Quick question.

I'm deleting my side trim, the holes where the clamps use to be are about 1" by .5" and whenever I try bondoing the hole the bondo seeps right through.

I tried mixing extra hardener, but it didn't help at all.

Is there a certain kind of bondo I can use? and buy locally? (autozone, advanced auto, walmart, napa, etc.)

Thanks in advance.

 

You have to weld the holes shut first....Bondo has zero structural integrity by itself, it is merely a leveling compound and it is designed to be put on in less than1/8" applications

 

someone told me to try a bondo with fiberglass??

 

That person told you the wrong way. The only real way is to weld them shut.

 

the guy who told me is in school for body work......... i highly doubt he's wrong.

and for the record, since the hole is that big, you can buy those "chicken wire" things that are sticky on one side and put them over the hole then bondo it.

don't be so sure of yourself.

 

AHHHhahahaha!!! tell your buddy to hit the books!! he better learn something quick before he fails his classes

you're clearly an idiot. posting with a valid question, then responding with a smartass remark about how your buddy knows all.. and everyone who responded is wrong, maybe you should keep quiet... get your answer, and move along. you asked for help, people gave it, and you called ... how does that make sense??

the proper way to shave body holes is to weld them shut and do the mudwork on top after the surface is prepped. the only other acceptable way is to use panel bonding adhesive and bond a piece of metal from behind the panel, then do the work from the front as usual, since the original sheet metal is so thin, it's like any other filler job. panel bonding adhesive can actually be stronger than the typical sheet metal weld when used properly.

but... since you're convinced your tech-school friend is the go-to source for all things body related, you probably won't believe me either. sucks because i've been doing it professionally for years. so good luck with your sticky chicken wire and your backyard hackjob then

 

proper is to weld it.
if you dont have access to one put tape behind the hole. but itll pop off in a yr or so

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaeljenkins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the guy who told me is in school for body work......... i highly doubt he's wrong.

and for the record, since the hole is that big, you can buy those "chicken wire" things that are sticky on one side and put them over the hole then bondo it.

don't be so sure of yourself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am TOTALLY SURE OF MYSELF on this one... and just for reference, a lot of people go to school and learn nothing. Just because he went to school doesnt mean he knows it.

Oh and I do custom paint and bodywork and have for the last 6 or so years....Perhaps I know a thing or two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaeljenkins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the guy who told me is in school for body work......... i highly doubt he's wrong.

and for the record, since the hole is that big, you can buy those "chicken wire" things that are sticky on one side and put them over the hole then bondo it.

don't be so sure of yourself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, just because your friend is in school studying body work techniques, doesn't mean he knows all of them yet. And, it definitely doesn't insure him being 100% correct.

As already stated, the best way to handle holes is with a welder, plain and simple. Plastic filler is designed to smooth out imperfections in the surface of metal, not close gaps. It's supposed to be used in moderate applications, to make the paint apply more evenly for a smoother finish, and that is all.

Using chicken wire, fiberglass, or any other sort of flexible material to try and close the gap will only cause larger problems down the road, when they flex and crack the paint applied to them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That person told you the wrong way. The only real way is to weld them shut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehehe

 

if you have been doing paint and body work for six years now then why are you on here asking how to bondo something? sounds like you need to go back to the books!!

 

I am nopt asking how to do bondo work...I am the one who has been doing it for 6 years

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blue00Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have been doing paint and body work for six years now then why are you on here asking how to bondo something? sounds like you need to go back to the books!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Learn how to read before you post.