Safety wire help needed.
01-20-2008, 06:06 PM
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Safety wire help needed.
I recently bought a Wilwood bbk, which is recommended to be safety wired. But I have a few questions: 1) Where can I get the safety wire to do it? my kit does not include it. 2) What tools are needed, I know there are specialty pliers, but what brand are they and where can I purchase them? Also does anyone know of a how to? Or at the very least does anyone have any close up pictures of your setup? I have yet to receive the kit, so I have yet to inspect it, so this may be easier then I believe it to be, but from some people I hear that it took hours and others say that it only took them 15min.
01-20-2008, 06:19 PM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (chairwitharmrests)
Any specialty tool joint should have something available, both for the wire and the pliers. It does take some practice to do properly, but if it's taking you HOURS to do a friggin' caliper, you're doing something wrong. I unfortunately can't offer much help beyond that. For places to buy stuff, check Harbor Freight for cheap-o, and Snap-On for higher end but definitely expensive stuff.
01-20-2008, 06:39 PM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (Stinkycheezmonky)
Safety wire is common in the aircraft and racing industries as an extra precaution to keep vital fasteners from loosening and parts falling off. Safety wire is commonly .020, .025, .032 or .041 inches in diameter and usually made of stainless steel, but is also available in Monel and Inconel alloys for high temperature applications and copper for break-away applications. It is threaded through a hole drilled into a fastener or part, then twisted and anchored to a second fastener or part, then twisted again, usually with the aid of safety wire pliers.
There are a few techniques for different applications. When you use the most common size which is .032 wire, your twists per inch will be 7 to 9. When you twist .041 or .040 your twists per inch should be 5 to 7. On the smallest wire .020 you should get 8 to 10 twists per inch.
Two common sizes. 6 or 7 inch and 9 or 10 inch. The primary difference is if the **** (which twists the pliers) at the end of the handle is included in the measurement.
Safety Wiring Techniques
Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another car. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your car.
Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items:
Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must.
A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops.
A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling.
How to drill
Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull.
Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure.
Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner.
Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier.
How to wire
Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure.
When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut.
The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight.
Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard.
This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump.
If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object.
Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring
There are a few techniques for different applications. When you use the most common size which is .032 wire, your twists per inch will be 7 to 9. When you twist .041 or .040 your twists per inch should be 5 to 7. On the smallest wire .020 you should get 8 to 10 twists per inch.
Two common sizes. 6 or 7 inch and 9 or 10 inch. The primary difference is if the **** (which twists the pliers) at the end of the handle is included in the measurement.
Safety Wiring Techniques
Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another car. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your car.
Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items:
Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must.
A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops.
A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling.
How to drill
Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull.
Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure.
Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner.
Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier.
How to wire
Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure.
When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut.
The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight.
Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard.
This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump.
If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object.
Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring
01-20-2008, 06:54 PM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (Stinkycheezmonky)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any specialty tool joint should have something available, both for the wire and the pliers. It does take some practice to do properly, but if it's taking you HOURS to do a friggin' caliper, you're doing something wrong. I unfortunately can't offer much help beyond that. For places to buy stuff, check Harbor Freight for cheap-o, and Snap-On for higher end but definitely expensive stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, and i assume the hours were spent on the rotors, not the calipers/mounting brackets.
And I didnt try google, because I didnt think I'd have any luck, but Ill give it a shot.
Thanks, and i assume the hours were spent on the rotors, not the calipers/mounting brackets.
And I didnt try google, because I didnt think I'd have any luck, but Ill give it a shot.
01-20-2008, 07:06 PM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (chairwitharmrests)
Originally Posted by Grumpy
Safety wire is common in the aircraft and racing industries as an extra precaution to keep vital fasteners from loosening and parts falling off. Safety wire is commonly .020, .025, .032 or .041 inches in diameter and usually made of stainless steel, but is also available in Monel and Inconel alloys for high temperature applications and copper for break-away applications. It is threaded through a hole drilled into a fastener or part, then twisted and anchored to a second fastener or part, then twisted again, usually with the aid of safety wire pliers.
There are a few techniques for different applications. When you use the most common size which is .032 wire, your twists per inch will be 7 to 9. When you twist .041 or .040 your twists per inch should be 5 to 7. On the smallest wire .020 you should get 8 to 10 twists per inch.
Two common sizes. 6 or 7 inch and 9 or 10 inch. The primary difference is if the **** (which twists the pliers) at the end of the handle is included in the measurement.
Safety Wiring Techniques
Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another car. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your car.
Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items:
Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must.
A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops.
A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling.
How to drill
Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull.
Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure.
Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner.
Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier.
How to wire
Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure.
