step by step polish??
i just got done doing my first paint job on my integra.. i did a lot of reseach so painting stage is complete.. im about to wet sand with 2000 grit to remove some orange peel.. and need some help polishing.. so whats the step by step way to polish and what polish compound is best.. lemme know.. thanks in advance
meguaris, g3 and the likes all do varying grades of cutting compounds. if its not that bad a peel try 2500 grit, keep it wet and as soon as the paper clots bin it and start a new bit, only move in straight lines. (take your time, expect to spend a full day just sanding!)
what is the weather like where you are? some polishes will NOT work very well if its cold, menzzerna po85rd for instance, must go on 20c+ (but the results are stunning! expensive but what you pay for is what you get)
g3 is pretty good and will work in most temperature ranges.
get a good selection of DECENT foam pads to, megs do a good range, g3/farcela are also great, note that different combo's of pad+polish grades will give different cuts, a soft megs (yellow i think) with a harsh compound will cut fairly fast, whilst a light polish on a cutting pad will also cut the same way.(start with a soft pad and a light cutting/final finish polish)
imo always start on the softest compound on the softest pad and give it a whirl, make sure the compound does not dry out (it will clot together and block the pad), if using megs get their quick detailer and mist the pad with it first lightly, g3 you just dump the pad in water and squeeze it all out so its moist and cut away.
most of megs and g3 stuff are diminishing abrasives, they cut hard to start then smooth out, you know when thats done as only the lube oils in them will remain and it will be transparent, work in small squares/areas, about 2x2 and no larger, do it somewhere warm but in the shade if poss.
the only big risk your going to have is burn through, a rotarty even lubed WILL cause friction, if you hold it in one place to long it will burn through your clear, be very careful on corners/lips or anywhere that sticks out with a thin edge , the rotary will make mincemeat out of edges very quickly. if there is no peel on places like dont wet sand them
if it were me get some g3, dont worry if you put the odd buffer trail in the finish on a compound with more cut, get a fine polish and use that afterwards to take the buffer trail out. buffer trails are caused by heat, normally a result of not holding the pad/mop head against the body flat.
just press gently and dont force the pad against the body hard, if you have a car body panel to practice on first give it a whirl just to get the hang of it, if the pads not flat it will run away in your hand. try and get a variable speed unit that has a range between 700-4000 rpm (the slower it turns the slower it cuts but the less heat it generates in the panel)
check www.detailingworld.com for guides on polishing with a rotary, its basically the same thing as car detailing with one to remove swirls/light scratches etc. just dont wax the car afterwards until the paint has fully cured. (if not oven baked dont even wax it for a few months)
what is the weather like where you are? some polishes will NOT work very well if its cold, menzzerna po85rd for instance, must go on 20c+ (but the results are stunning! expensive but what you pay for is what you get)
g3 is pretty good and will work in most temperature ranges.
get a good selection of DECENT foam pads to, megs do a good range, g3/farcela are also great, note that different combo's of pad+polish grades will give different cuts, a soft megs (yellow i think) with a harsh compound will cut fairly fast, whilst a light polish on a cutting pad will also cut the same way.(start with a soft pad and a light cutting/final finish polish)
imo always start on the softest compound on the softest pad and give it a whirl, make sure the compound does not dry out (it will clot together and block the pad), if using megs get their quick detailer and mist the pad with it first lightly, g3 you just dump the pad in water and squeeze it all out so its moist and cut away.
most of megs and g3 stuff are diminishing abrasives, they cut hard to start then smooth out, you know when thats done as only the lube oils in them will remain and it will be transparent, work in small squares/areas, about 2x2 and no larger, do it somewhere warm but in the shade if poss.
the only big risk your going to have is burn through, a rotarty even lubed WILL cause friction, if you hold it in one place to long it will burn through your clear, be very careful on corners/lips or anywhere that sticks out with a thin edge , the rotary will make mincemeat out of edges very quickly. if there is no peel on places like dont wet sand them
if it were me get some g3, dont worry if you put the odd buffer trail in the finish on a compound with more cut, get a fine polish and use that afterwards to take the buffer trail out. buffer trails are caused by heat, normally a result of not holding the pad/mop head against the body flat.
just press gently and dont force the pad against the body hard, if you have a car body panel to practice on first give it a whirl just to get the hang of it, if the pads not flat it will run away in your hand. try and get a variable speed unit that has a range between 700-4000 rpm (the slower it turns the slower it cuts but the less heat it generates in the panel)
check www.detailingworld.com for guides on polishing with a rotary, its basically the same thing as car detailing with one to remove swirls/light scratches etc. just dont wax the car afterwards until the paint has fully cured. (if not oven baked dont even wax it for a few months)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rjmq06
Acura RSX DC5 & Honda Civic EP3
7
Jan 25, 2010 07:17 PM




