Dilbones

Hey guys,

I need some ideas as to what coilovers/springs/dampers/top hats/camber kits/caster kits I should be using with the RA1's on my 93 Civic Coupe (EJ2/"EG") or with any slicks for that matter.

I have a friend with a GS-R who is helping me slowly build the car to be Honda-Challenge-Esque (since I can't afford to jump right into w2w racing right now) and so far this is what he's recommended to me:

94-01 Integra Brakes with DTC 60 pads up front and regular pads in rear
Stainless lines, DOT 4 fluid
B16A2 motor with LSD trans
15x7 wheels with Toyo RA1's (series tire)

I was thinking of getting the Koni Yellows with GC's since it's pretty much a no-brainer in terms of bang-for-buck suspension setups and ease of install and wealth of information.

My original budget was around 1,000 but my friend told me that I would soon be out-driving the yellow/GC setup on those tires and with my experience level (two years autocross and a couple of track days).

If I have to spend around 2,000 I'm open to it, but I want to buy a quality monotube damper and spring combo this time-- none of that Tein crap.

I was thinking Bilstein, but all I can find for a reasonable price is the HD damper. I was thinking PENSKE/ANZE but the cheapest I can get a single adjustable for is about 3,000.

I am looking at single adjustability on rebound and that's it. I don't WANT, let alone need, two-way, three-way, four-way dampers with external reservoirs and etc, etc.

Any help, HT?

Thanks

jelcivic

From what I have seen on the HC2 cars (JRZ, PIC, Penske, JrI, Ohlins, Bilstein, etc). If you are looking to do HC in the future, look into the sponsors that NASA has. I am currently looking for the very same thing you are. I'm leaning towards MCS or PIC. Both are totally different but I feel like going with a higher quality set of coilovers that can be rebuilt/revalved and added on to is the way to go if you plan on sticking with track events for many many moons.

I have seen some used high end coilovers on the FS thread.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Searching would of brought back tons of threads telling you all you want to know.
Google using Honda-tech in the search.
Tried and true are the race valved koni yellows... nuff said there.
Toyo RR is HC series tire.
Read some more before you commit.. not everyone's set up will work with your driving style.
You have to figure your style out first.
With autox and a few track days id give myself more time bone stock before changing anything.

joel n

Just a comment for the Bilstein shocks. We currently have the HD in the rear and the Type R sport on the front. They do not work for us. We can not drive it into the corners like we could on worn out yonika coilovers. Even with the same rates and sway-bar. We tried different rates but nothing has helped. so now there is a set of Koni yellow race shocks sitting on my bench. Installing them tonight I hope. The track we run is older and they are improving it as they can $$$$ it. I think the bilsteins are just valved way to hard for the track. Causing the car just jump around alot. Its like we have a crazy amount of rear bump steer. So come oct 11 I can give some good feedback on how the Koni Yellow race shocks compare.

navin

iTrader: (1)

You may want to spring for the Koni 8041's (Race version) of the yellow's... they are shortened and revalved for higher spring rates. You can find some decent used deals on them.. like so: ITR Expo Forums: Koni Yellow Sport Shocks / Ground Control Coilovers

When you "outdrive" that setup then I'd say switch... unless you just have money to burn at the current moment.

Dilbones

So I'd like to say thank you all. I don't know why my email didn't tell me I had four replies to this thread so it's awesome coming in and reading all of this.

I'd also like to thank you all for putting up with my question even though there may be other threads that answer it. I spent about two years sorting out my RSX-- a.k.a. searching forums, driving, driving, driving, buying parts-- before I was able to set it up even close to what I liked and even then it needed more.

So this is a huge time saver and I thank you all for that.

I agree with what your saying and appreciate your input. A lot of guys are telling me my experience level isn't even enough to be setting my sites on HC, let alone setting my car up for it. (Even if I do want to set it up slowly).

As of now, I'm looking for a setup that will be streetable and suit my needs for the track. However, I do not want to go with crappy coilovers like I did with my Teins because I think it's time I made the switch to something more "mature" and I've always wanted to see what a properly valved coilover would feel like on a car of mine. I loved my friend's Koni Yellow GC setup.

That's an awesome deal you posted. I think I may spring for that. I think the ITR suspension needs different rear LCA's though and that may interfere with the GS-R RTA assembly I just bought .

Do you think Koni/GC's that are NOT revalved to race spec would serve my purposes?

I'm thinking of running a 15x7 tire with 225 wide zii star specs, rs3's, rivals, or re-71r's instead of going to slicks.

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

I believe I covered some of this on a Facebook page. But, reading some of this, I will add go with NT01, 205 or 225 on a 7. Use whatever suspension that you can fit in the budget, then get out and drive.

This is my first year racing HC, I had done LeMons stuff prior, but it doesn't really translate to NASA racing. It's wayyyyy faster than you'll expect, etc. So, seat time, seat time, seat time. I did the whole drive on the 7 inch wheel because I wanted to go HC down the road. I had never driven on a RR until comp school.

