crxzcracer

Okay so to start i have never done anything with body work or paint. So any help would be great. I have been searching for a bit and now i am starting to take on this project.
I have already pulled the engine and removed and thing unwanted in the bay this includes doing a wire tuck.
So now on the to do list: (Pls. comment on any thing you think i should do)
Sand down the engine bay(to bare metal were boundo will go)
Clean with wax and grease remover
Boundo areas then sand flush
Clean all areas again
Primer the engine bay
Paint the bay with Rust-olum gloss white(rattle-can) I am going for a glossy finish so i will be wet sanding with 1000 grit after 2 coats, then spray again 2 coats then wet sand with 1500 grit then 2 more coats and wet sand with 1500 grit then 2000 grit.
then after the should i apply a clear coat or just polish with the paint?
The main reason i am posting this is for help and suggestion and then i will turn it in to a diy.
Thanks

RoadRage212

A clean shave is a lot of work just to cover it with low quality paints. FYI it wouldnt be that much more to use the proper paint supplies. You are doing all the labor yourself which is the most expensive part.

crxzcracer

For the price of buying all that i would need to give it a oem paint job myself i could have someone paint it and i am kinda strapped for cash to to the engine build i am doing.


Modified by crxzcracer at 5:59 AM 5/6/2008

DDEVIANT1

Don't skimp out on paint, if it puts you one payckeck behind on building the motor it will be worth it, trust me. Also on the areas you want to bondo, if it is a seam that you are taking the seamsealer out of and then want to bondo it, don't. You have to weld the seam up first to keep it from cracking down the road, if you don't it will crack and look terrible. Also take not of all of the extra holes in the bay and weld them up too...it will really clean it up for you.

crxzcracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't skimp out on paint, if it puts you one payckeck behind on building the motor it will be worth it, trust me. Also on the areas you want to bondo, if it is a seam that you are taking the seamsealer out of and then want to bondo it, don't. You have to weld the seam up first to keep it from cracking down the road, if you don't it will crack and look terrible. Also take not of all of the extra holes in the bay and weld them up too...it will really clean it up for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks! i didn't even think about the seams flexing! that would have sucked when it cracked

DDEVIANT1

I have made taht mistake a couple times, and learned my lesson because of it...hahaha hope it turns out nie, post pics when its all done.

SneezinCD5

It shouldn't be much more than 200 to shoot the bay, atleast thats what I charge.

crxzcracer

Yeah a guy out here said he would shoot it for 280. If i bought the paint and did all the prep work. But then i an basicly paying 280 for what? him to spary it? that seems like alot to pay someone to just spary it. Plus i live on a navy base so i would have to get a tow truck to take it there and back.

crxzcracer

So i have a friend that is going to be doing the welding for me. but he doesn't get off work til 6 and i get off at 2 so i want to start putting down some bondo it the places he doesn't need to weld and then when he gets off he can start welding ****. would that be okay to do? how far should i stay away from where he is welding?

SneezinCD5

Where are you putting filler? I would only use a good quality filler as well. I would only use the filler for a final wipe. I would use fiberstrand to actually cover holes and whatever else. The filler is fine for covering the spotwelds and whatever welding your friend does.

DDEVIANT1

I would recomend evercoat fillers..they seam to work really wel with no bleedthru.

And yeah 280 just to spray the paint is a joke, its about 2 hours work, if you have it 100 percent prepped, of course if he has to prime it and re sand it down then 280 is a steal.

crxzcracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SneezinCD5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where are you putting filler? I would only use a good quality filler as well. I would only use the filler for a final wipe. I would use fiber-strand to actually cover holes and whatever else. The filler is fine for covering the spot-welds and whatever welding your friend does.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will be putting the filler over all the spot welds and odd curves then after all the seams are welded i will do a final wipe over ever thing to make it all smooth. What size holes could i cover with fiber-strand i don't think i would cover any thing bigger than a 1/2 inch with that. (can you explain more on that?)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would recomend evercoat fillers..they seam to work really wel with no bleedthru.

And yeah 280 just to spray the paint is a joke, its about 2 hours work, if you have it 100 percent prepped, of course if he has to prime it and re sand it down then 280 is a steal.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes i am using evercoat.

Ill post up so picture of the work so far tonight

crxzcracer

This is what i got done on my lunch break



May be i should just clear coat that! Blig bling
P.s. the only reason the brake lines are still there is because i will have to tow the car somewhere to get it painted so i am leaving them until i find out where and how.