Looks like the cut on the glaze is higher than the polish, is that normal?

I would expect the glaze to have almost no cut compared to the polish, since the glaze goes on after.

???




Thanks for the info E-Rok, appreciate it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like the cut on the glaze is higher than the polish, is that normal?

I would expect the glaze to have almost no cut compared to the polish, since the glaze goes on after.

???


Thanks for the info E-Rok, appreciate it! </TD></TR></TABLE>

alot of people actually like #80. it is a glaze, but not a "pure" glaze. it will indeed take out minor minor swirls. good for something that doesnt quite need polishing. It also goes well as a followup after say dual action cleaner polish #83

it is kinda like polish and glaze in one, as #83 is like polish and compound in one.

I actually might pick some up just to have it, as alot of people have said good things about it.

wanna split a gallon?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of people actually like #80. it is a glaze, but not a "pure" glaze. it will indeed take out minor minor swirls. good for something that doesnt quite need polishing. It also goes well as a followup after say dual action cleaner polish #83

it is kinda like polish and glaze in one, as #83 is like polish and compound in one.

I actually might pick some up just to have it, as alot of people have said good things about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Nice, so then...


Dab chip with touch-up paint.
Wetsand - 3M Wetsanding Paper 1500 grit
Wetsand - 3M Wetsanding Paper 2000 grit (or Meguiars 3000 unigrit)
Compound - Meguiars Fine-Cut Cleaner (or Optimum Hyper Compound) - To remove watermarks and light scratches
Polish - Meguiars Swirl Free Polish - To bring out the shine
Glaze - Meguiars Machine Glaze - To add glaze
Seal - Meguiars Synthetic Sealant - To well... seal up the shine and give depth
Wax - Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Wax - To protect and add another layer of shine and depth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> wanna split a gallon? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I wasn't in San Diego, Ca. haha




EDIT: Also, I found a kick *** deal on a Porter-Cable 7424 polisher from Coastal Tool:



http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi...0c480

Comes with the polisher, 6" hook & loop contour backing pad and 6" counterweight for use in 6" polishing

$119




Modified by nholmes at 8:27 PM 5/31/2007

 

looks pretty good. remember the speed glaze has more cut than swirl free polish, so you MIGHT want to go with a pure glaze if you are gonna use the swirl free polish. maybe get a bottle of machine glaze as well.

that price looks decent. Remember you are gonna have to get pads for it. I get most my stuff from http://www.autogeek.net

be a baller and get this

http://www.autogeek.net/porter....html

either way, be sure to pick up one of each: 1 yellow, 1 orange, 1 white, 1 grey/black, 1 blue.

I still need some small orange pads for my PC.....

 

lol wtf

Where do you go over each of the pads and how much they cut?

Do I need all of those???


EDIT: What combinations of pads go with what compounds/polish/glaze/etc?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol wtf

Where do you go over each of the pads and how much they cut?

Do I need all of those???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I suggest having atleast one of each color.

Wool (I like foamed wool for cars) excellent for compounding, foamed wool pads leave minimal swirls or micromarring. I do not recommend use on a PC.

Yellow Foam - the msot agressive cutting foam pad. use for compounding on heavily oxidixed or swirled paint

Orange Foam - a lighter cutting pad. works great with polish or compound, good for light swirls

White Foam - Polishing pad with very little cut. Good for final polishing.

Grey/Black Foam - Finishing pad. Good for Glaze. Can also be used for wax, sealants as well

Blue Finessing Foam - ultra soft pad is great for apply sealants and wax.

you dont need 6 of each, I just have a detailing business so I decided to stock up. It wasnt cheap

here is the thing. the product is only going to be as aggressive as the pad. you can use compound on the yellow pad, or put it on orange if the swirls arent quite as bad. same with the polish, you can put it on white for final polishing after compounding, or put it on orange for light swirl removal.

 

Can I get away with like three pads?

Compound, Polish/Glaze and Sealant/Wax?


Sick tips!

E-Rok you're the man!


Modified by nholmes at 8:47 PM 5/31/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I get away with like three pads?

Compound, Polish/Glaze and Sealant/Wax?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahh I should mention that the colors I listed are for Lake Country pads and are most common, while others (like meguiars) are different color codes, so always check before purchasing.

you can get away with 3 pads, but you might as well spend the extra $30 and have each one.

 

I Have lake country pads now, and while they do work ok, im fixing to step up to the edge system. Autogeek sales the Edge system with a finishing pad, polishing pad, light cutting pad, medium cutting pad, and heavy cutting pad as well as the adapter needed for $100. I'm torn right now between 96-98 SIR headlights or the edge system and some LCAs. HAHA!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8tunerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I Have lake country pads now, and while they do work ok, im fixing to step up to the edge system. Autogeek sales the Edge system with a finishing pad, polishing pad, light cutting pad, medium cutting pad, and heavy cutting pad as well as the adapter needed for $100. I'm torn right now between 96-98 SIR headlights or the edge system and some LCAs. HAHA!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard good things about Edge pads

 

Hey sorry I have been all MIA on this thread. Planning a wedding is some tiring ****. First of all thanks EJ8 for the props, its nice to know someone is paying attention. E-rok seems to be laying down some serious detailing knowledge on your guys so pay attention.
I'll go ahead and throw my methods for polishing in here as well.
First thing you gotta remember is the more aggressive pad/polish combo you use, the more clear coat you are going to remove in that particular polishing step. So you really don't want to go more aggressive than you need in order to maintain the longevity of your clearcoat. Usually what I do is try the least aggressive pad/polish combo I have. For me this is Optimum Polish with a white Lake Country pad. Sometimes this is all you need. If however OP and polishing pad is not working then I step up the polish. For simplicity sake I will just use the Optimum line for my example. So the next step would be Optimum Compound with a polishing pad, and if THAT doesn't work then I will go to Hyper Compound with a polishing pad. Then if THAT doesn't work I will change over to a more aggressive pad and start the whole product line all over again.
Now this is not to say I go through each and every step like this each time I detail a car, through my own experience detailing cars usually if one combo doesn't work I know in my head that this other combo won't work and will step it up. With honda paint I have found that Optimum Compund with an Orange Lake Country pad works wonders on heavy swirls and random scratches at 1200-1500 rpm on the Makita, but hazes a bit. To clear up the haziness I generally follow up with Optimum Polish on a Meguiars Yellow (lite cut) pad on the PC with speeds ranging from 5-6.

