216.226.142.95:27016

is this extended travel more beneficial in the front suspension than the rear?

ryan12321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this extended travel more beneficial in the front suspension than the rear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rear suspension has plenty of travel that you don't have to worryabout it. At least on FWD hondas.

Not sure about the new civics and RSX. Don't know much about the new suspensin design.

jsi

Sorry for hijacking the thread a little, but on topic at hand. Anyone know if the GC mounts would work with a normal spring, say an H&R Race? Or are they only designed to work with the 2.5" race springs?

ryan12321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry for hijacking the thread a little, but on topic at hand. Anyone know if the GC mounts would work with a normal spring, say an H&R Race? Or are they only designed to work with the 2.5" race springs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They say they are only designed for the 2.5" spring but I don't see why you couldn't use them with springs.

krshultz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this extended travel more beneficial in the front suspension than the rear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The front of the car is the big thing, as that's where steering acceleration and braking happen. The rear end is basically just along for the ride if the car is set up to be fast. With most track prepared Hondas, the rear might be low, but the springs are so stiff that they basically don't compress.

TeamSlowdotOrg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITACRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ground Control sells upper strut mounts that serves the same purpose. Also, quality of of them are top grade and at $75 dollars a set, it pretty hard to pass up.</TD></TR></TABLE>Word. My car is lowered quite a bit (right at 2" before, a little more with the stiffer springs) to get the alignment I want, and even with the 400lb/in springs on my old setup with the GC shock mounts I only ran out of travel (suspension travel, not bottomed shock) on extremely severe impacts like under hard braking, while turning into a big pothole or some such. On the track I still had about .5" of travel to spare.

If I didn't get the GC mounts, I would have been boned for sure as they give you ~.75" of extra room.

CRX Lee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Anyone know if the GC mounts would work with a normal spring, say an H&R Race? Or are they only designed to work with the 2.5" race springs?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I recently put a set on the front of my street CRX and have them on a nomal Vogtland lowering spring shaped like a stock Honda spring with no trouble. Don't know the ID on it but I'd guess it to be probably 2.75-3.0.

Please remember that when you do the installation with a mount like this, you will need to compress the spring that same amount farther when it is off the car. I haven't used a spring compressor on the front of a Honda in many years as I switch normally from race springs to street lowering springs that have limited if any preload at droop. Now with the top of the pin moved farther saway whn it is in the car, when the shock is off the car and the shock is fully extended, it is as if you are moving the upper spring perch actually closer to the lower spring perch. Thus iff the car, a shock pin that is moved up one inch from the stock location will actually need one extra inch of preload to install the spring.

I had not ever considered this before I did my first install of them and it threw me off my normal routine (like I had to find my spring compressors that I had not used in years). Ths also cuased me some issue when setting my ride height on teh front of the car as my traditional routine now had to have more preload and the proper tools to get it. Just a few things to remember when using this kind of system. It solves some issues but raises a few small ones too.

jsi

Thanks Lee, for a great response as usual.

I'll definetely give those a try on my EF. For $75 cant go wrong and not worth it to try to fabricate, imo at least...

Tyson

so basically if youre going to use these, get shorter springs...

CRX Lee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically if youre going to use these, get shorter springs...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, or at least have your spring compressors handy and be prepared to crank them an inch or so more than usual.

krshultz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, or at least have your spring compressors handy and be prepared to crank them an inch or so more than usual. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Which is not going to be a fun time if you're running incredibly stiff rates like so many of us are. Just something to consider.

I for my part have been well pleased with the Ground Control mounts. 75 bucks complete. Only complaint I had was the complete lack of installation instructions that they came with.

Be careful with them though. My newly revalved Konis adjuster barely impacted some of the webbing on the back side of the hood. Easily remedied with a hammer, just wanted folks to be aware of the potential of damaging your top-mounted adjusters.

Crosser

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Which is not going to be a fun time if you're running incredibly stiff rates like so many of us are. Just something to consider.

I for my part have been well pleased with the Ground Control mounts. 75 bucks complete. Only complaint I had was the complete lack of installation instructions that they came with.

Be careful with them though. My newly revalved Konis adjuster barely impacted some of the webbing on the back side of the hood. Easily remedied with a hammer, just wanted folks to be aware of the potential of damaging your top-mounted adjusters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Karl, I am about to install these on the CRX. I will make sure to do some test fitting befor I slam the hood .

Eric

Honda318dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan12321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just another idea too instead of altering the top hats. On some shocks you can cut the brake brackets off and lower the shock farther down into the lower fork giving you more travel.

Here is a picture of what the shock looks like installed normally. This is not my car but general picture of how the shock would be.


Here is a picture of how I have cut off the brake brackets and lowered it down into the fork more.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Be VERY careful doing this, and make sure to fully compress the suspension without the springs on to make sure that the axles will not bind with the now lowered shock at full travel, or you will get a bent axle/busted something really quickly on track if its not checked...

Chris Sawatsky

this removing of the brake bracket also seems like a bad idea to me, because it's putting pressure on the shock in a way that it was not designed to.

Tyson

lowering it in the fork is fine. theres no difference in force. you should put a metal spacer so you have more than the pinch bolt securing the position tho.

Evs-One

I did 1.5 up front and 2 inches rear. On my old shocks it was more beneficial, but now with Koni Yellows, they're just....there .

Front AGX's were on seting 3 before extensions, and 2 after, and after, they are still more responsive and stiffer.

Cost me 5 bucks and an hour...worth every penny

EK4civichatch

Would the top hats in any way interfere with the adjustment screw at the top of tokico illuminas?

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only complaint I had was the complete lack of installation instructions that they came with</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need instructions for this?

krshultz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You need instructions for this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. The order of installation of the washers and such was not immediately obvious to me. Remember, I'm not very good at this. The car broke lastt summer for chrissakes and I still haven't fixed it...

MightyMouseTech

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Sawatsky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a few pics...

installed:


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Minor pet peeve. You put your shock bushing washers on upside down, the cup is supposed to face up to allow the shock shaft to pivot slightly without binding.

Jaker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Minor pet peeve. You put your shock bushing washers on upside down, the cup is supposed to face up to allow the shock shaft to pivot slightly without binding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are ****, aren't you!

Crosser

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Minor pet peeve. You put your shock bushing washers on upside down, the cup is supposed to face up to allow the shock shaft to pivot slightly without binding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is funny, I knew something did not look quite right about that, but I coudl not put my finger on what it was.

MAYHEM

I love this is this legal in SM. I could use another 1in of travel in the front for sure.

The rule is not that clear. I have a email into howard duncan scca home office.

Kerry

Jaker

Since the top hat is bolted to the chassis, its legal. The suspension is totally free. You simply cannot alter the points at which the various suspension components attach the the frame/subframe/unibody.

ryan12321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since the top hat is bolted to the chassis, its legal. The suspension is totally free. You simply cannot alter the points at which the various suspension components attach the the frame/subframe/unibody.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats how I view it too. It is illegal in STS somehow. Not sure about SM. That why I got more shock travel how I posted above.