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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rseaburgh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have little faith in that. I have no doubt that it'll work for a short time, but with the amount spent on tuning to that comp ratio is not beneficial.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop giving these people advice please. Its seriously rediculous how much bad info is in this thread.
Get something straight everyone. Your kit is **** unless you have a good tune. your internals, meh. hell I have a 146k sh h22a4 running 10psi. and I've boosted up to 17psi before on stock internals. Timing, fuel and tune is EVERYTHING. My compression is still perfectly fine too, car runs like a champ ever since the day she got a torque freaks tune.
this is the best advice anyone will give you right here
#1 buy a wideband, get a plx or aem or something. This will tell your air fuel ratio, realtime and on a 5 wire scale. So it will actualy be accurate. I'm not talking about the cheap autometer naroband either
#2 Get an egt gauge and boost gauge so you can monitor if your car is overboosting or if your car is running hot, and if you want to be real ****. run an egt sensor on each exhaust runner. VERY bennecial if you have an aem ems because then you can see if an injector goes out and you can also tune per cylinder
#3 Engine management? get a good one although its only as good as the tune. You could get a neptune or an aem ems but w/o the right tune its garbage. This means don't go to your local shop unless its been proven to give people good results WITH OUT BLOWING MOTORS
#4 Get a high volume fuel system so that way if you ever do boost spike and if your engine management has a feature called "BOOST COMP" or "CLOSED LOOP" it will put more fuel in the chamber to accomadate for the new air.
SO IT DOESNT LEAN OUT, HEAT UP, AND BREAK ****
and to rseaburgh the amount of money you spend on tuning a car with 11.1 comp should be the same as a car with 10.1 com unless your shop is stupid and they are being sloppy with your tune. A 11.1 comp is only different becuase they pull more timing out and add a bit more fuel. It does'nt take any more time, all tunes should be precise. So seriously dude just be quite man, a type s motor on boost would be a nice setup
i have a 97 lude i am pretty good mechanically... never actually put on a turbo... was looking at the turbonetics kit and they said that they already come tuned, witch sounds like a bunch of BS im lookin to get around like 270 off stock internals...is this kit good for me
i like the kit man, the only problems i am having is running on the rich side without a tune. But thats only because i haven't installed my VAFC-2 yet...but everything else is going great, and you can definatly feel the difference!
hey whats up happylude...i got a 2000 boosted SH, i was just curious what you did with ATTS...? I've heard that it has problems processing the power after about 220-250 so let me know what you did...oh yea and those are nice numbers by the way!!! haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madinthe717 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 97 lude i am pretty good mechanically... never actually put on a turbo... was looking at the turbonetics kit and they said that they already come tuned, witch sounds like a bunch of BS im lookin to get around like 270 off stock internals...is this kit good for me</TD></TR></TABLE>
270whp off stock internals I would probably run a gt35r turbo mated with a lovefab mini-me manifold. Run 750cc injectors/walbro 255 lph a good engine management and a intercooler of your choice and your set. and you could make that power on low boost. Say 6-7psi. The advantage of running low boost and making big power is you keep heat down. Sure you could buy a greddy kit and make that power on 12psi but you are creating a ton more heat
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHPrelude00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey whats up happylude...i got a 2000 boosted SH, i was just curious what you did with ATTS...? I've heard that it has problems processing the power after about 220-250 so let me know what you did...oh yea and those are nice numbers by the way!!! haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
atts will just disable itself. Its not a big deal, My aem ems disabled it. Its only downfall is that its just dead weight in the engine compartment
this may have been covered but i didnt see it. when i do my turbo build ill sleeve and put in some forged pistons (dunno what kind yet). but anyways, are forged rods a must right away? i know valvetrain will need an upgrade too. can i wait to completely build the internals or do i need to do it all at once?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by plikit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this may have been covered but i didnt see it. when i do my turbo build ill sleeve and put in some forged pistons (dunno what kind yet). but anyways, are forged rods a must right away? i know valvetrain will need an upgrade too. can i wait to completely build the internals or do i need to do it all at once?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can wait to do it but it's kind of pointless and I don't know why you would want to tear your block down twice . Also if you don't put forged rods in you should still be carefull. H22 rods don't like to rev to high and in long 4th or 5th gear pulls you may end up snapping one. Valvetrain is not as vital as the block. Just put some eagle h-beams in there. They are cheap anyways, if cost is a issue
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and to rseaburgh the amount of money you spend on tuning a car with 11.1 comp should be the same as a car with 10.1 com unless your shop is stupid and they are being sloppy with your tune. A 11.1 comp is only different because they pull more timing out and add a bit more fuel. It doesn't take any more time, all tunes should be precise. So seriously dude just be quite man, a type s motor on boost would be a nice setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Proving a point is fine, I have no problem with that. Now being an assmonkey about it, now that is a different story. I don't claim to know it all, I'm still learning my damn-self. People need to read the whole topic before they ask the questions they do. All the pages.
