Problem with clear yellowing
I'm touching up my engine bay a little bit. I sprayed (with a can) some white touch up paint. Then I went over it with some high temp. clear. It looked great for a few days, then it began to yellow a bit.
Is this due to the type of clear I used? Or maybe I laid the coats on a little too thick? Or what?
Are there any spray can clears that are better quality that won't yellow?
Here's the paint I used:

And here's the section of my engine bay that I painted:

You can see that the engine bay no longer matches the outside of the fender. It did match pretty well before it yellowed.
Is this due to the type of clear I used? Or maybe I laid the coats on a little too thick? Or what?
Are there any spray can clears that are better quality that won't yellow?
Here's the paint I used:

And here's the section of my engine bay that I painted:

You can see that the engine bay no longer matches the outside of the fender. It did match pretty well before it yellowed.
Most cheap clears have a yellow tint to it. The more expensive brands like House of Kolors is crystal clear, but its not cheap like i stated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nihkon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you get House of Kolors clear in a spray can?</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOPE!!!!!!!!!!
NOPE!!!!!!!!!!
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Lol.
So what is it that causes the yellowing? It definitely didn't look like that when I first sprayed it. It took a few days to develop into the yellow tint it has now.
So what is it that causes the yellowing? It definitely didn't look like that when I first sprayed it. It took a few days to develop into the yellow tint it has now.
I think its just that clear that yellows. The reg. clear that they sell will work
I have noticed the engine enamel clear turns yellow when its dry, I tried it on my headlights once
I have noticed the engine enamel clear turns yellow when its dry, I tried it on my headlights once
Thanks!
I'd be lazy and ask you for info and a link to the 2k clear that you mentioned. . .but I should probably do some research on paints/guns anyway if I'm going to get into "real" painting. haha
I'd be lazy and ask you for info and a link to the 2k clear that you mentioned. . .but I should probably do some research on paints/guns anyway if I'm going to get into "real" painting. haha
2k = 2 component, any paint material that combines 2 different parts to make 1 catalyzed / activated part is 2k. Primer, base, clear can all be considered 2k if mixed w/ an activator or hardener.
you can go to a local shop that makes auto paint and they can put anything in a can. If you buy HOK clear you can take it them and they can put it in a can for a small fee. Also I'm still trying to figure out why you are using high temp paint on an engine bay? that is for engine blocks and heads not engine bays..
It may be turning yellow because its heavy in those areas..Some clears have a yellowish tint(its a UV protectant)in them to help with weather.But u cant see it when sprayed
powerflow: thanks for the info buddy!
Ep1dem1c: Oh yeah, I've heard about getting spray cans filled. I forgot all about that. Maybe I'll look into that to see how much it costs. I used the engine paint with the thought that it would hold up to the heat of the engine bay a little better than regular clear. [shrugs]
Bigblockhatch: Yeah that may be. I did spray a bunch of coats, so it's probably pretty thick. And it is most yellow in the area in front of the wiper motor hole where I got a little trigger happy and it pooled up slightly.
Ep1dem1c: Oh yeah, I've heard about getting spray cans filled. I forgot all about that. Maybe I'll look into that to see how much it costs. I used the engine paint with the thought that it would hold up to the heat of the engine bay a little better than regular clear. [shrugs]
Bigblockhatch: Yeah that may be. I did spray a bunch of coats, so it's probably pretty thick. And it is most yellow in the area in front of the wiper motor hole where I got a little trigger happy and it pooled up slightly.
good luck... it doesnt look as bad as you think it does it actually looks pretty good for an at home job
oh and where did you get your bolts/washers from the green ones? ive been looking for those for a while now and cant find em... i heard pep boys? let me know because i want to get some red ones thanks
oh and where did you get your bolts/washers from the green ones? ive been looking for those for a while now and cant find em... i heard pep boys? let me know because i want to get some red ones thanks
Thanks man! Yeah in the right light you can't even see the yellowing. But it's enough to bug me. lol!
As for the washers. . .I got them from a local "ma and pa" type fastener shop here in SoCal. I searched around online for a while as well and couldn't find them either.
As for the washers. . .I got them from a local "ma and pa" type fastener shop here in SoCal. I searched around online for a while as well and couldn't find them either.
I don't think there was a brand name on the washers. They just call them "beauty rings."
As for the bolts, again, no brand name. I used chrome button head allen bolts. They are 6mm. I cant' recall exactly the length I got. I think they were 20? 21? Something like that. I like the button head bolts because they're a little more flush than the regular allen head bolts. And they aren't played out as much as the torx bolts. lol
Just to warn ya though, that stuff isn't cheap. Between the bolts, a/n washers, and beauty rings (yeah, each bolt is a 3-piece setup). . .that stuff cost around $70.
As for the bolts, again, no brand name. I used chrome button head allen bolts. They are 6mm. I cant' recall exactly the length I got. I think they were 20? 21? Something like that. I like the button head bolts because they're a little more flush than the regular allen head bolts. And they aren't played out as much as the torx bolts. lol
Just to warn ya though, that stuff isn't cheap. Between the bolts, a/n washers, and beauty rings (yeah, each bolt is a 3-piece setup). . .that stuff cost around $70.
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