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unless your pushing huge numbers the stock cams are very reliable this is becaus eof the backpressure issues.Turbo motors dont like lots of duration and overlap because if theres more backpressure than boost pressure hot exhaust gases go back into the motor YOU DONT WANT THIS thats why when you tune they retard the timing on cams to ensure minimal overlap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiaogou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a H22 block. I want to run a H23 crank.
I will use Pauter or Manley rods. Should I use H22 spec pistons or H23 spec pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spearco and PWR seem to be the best intercoolers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What about Precision and Trust?
A guy I know has a single turbo Supra running a Precision IC and loves it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Attaus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about Precision and Trust?
A guy I know has a single turbo Supra running a Precision IC and loves it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
precision is pretty awesome but what is trust???and who makes it
I have a boosted H22A with a built block and I am making 290whp and 278wtq at 11.5psi. I am looking to increase my power and was thinking along the lines of an msd ignition. I was recently informed that a couple people had problems with making power with MSD and had serious missfire and that the problem was not resolved until they went back to there stock ignition system. Has anyone else had a problem with this or heard of it. I would like to make more power over the winter season and I have already got my new parts but the ignition is the only thing that I cant figure out what to properly do with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Well, since my thread got locked ( ), I have a question. What's the best route for IC piping? I have seen 2 different routes on the drivers side. One goes directly back right after it leaves the intercooler and the other goes over to the fender area, and then up. I will try to find pics, but doubt I will. By best I mean the one that allows you to keep a/c, power steering. For all I know, they both work fine.
And since I don't feel like reading at 2a.m. and figure some of you can easily give an answer... what IC piping are you using that works well? I was hoping to stay on the cheaper side since IC piping is one of the things you can cut the budget with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DfwBB6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is your set up??? the manifold ramhorn, log, top mount???? and also for what year prelude is this going on???? please more info </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, its a 93 w/H22. The turbo is a T3/04e but I won't mention which one because last time I did, my thread got locked for it. I haven't decided on a manifold yet, I will try to do that later today. Fmic, 2.5" piping I believe. Haven't decided on the wastegate either. BOV will probably be an ebay one. Maybe Greddy if I'm feeling up to it.
I have decided on the drag manifold (log). The rest of my setup is in my post above me. Now if anyone has input on the questions I asked, I would appreciate it (see post below).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda3431 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, since my thread got locked ( ), I have a question. What's the best route for IC piping? I have seen 2 different routes on the drivers side. One goes directly back right after it leaves the intercooler and the other goes over to the fender area, and then up. I will try to find pics, but doubt I will. By best I mean the one that allows you to keep a/c, power steering. For all I know, they both work fine.
And since I don't feel like reading at 2a.m. and figure some of you can easily give an answer... what IC piping are you using that works well? I was hoping to stay on the cheaper side since IC piping is one of the things you can cut the budget with. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda3431 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, since my thread got locked ( ), I have a question. What's the best route for IC piping? I have seen 2 different routes on the drivers side. One goes directly back right after it leaves the intercooler and the other goes over to the fender area, and then up. I will try to find pics, but doubt I will. By best I mean the one that allows you to keep a/c, power steering. For all I know, they both work fine.
And since I don't feel like reading at 2a.m. and figure some of you can easily give an answer... what IC piping are you using that works well? I was hoping to stay on the cheaper side since IC piping is one of the things you can cut the budget with. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the complete kit that i bought was off of a 5th gen that i'm modifying to fit mine, so the IC piping was already precut/bent/welded, and for the most part, fits directly into my 4th gen.
piping on the drivers-side goes straight outta the IC, 90 degree bend into washer fluid reservoir territory, 90 degree bend up thru the same hole that the washer bottle went thru the sheetmetal (i had to enlarge this hole) and another 90 degree bend straight into the alternator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the complete kit that i bought was off of a 5th gen that i'm modifying to fit mine, so the IC piping was already precut/bent/welded, and for the most part, fits directly into my 4th gen.
piping on the drivers-side goes straight outta the IC, 90 degree bend into washer fluid reservoir territory, 90 degree bend up thru the same hole that the washer bottle went thru the sheetmetal (i had to enlarge this hole) and another 90 degree bend straight into the alternator
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should get 2 90's and run the pipes around the radiator...i used to have a setup like that and cut about 4' of piping out and got a lot faster spool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wicklewopper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you should get 2 90's and run the pipes around the radiator...i used to have a setup like that and cut about 4' of piping out and got a lot faster spool. </TD></TR></TABLE>
mine is a pieced together kit that i found on good ol' EBAYYYYY that was for a 5th gen.