So you say boosting a Type-S motor is fine? I've heard and seen otherwise, but you obviously know way, way more than I do. Whatever, DUDE
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you can wait to do it but it's kind of pointless and I don't know why you would want to tear your block down twice . Also if you don't put forged rods in you should still be carefull. H22 rods don't like to rev to high and in long 4th or 5th gear pulls you may end up snapping one. Valvetrain is not as vital as the block. Just put some eagle h-beams in there. They are cheap anyways, if cost is a issue</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i know what you mean by tearing the block down twice. i guess ill just save a little longer and do the whole bottom end at once. the valvetrain i can do at a later time then? ive been told more than 15psi and the valvetrain has to be done?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jspech22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u got pics of ur front bar with coolr iroc?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rseaburgh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Proving a point is fine, I have no problem with that. Now being an assmonkey about it, now that is a different story. I don't claim to know it all, I'm still learning my damn-self. People need to read the whole topic before they ask the questions they do. All the pages.
So you say boosting a Type-S motor is fine? I've heard and seen otherwise, but you obviously know way, way more than I do. Whatever, DUDE</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm being an assmonkey because what you say may sway somebody to spend thousands more dollars than neccessary, and thats just fucked up . If your still learning yourself then don't give advice. Ask more questions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by plikit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah i know what you mean by tearing the block down twice. i guess ill just save a little longer and do the whole bottom end at once. the valvetrain i can do at a later time then? ive been told more than 15psi and the valvetrain has to be done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
depending on the turbo you run 15psi should be okay on the valvetrain. I would still take it easy and set your rev limiter to 7500. After you build the head you can probably rev to 8300-8500 safely And you'll still make power up there .
ALSO!! Remember guys to do a compression test before you turbo your car. and then also do a compression test every time you change your oil. Also an oil pressure gauge won't hurt in letting you know if anything is failing internaly. Say an oil pump
nice lude iroc, And also to anyone looking to buy a turbo lude or just watch a sick video of my car, here you go. I have major traction issues https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1405694
I complimented you first!!!...actually I think we both did it at the same time...anyway.
I have a few Q's for ya...
How come your valve cover has no vtec stamped on it? Was it shaved and painted??
and Who did your headlights?...I've been dying to do HIDs but don't have the courage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irocdaparty85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I complimented you first!!!...actually I think we both did it at the same time...anyway.
I have a few Q's for ya...
How come your valve cover has no vtec stamped on it? Was it shaved and painted??
and Who did your headlights?...I've been dying to do HIDs but don't have the courage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, I really like the look of your lude. It flows well and I'm not a fan of body kits. The valve cover took me about 10 hours of grinding the vtec off and then sanding it down and then paint stripping it and then priming and painting it. I also removed the 2 grounding spots on the top of the VC too.
The projectors I had someone make but I had to rebuild them. I was in the same boat. I was just so nervous about baking my headlights open. Its really quite easy after you get them in hand and you see how they are made.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm being an assmonkey because what you say may sway somebody to spend thousands more dollars than neccessary, and thats just fucked up . If your still learning yourself then don't give advice. Ask more questions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So tell me how boosting a Type-s motor is good?
And what exactly did I say that would cause someone to spend more money??
c61 dude im kinda with you... i thought you tried to talk that type s dude out of boosting at such high compression... you didn't encourage it i thought...anyways...irocdaparty how much the guy charge you for putting those lights together?...im kinda hesitant on the baking of headlights too...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHPrelude00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...irocdaparty how much the guy charge you for putting those lights together?...im kinda hesitant on the baking of headlights too... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a question for c61lude....I don't have HIDs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rseaburgh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So tell me how boosting a Type-s motor is good?
And what exactly did I say that would cause someone to spend more money??</TD></TR></TABLE>
11.1 compression yields less turbo lag and more power if tuned currectly. What you said could have led someone to want to build a motor when they would'nt need to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHPrelude00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">c61 dude im kinda with you... i thought you tried to talk that type s dude out of boosting at such high compression... you didn't encourage it i thought...anyways...irocdaparty how much the guy charge you for putting those lights together?...im kinda hesitant on the baking of headlights too... </TD></TR></TABLE>
500$ for projectors in the housing but it's not difficult to do by yourself. look around and do some research, ask lots of questions.
did you use the m3 or m5 projectors and then just cut out the hole for it?... did u have to do a hid conversion too?...i have seen it done and had it explained but just have some more questions before i do it myself... did u buy stock headlights and work on them while the old ones were in your car and just sell the old ones once you were finished?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
11.1 compression yields less turbo lag and more power if tuned currectly. What you said could have led someone to want to build a motor when they would'nt need to. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What comp do you got? Do you have a Type-S engine? Do you even drive your car? Who tuned it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rseaburgh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What comp do you got? Do you have a Type-S engine? Do you even drive your car? Who tuned it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
10.1 comp and type R guys boost all the time and see great numbers. I used to drive my car all the time but not so much anymore, a freind of mine who got torque freaks vouch tuned my car. He is very talented with the AEM ems.