AEM Filter Replacement
I have an AEM CAI on my ITA car.
Last year I just used the filter that came with it but. after ARRC, it now has about a pound of famous Road Atlanta red clay clogging it up!
Are these things washable? Is there something better? K&N perhaps?
Last year I just used the filter that came with it but. after ARRC, it now has about a pound of famous Road Atlanta red clay clogging it up!
Are these things washable? Is there something better? K&N perhaps?
I believe the AEM filter is a K&N unit. If not, the principle is the same, cotton filter soaked in oil as the filtering medium.
I'd try washing it with a K&N "Filtercharger" cleaning kit first, which are fully compatible with the AEM.
I'd try washing it with a K&N "Filtercharger" cleaning kit first, which are fully compatible with the AEM.
AEMs do come with K&N filters...just get the K&N filter recharger kit and clean it up...you may want to wash it down with water before hand (I think that's part of the directions anyway) to get as much clay off as possible.
I have an AEM CAI on my ITA car.
Last year I just used the filter that came with it but. after ARRC, it now has about a pound of famous Road Atlanta red clay clogging it up!
Are these things washable? Is there something better? K&N perhaps?
Last year I just used the filter that came with it but. after ARRC, it now has about a pound of famous Road Atlanta red clay clogging it up!
Are these things washable? Is there something better? K&N perhaps?
)Use the K&N filter care kit regardless, as long as it's a cotton based filter.
~Rick Shank
The older ones (like a year or more) definitely have K&N filters on the end. I'm pretty sure the AEM intakes now sport a different brand of filter on the end (they're such cost savers
)
)
Does anyone know the model if the K&N filter that they used to use?
It *might* be stamped inside the plastic end of the cone. If not, somebody give me the ID/OD plus shank length, cone length, and conical width at both ends, and I can cross-reference it in their catalog.
Also, as for cleaning: tap the filter against something at 90 degree intervals until you go all the way around, to dislodge the clay in the gauze. You may also need to use a soft-bristle paintbrush to get this done. Then spray the cleaner on until it drips out, let it sit for 10-15min, then hose it out (inside to outside preferrably, to not lodge more stuff in the cotton). Then dry it, and oil it until that smelly red goop drips out. Then re-install and feel the additional 25+ hp (as advertised).

From what I understand, the spray cleaner works better on the filter when it's completely dry but all big chunks have been removed... hosing out the loose debris first (rather than tapping it against something and/or using a paintbrush) will supposedly hurt the process rather than helping it, unless you completely dry the filter out before using the cleaner. BTW, this was told to me by a K&N rep at the SEMA show, so take it for what it's worth.

Jon
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I'd like to ad do not use compressed air to blow stuff out.
Shake and break off all the clay you can, then spray with the K&N spray. It's a solvent that should disolve the rest of the sediment and then rinse with water, like Joh said always from the inside out. It can take several hours to dry. You could probably speed that up with a heat gun or hair dryer, but if you've got the time might as well juts let it air dry. Re-oil until red and you're good to go.
Shake and break off all the clay you can, then spray with the K&N spray. It's a solvent that should disolve the rest of the sediment and then rinse with water, like Joh said always from the inside out. It can take several hours to dry. You could probably speed that up with a heat gun or hair dryer, but if you've got the time might as well juts let it air dry. Re-oil until red and you're good to go.
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