Dilbones

Just out of curiosity, why NT01's and not 200 TW street tires? I'm coming from a lot of autocross so I've always been told unless you're in a prepared class that a 200 TW tire or greater is what you need to use (regulations).

15x7, correct? What spring rates would you run on that tire if you had a choice?

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

I say NT01s because they're pretty close speed wise to the spec tire. They are slightly more forgiving. Nothing wrong with "street" tires, just giving input.

Springs, up to you, many different opinions, but I ran on 650/700 for the longest time.

15x7, yes.

Colin

iTrader: (1)

If you're just starting then the standard GC's will be just fine. And the good part is that you can run them now and then in a few years if you're still at it and need to upgrade you can simply have them revalved. So spend $500 on shocks now then $500 to rebuild later and you'll have the RACE valved Koni's. Compare that to buying an entry level setup now and then needing to spend $1k+ down the road for a more advanced setup. Or compare it to blowing all your $$ on a high level setup now. Of course if you find a great deal on some RACE valved Koni's there's no reason not to jump on them.

Edit: That link Navin posted... that's an amazing deal, I'd jump on that!

Dilbones

That's a good point. I almost wish the Bilstein HD's were comparable to the Koni Yellows because a revalve on those guys is so cheap. Bilstein is awesome. It's too bad their shock bodies are longer from what I've heard.

I'd need the ITR rear LCA's for that though...I really don't want to buy them -__-.

Colin

iTrader: (1)

They're not that expensive and with how cheap that Koni/GC setup is you should have it in the budget. Figure ~$650 shipped for that full setup, I can't imagine you'll find anything even comparable at that price, or even at nearly double that price.
JDM DC2 ITR Rear Lower Control Arms | Password JDM

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Run the Yellow OTS shocks for learning.
You can run up to 500 lb springs if memory serves me.
Start off with 200-500 rates... should keep you more balanced than a stock spring.
Experiment. slowly make changes... take notes and test test test.
Lots of seat time.

Colin

iTrader: (1)

Do you think there's any downside to starting with the RACE valving? I know people always suggest starting with street tires instead of slicks and not worrying about power adders or really any mods and focus on seat time. But I figured shocks wouldn't be as big of a deal that you could start with the RACE shocks (and probably lower spring rates) and it wouldn't be something where they were covering up for lack of seat time. I know I definitely started with a car that was over-prepared for my talent (as did many of us who started modding our street cars and got bit by the track bug) but assumed my RACE shocks weren't hindering my learning whereas some other mods likely were.

I just wonder because in this instance he could get that RACE setup for half what it'd cost to buy the OTS setup new.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Not really but budgets seem to be the big factor in people not using the race valved set ups.
Wives/ GF's hate guys spending all the money.
500 now plus some GC's and pay later to get them shortened and revalved makes the dive more palatable.

It sits better for noobs who don't have the idle cash to throw at a full race shock set up.
Tires... don't break your bank when there are other options.
Nobody is going to break track records with no experience... no sense in spending for first class when you are learning right?
If a set comes available on the cheap, and he can swing it... doood jump all over it.

Something I have always seen of outstanding drivers here on CA.
They can take a near bone stock car and chase down the most well prepared and HP'd cars.
Learn to drive the wheels off as close to stock... then move up.

Dilbones

Just picked these up from Asian-G. Paid close to 600 including shipping and paypal fees.

Mr.K

Thats Sweet! Come back and let us know how you like them!

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

Brian is a good dude, I've bought a few things from him.

Dilbones

Yeah, now that I'm back on the site (I only get weekly notifications and have to figure out how to get notifications for every reply on a subscribed thread) I can go give him a positive iTrader feeback

Yesterday I pressed out the compliance bushing and some bushings on one of the arms that connects the trailing arm to the chassis closer to the front.

I'm gonna be running some camber arms at the top of the trailing arm and I have to wait on some ITR LCA's in the meantime...

Anyone want some GS-R LCA's??? Hahah

Kingbuiltscca

Nothing but MCS coilovers. Fantastic set up. You can order them in single or double non remote style as well

Dilbones

ugh.

dude, that bay is bae.

I'm thinking of going with the hardrace hard rubber bushings all around. Less deflection and slop without the problems associated with poly or the cost associated with spherical.

Thoughts?

gramkrackers

I have friends who have run the Hardrace stuff and love it and others who said the rubber broke down in the bushing after a year or two of tracking.

I run their rear camber kit because I needed an adjustable arm that still retained a rubber bushing for class rules and after a year they still look good to me. However, in my front lower control arms, rear trailing arm, rear toe arms and upper control arm bushings I got brand new OE bushings from the dealer. I don't know the price difference between the two options but I know my money went to a quality/lasting product in the OE bushings and unless you are upgrading to spherical units the OE seems best to me.