0:1
My engine has Great throttle responce with the srp's in it and has great low end power. I love them personally but to each his own