XSpower t3/to4e 57 trim that i got rebuilt from blaast performance.
tial 38mm wg
HKS SSQV
piping
came with a 12" IC, but i bought a 6" no-namer
a shitty lookin downpipe
dsm 450's
walbro 255lph
boost and oil pressure gauges
oil lines
i'm still waiting on a hermsfab log style manifold, and i also got a chipped ECU from phearable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is a pieced together kit that i found on good ol' EBAYYYYY that was for a 5th gen.
XSpower t3/to4e 57 trim that i got rebuilt from blaast performance.
tial 38mm wg
HKS SSQV
piping
came with a 12" IC, but i bought a 6" no-namer
a shitty lookin downpipe
dsm 450's
walbro 255lph
boost and oil pressure gauges
oil lines
i'm still waiting on a hermsfab log style manifold, and i also got a chipped ECU from phearable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you using an h23 or h22? i'm just wondering.
i just bought a precision sc34 t3/t4 57 trim . 63 a/r and i'm going to put it on my h23.
how much power you looking for? i plan for 350 to the wheels. i'm building a block on the side first though.
i don't know if you can do it with air conditioning..you may be able to do one side...you need to enlarge the holes where the turn signal wires go through. i used 90 degree couplers and the same piping but you could probably just use the piping you have since you intercooler is smaller. then point your compressor straight down...
oh and you have to relocate the overflow tank somewhere and your battery to the trunk..if you have one of those tiny braille batteries you can probably mount it where the intake used to be, or run a cold air intake to the turbo. thats what i'm going to do next.
its worth the trouble too.. i used to get 10psi by 3500rpm now i get 15-16...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ralpheezy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are you using an h23 or h22? i'm just wondering.
i just bought a precision sc34 t3/t4 57 trim . 63 a/r and i'm going to put it on my h23.
how much power you looking for? i plan for 350 to the wheels. i'm building a block on the side first though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
H23. hoping for 230-240'ish @ 7pounds, STOCK internals.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wicklewopper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know if you can do it with air conditioning..you may be able to do one side...you need to enlarge the holes where the turn signal wires go through. i used 90 degree couplers and the same piping but you could probably just use the piping you have since you intercooler is smaller. then point your compressor straight down...
oh and you have to relocate the overflow tank somewhere and your battery to the trunk..if you have one of those tiny braille batteries you can probably mount it where the intake used to be, or run a cold air intake to the turbo. thats what i'm going to do next.
its worth the trouble too.. i used to get 10psi by 3500rpm now i get 15-16... </TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm.... i already relocated the battery to the trunk, and have the civic 1/2 rad and fan, with the overflow tank on the opposite side of where it usually is.
i'm gonna go rip my front bumper off right now to see if i can do it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wicklewopper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know if you can do it with air conditioning..you may be able to do one side...you need to enlarge the holes where the turn signal wires go through. i used 90 degree couplers and the same piping but you could probably just use the piping you have since you intercooler is smaller. then point your compressor straight down...
oh and you have to relocate the overflow tank somewhere and your battery to the trunk..if you have one of those tiny braille batteries you can probably mount it where the intake used to be, or run a cold air intake to the turbo. thats what i'm going to do next.
its worth the trouble too.. i used to get 10psi by 3500rpm now i get 15-16... </TD></TR></TABLE>
aight i found out where your talkin about. AC should be no problem, as long as the radius on the pipes/connectors is no problem.
its just one of the PS hoses that pokes thru the sheetmetal (the thingy with all the fins on it) is poping out on the bottom-most hole, and that thing is HARDDDD to move.
i plan to use asmall turbo, because I want to turbo my h23 and get very quick spool, sacrificing peak power. Maybe a t28(heard its still too small), or a 16g(the MHI one)..
my problems are..
a) how much boost could run one with a good tune on stock internals? Nobody can give a straight answer, a lot of people blow their h series motors. I want to see if anyone actualy has done it successfully and it lasted
b) What exhaust piping size? The bigger the better for response, but would 3" be loud? I want astock looking muffler, and if I got one of those, even if it was 3", I couldn't put a silencer on it, could I? Aren't silencers only for coffee can shape tips? I want it to be somewhat quiet.. maybe a greddy 2.5 woudl work.. but kteller 3" looks good too..with a vibrant cheapo 3" muffler..
any advice?