Ben_

Hey guys

got me a 95 dx sedan with 220k that i'm building for auto x STS class

putting together a build list and figured maybe someone on here can help chime in. already bought enkei rpf1 in 15x7 flavor and have bridgestone re7r tires and has poly suspensions bushings. heres my list


progress coilovers

hawk hp+ pads

dot3/4 brake fluid

si rear disk hub and caliper assy

si brake proportioning valve

manual steering rack from another dx

rear sway bar

seat and harness

maybe some engine mods



thats the list just bare bones to attempt to be competitive against the miatas

bigtimegambler

yep, seems like a good starting point. What about upgrading your brake booster and master cylinder? I also run progress coilovers. What rates do you have?

Ben_

i'm going to be building the car over the winter for next years season. I've only bought rims/tires and bushings so far. The rest is a to do list.

How do you like the coilovers? I've been thinking about just spending the money on koni/GC coilovers.


I've been thinking lately that not having adjustable struts is not very race car

bigtimegambler

The progress coilovers are amazing. We have confirmed in other threads that the progress shock is in fact shorter than the koni shock. This allows further lowering with proper shock travel and allows more aggressive camber which is a huge plus in autocross. There has been much talk about how adjustable struts aren't necessarily needed because manufacturers know how to set up their shock better than you do. Refer to this suspension forum sticky, https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br...ility-2967499/. Im running 550f/550r on my ef civic. A good balance of oversteer/understeer. Im planning on more road racing so this is good for higher speed corners, and longer transitions. In auto cross however i would strongly recommend a rear heavy set up. 450f/550r, 450f/650r, or 550f/650r.

Ben_

thats the exact post i was looking at when i decided the progress coilovers would be a good buy, but before hand everything was pointed towards koni/GC

The reality is that its budget build 200$ saved in suspension could be spent on that steering rack or brake pads

Ben_

was definitely specing out some 450/550 progress coils for like 580 shipped

bigtimegambler

I would recommend it, put the money saved into other aspects of the build. By going with progress you aren't really losing out on anything, and they have customizable rates like the Koni/GC's. Added, they have the shorter shock body.

fickster

What do you think of the Progress with the rear heavy setup on the streets?

bigtimegambler

I think its not a bad idea at all. This is under the assumption you are an experienced driver. If you go hard on the streets with noob driving skills, you'll get lift off oversteer and you won't know how to correct it.

fickster

Are you driving on the streets with this setup? I was more curious about ride quality.

bigtimegambler

Yeah, I drive on the streets with the #550 f & r. The ride quality is fine. Everyone has a different idea of ride quality though. If the highways you drive on are filled with tar the ride will be choppy. Large bumps send a shock into the cabin. Over large bumps in calgary it is enough to buck me up in my seat and the seat belt will lock. But its a compromise. I like to drive on the street feeling like I'm driving a race car. Its not for everyone though.

fickster

This is exactly what I was hoping you'd say. I drive around feeling the same way. I don't mind a rougher ride. The roads in Vegas are 50/50. I'm pretty good now at avoiding the crappy steets.

I'm hoping to pick up the Progress I'm a few weeks and was going to compromise and go with the 350/350s. I'm glad I found this I may go with the 550s but may go 450 all around just for a little compromise. Thanks for the info.

bigtimegambler

Let us know what you decide on. The valving on the shock body is the same, so you could always order stiffer springs if you order too soft. I would suggest staying away from the 350/350 though. They don't seem like much of an upgrade over oem considering oem rates are so soft. So roughly they are only 2 times stiffer up front and 5 times stiffer on the rear. Keep in mind 5 times stiffer on the rear still isn't much stiffer considering the stock rear rate is literally next to nothing.