<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before I take the PC to my car... how do I know when I should compound or polish? Should I just polish first?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends on the condition of the paint. do you have a pic of the paint in sunlight? what products and pads are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on the condition of the paint. do you have a pic of the paint in sunlight? what products and pads are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hehe, sup E-Rok.

Compound - Meguiars Fine-Cut Cleaner
Polish - Meguiars Swirl Free Polish
Glaze - Meguiars Machine Glaze
Seal - Meguiars Synthetic Sealant
Wax - Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Wax

Here are the only pics I have at the moment:

 

hmm its hard to tell how the swirls are from those pics, what pads do you have?

I would start with the swirl free polish and a light cutting pad (orange if Lake Country, i forgot meguiars color)

speed at 5-6 with the PC, should take care of it.

 

I have all three of the Meguiars pads:

 

e-rok, i got a 7424 for xmas and I want to put it to use. Is this package a good deal? http://www.autogeek.net/popoprkit1.html

Then all I would need is backing plate, wax, and sealant? Any other suggestions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have all three of the Meguiars pads:

[img]http://www.meguiars.com/estore/products/product_W7000.jpg[img][img]http://www.meguiars.com/estore/products/product_W1000L.jpg[img][img]http://www.meguiars.com/estore/products/product_W9000.jpg[img]
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try the swirl free polish and the yellow pad 1st, if you need better results try the red pad. remember it will take a while for the polish to break down when using the DA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">e-rok, i got a 7424 for xmas and I want to put it to use. Is this package a good deal? http://www.autogeek.net/popoprkit1.html

Then all I would need is backing plate, wax, and sealant? Any other suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

poorboys is good stuff

I like this one:

http://autogeek.net/optimum-kit.html

 

That poorboys kit is pretty good. It would pefectly suit OEM honda paint. I havent tried Nattys Blue yet but I hear its one of the best looking carnubas. The Optimum kit is great as well. I use optimum compound and poli-seal on almost every detail I do. The thing I personally dont like about OC is the fact that it takes forever to work, which is the thing most people desire from it. I do however like that it doesnt dust. I was up until 1:30 lastnight poishing my GFs Cavalier because Ive been busy with other **** lately. Its a 2000 white cavalier and it was covered in random isolated REALLY deep scratches. All she use to do before we started dating was take it through automatic car washes, and it definately shows. I had tried polishing it on short notice with Optimum compound and a LC orange 5.5 in. pad and it did nothing for the swirls or scratches. The combo I ended up going with was SSR3 with a LC yellow cutting bad. What suprised me the most is the fact that there was only two panels that I had to follow up with another polish due to hazing and that was only because when I cleaned the pad there was a little bit of moisture left in it. The newer GM paints are hard as a rock and when coupled with deep scractches everywhere its not fun.


Modified by EJ8tunerman at 5:06 PM 6/7/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try the swirl free polish and the yellow pad 1st, if you need better results try the red pad. remember it will take a while for the polish to break down when using the DA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I really liked Poorboys when I started out detailing, it has a great learning curve and is so user friendly. You will get better results as a beginner using the poorboys line than you would using the Optimum line IMHO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastDetail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really liked Poorboys when I started out detailing, it has a great learning curve and is so user friendly. You will get better results as a beginner using the poorboys line than you would using the Optimum line IMHO. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed

 

e-rok, which pad kit should i get?
http://www.autogeek.net/bf100.html
or
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspad-kit.html

 

For my business, it's Meguiar's all the way. Well, I do have some secret non-Meguiars stuff that I love



And LastDetail, I think we met at one of Richard of SCD's open garage saturdays...

I was there with my GT...



-Brad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">e-rok, which pad kit should i get?
http://www.autogeek.net/bf100.html
or
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspad-kit.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

2nd one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brad. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For my business, it's Meguiar's all the way. Well, I do have some secret non-Meguiars stuff that I love

-Brad</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, and I thought I had alot of Meguiars stuff

 

Hellyea I remember meeting you at SCD. It's hard to forget a mustang that looks that sweet.

 

So is the PC 7424 a good starting ground for a beginner who is looking to switch over to machine detailing?

 

yes.....check out autopia.org you can learn alot of stuff there!

 

Absolutely, especially with the softness of Honda paint (im assuming you have a honda) the PC is an awesome tool to use. Even though I am proficient with the rotary polisher I find myself using the PC on most hondas.
The best thing about the PC is that it is almost impossible to harm your paint with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes.....check out autopia.org you can learn alot of stuff there!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastDetail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Absolutely, especially with the softness of Honda paint (im assuming you have a honda) the PC is an awesome tool to use. Even though I am proficient with the rotary polisher I find myself using the PC on most hondas.
The best thing about the PC is that it is almost impossible to harm your paint with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for the info guys... I will have to check out that site and do some reasearch. And yes, I do have a civic whose paint is in dire need of a good complete wax job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...civic whose paint is in dire need of a good complete wax job </TD></TR></TABLE>

now don't get wax confused with polish.

Polish gets rid of your imperfections...wax protects.

 

polish, seal, then wax.

 

Do any of these cutting compounds/rubbing compounds work well enough to remove orange peel? Or does that always ultimately need to be done with sandpaper?

Also do these cutting/rubbing compounds work with old single stage paint with no clear coat?

 

SS paint is much easier to work on when compared to a modern multi-stage clear coated finish. And usually you can use a less abrasive product on a single stage paint to get the results you want.

However, orange peel is removed by wet sanding the fresh paint, then polishing out the sanding marks with the correct pad and product.

 

You want to be careful when sanding to remove orange peel as you are sanding stock clear coat. If you have aftermarket paint then disregard this message.
However when sanding a stock clear coat to remove orange peel you are removing a substantial amount of the clear coat. You may sand it down to where it is smooth however the clear will be so thin afterwards that your clear coat will almost certainly fail within 6 months to a year. If you are EXTREMELY prudent in your upkeep, i.e. sealant, wax etc etc. then you might get an additional year out of it.
However this is limited SOLELY to my experience. Other people may have a different view/experiences. I am by no means the final word on this, simply what I have seen personally.