Looking for some setup help on EF
Alright let me give you some background information.
Car:
1991 Civic Hatch
B16A
Integra Rear Disk Conversion
Koni Yellows up front
Tokico Blues in back
Coilovers
450F/350R spring rate
1993 integra rear sway bar
Performance Friction Z-rated pads upfront Porterfield R4S pads in the rear
Driver:
Autoxer for 5 years
Timetrialer for 2 events (so yeah I'm a noob to this part)
Ok so the car is setup for autox right now and is setup really well for it. I normally finish first in my class and top ten over all so I know the car is set up great for the autox events.
My problem is I'm not sure if an autox setup is the best thing for the track. I just completed my second Time Trial yesterday and I felt as though the car was very unsettled through the turns. Yesterday's event was at BeaveRun and it felt very unstable comming over turn 7 (I actually spun out and went into the grass once at 80.) This happened with someone in the passenger seat because I felt as though I needed the extra weight to keep the right front tire on the ground around some of the turns.. in fact that extra weight helped out a lot. I guess my question is.. does anyone have some setups that they feel would help me out on the track? A common problem I have noticed is that when I brake hard going into a turn the rear end gets very very light and will tend to rotate. I was wondering if there was a way to keep this from happening. I was thinking of proportioning more rear brake bias.
Well any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Scott
Car:
1991 Civic Hatch
B16A
Integra Rear Disk Conversion
Koni Yellows up front
Tokico Blues in back
Coilovers
450F/350R spring rate
1993 integra rear sway bar
Performance Friction Z-rated pads upfront Porterfield R4S pads in the rear
Driver:
Autoxer for 5 years
Timetrialer for 2 events (so yeah I'm a noob to this part)
Ok so the car is setup for autox right now and is setup really well for it. I normally finish first in my class and top ten over all so I know the car is set up great for the autox events.
My problem is I'm not sure if an autox setup is the best thing for the track. I just completed my second Time Trial yesterday and I felt as though the car was very unsettled through the turns. Yesterday's event was at BeaveRun and it felt very unstable comming over turn 7 (I actually spun out and went into the grass once at 80.) This happened with someone in the passenger seat because I felt as though I needed the extra weight to keep the right front tire on the ground around some of the turns.. in fact that extra weight helped out a lot. I guess my question is.. does anyone have some setups that they feel would help me out on the track? A common problem I have noticed is that when I brake hard going into a turn the rear end gets very very light and will tend to rotate. I was wondering if there was a way to keep this from happening. I was thinking of proportioning more rear brake bias.
Well any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Scott
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SM 30 Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was wondering if there was a way to keep this from happening. I was thinking of proportioning more rear brake bias.
Well any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
proportioning valve from an si, or maybe 90-93 integra, and Master cylinder/brake booster from 90-93 integra will help your brakes out.
I'm not experienced enough to venture into answering anything else though, but like david said, knowing your alignment settings would help people out more.
Well any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
proportioning valve from an si, or maybe 90-93 integra, and Master cylinder/brake booster from 90-93 integra will help your brakes out.
I'm not experienced enough to venture into answering anything else though, but like david said, knowing your alignment settings would help people out more.
first, get matched shocks front and rear. either tokico or koni, doesn't matter to me, but make them so they are both the same brand. eliminate any strange valving dissimilarities.
second, stiffen the suspension up. increase the spring rates by at least another 50% or more. this will reduce the amount your car dives and squats, keeping a much tighter control on dynamic toe change on your rear tires.
more rear brake bias will make the problem worse. a passenger will hurt your lap times, not help. if you went faster with a passenger, it was due to some psychological reason, not more weight on your right front tire.
nate
second, stiffen the suspension up. increase the spring rates by at least another 50% or more. this will reduce the amount your car dives and squats, keeping a much tighter control on dynamic toe change on your rear tires.
more rear brake bias will make the problem worse. a passenger will hurt your lap times, not help. if you went faster with a passenger, it was due to some psychological reason, not more weight on your right front tire.
nate
Toe was set to zero all around.. though the driver's side rear tire is maybe 1/8" toe'd out.. which is I think part of the problem as well.. if you drive down the road striaght and let go of the wheel.. you can feel the rear end push the car to the right.. Though since toe is unadjustable on my car any ideas on fixing this..
as for the brake setup.. I have ITR MC and 90-93 proportioning valve and ITR brake Booster.
as for the brake setup.. I have ITR MC and 90-93 proportioning valve and ITR brake Booster.
