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Old 07-03-2007, 12:16 PM
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So, when the polish starts to "break down", does that mean it becomes less liquid and more solid/paste like? I'm using my PC now, and I start to freak out when the polish starts to smudge on the clear.

Is it safe to run the PC over this area?
Old 07-03-2007, 01:32 PM
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Default Re: (nholmes)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, when the polish starts to "break down", does that mean it becomes less liquid and more solid/paste like? I'm using my PC now, and I start to freak out when the polish starts to smudge on the clear.

Is it safe to run the PC over this area?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what you are describing is it gunking up which is most likely due to use of too much product. when it "breaks down", it is reaching the point where it starts to correct the paint. a very small amound of polish usually goes a long way.
Old 07-04-2007, 10:23 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what you are describing is it gunking up which is most likely due to use of too much product. when it "breaks down", it is reaching the point where it starts to correct the paint. a very small amound of polish usually goes a long way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, I was just worried that I wasn't using enough or the friction caused by the product starting to gunk up was going to damage the clear.

So, how do I know when I should move on from the polish to the glaze?

Old 07-05-2007, 12:05 PM
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amazing thread, i just bought the 3 meguiars pads, a pc7424, meguiars clay kit, and #83/#80/#21 - doing my friends car this weekend, ill post pics when i can.
Old 07-05-2007, 01:53 PM
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Default Re: (fventura03)

Awesome...that'll get you started off real nice. Detailing is addicting though, it seems like no matter how much supplies you have you just want to buy more.
Old 07-05-2007, 01:56 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8tunerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome...that'll get you started off real nice. Detailing is addicting though, it seems like no matter how much supplies you have you just want to buy more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, tell me about it. i want to buy a rotary and practice on that, i'm having a hard time getting some water spots off my paint.
Old 07-05-2007, 02:32 PM
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Default Re: (nholmes)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So, how do I know when I should move on from the polish to the glaze?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you feel the polish has corrected the paint enough, move to glaze.
Old 07-05-2007, 09:55 PM
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you feel the polish has corrected the paint enough, move to glaze. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Free of marring or how glossy the paint looks?
Old 07-06-2007, 09:36 AM
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Default Re: (nholmes)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Free of marring or how glossy the paint looks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it should be free of marring and most swirls. todays compounds and pads dont marr the paint too much. I recently buffed out my truck with optimum hyper compound and a foamed wool pad, and since i was so worn out from doing it i just slapped sealant on it and it looks pretty good

one of these days ill do it the right way and polish it too. I just wanted to make it look nicer once i bought it, it was loaded with swirls.
Old 01-11-2008, 02:21 PM
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

i need to read this thread
Old 03-23-2008, 01:52 PM
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subscribed 'cause i'm **** about my black paint
Old 03-23-2008, 06:11 PM
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Default Re: (kaj)

i got one for you guys:

every day my car is covered in dust. how do you get rid of it without scratching the paint? i stay away from california dusters. i tried detailer spray/microfiber and i've tried spray wax/mirco.

ideas?
Old 03-24-2008, 05:29 PM
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Default Re: (kaj)

I usually use a california duster.. if that isn't your cup of tea, try some bodyshine or magic mist made by automagic or some quick detail spray. I know you've mentioned all of this but there really isn't much other than washing it.
Old 03-24-2008, 11:12 PM
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Default Re: (GuNnErGoD)

this is my latest polish job.. not really a full detail by any means.. just wanted to get used to my Flex polisher before i do some customers cars pretty soon..

now i dont use meguiars stuff other than the quick detailer.. im a big fan of menzerna polishes, lake country pads..

for this one i used my karcher 1800, deionized water, foamed with adams car wash, adams clay.. polished with menzerna intensive polish w/ orange pad.. topped off with swissvax concorso


left side uncorrected, right side corrected


here you can see what i was dealing with all over


ahh, much better


more corrected, glassy paint




took it outside to look for holograms.. found none












after the cleaner fluid, i applied the concorso


after the concorso, all glossy.











and the odometer

Old 03-25-2008, 11:18 AM
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Default Re: (MTK Kommander)

that came out nice
Old 03-25-2008, 02:32 PM
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

holy, nice work. How long did that take you?
Old 03-25-2008, 05:17 PM
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

Hi E-Rok,

I read your comment about audi paint...I used Klasse All in One and Klasse Glaze on my Black Audi TT (i used to own a Teal EG..so Honda love forever..)..but I don't think I applied it correctly..I also used (not knowingly) cleaner wax after the glaze..oops..this was in the fall 2007 and I haven't detailed it since..

now that it's getting nice out, I wanna plan to try the Klasse again (correctly)..