When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut.
The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight.
Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard.
This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump.
If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object.
Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring
There are a few techniques for different applications. When you use the most common size which is .032 wire, your twists per inch will be 7 to 9. When you twist .041 or .040 your twists per inch should be 5 to 7. On the smallest wire .020 you should get 8 to 10 twists per inch.
Two common sizes. 6 or 7 inch and 9 or 10 inch. The primary difference is if the **** (which twists the pliers) at the end of the handle is included in the measurement.
Safety Wiring Techniques
Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another car. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your car.
Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items:
Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must.
A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops.
A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling.
How to drill
Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull.
Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure.
Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner.
Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier.
How to wire
Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure.
When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut.
The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight.
Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard.
This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump.
If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object.
Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring
01-21-2008, 06:13 AM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (chairwitharmrests)
You can also order the wire and plyers from Pegasus.
Re the Wilwoods; Wilwood have in the past incorporated the incorrect torque specs for some of the bolts used in their kits...in particular the jet nuts used to fasten the supplied braket to the caliper. In this was for the Dyna Pro caliper, not the Dyna-lite. In addition, pay close attention to the torquing pattern. When the rotors are finished, you can re-use the hats one more time, but replace the bolts. After two rotor replacements, replace the hats, bolts and rotors. If you are using super aggressive pads, you may be able to get more life from the hats, but check with Wilwood.
Some folks use red Loctite to fasten and hold these bolts in lieu of safety wire...outside of rules, this is probably not a good practice. In any event, if you use red Loctite, you essentially throw the entire rotor, hat and bolts away after one use...not the most econimcal way to go...
Re the Wilwoods; Wilwood have in the past incorporated the incorrect torque specs for some of the bolts used in their kits...in particular the jet nuts used to fasten the supplied braket to the caliper. In this was for the Dyna Pro caliper, not the Dyna-lite. In addition, pay close attention to the torquing pattern. When the rotors are finished, you can re-use the hats one more time, but replace the bolts. After two rotor replacements, replace the hats, bolts and rotors. If you are using super aggressive pads, you may be able to get more life from the hats, but check with Wilwood.
Some folks use red Loctite to fasten and hold these bolts in lieu of safety wire...outside of rules, this is probably not a good practice. In any event, if you use red Loctite, you essentially throw the entire rotor, hat and bolts away after one use...not the most econimcal way to go...
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01-21-2008, 06:19 AM
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (meb58)
you can buy specialty tools if you really want to but im a blackhawk mechanic and i safety wire daily.
Get yourself duckbill pliers and a pair of needlenose from any store, with a really sharp pair of dykes. Thats all you should use as far as tools go. Dont waste your money on specialty tools, theres no reason to.
Get yourself duckbill pliers and a pair of needlenose from any store, with a really sharp pair of dykes. Thats all you should use as far as tools go. Dont waste your money on specialty tools, theres no reason to.
01-21-2008, 08:08 AM
#9
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Well after looking on harbor freight, it looks like the pliers are only $6-$12.
Also after all the bolts are linked to each other or one is wired to the chasis, to secure it do you just twist the wire and then fold it over on itself? That is the only part that is unclear to me.
Also after all the bolts are linked to each other or one is wired to the chasis, to secure it do you just twist the wire and then fold it over on itself? That is the only part that is unclear to me.
01-21-2008, 08:36 AM
#10
Re: Safety wire help needed. (electron_si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electron_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy specialty tools if you really want to but im a blackhawk mechanic and i safety wire daily.
Get yourself duckbill pliers and a pair of needlenose from any store, with a really sharp pair of dykes. Thats all you should use as far as tools go. Dont waste your money on specialty tools, theres no reason to.</TD></TR></TABLE>
QFT- Blackhawk Mechanics live and die by safetywire....
If you want to ever see the most difficult safety.. Try the Tail Rotor inner pressure plate.. What is that 15 or more bolts all in one string?
Modified by dirty19 at 1:06 PM 1/21/2008
Get yourself duckbill pliers and a pair of needlenose from any store, with a really sharp pair of dykes. Thats all you should use as far as tools go. Dont waste your money on specialty tools, theres no reason to.</TD></TR></TABLE>
QFT- Blackhawk Mechanics live and die by safetywire....
If you want to ever see the most difficult safety.. Try the Tail Rotor inner pressure plate.. What is that 15 or more bolts all in one string?
Modified by dirty19 at 1:06 PM 1/21/2008
01-21-2008, 12:02 PM
#11
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Re: Safety wire help needed. (dirty19)
There is a right and wrong way to safty wire. The wire should be in tennsion if you were trying to loosen ( counter clock most of the time) not compression.
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