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Maybe I'm missing something but how can you adjust toe on the rear of an EF ? Well I guess I should also add that I have the 90-93 integra rear trailing arms in as well.. so that may have something to do with it.. but honestly.. I found nothing to adjust toe on the rear of the car.. if you can point me in the right direction to adjust this I'd be appreciative.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SM 30 Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found nothing to adjust toe on the rear of the car.. if you can point me in the right direction to adjust this I'd be appreciative.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's a small compensator arm at the end of the traling arm (towards the front of the car) that bolts to the frame.
Loosen the 14mm bolt that holds this arm to the frame, and adjust
#16 in this pic
There's a small compensator arm at the end of the traling arm (towards the front of the car) that bolts to the frame.
Loosen the 14mm bolt that holds this arm to the frame, and adjust
#16 in this pic
Check out http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com Chris Shenfield has posted his 2003 STS national champion setup.
Also I would recomend switching your springs from 450f/350r to 350f/450r.
I am running 400f/450r and the ST rear bar set full stiff and the car rotates great.
Also I would recomend switching your springs from 450f/350r to 350f/450r.
I am running 400f/450r and the ST rear bar set full stiff and the car rotates great.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SM 30 Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A common problem I have noticed is that when I brake hard going into a turn the rear end gets very very light and will tend to rotate. I was wondering if there was a way to keep this from happening. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, for starters, stop braking in the turn- if that's what you're saying you're doing. You want to get your braking done before the turn and then get back on the gas as you go through, and really haul *** on the throttle as you're going past the apex. If you think the back end is stepping out, you're not on the gas hard enough. Trail braking can induce oversteer, though I've never been one to trail brake.
Well, for starters, stop braking in the turn- if that's what you're saying you're doing. You want to get your braking done before the turn and then get back on the gas as you go through, and really haul *** on the throttle as you're going past the apex. If you think the back end is stepping out, you're not on the gas hard enough. Trail braking can induce oversteer, though I've never been one to trail brake.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autoxer for 5 years
Timetrialer for 2 events (so yeah I'm a noob to this part)</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, for starters, stop braking in the turn- if that's what you're saying you're doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt he doesn't know /break/turn/accelerate/ after after 5 years of autox
450 is too soft for a b16a.
With you setup you really should be plowing with the 0 toe, 350R , tockico blues and that teg bar. Your going to have to change those blues though if you go any stiffer I don't see them lasting too long on 500+
I can understand how you would go faster around long fast corners with a passenger with your setup as you would have less roll with 100+ pounds in the pass seat & you would have felt the car was easier to drive....get rid of the pass(politely) and stiffen the front and rear rates.
What kind of tires are you using...pressures?
Timetrialer for 2 events (so yeah I'm a noob to this part)</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, for starters, stop braking in the turn- if that's what you're saying you're doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt he doesn't know /break/turn/accelerate/ after after 5 years of autox
450 is too soft for a b16a.
With you setup you really should be plowing with the 0 toe, 350R , tockico blues and that teg bar. Your going to have to change those blues though if you go any stiffer I don't see them lasting too long on 500+
I can understand how you would go faster around long fast corners with a passenger with your setup as you would have less roll with 100+ pounds in the pass seat & you would have felt the car was easier to drive....get rid of the pass(politely) and stiffen the front and rear rates.
What kind of tires are you using...pressures?
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