I know a lot of people are way into the Edge pads, I myself have never had occasion to try them, I heard a couple horror stories a couple years back about the pad breaking down and the spindle lock mechanism (metal) going right into the paint. Supposedly this has all been fixed, however I am still a bit wary. But hey, thats just me.

I'll go ahead and bring up a new topic for this thread.
Anyone here use the Zaino product line? For some colors this stuff is the ****. I put about 4 layers of Z2 pro (zfx'd) onto my fiances car (metallic dark grey with flake) about 6 months ago and weekly washings followed up by a Z8 wipedown and the thing still looks KILLER. The longevity of this sealent system is just unbeleivable.
Anyone else use this stuff? Thoughts?

 

I havent used Zaino products but I hear good things, I hear their estate glaze is really good

and yes, Honda paint is very soft so you most likely wont need to use Hyper Compound and a yellow pad, now if you are working on an Audi..................

However the good thing about german paint, is the clear is so hard it is very resistiant to swirls, Honda paint on the other hand is rediculous.

 

hows it going? just got my itr repainted cw of course, and i am using the washing precautions listed, however, as far as drying, im using a chamois(spelling) not the synthetic, but real thing. anyway, i basically lay it flat and run it across the panel, and then will run over it once more for the water it didnt pick up. is this soft enough to not hurt the clear? it seems to be fine so far but i always like others opinions

 

What I've been reading is that you should blot the car dry and not drag or swirl the chamois (or whatever you use)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hows it going? just got my itr repainted cw of course, and i am using the washing precautions listed, however, as far as drying, im using a chamois(spelling) not the synthetic, but real thing. anyway, i basically lay it flat and run it across the panel, and then will run over it once more for the water it didnt pick up. is this soft enough to not hurt the clear? it seems to be fine so far but i always like others opinions</TD></TR></TABLE>

THe best method is to blot it dry with a waffle weave microfiber, dragging it can cause swirls is there is any dirt left behind.

however, it probably wont show up on CW paint.

 

This is what I use to dry, anyone have any opinions on this product?



I've been using one of these for a few years now, seems to work pretty good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what I use to dry, anyone have any opinions on this product?

[img]http://www.sailcharbonneau.com/images/Absorber.jpg[img]

I've been using one of these for a few years now, seems to work pretty good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use the absorber as well, I have no complaints

 

As far as drying goes I go with the blotting method. I try my hardest to never rub the paint with anything. The absorbers I have tended to steer away from simply beause they have no real fiber texture and if a piece of dirt or something gets onto it you are almost garaunteed to touch the paint with it. I tend to go with the big ol' microfiber waffle weave towels for drying.
Someone earlier brought up the technique of flooding the car when you are finished washing it in order to leave the least amount of water on the paint. I use this technique often, on a well maintained car (waxed regularly) this will leave little water and makes drying a snap.

Oh and E-Rok I think you are referring to Zymol products. Massive price tags associated with those, I was actually talking about Zaino, just google Zaino and it will give you their website with product descriptions and all that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastDetail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as drying goes I go with the blotting method. I try my hardest to never rub the paint with anything. The absorbers I have tended to steer away from simply beause they have no real fiber texture and if a piece of dirt or something gets onto it you are almost garaunteed to touch the paint with it. I tend to go with the big ol' microfiber waffle weave towels for drying.
Someone earlier brought up the technique of flooding the car when you are finished washing it in order to leave the least amount of water on the paint. I use this technique often, on a well maintained car (waxed regularly) this will leave little water and makes drying a snap.

Oh and E-Rok I think you are referring to Zymol products. Massive price tags associated with those, I was actually talking about Zaino, just google Zaino and it will give you their website with product descriptions and all that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea I did mix them up.

I just stil to my Optimum products and Meguiars Detailer line for cleaners.

I MIGHT try Menzerna but its expensive y0

 

If you do try the Menzerna line the FPII finishing polish is the absolute ****!
If you are looking to try another line of products I know a lot of people get really good results by mixing Hi-Temp Extreme Cut (HTEC) polish with Optimum polish. Supposedly this gives really long work times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have #3.

and yes, that is the polish I have. I am however about to buy some Optimum Polish and see how I like it. I just picked up their Hyper Compound and Compound and its great.

my product line as of now:

Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow Wax, Megs Machine Glaze, Megs Synthetic Sealant, Megs Swirl Free Polish, Megs Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Megs Power Compound Cleaner, Optimum Compound, Optimum Hyper Compound</TD></TR></TABLE>

i use number 7 it has rich nourishing oils for your paint, leaves no white residue behind and doesn not build-up on paint, allows paint to breathe.

 

My new fav forum on HT! Good thread guys, now I can get my detailing fix on HT when I'm not on Autopia or other sites lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My new fav forum on HT! Good thread guys, now I can get my detailing fix on HT when I'm not on Autopia or other sites lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here!

 

i use #7 also.. doesnt turn white at all

 

Before I take the PC to my car... how do I know when I should compound or polish? Should I just polish first?