Tyson

i have exactly as pictured. the junction box and display.

yeah for sure ill check continuities. i think i might even add diodes if im going to wire up to existing sensors. ive already blown a fuse at the accessory power fuse box tapping into the TPS before, with another setup.

Andrie Hartanto

I have a feeling you have a kart unit. If that is the case, you can't use the 4 input channels for other than temperature.

I might be wrong. Shoot me an email, and I'll get the details and check it with them.

JOE BD-0

It's for sure not the kart one....it says "car" on start up.....

Tyson

actually, we have two aux channels. a water temp sensor on channel 1, and VDO oil pressure on channel 2. only the VDO oil pressure gauge seems to read correctly. honestly, i havent figured out the GUI on the display and all the buttons. i figured out the buttons do different things when the engine is on or off tho.... i set the channels to Temp and Pressure respectively. but channel one just reads 178-ish, regardless of the state of the engine. oil pressure seems to go up to around 65ish psi, and down to 0 as i cut the engine. which is normal?

SPEAKING OF WHICH.... so i do get a RPM signal, but after 4000 RPM, the signal just gets muddy and wont read past 5000rpm. so basically the shift lights wont work. and the rpm data is useless. *SIGH* i hear this a common problem. im using a 20ga wire to extend it to the back of the cluster from basically the center console floor area. it is soldered nicely to the back of the cluster tach wire. other than just trying to just pass thru the firewall and solder closer to the coil in the distributor, is there anything else i can try to clean up the signal? im really getting frustrated with this... i have a feeling eventually we'll get an AEM ecu, and may ill be able to tap into that with a cleaner signal (hopefully), but I want to get this working for real, immediately....

Circuit Motorsports

I'm certain it's the car one as well by the description. It's just the prequel to the current XG Log. It has one less analog input and no ECU setup. I have the same one in my Van Diemen.

Also had tach issues. At least in my situation there was interference from some other wires that were in proximity ot the tach pickup. Also one situation I came across where the RPM would work fine until about 4-5000 RPM was that the connector at the box was a little loose. The signal was able to 'jump' across okay at the lower RPM but got too garbled at the higher RPM.

Circuit Motorsports

You could also try a filter to clean the signal up as well. I have had to install them on some cars as well.

http://www.aim-sportline.com/downloa...er_101_eng.pdf

Tyson

pm me the cost.

although i dont want to buy extra stuff unless its a last ditch.

Johnny Mac

Is that last ditch between turns 3 and 4 at Willow Springs?

Tyson

hater

btw, do you have that on vid? my memory is horrible.... i could have used that brake position sensor then!

Johnny Mac

Yeah, I have it on video. I will bring it Friday for video download.

migs

Are pressure, temperature and EGT sensors supposed to be plugged into certain channels? For some reason I am getting a reading of "-28" for my oil pressure. Is the sensor broken? Purchased it second hand and the instruction manual states that I should remotely install the sensor to increase life span.

How do I toggle on my Mychron3 Plus Auto to view the other sensors that are currently connected?

Circuit Motorsports

The only dedicated channels on the XG are the beacon, wheel speed and RPM. The rest are open to be used for whatever you want. You just have to tell the dash which sensor is in which location so it knows what the info it is being sent by the sensor means. It's all done thorugh the software when you connect to the dash with the laptop.

Tyson

btw, i soldered the tach wire closer to the distributor this weekend. no change.

it still reads fine til 5000 rpm, then it just drops off randomly. i need a cleaner signal. i thought it might be the power lines to the kill switch that were close by, but that doesnt seem to matter.

also, the wheel sensor i used was bad, somehow. it has the metal binder connector on it so it connects directly to the box, but the new wheel sensors just have the plastic binder connector. we had to use an extension to make it work. maybe something is wrong inside the metal connector, ill disassemble and check. i cant see how the sensor itself is bad.

Airbag Club

Sorry Tyson, I sent you a PM regarding the RPM issue you were having, before seeing your signature about PM's..

I was wondering if you resolved the RPM problem. I am having very similar problems with my mxl strada connected to stock wiring in my Del Sol. Lower RPM are smooth and normal, but once i get past 4k rpm, the rpm's jump sporadically all over the place. At first I thought it was my connection (stock wiring behind the cluster), so I then tapped the wires at the distributor, and still had the same problem.

Do you know if the mychron rpm filter will fix this problem?

Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.

Tyson

i should have updated the thread. but we ended up using the RPM signal cleaner from AIM.
same as the link you sent me. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5476

i took the same wire we tapped into the distributer, the blue one at the dizzy, and connected it to the blue wire of the aim filter. it turned out tho that the blue wire of the aim filter wasnt the right wire to use. but instead the white wire which is labelled as the coil input. so we used the rpm filter with the white wire to the dizzy's blue wire and it works just fine now.

it could have been all along that we should have used the white wire input of the mychron box itself (ours was already cut to a stub when i got it used) but im just glad it all works no and we finally have data. so try that first.

JOE BD-0

Bumpin this 'cause some guys need the info from some of the links in this thread......
Good Luck....