Ive been getting a surging idle so i did a lil research here and found a few thing i could do and one of em is to bleed my coolant.


I tried bleeding my coolant today. From what i have read is that you should leave the radiator cap off and let the car run for a few minutes till the radiator fan turns on atleast twice. So i let my car idle for about 10-15 minutes but my fan never turned on. So now im not sure if i bled my coolant right?

 

anyone?

 

What engine do you have? On most D series there is an actual bleeder screw located by the thermostat housing that will allow you to bleed the system. On a B series there is none. What your describing is more or less, "burping" the system and allowing the air bubbles that could be in there to escape.

Some times the radiator fan doesn't come on until you have driven awhile. If you are having a surging idle, check to see that the T stat is working as well as the temp sensor. You should also look at the IACV.

 

its a d16.. so wheres the bleeder screw at?

 

It's near the T stat I believe.

 

d16 isnt specific enough
The y8, for example, doesnt have a bleeder thats easily gotten to.
(if at all...if i remember right)

Youre probably alright, but the car shouldve gotten to temperature - thats how i do mine, regardless of whether theres an actual bleeder valve or not

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16 isnt specific enough
The y8, for example, doesnt have a bleeder thats easily gotten to.
(if at all...if i remember right)

Youre probably alright, but the car shouldve gotten to temperature - thats how i do mine, regardless of whether theres an actual bleeder valve or not</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I just know some D series have it.

 

I've never seen an OBD2 D-series with a bleeder bolt. If anything, old school GS-R's were the ones to have the bleeder bolt on the upper radiator hose fitting.

The OEM thermostat for the OBD2 D-series engine begins to open at ~180* and is fully open by ~195*. The radiator fan kicks on ~205*. Water boils at 212*.

Make sure you have the heater control set to full hot (so that coolant can circulate through the heater core) but make sure the fan is OFF (so that it's not trying to cool the coolant you're waiting around on to get hot).

Leave the radiator cap off. Helms says to "leave it loose". I can only guess this is to prevent coolant from spilling out while air bubbles are being purged. I just leave the funnel sticking out of the radiator neck.

Fill the system with coolant, start the car and refill as needed. Stand around and wait for the cooling fan to at least come on once. I've NEVER waited a second time. If after the cooling fan kicks on once and you still see air bubbles, then wait some more. But in general, you really don't even need to wait till the cooling fan kicks on. By that time, you're assured that the thermostat has fully opened - or was suppose to.

Believe it or not, there are people out there that will drain what they can from the system, refill it and then tighten the radiator cap up and call it "finished". It's those massive air bubbles that were never purged that cause problems with the hunting idle.

I just did the timing belt on my 00 Ex this past weekend, so the procedure is fresh in my mind.

 

Can you check out my D series Thread?

 

Sure. Link?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2033598

I really don't work on D series that much. However, I looked at my chiltons manual and I found where I got the bleeder screw from. It makes specific refrences to it on 1-42 and 3-3 ( # 60 ) that there is one. It calls it an " air bleed bolt " specifically. I came across this when I was reviewing the proper procedure to do my coolant flush awhile back.

I think that the automotive manuals such as chiltons or haynes acutally lead you in the wrong direction more times then not. I have noticed this as time has gone on and I have tried using them. I ended up just using alldata now, which seems to be the best source for looking something up.

 

Yes, those manuals are notorious for inaccurate info.

Stick with Helms. It's what the dealership uses.

 

Actually, the b18a has a bleeder on the water port too.
I snagged one at a junk yard, and slapped it onto my b18b.
Which makes it even sillier that I dont use it

 

Haha... well I guess this bleeder bolt does exist... at least some where.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, those manuals are notorious for inaccurate info.

Stick with Helms. It's what the dealership uses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually came across a Honda service manual for all Honda civic's from 96' - 00'... It's huge and has everything in it.