I'm assuming audi clear is really hard..and i have swirls i can notice in the paint close up..will the PC 7424 be useful in my situation?..i don't think i want to learn how to detail with a rotary on my TT..i'd rather then just pay someone to fix my paint..

i need some advice!..thanks

Old 03-25-2008, 08:02 PM
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that came out nice </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hardEH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy, nice work. How long did that take you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i started at roughly 2:30.. i think i finished up a little after 6.. ford paint is very easy to work with.
Old 03-26-2008, 04:09 AM
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Default RIP DeWalt

What happened to me today I wouldn't wish on anyone. But then again, I would. (Confusing but bear with me) I'm a pro detailer and I bought a brand new DeWalt rotary buffer when I started at the company I'm with two years ago. I thought this thing would be the last buffer I'd ever buy. I got to work today and started a big wetsand job and when I picked up my buffer, it slipped out of my hands and landed vertically on the handle, splitting the case in half. I didn't think it was possible but it even bent the handle into an awkward angle that I coulnd't work with even if I somehow fastened it back together. Luckily the Matco truck was there and I could buy another one. DAMMIT.

But he quit selling DeWalt buffers. All he had was a Makita. EXPLETIVE. I went outside and cursed on the phone to my wife about what had happened and explained that I was going to have to buy this other buffer but not only the buffer...OH NO. I'd have to buy everything else that goes with it like the 'complimentary' bag and crappy pads that I'll never use. Anyway to make a long story short (yeah, right) I love my new buffer. Its lighter, smoother and sounds like a ceiling fan compared to my old DeWalt. The steel case that contains the motor stays a lot cooler, too. This is the first morning I've been able to drive home without listening to my ears ring all the way home.

Break your DeWalt. Buy a Makita. It'll be the best thing you ever did.

Old 11-22-2015, 03:51 PM
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Default Re: Paint and Body Detailing Thread (SjCiViCHB)

Originally Posted by LastDetail
OK so now that you have yourself a top notch finish free of swirls, micromarring and other generally lame stuff how do you keep it looking great? Your only have a finite amount of paint and every time you buff on it you are actually removing some clear coat. So in reality you can only buff your car completely down I would say 8-10 times before you are going to thin the clear out so much that it causes problems.

There are lots of things that cause swirl marks and small scratches. One of the things that causes the most amount of swirls, (if not the thing that causes the most period), is improper washing techniques.

First and foremost NEVER EVER take your car through the tunnel wash system available at most gas stations. EVER! There is a reason it only costs five bucks. The weight of the pads just rubs the dirt into your finish, scratching it. And that is the best case scenario where there isn't already dirt on the things from the enormous amount of filthy cars to have gone through it already that day. Do yourself and your paint a favor and stay away from the "swirl-o-matic" as it known in the detailing industry.
Here is a good example of what going through the tunnel wash system does to your paint.


To do a proper wash you will need:
2 good quality wash mitts
2 Buckets (I like 5 Gallon variety)
Some dedicated car wash soap (leave the dawn in the kitchen)
A good water supply (garden hose sucka)
Some shade.

First fill up 1 of the buckets with water and soap and wash your wheels and tires.
Dump out that first bucket and refill it with clean water and mix in some soap.
DO NOT USE THE SAME WASH MITT ON YOUR WHEELS THAT YOU USE ON YOUR PAINT! Brake dust is acidic and will ruin your paint.
Take your second bucket and fill it with just clean water, NO SOAP.
Hose down the car front to back.
Now take your wash mitt and dunk it in the clean water, wring it out. This will help to get rid of the particles of dirt and whatnot that are in your mitt. Now dunk it in the sudsy water and start washing the car, from the highest point to the lowest point. Each time you finish a panel dunk the mitt in the clean water and get it as clean as possible before switching to the soapy water, this will prevent the dirt that you just washed off the car from getting into the soapy water and then back onto your paint where it might scratch it. There is no need to press hard when washing the car, the weight of your hand should be more than enough. Don't let soap dry on the paint. Now rinse the whole car car off.

Stage 2 Drying the car.
I like to use Microfiber Waffle Weave towels to dry my car. DO NOT USE BATH TOWELS. Now take your towel and BLOT the car dry, just lay the towel down and soak up the water and repeat. Try not to wipe the car as this contributes to swirling the paint. General rule of thumb is if it will scratch a CD it will scratch your paint. Got it?

If you use the two bucket method and the blotting method for drying you will take the washing process to the point where you are doing the least amount of damage to your paint and should maintain your finish for quite a long time.
I have often thought the regular use of the automatic "soft cloth" car wash and clean car is better than dirty car and occasional hand wash. I would much rather have the car detailed once a year to remove whatever swirl marks the machine caused. Living here in the northeast with harsh winters and caked on road salt, the automatic car washes are a necessary evil.(Especially the undercarriage spray).
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