Bit for notching mild steel for cage
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Bit for notching mild steel for cage
What is the bit called for notching the ends of the tubular steel for welding a cage together.. I want to say Chamfer but all i can find is wood bits..
A little help?
A little help?
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#4
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Re: (Outsane)
Don't cheap out on the holesaws. Get a genuine Milwaukee or Lenox.
Buy the size that matches the tubing (outside) diameter you are using. You did buy a 'tubing notcher', right? If not, it will be a major PITA.
Buy the size that matches the tubing (outside) diameter you are using. You did buy a 'tubing notcher', right? If not, it will be a major PITA.
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Re: (civicrr)
we have a 7 foot drill press here with all kinds of wheels and attachements and special vises for pipe .. we tested it with hole saws and it worked ok but i have watched proffesionals with a special bit that looks like a tap and they push the pipe into it as it spins and it notches the pipe, but i guess a hole saw will have to do
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Re: (ViZ)
Sounds like you are talking about a metal lathe to me. While that would certainly make it easier for fish mouthing tubing past the range of the commercial notchers, the holesaw works pretty well.
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#8
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Re: (ViZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ViZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we have a 7 foot drill press here with all kinds of wheels and attachements and special vises for pipe .. we tested it with hole saws and it worked ok but i have watched proffesionals with a special bit that looks like a tap and they push the pipe into it as it spins and it notches the pipe, but i guess a hole saw will have to do</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe what you're describing looks something like this:
I think it's referred to as an end mill, or an end mill cutter. The bits are several hundred dollars by themselves. Here's the first link I found: http://www.vansantent.com/tube...r.htm
I believe what you're describing looks something like this:
I think it's referred to as an end mill, or an end mill cutter. The bits are several hundred dollars by themselves. Here's the first link I found: http://www.vansantent.com/tube...r.htm
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Re: (Angry Joe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Angry Joe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bah! A bench grinder and a zippy stripper are all you need if you're a real man </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck if you are TIG welding.
Good luck if you are TIG welding.
#15
Re: (civicrr)
We tried about 7 different brands of hole saws, and Milwaukee are the only ones that worked for us. And work. And work. I think we've done 3 cages on the current saw. It doesn't even look like it has any teeth left yet it still keeps cutting. And yes, we have a tube notcher. Not as nice as that end mill, but it works, and it was 1/5 the price.
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did you try dewalt hole saws? i have a crapload of them here at our shop
and the comment about the side load sounds about right, i dont want to destroy my drill press
and the comment about the side load sounds about right, i dont want to destroy my drill press
#18
Re: (MightyMouseTech)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good luck if you are TIG welding. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless I'm in a hurry the gaps are plenty tight
Good luck if you are TIG welding. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless I'm in a hurry the gaps are plenty tight
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Re: (Angry Joe)
Unless, you have only 1 sized stock tubing then you'll need various bits for different connections (ie big bar to small bar).
I second using a bench grinder. Periodically check the fitment and you'll have zero gap once you get some experience.
I second using a bench grinder. Periodically check the fitment and you'll have zero gap once you get some experience.
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